Penn Yan?
 

Anyone familiar with this brand? I'm looking at a 26' twin Chrysler 318's
w/inboard, "tunnel drive".
thanks, LD

LD wrote:
Anyone familiar with this brand? I'm looking at a 26' twin Chrysler 318's
w/inboard, "tunnel drive".
thanks, LD



Yeah. Great canoes, great round bilge, canvas covered cedar strip
outboard boats in the late 1940s and 1950s, really beautiful little
boats. Sorry that I know zip about the newer models. You need a surveyor
to look the boat over from top to bottom, and to check over the engines
very, very carefully.



--
We today have a president of the United States who looks like he is the
son of Howdy Doody or Alfred E. Newman, who isn't smarter than either of
them, who is arrogant about his ignorance, who is reckless and
incompetent, and whose backers are turning the United States into a pariah.

What, me worry?

Around 10/2/2004 7:44 AM, Harry Krause wrote:

LD wrote:

Anyone familiar with this brand?

Yeah. Great canoes, great round bilge, canvas covered cedar strip
outboard boats in the late 1940s and 1950s, really beautiful little
boats.

.... at least until they're backed into:

http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched10.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched11.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched12.jpg


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

Decent boats with shallow draft. As Harry suggested have a good surveyor go
over them. The engines bear a very close look. I like them.

Butch
"Garth Almgren" wrote in message
...
Around 10/2/2004 7:44 AM, Harry Krause wrote:

LD wrote:

Anyone familiar with this brand?

Yeah. Great canoes, great round bilge, canvas covered cedar strip
outboard boats in the late 1940s and 1950s, really beautiful little
boats.

... at least until they're backed into:

http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched10.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched11.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched12.jpg


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

On Sat, 2 Oct 2004 10:42:49 -0400, "LD" wrote:

Anyone familiar with this brand? I'm looking at a 26' twin Chrysler 318's
w/inboard, "tunnel drive".

Fly bridge, second control station below, small berth area,
salon/head/dinette with enclosed gally, etc?

Good boats.

The tunnel drive - here's a site that will describe the tunnel drive
and how it works.

http://www.outpostterra.com/outpost/b3/tundri.shtml

Anyway....

They all have one thing in common - they tend to be nose heavy - they
need trim tabs. The tunnel drive system is designed to bring boats
closer to shore - shallow draft in other words. Theoretically, the
tunnel drive concentrates the thrust of prop, but in practice, it's
just another drive.

The 318 is a good motor, but it's not terribly efficient compared to
other inboards. Two of them will suck some gas.

As to the Penn Yann it'self, it's a good boat - they sold a lot of
these and there are a lot of them still around and in decent shape.

What to look for before you even think about buying this? Sound the
hull with a small hammer, look for stress cracks along the chines,
make sure the bottom paint is good if it's been out of the water for a
while, check the stringers with a small hammer (if there is a rather
weak thud rather than a strong thunk, then the stringers are no good),
sound the transom for the same problem, check for soggy decks (in
particular the fly bridge and the areas around the cabin), etc.

If you decide that you want the boat, then give a deposit and hire a
surveyor to do exactly what you just did. Trust me on this - you
can't lose by spending a couple hundred bucks on a surveyor. I know
from what I speak.

If the boat passes inspection, take it for a test drive with the
surveyor. The surveyor has the heat sensors to check that the risers
are within spec and the engine isn't overheating. It also gives you a
chance to drive it under supervision and see if you like the way it
handles. Once that's done, then have the surveyor do a compression
check on both engines.

After that, it's a question of negotiating a final price if the things
wrong are minor and there are no major repairs to be made. If there
are, then you have some more negotiating room if you really want the
boat and are willing to put some time into it.

At the very minimum, get a surveyor.

Later,

Tom
-----------
"Angling may be said to be so
like the mathematics that it
can never be fully learnt..."

Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653

On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 20:05:32 -0400, JohnH
wrote:

~~ snippage ~~

Tom, do you have any idea what the temperature of a riser should be on a warm
5.7L Mercruiser? Should there be a difference in the temperatures of the two?
The mechanic at my marina told me the starboard riser will run hotter than the
port. Any knowledge of this?

No, although the engines I've seen serviced by shop technicians
usually run between 90/110º - anything above 130º is considered
suspect but that's not an official temperature - it's just an
observation on my part.

As to differences between risers, I'm not sure why that would happen
and would love to hear if there is a difference and why. I've never
heard anything about a difference being normal.

Take care.

Tom

"The beatings will stop when morale improves."
E. Teach, 1717

On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 20:49:58 -0400, JohnH
wrote:

On Sun, 03 Oct 2004 00:19:13 GMT, Short Wave Sportfishing
wrote:

On Sat, 02 Oct 2004 20:05:32 -0400, JohnH
wrote:

~~ snippage ~~

Tom, do you have any idea what the temperature of a riser should be on a warm
5.7L Mercruiser? Should there be a difference in the temperatures of the two?
The mechanic at my marina told me the starboard riser will run hotter than the
port. Any knowledge of this?

No, although the engines I've seen serviced by shop technicians
usually run between 90/110º - anything above 130º is considered
suspect but that's not an official temperature - it's just an
observation on my part.

As to differences between risers, I'm not sure why that would happen
and would love to hear if there is a difference and why. I've never
heard anything about a difference being normal.

The mechanic said something to the effect that the water from the circulating
pump gets to the port manifold first. (?) I didn't go look at the cooling system
to see if that made sense, and I can't find enough detail on the web to verify
or disprove it. The thermostat is 160 degrees. That would seem to imply that the
surface temp of the riser, which is cooled with that water and heated with
exhaust gases, would be somewhere in that ballpark. But there is a noticeable
(to the touch) difference between the temps of the two risers. I'd guess 15
degrees or so. (My temp sensors in fingers have not been calibrated, however.)

Well, I can't say myself - just don't have the experience with
inboards that I would have liked to have. Almost all the engines on
boats I've owned have been outboards - I've only owned one inboard and
the only thing I did to that boat was rebuild the engine. I sold the
boat three months after I bought it.

However, I did know a guy who had a very accurate torgue arm. He
could nail torgue values up to about 40 lbs. I don't know if he can
still do it or not.

Later,

Tom

Thanks for the input guys; I've looked at this 26' hurricane damaged boat,
(about a football sized hole back from the bow about 5' and just below the
waterline, which I'm confident I can fix). I'd like to get a boat on a low
budget that's capable of taking me 20-30 miles out to go after the big ones
and spend the night if I had or wanted to (in calm weather). The roominess,
stability (w/10 1/2' beam), dual station, twin engines all appeals to me.
It's a major fixer upper but, hey, it's just time and money. It looks like
I could get it into the water for fishing for about $5000. My areas of
concern are the tunnel drive (how fast??) w/the 318's and the seemly lack of
strength at the roof area to the deck with all the glass? Anyway, it's just
a thought about yet another project. Told the wife it would keep me off the
street!

"Butch Davis" wrote in message
nk.net...
Decent boats with shallow draft. As Harry suggested have a good surveyor
go
over them. The engines bear a very close look. I like them.

Butch
"Garth Almgren" wrote in message
...
Around 10/2/2004 7:44 AM, Harry Krause wrote:

LD wrote:

Anyone familiar with this brand?

Yeah. Great canoes, great round bilge, canvas covered cedar strip
outboard boats in the late 1940s and 1950s, really beautiful little
boats.

... at least until they're backed into:

http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched10.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched11.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched12.jpg


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

Wow, an intresting, informative site!! However, I don't think the rest of
this boat is up to the speed possible by this propulsion system.
Thanks, LD


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 2 Oct 2004 10:42:49 -0400, "LD" wrote:

Anyone familiar with this brand? I'm looking at a 26' twin Chrysler
318's
w/inboard, "tunnel drive".

Fly bridge, second control station below, small berth area,
salon/head/dinette with enclosed gally, etc?

Good boats.

The tunnel drive - here's a site that will describe the tunnel drive
and how it works.

http://www.outpostterra.com/outpost/b3/tundri.shtml

Anyway....

They all have one thing in common - they tend to be nose heavy - they
need trim tabs. The tunnel drive system is designed to bring boats
closer to shore - shallow draft in other words. Theoretically, the
tunnel drive concentrates the thrust of prop, but in practice, it's
just another drive.

The 318 is a good motor, but it's not terribly efficient compared to
other inboards. Two of them will suck some gas.

As to the Penn Yann it'self, it's a good boat - they sold a lot of
these and there are a lot of them still around and in decent shape.

What to look for before you even think about buying this? Sound the
hull with a small hammer, look for stress cracks along the chines,
make sure the bottom paint is good if it's been out of the water for a
while, check the stringers with a small hammer (if there is a rather
weak thud rather than a strong thunk, then the stringers are no good),
sound the transom for the same problem, check for soggy decks (in
particular the fly bridge and the areas around the cabin), etc.

If you decide that you want the boat, then give a deposit and hire a
surveyor to do exactly what you just did. Trust me on this - you
can't lose by spending a couple hundred bucks on a surveyor. I know
from what I speak.

If the boat passes inspection, take it for a test drive with the
surveyor. The surveyor has the heat sensors to check that the risers
are within spec and the engine isn't overheating. It also gives you a
chance to drive it under supervision and see if you like the way it
handles. Once that's done, then have the surveyor do a compression
check on both engines.

After that, it's a question of negotiating a final price if the things
wrong are minor and there are no major repairs to be made. If there
are, then you have some more negotiating room if you really want the
boat and are willing to put some time into it.

At the very minimum, get a surveyor.

Later,

Tom
-----------
"Angling may be said to be so
like the mathematics that it
can never be fully learnt..."

Izaak Walton "The Compleat Angler", 1653

Is there something specific about the 318's to look for? I really don't
know anything about a 4 stroke, inboard drive but I've rebuilt a few 289's
and 350's. Other than a compression and oil pressure check and obvious
cracks in the exhaust/cooling system, what else? I can see how, if it's not
an outboard, the inboard drive should be much simpler and less prone to
failure than an out-drive.

"Butch Davis" wrote in message
nk.net...
Decent boats with shallow draft. As Harry suggested have a good surveyor
go
over them. The engines bear a very close look. I like them.

Butch
"Garth Almgren" wrote in message
...
Around 10/2/2004 7:44 AM, Harry Krause wrote:

LD wrote:

Anyone familiar with this brand?

Yeah. Great canoes, great round bilge, canvas covered cedar strip
outboard boats in the late 1940s and 1950s, really beautiful little
boats.

... at least until they're backed into:

http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched10.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched11.jpg
http://galmgren.home.comcast.net/chr...crunched12.jpg


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows