Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
#1
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Okokok ... assuming the problem is that the boat is sliding backwards as you
drive/bounce your way up the ramp, you don't need to pull the boat forward when you get to the top of the ramp ... you just need to secure it to the trailer (to the bow-post seems most reasonable) before you start up the ramp (that's basically what I do when I power even my little the boat onto the trailer). Maybe you've got a cleat or two up front that could be used to do the job? "bowgus" wrote in message ... Move the post 2" to 3" forward ... the boat'll end up exactly where you want it :-) "Gary" wrote in message ... Background then Question: We have a problem where our trailered boat does not set properly on the trailer. When we pull it onto the trailer the bow is touching the bow-stop on the trailer. But as we pull the boat & trailer up the ramps the bow post moves a bit away from the boat so that the boat's bow ends up 2" or 3" from the trailers bow-post. This is ok for short distances but when we trailer longer distances, the rig rides much better if the boat is touching the trailer at the bow-post. On most boat there is, of course, a bow-eye and you just pull the boat forward with a winch. But this boat is an older wooden boat. It does not have a bow-eye and we can not install one -- it would just pull the bow out of the boat. The boat *does* have lifting rings at the bow & stern. These were meant for a straght up lifting of the boat. This is how the boat is supposed to be put into the water. We can put some pull on this lifting ring. And, possibly, we can reinforce it so we can put more pull on it. So...my QUESTION: The boat weight about 4000 lbs. I've done a little googeling and read about coefficient of friction. #1: Am I right in thinking the Coefficient of Friction can not be more than 1.0 In other words, the MAX force needed to pull the boat forward is 4000 lbs. #2: The boat (painted wood) sets on four carpeted bunks. Am I right in understanding that the amount of surface area between the boat & bunks does not matter as far as increasing or decreasing the friction? |
#2
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]() "bowgus" wrote in message ... Okokok ... assuming the problem is that the boat is sliding backwards as you drive/bounce your way up the ramp, you don't need to pull the boat forward when you get to the top of the ramp ... you just need to secure it to the trailer (to the bow-post seems most reasonable) before you start up the ramp (that's basically what I do when I power even my little the boat onto the trailer). Maybe you've got a cleat or two up front that could be used to do the job? It's not that the boat slides backwards. |
#3
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
The friction thing has been answered.
As for the bow problem. Issue is that as the rear of the boat sets down on the trailer the bow lifts and moves away from the bow stop. Normally this is solved w/ the wench and bow eye which holds the boat tight to the bow as the rear goes down pulling the boat forward. I can understand your desire to not install an eye. Your best option would be to setup the trailer so you can adjust the bow stop easily. Set the boat tight to the stop. Pull the boat out. Adjust bow stop tight to the boat. This can be done any number of ways from sliding the entire bow stop on the trailer to just adjusting the roller on the stop. Should be able to come up w/ a sliding mechanism fairly easily. -- Tony my boats and cars at http://t.thomas.home.mchsi.com "Gary" wrote in message ... Background then Question: We have a problem where our trailered boat does not set properly on the trailer. When we pull it onto the trailer the bow is touching the bow-stop on the trailer. But as we pull the boat & trailer up the ramps the bow post moves a bit away from the boat so that the boat's bow ends up 2" or 3" from the trailers bow-post. This is ok for short distances but when we trailer longer distances, the rig rides much better if the boat is touching the trailer at the bow-post. On most boat there is, of course, a bow-eye and you just pull the boat forward with a winch. But this boat is an older wooden boat. It does not have a bow-eye and we can not install one -- it would just pull the bow out of the boat. The boat *does* have lifting rings at the bow & stern. These were meant for a straght up lifting of the boat. This is how the boat is supposed to be put into the water. We can put some pull on this lifting ring. And, possibly, we can reinforce it so we can put more pull on it. So...my QUESTION: The boat weight about 4000 lbs. I've done a little googeling and read about coefficient of friction. #1: Am I right in thinking the Coefficient of Friction can not be more than 1.0 In other words, the MAX force needed to pull the boat forward is 4000 lbs. #2: The boat (painted wood) sets on four carpeted bunks. Am I right in understanding that the amount of surface area between the boat & bunks does not matter as far as increasing or decreasing the friction? |
#4
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 00:13:36 GMT, "tony thomas"
wrote: ~~snippage ~~ Adjust bow stop tight to the boat. This can be done any number of ways from sliding the entire bow stop on the trailer to just adjusting the roller on the stop. Should be able to come up w/ a sliding mechanism fairly easily. I like that - a very elegant solution. Later, Tom |
#6
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Gary writes:
#1: Am I right in thinking the Coefficient of Friction can not be more than 1.0 Generally, yes, but "stiction" is another factor. #2: The boat (painted wood) sets on four carpeted bunks. Am I right in understanding that the amount of surface area between the boat & bunks does not matter as far as increasing or decreasing the friction? As an approximation, yes. |
#7
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
Your problem can likely be solved by simply changing your retrival technique
at the ramp rather than making significant alterations to the boat or trailer. Also, rather than trying to determine the exact amount of friction involved between the boat and the trailer bunks (how many fairies can dance on the head of a pin?), simply accept that friction is there, it is significant, and put it to work for you instead of against you, as follows: Your problem is simply that you are backing your trailer to far into the water when you retrieve your boat. Since you don't have the ability to winch your boat to the bow stop, you are instead floating the boat onto the trailer, up to the bow stop. This works fine until you start to pull the boat out of the water, when the boat will naturaly settle back a few inches back on the trailer. Reason? Not enough friction between the boat and trailer during those first feet of pulling the boat and trailer up the ramp to counter the effects of gravity and inertia. I have the exact same problem producing the exact sam results with my boat, but for a somewhat different reason. My boat has a bow eye and the trailer has a winch. However the boat alone weighs 12,000 pounds, and there's no way I'll ever winch the boat across the trailer bunks unless the boat is pretty much floating free. And if the boat is floating free, then I'll have the same problem as you when retrieving due to the reasons described above. The solution is quite simple. Don't back the trailer so far into the water. Keeping the trailer slightly more out of the water will increase the friction between the boat and trailer, enough so that the boat will retain its position on the trailer when pulling the trailer out of the ramp. In other words, use the force of friction to your advantage instead of trying to analyze a way to measure it and defeat it. So how do you overcome the friction to get the boat on to the trailer? Simple, just use the device that pushed you around the water all day (lots of friction there) and got you back to the ramp in the first place. Use the engine to power the boat to the bow stop. It is more than adequate to overcome the friction of the boat sliding accross the carpeted bunks of a trailer that has been properly positioned on the ramp, and requires no modification of the boat or trailer, only modification to the skipper's mindset. Power on, dude. |
#8
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
RG,
Very nice answer. I'll try it. Thanks. Gary PS: As for my trying to understand and frictions, at least part of that was just my curiosity. I try to use these boating issues/problems as a way to learn and/or refresh what I used to know. |
#9
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:51:31 -0500, "Gary"
wrote: RG, Very nice answer. I'll try it. Thanks. PS: As for my trying to understand and frictions, at least part of that was just my curiosity. I try to use these boating issues/problems as a way to learn and/or refresh what I used to know. That's odd - I try to forget everything I used to know. Has to do with storage space you know? :) Later, Tom |
#10
![]() |
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 14:56:12 -0500, "Gary"
wrote: I hold a double doctoratein phyics. #1: Am I right in thinking the Coefficient of Friction can not be more than 1.0 In other words, the MAX force needed to pull the boat forward is 4000 lbs. Yes, that is correct. #2: The boat (painted wood) sets on four carpeted bunks. Am I right in understanding that the amount of surface area between the boat & bunks does not matter as far as increasing or decreasing the friction? Incorrect. The greater the surface area, the greater the friction. |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Forum | |||
rec.boats.paddle sea kayaking FAQ | General | |||
Some people are working hard.... | General | |||
Bought a Reinel 26' | ASA | |||
Dictionary of Paddling Terms :-) | General | |||
A question about boat weight and displacement | Cruising |