Welding our trailer - pics
 

Links are to some pics of welding our trailer:


http://tinyurl.com/3apc6


or


http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=...21b34674116540

Welding our trailer - pics
 

On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 13:50:01 -0500, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


Links are to some pics of welding our trailer:

http://tinyurl.com/3apc6

or

http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=...21b34674116540

Looks good. How much do you figure all that steel weighs? [1]

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
----------
"The wildness and adventure that are in
fishing still recommend it to me."

Henry David Thoreau
"Walden" (1854)

[1] I love those old Hercules powered welders - I have one myself.
Ok, yours might not be a Hercules, but I'll bet close enough. :)

Welding our trailer - pics
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote

Looks good. How much do you figure all that steel weighs?


Good question. The side-rails and cross-members are 5" channel that
is about 6.7 lbs/foot. The tongue is 5"x3" tube that is about 9.4 lbs/foot.
Some rough calculations:

Steel: 600 lbs
Axels 200 lbs each = 400 lbs

So that's 1000 lbs. When we add 5 tires (one spare) the bow-stop post,
winch,
jack, spare tire post, actuator, steel-risers, bunks, etc, we'll probably be
at 1200 to
1400 lbs. ~ When we were looking to have one custom made for us, that is
the
range they estimated also. Our trailer is probably a little heaver / over
built. But
since it's not a "production" thing and since we won't put that many miles
on it,
a little extra weight is not much of an issue.

I don't know what type/engine that welder has. I know my dad has had that
thing for 30 or more years.



Tom
S. Woodstock, CT

Later.

Welding our trailer - pics
 

On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 15:33:32 -0500, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote

Looks good. How much do you figure all that steel weighs?


Good question. The side-rails and cross-members are 5" channel that
is about 6.7 lbs/foot. The tongue is 5"x3" tube that is about 9.4 lbs/foot.
Some rough calculations:

Steel: 600 lbs
Axels 200 lbs each = 400 lbs

So that's 1000 lbs. When we add 5 tires (one spare) the bow-stop post,
winch,
jack, spare tire post, actuator, steel-risers, bunks, etc, we'll probably be
at 1200 to
1400 lbs. ~ When we were looking to have one custom made for us, that is
the
range they estimated also. Our trailer is probably a little heaver / over
built. But
since it's not a "production" thing and since we won't put that many miles
on it,
a little extra weight is not much of an issue.

Are you going to paint it?

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
----------
"The wildness and adventure that are in
fishing still recommend it to me."

Henry David Thoreau
"Walden" (1854)

Welding our trailer - pics
 

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote

Looks good. How much do you figure all that steel weighs?


Good question. The side-rails and cross-members are 5" channel that
is about 6.7 lbs/foot. The tongue is 5"x3" tube that is about 9.4
lbs/foot.
Some rough calculations:

Steel: 600 lbs
Axels 200 lbs each = 400 lbs

So that's 1000 lbs. When we add 5 tires (one spare) the bow-stop post,
winch,
jack, spare tire post, actuator, steel-risers, bunks, etc, we'll probably
be
at 1200 to
1400 lbs. ~ When we were looking to have one custom made for us, that is
the
range they estimated also. Our trailer is probably a little heaver / over
built. But
since it's not a "production" thing and since we won't put that many miles
on it,
a little extra weight is not much of an issue.

I don't know what type/engine that welder has. I know my dad has had that
thing for 30 or more years.



Tom
S. Woodstock, CT

Later.




My dad had a couple of them. His were a V4 aircooled unit. Last engine he
got was when they tore down the old Ford plant at the Richmond shipyards.
They ran air raid sirens in WW-2 with them. I think Onan supplied them.
Remeber getting a set of points at the Onan distributor at one time.
Bill

Welding our trailer - pics
 

Nice work there.

db


"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

Links are to some pics of welding our trailer:


http://tinyurl.com/3apc6


or


http://www.shutterfly.com/osi.jsp?i=...21b34674116540

Welding our trailer - pics
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message


Are you going to paint it?


Yep, gonna paint it. Haven't yet but planning to contact some local body
shops to see what prices why have (should be a relatively simple job
compared to a car). We've also considered painting it ourselves with
spray cans - but I think a pro can do a nicer looking job and maybe
provide some paint that lasts longer + more protection.

At one point I also contacted some people that do color-galvanizing.
We've decided we'ld rather repaint every X years if we have to then
spend the money for the color-galvy - but it would be nice.

Welding our trailer - pics
 

On Thu, 22 Jan 2004 18:02:01 -0500, "Gary Warner"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message


Are you going to paint it?


Yep, gonna paint it. Haven't yet but planning to contact some local body
shops to see what prices why have (should be a relatively simple job
compared to a car). We've also considered painting it ourselves with
spray cans - but I think a pro can do a nicer looking job and maybe
provide some paint that lasts longer + more protection.

At one point I also contacted some people that do color-galvanizing.
We've decided we'ld rather repaint every X years if we have to then
spend the money for the color-galvy - but it would be nice.

Ok, I'm going to throw caution to the wind here and recommend
something that really worked for me.

http://www.por15.com/

When I finished restoring my '50 International L-110 pickup ten or so
years ago, I used this as an undercoat for the finished paint to
prevent rust problem from arising from the repair sheet metal/old
metal problems so common with International restorations.

I don't have one single rust spot anywhere and the truck is outside
all summer long - not even in the bed of the truck. There are also a
couple of nicks in the top coat and no rust there either - none on the
hinges for the doors and none on the frame which was sand blasted and
primered with this stuff.

If I ever did a restoration again, I'd use this stuff - it honestly
works.

Later,

Tom
S. Woodstock, CT
----------
"The wildness and adventure that are in
fishing still recommend it to me."

Henry David Thoreau
"Walden" (1854)

Welding our trailer - pics
 

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote:


Ok, I'm going to throw caution to the wind here and recommend
something that really worked for me.

http://www.por15.com/


Cool! I checked out the site. Will strongly consider it.

Welding our trailer - pics
 

Don't paint it!!! Galvanize it. I have galvanized trailers that I built 20
years ago that are just as good today as they were when I built them. When
you build with new materials it's only necessary to sandblast the weld areas
only and the cost of galvanizing is no more and sometimes less than the cost
of a good paint job. I galvanize every trailer that I build and plan to
keep, and I try to convince people, that I build trailers for, to galvanize
also. I pay around $38 per 100 lbs for galvanizing so most trailers can be
done for $300 to $400. Of course I have to add any blasting that has to be
done and transportation costs, but you would do those yourself. The
galvanizer that I use (Southwest Galvanizing in Houston) will do any small
blasting (like welds) for a nominal or (most often) no added charge.
BTW, I can't believe that your axles weigh 200 lbs. each. Maybe with
springs and hubs attached but I doubt it even then unless they are like 7500
lb solid (i.e., not tube) axles with brakes.
If you are determined to paint it, get an industrial grade primer and finish
coat "system"or get ready to repaint every few years. When I paint a
trailer, I sandblast, prime and finish coat with an industrial grade paint.
I'd have to go to my shop to look at the cans to give you the names of the
exact paint but I get them from Sherman Williams. I'm sure that other paint
suppliers have comparable systems but you will not find "real" industrial
paint systems at Home Depot or Lowe's. Ospho is a somewhat less effective
alternative to sandblasting but FOR SURE do not just paint over mill scale.
It would be a shame to design and build a quality trailer and then condemn
it (and you) to a life of rust remediation.

"Gary Warner" wrote in message
...

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in
message


Are you going to paint it?


Yep, gonna paint it. Haven't yet but planning to contact some local body
shops to see what prices why have (should be a relatively simple job
compared to a car). We've also considered painting it ourselves with
spray cans - but I think a pro can do a nicer looking job and maybe
provide some paint that lasts longer + more protection.

At one point I also contacted some people that do color-galvanizing.
We've decided we'ld rather repaint every X years if we have to then
spend the money for the color-galvy - but it would be nice.

Welding our trailer - pics
 

"QLW" wrote:

Don't paint it!!! Galvanize it.
I pay around $38 per 100 lbs for galvanizing so most trailers can be
done for $300 to $400.

If we do galvanize I'd really like to do the color galvy. That grey just
looks so bla...and we've spent so much effort trying to make the
boat look good. Yea, you don't see the trailer when the boat is
in the water, but sometimes we might take her to an old-wooden
boat show and have her on the trailer. You have any experience
with color-galvy or cost?

I don't know anything about sand blasting. Our steel is all new
and we've oiled it (WD-40) to prevent rust, but I'd think maybe
we should sand blast it before painting/galvanizing. Can one
rent a sand blasting setup or is it just as easy to have the
paint/galv shop do it?



BTW, I can't believe that your axles weigh 200 lbs. each.
You may be right. My Dad weighed them and I'm not sure if maybe
he had the tires & hubs on and I'm not 100% certain of the weight
number he told me. I'm gonna go back down and weigh them later
today.


Ospho is a somewhat less effective
alternative to sandblasting but FOR SURE do not just paint over mill
scale.

Um, what is "Ospho" and what is "mill scale"? I assume mill scale just
means
the steel as it came from the mill ??


Thanks *very much* for taking time with this.
Gary

Welding our trailer - pics
 

You can get a low-production sandblaster pretty cheap. You will need a
compressor. Look here and type in "blaster" in the keyword search.

http://www.harborfreight.com/

Check with someone for the right media. I've heard of people using walnut
shells and dried corn cob pieces that they bought commercially for that purpose.

Dan


Gary Warner wrote:

"QLW" wrote:


Don't paint it!!! Galvanize it.
I pay around $38 per 100 lbs for galvanizing so most trailers can be
done for $300 to $400.


If we do galvanize I'd really like to do the color galvy. That grey just
looks so bla...and we've spent so much effort trying to make the
boat look good. Yea, you don't see the trailer when the boat is
in the water, but sometimes we might take her to an old-wooden
boat show and have her on the trailer. You have any experience
with color-galvy or cost?

I don't know anything about sand blasting. Our steel is all new
and we've oiled it (WD-40) to prevent rust, but I'd think maybe
we should sand blast it before painting/galvanizing. Can one
rent a sand blasting setup or is it just as easy to have the
paint/galv shop do it?




BTW, I can't believe that your axles weigh 200 lbs. each.

You may be right. My Dad weighed them and I'm not sure if maybe
he had the tires & hubs on and I'm not 100% certain of the weight
number he told me. I'm gonna go back down and weigh them later
today.



Ospho is a somewhat less effective
alternative to sandblasting but FOR SURE do not just paint over mill

scale.

Um, what is "Ospho" and what is "mill scale"? I assume mill scale just
means
the steel as it came from the mill ??


Thanks *very much* for taking time with this.
Gary

Welding our trailer - pics
 

I bought that 40 lb blaster from Harbor Freight to use when I don't want to
drag my trailer mounted blaster around. However, the nozzle that comes with
it is a joke and I simply replaced the nozzle with a commercial grade with a
"deadman" valve and it works great. But even a small tank like that needs
to be feed through large diameter hoses ( I use 1" ID with twist locks) and
at least 8 cfm @ 120 lbs. I do occasionally run it off of my 120v portable
compressor but I just have to stop often and let it catch up. Trying to
blast something as large as a trailer is just not practical with a small
compressor.

In answer to Gary's other questions. I know nothing about color
galvanizing.
As I said before, it is not necessary to sandblast new steel as the acid dip
that is part of the galvanizing process will deal with light rust and mill
scale. Mill scale is the gray/black oxidation that is found on hot rolled
structural steel. The flux and heavy oxidation that is found around the
welds is another matter and light sand blasting is really the only way to
deal with these, especially in corners that can not be reached with a wire
wheel or grinder.

Oiling the steel before taking it to be galvanized or painted is a very bad
idea as it will hinder the pickling process and may make sandblasting
necessary. I think WD40 will not be a problem as it pretty well evaporates.

Ospho is the trade name for a phosphate process to convert the rust/mill
scale (ferrous oxide) to a more stable surface for painting. There are
several other painting systems that may actually be better and maybe someone
on the NG that is more paint savvy than I can give some advice. When I
know that I'm going to paint, I just plan on blasting the whole thing...but
that is an expensive choice both in labor and materials. I buy sand by the
3000 lb pallet but it still takes me half a day to go pick up a load and I
have to pass that cost on.

The bottom line is, if all of the weld joints and hard to reach nooks and
crannies are not completely cleaned and primed, the trailer is going to rust
and trying to clean and repaint after it rusts is even harder. I guess
because I live on sal****er, I see the problem magnified...but salt or
fresh, rust is a big problem for painted trailers.

"Dan Krueger" wrote in message
link.net...
You can get a low-production sandblaster pretty cheap. You will need a
compressor. Look here and type in "blaster" in the keyword search.

http://www.harborfreight.com/

Check with someone for the right media. I've heard of people using walnut
shells and dried corn cob pieces that they bought commercially for that
purpose.

Dan


Gary Warner wrote:

"QLW" wrote:


Don't paint it!!! Galvanize it.
I pay around $38 per 100 lbs for galvanizing so most trailers can be
done for $300 to $400.


If we do galvanize I'd really like to do the color galvy. That grey
just
looks so bla...and we've spent so much effort trying to make the
boat look good. Yea, you don't see the trailer when the boat is
in the water, but sometimes we might take her to an old-wooden
boat show and have her on the trailer. You have any experience
with color-galvy or cost?

I don't know anything about sand blasting. Our steel is all new
and we've oiled it (WD-40) to prevent rust, but I'd think maybe
we should sand blast it before painting/galvanizing. Can one
rent a sand blasting setup or is it just as easy to have the
paint/galv shop do it?




BTW, I can't believe that your axles weigh 200 lbs. each.

You may be right. My Dad weighed them and I'm not sure if maybe
he had the tires & hubs on and I'm not 100% certain of the weight
number he told me. I'm gonna go back down and weigh them later
today.



Ospho is a somewhat less effective
alternative to sandblasting but FOR SURE do not just paint over mill

scale.

Um, what is "Ospho" and what is "mill scale"? I assume mill scale just
means
the steel as it came from the mill ??


Thanks *very much* for taking time with this.
Gary