Got an old Monkey Wards Sea King .7.5 by Chrysler, and I am stumped.
It won't run on the bottom cylinder, not matter what I do. So far, I've :

changed the head, head gasket, coil, converted to electronic ignition,
went over the carb (twice), two new sets of plugs, looked at the reed
valves, and it STILL won't run regularly on that bottom cylinder. Runs
fine on the top cylinder, and every now and then you hear I occasionally
hear it pop and shutter, and hear it kick in, but for the most part, the
bottom cylinder won't run. Plug just black, sometime fluffy black,
sometime wet black. I even looked at the fuel pump diaphragm
under a magnifier glass, and it too looks fine. So what the heck
could I be missing here? Compression is at 150 Lbs. I just don't
get it. The only thing I can think of is the bottom crankcase seal
is bad, and I'm sucking in air or water or something. I even took
off the exhaust manifold plate to make sure the exhaust port wasn't
plugged. Peeked in the exhaust port, and the edge of the piston
looks fine. Surely someone have the missing clue, help!!

Thanks !

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 03:10:04 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:

Got an old Monkey Wards Sea King .7.5 by Chrysler, and I am stumped.
It won't run on the bottom cylinder, not matter what I do. So far, I've :

changed the head, head gasket, coil, converted to electronic ignition,
went over the carb (twice), two new sets of plugs, looked at the reed
valves, and it STILL won't run regularly on that bottom cylinder. Runs
fine on the top cylinder, and every now and then you hear I occasionally
hear it pop and shutter, and hear it kick in, but for the most part, the
bottom cylinder won't run. Plug just black, sometime fluffy black,
sometime wet black. I even looked at the fuel pump diaphragm
under a magnifier glass, and it too looks fine. So what the heck
could I be missing here? Compression is at 150 Lbs. I just don't
get it. The only thing I can think of is the bottom crankcase seal
is bad, and I'm sucking in air or water or something. I even took
off the exhaust manifold plate to make sure the exhaust port wasn't
plugged. Peeked in the exhaust port, and the edge of the piston
looks fine. Surely someone have the missing clue, help!!

Power pack?

Later,

Tom

Also Sprach Short Wave Sportfishing :

Power pack?

No power pack in this old boy. It's basically an aircooled lawnmower
engine with an outboard leg. (I have one sitting in my garage)

To the OP... I'm thinking sparkplug wire maybe? Can you check with a
spark tester to see if the spark can jump the same gap on each cylinder?

Also, where ever did you find an electronic igniton for one of thses
things?

Dan

--
Every now and then when your life gets complicated and the weasels
start closing in, the only cure is to load up on heinous chemicals and
then drive like a ******* from Hollywood to Las Vegas ... with the
music at top volume and at least a pint of ether.

-- H.S. Thompson, "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas"

"Marshall Banana" wrote in message
...
Also Sprach Short Wave Sportfishing :

Power pack?

No power pack in this old boy. It's basically an aircooled lawnmower
engine with an outboard leg. (I have one sitting in my garage)

To the OP... I'm thinking sparkplug wire maybe? Can you check with a
spark tester to see if the spark can jump the same gap on each cylinder?

I got a new coil (w/ spark plug wire), and switched coils, etc.




Also, where ever did you find an electronic igniton for one of thses
things?


Ah!, simple!. *Since* the flywheel has only "one" magent, you can
use these $13 universal ignition modules/breaker point eliminator
modules - I've been using them on ALL engine that comes thru here with
breaker points. Works great for 1, or 2 cylinder engines that uses a
magneto ignition where "one" magnet in the flywheel swings past a coil(s).
Its called a "Nova II", or a "universal ignition" module for small engines,
and can find them on line at any small engine supply outfit on the web.
They are about the size of a postage stamp, and eliminates the condenser,
and most importantly, the breaker points! - no more points in a 2-cylinder
means you don't have to worry about matching up point gaps, *or* worry
about situation where the lobe is worn that opens/closes the points (which
is how I got involved in these modules in the FIRST place). I re-did a 1974
Sears Gamefisher 7.5 (made by Eska w/ a Tecumseh engine) where the
lobe was too worn to open the points far enough. So pass this info on!!
For 1, or 2 cylinder OB's with flywheel/magneto ignitions, take the points
and condenser(s) out, and put one of these little things in, they are very
reliable! 2 terminals, and one screw, thats ALL there is to it!! Look :!

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/31-8786.html

http://www.srnow.net/auto/detailview...323506&id3=YES

And last item on this list:
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ignition_t.cfm


So yeah, I simply can't say enough about these little miricles!.
Now, back to my problem, any ideas ??













Dan

--
Every now and then when your life gets complicated and the weasels
start closing in, the only cure is to load up on heinous chemicals and
then drive like a ******* from Hollywood to Las Vegas ... with the
music at top volume and at least a pint of ether.

-- H.S. Thompson, "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas"

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 18:45:04 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:


"Marshall Banana" wrote in message
...
Also Sprach Short Wave Sportfishing :

Power pack?

No power pack in this old boy. It's basically an aircooled lawnmower
engine with an outboard leg. (I have one sitting in my garage)

To the OP... I'm thinking sparkplug wire maybe? Can you check with a
spark tester to see if the spark can jump the same gap on each cylinder?

I got a new coil (w/ spark plug wire), and switched coils, etc.




Also, where ever did you find an electronic igniton for one of thses
things?


Ah!, simple!. *Since* the flywheel has only "one" magent, you can
use these $13 universal ignition modules/breaker point eliminator
modules - I've been using them on ALL engine that comes thru here with
breaker points. Works great for 1, or 2 cylinder engines that uses a
magneto ignition where "one" magnet in the flywheel swings past a coil(s).
Its called a "Nova II", or a "universal ignition" module for small engines,
and can find them on line at any small engine supply outfit on the web.
They are about the size of a postage stamp, and eliminates the condenser,
and most importantly, the breaker points! - no more points in a 2-cylinder
means you don't have to worry about matching up point gaps, *or* worry
about situation where the lobe is worn that opens/closes the points (which
is how I got involved in these modules in the FIRST place). I re-did a 1974
Sears Gamefisher 7.5 (made by Eska w/ a Tecumseh engine) where the
lobe was too worn to open the points far enough. So pass this info on!!
For 1, or 2 cylinder OB's with flywheel/magneto ignitions, take the points
and condenser(s) out, and put one of these little things in, they are very
reliable! 2 terminals, and one screw, thats ALL there is to it!! Look :!

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/31-8786.html

http://www.srnow.net/auto/detailview...323506&id3=YES

And last item on this list:
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ignition_t.cfm


So yeah, I simply can't say enough about these little miricles!.
Now, back to my problem, any ideas ??

Change the module? :)

Later,

Tom

"Beware the one legged man in a butt
kicking contest - he is there for a
reason."

Wun Hung Lo - date unknown

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 18:45:04 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:


"Marshall Banana" wrote in message
...
Also Sprach Short Wave Sportfishing :

Power pack?

No power pack in this old boy. It's basically an aircooled lawnmower
engine with an outboard leg. (I have one sitting in my garage)

To the OP... I'm thinking sparkplug wire maybe? Can you check with a
spark tester to see if the spark can jump the same gap on each
cylinder?

I got a new coil (w/ spark plug wire), and switched coils, etc.




Also, where ever did you find an electronic igniton for one of thses
things?


Ah!, simple!. *Since* the flywheel has only "one" magent, you can
use these $13 universal ignition modules/breaker point eliminator
modules - I've been using them on ALL engine that comes thru here with
breaker points. Works great for 1, or 2 cylinder engines that uses a
magneto ignition where "one" magnet in the flywheel swings past a
coil(s).
Its called a "Nova II", or a "universal ignition" module for small
engines,
and can find them on line at any small engine supply outfit on the web.
They are about the size of a postage stamp, and eliminates the condenser,
and most importantly, the breaker points! - no more points in a
2-cylinder
means you don't have to worry about matching up point gaps, *or* worry
about situation where the lobe is worn that opens/closes the points
(which
is how I got involved in these modules in the FIRST place). I re-did a
1974
Sears Gamefisher 7.5 (made by Eska w/ a Tecumseh engine) where the
lobe was too worn to open the points far enough. So pass this info on!!
For 1, or 2 cylinder OB's with flywheel/magneto ignitions, take the
points
and condenser(s) out, and put one of these little things in, they are
very
reliable! 2 terminals, and one screw, thats ALL there is to it!! Look
:!

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/31-8786.html

http://www.srnow.net/auto/detailview...323506&id3=YES

And last item on this list:
http://www.jackssmallengines.com/ignition_t.cfm


So yeah, I simply can't say enough about these little miricles!.
Now, back to my problem, any ideas ??

Change the module? :)

...This is the best you can come up with Tom? ...
I was somehow hoping for a different answer.
(hehe, never mind that inch and a half blue spark
I can draw off of the tip of the new plug wire that
is attached to that "new" coil driven by that brand
new module).




Later,

Tom

"Beware the one legged man in a butt
kicking contest - he is there for a
reason."

Wun Hung Lo - date unknown

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 03:10:04 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:

Got an old Monkey Wards Sea King .7.5 by Chrysler, and I am stumped.
It won't run on the bottom cylinder, not matter what I do. So far, I've :

changed the head, head gasket, coil, converted to electronic ignition,
went over the carb (twice), two new sets of plugs, looked at the reed
valves, and it STILL won't run regularly on that bottom cylinder. Runs
fine on the top cylinder, and every now and then you hear I occasionally
hear it pop and shutter, and hear it kick in, but for the most part, the
bottom cylinder won't run. Plug just black, sometime fluffy black,
sometime wet black. I even looked at the fuel pump diaphragm
under a magnifier glass, and it too looks fine. So what the heck
could I be missing here? Compression is at 150 Lbs. I just don't
get it. The only thing I can think of is the bottom crankcase seal
is bad, and I'm sucking in air or water or something. I even took
off the exhaust manifold plate to make sure the exhaust port wasn't
plugged. Peeked in the exhaust port, and the edge of the piston
looks fine. Surely someone have the missing clue, help!!

Power pack?

What is a "power pack" ? ...This is an old Sea King 7.5 with
"type A" (I think) iginition, it's like a lawn mower, has one coil,
one condenser, and one set of breaker points for each of the
two cylingers, all of which is under the flywheel (which has just
one magnet).

Surely someone must have some insight to this total mystery ??
I've been working on small engines, and specifically 2-strokes
for a long-long times, so this unsolved mystery has been having
a huge inpact on my life (and my shop, my time, and everything else).







Later,

Tom

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 18:28:50 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
.. .
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 03:10:04 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:

Got an old Monkey Wards Sea King .7.5 by Chrysler, and I am stumped.
It won't run on the bottom cylinder, not matter what I do. So far, I've :

changed the head, head gasket, coil, converted to electronic ignition,
went over the carb (twice), two new sets of plugs, looked at the reed
valves, and it STILL won't run regularly on that bottom cylinder. Runs
fine on the top cylinder, and every now and then you hear I occasionally
hear it pop and shutter, and hear it kick in, but for the most part, the
bottom cylinder won't run. Plug just black, sometime fluffy black,
sometime wet black. I even looked at the fuel pump diaphragm
under a magnifier glass, and it too looks fine. So what the heck
could I be missing here? Compression is at 150 Lbs. I just don't
get it. The only thing I can think of is the bottom crankcase seal
is bad, and I'm sucking in air or water or something. I even took
off the exhaust manifold plate to make sure the exhaust port wasn't
plugged. Peeked in the exhaust port, and the edge of the piston
looks fine. Surely someone have the missing clue, help!!

Power pack?

What is a "power pack" ? ...This is an old Sea King 7.5 with
"type A" (I think) iginition, it's like a lawn mower, has one coil,
one condenser, and one set of breaker points for each of the
two cylingers, all of which is under the flywheel (which has just
one magnet).

Hey, it was a shot in the dark. :) I didn't see an answer, so I
thought I'd throw it out. My experience is with much later 2 cycle
engines and not much at that, although I have rebuilt one or two.

A power pack is similar to a coil in an auto.

Surely someone must have some insight to this total mystery ??
I've been working on small engines, and specifically 2-strokes
for a long-long times, so this unsolved mystery has been having
a huge inpact on my life (and my shop, my time, and everything else).

From my limited knowledge of this subject, I would think crank seal.

Later,

Tom

"Beware the one legged man in a butt
kicking contest - he is there for a
reason."

Wun Hung Lo - date unknown

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 18:28:50 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in
message
.. .
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 03:10:04 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:

Got an old Monkey Wards Sea King .7.5 by Chrysler, and I am stumped.
It won't run on the bottom cylinder, not matter what I do. So far,
I've :

changed the head, head gasket, coil, converted to electronic ignition,
went over the carb (twice), two new sets of plugs, looked at the reed
valves, and it STILL won't run regularly on that bottom cylinder. Runs
fine on the top cylinder, and every now and then you hear I
occasionally
hear it pop and shutter, and hear it kick in, but for the most part,
the
bottom cylinder won't run. Plug just black, sometime fluffy black,
sometime wet black. I even looked at the fuel pump diaphragm
under a magnifier glass, and it too looks fine. So what the heck
could I be missing here? Compression is at 150 Lbs. I just don't
get it. The only thing I can think of is the bottom crankcase seal
is bad, and I'm sucking in air or water or something. I even took
off the exhaust manifold plate to make sure the exhaust port wasn't
plugged. Peeked in the exhaust port, and the edge of the piston
looks fine. Surely someone have the missing clue, help!!

Power pack?

What is a "power pack" ? ...This is an old Sea King 7.5 with
"type A" (I think) iginition, it's like a lawn mower, has one coil,
one condenser, and one set of breaker points for each of the
two cylingers, all of which is under the flywheel (which has just
one magnet).

Hey, it was a shot in the dark. :) I didn't see an answer, so I
thought I'd throw it out. My experience is with much later 2 cycle
engines and not much at that, although I have rebuilt one or two.

A power pack is similar to a coil in an auto.

Surely someone must have some insight to this total mystery ??
I've been working on small engines, and specifically 2-strokes
for a long-long times, so this unsolved mystery has been having
a huge inpact on my life (and my shop, my time, and everything else).

From my limited knowledge of this subject, I would think crank seal.

Yeah, well, thats what its getting down to, huh? Actually, makes
sence too, because if you think about it, its the *only* part so far
that I'm not able to "visually inspect", so it it truely an unknown.
Wanna hear something scary? - I got the service manual, right?.
And this is the mother of all service manuals too I might add -
it reads like the guys diary, the auther is VERY chatty. Anyway,
in this area, he says this: In almost ALL cases on very old engines,
and almost *definetly* on a salt water motor, the drive shaft to
crankshaft spline with be frozen, and you have to drill a large
hole in the intermeadiate housing (leg), reach in with a cutting
torch and cut the drive shaft (to get the power head seperated).
Of course, he doesn't say how to get the frozen cut off piece
of the shaft out of the crankshaft spline. Wondering if the motor
is worth it at this point. Was given to me with the "see if it runs,
and give me what you think its worth" disclaimer - it hasn't run
in 8 years. So I got $100 into it, and its either go all the way,
or eat the $100. The cutting of the drive shaft/torch doesn't
bother me, hell I recently did exactally that with this old 1974
Sears Gamefisher to where I had to TIG weld the clutch solid.
I dunno. To boot, I just got a brand new 2005 Johnson 8 for
my 9 foot Zodiac, (and man do I like life over that !!). This old,
near freebee was to be for my neighbor who really needs something.
But to be honest, its really more for my special love of reviving
an old engine and seeing it run, and get used. But of late, not
sure that has much value anymore - I'd love to get my work
bench back.

Thanks for listening!





Later,

Tom

"Beware the one legged man in a butt
kicking contest - he is there for a
reason."

Wun Hung Lo - date unknown

On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 19:25:59 GMT, "Mr Wizzard"
wrote:

~~ snippage ~~

But to be honest, its really more for my special love of reviving
an old engine and seeing it run, and get used. But of late, not
sure that has much value anymore - I'd love to get my work
bench back.

I hear you brother. My particular love was a 1950 International
Pickup. It was a totally trashed 1950 L-110 that I restored and ran
as a daily until I couldn't drive it anymore due to the manual
three on the tree.

I've done a couple of others over my lifetime - something about those
older trucks.

Later,

Tom