Gene Kearns wrote:

Your scenario is only valid in an engine that uses very light oil and
is infrequently used. There should be enough oil remaining in the
clearances between bearings and journals to allow an engine to
re-start without damage.

I'm helping a neighbor rebuild the gasoline engine in his old Sears
tractor. The engine hasn't been started in more than a year. When we
took it apart, there still was an oil film on every part there should
have been.


--
We today have a president of the United States who looks like he is the
son of Howdy Doody or Alfred E. Newman, who isn't smarter than either of
them, who is arrogant about his ignorance, who is reckless and
incompetent, and whose backers are turning the United States into a pariah.

What, me worry?

okay, be a dumb **** then. no skin off my teeth.

(BenC)
Date: 9/21/2004 3:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

(JAXAshby) wrote in message
...
How does all of this translate to outboards that run 120f thermostats?
If the oil is formulated for 210 degree operating temps (most cars) does
it
still work at 120-150?
I notice my merc 4 stroke has pretty low oil pressure 20-30 hours into an
oil
change when I run Merc 10-30. If I use an auto brand it acts the same way.
It
does better with merc 25-40

10w-30 at 150* will give less oil pressure than 30W at 150*

The advantage of multi oil is engine lube at ambient temp start up.









im fairly sure i can just ignore your childish posts jax as its fairly
obvious you have no clue what you are talking about.

http://www.autoeducation.com/autoshop101/oil-change.htm

read and learn. have a nice day.

if ANYone tells you multi grade oil "thicken up" after they warm (I saw the
clown from Mack Boring, Larry Berlin make that very claim in a seminar), invite
them to put a $100 bill on the table. Then, you pour room temp 10w-40 oil into
an old frying pan on the stove. notice how it moves around when you tilt the
pan. Turn on the burner and wait a couple minutes. Then tilt the pan again
and notice how the oil moves around.

Duh. any clown who tells you multi's "thicken up" has not once in his life
pulled a dipstick on an engine with multi when at room temp and again when at
operating temp.

dumb, dumb, dumb.

I don't want to get in the "less filling" "tastes great" battle about whether
multi grade oils thicken or stay the same over the 0 - 210f range but I do
know
that 10-30 starts out holding about 40 PSI right after a change in my boat
and
in about 15-20 hours it is more like 35. Something is going on.
That is using Merc oil or a good auto oil. If I bump it up to 25-40 it is
better. Straight 30 acts about the same as the 25-40.
Since I am never going to be in my boat if it is much below 70 degrees (air).
I
am not sure why I am not just running 30HD. Cooling water will range from 67f
to 88f (5 year min/max) based on the water samples I do for the state.

I
am not sure why I am not just running 30HD.

because 30w does not lube pressure oil bearings as quickly upon engine startup
as does 5w-40. Not by a long shot. you can hear the difference, easily.

genei, you just laid waste to your claim of having an A & E, and using same to
make your living. even a hammer mechanic can hear the difference.

genie, knock it off. kriste on a crutch.

First of
all, 5 weight oil doesn't "lube better" than 40 weight oil.

it most certainly does, during the seconds it takes for pressure oil of a
just
started cold (meaning not at operating temp) engine to reach all the
bearings
needing pressure oil. 5w oil flows more easier at starting temp than does
40w
(ob vee us frickin' lee). that clatter you hear (well, a qualified mechanic
hears) on a just started engine is the bearings grinding and rubbing and
clashing with no pressue oil present.

If you hear "bearings grinding and rubbing and clashing" 5 weight, or
even 0 weight isn't going to help you. Besides, a real mechanic knows
that what you are probably hearing is valve lash, before the lifters
pump up.

Your scenario is only valid in an engine that uses very light oil and
is infrequently used. There should be enough oil remaining in the
clearances between bearings and journals to allow an engine to
re-start without damage.

Most people probably start their vehicle about 1250 times a year.....
if we heard "bearings grinding and rubbing and clashing" each time, I
don't think an automobile would last a month........

Mobil makes a 0W-40. Why don't you go out at fill that sunfish (or is
it Sunfish) (oh-ho-ho-ho-ho-ho..... Oh God, stop it Jax, you're
killing me with those capitals) up with some zero weight to help those
bearings out...... maybe if you wait long enough they'll come out
with a -30W-0 and that is sure to work even better..... have you
tried straight kerosene yet???

--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/ Homepage
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC
is located.
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide

thank you hoary for confusing oil film with pressure oil. what a genius you
are. we are honored by your presence.

Harry Krause
Date: 9/21/2004 8:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

Gene Kearns wrote:

Your scenario is only valid in an engine that uses very light oil and
is infrequently used. There should be enough oil remaining in the
clearances between bearings and journals to allow an engine to
re-start without damage.

I'm helping a neighbor rebuild the gasoline engine in his old Sears
tractor. The engine hasn't been started in more than a year. When we
took it apart, there still was an oil film on every part there should
have been.


--
We today have a president of the United States who looks like he is the
son of Howdy Doody or Alfred E. Newman, who isn't smarter than either of
them, who is arrogant about his ignorance, who is reckless and
incompetent, and whose backers are turning the United States into a pariah.

What, me worry?

genei, knock it off. you long ago stopped trying to make a living even as a
tear down mechanic for 1940's aircraft engines.

Gene Kearns
Date: 9/21/2004 8:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time
Message-id:

On 21 Sep 2004 02:14:44 GMT, (JAXAshby) wrote:

How does all of this translate to outboards that run 120f thermostats?
If the oil is formulated for 210 degree operating temps (most cars) does it
still work at 120-150?
I notice my merc 4 stroke has pretty low oil pressure 20-30 hours into an
oil
change when I run Merc 10-30. If I use an auto brand it acts the same way.
It
does better with merc 25-40

10w-30 at 150* will give less oil pressure than 30W at 150*

The advantage of multi oil is engine lube at ambient temp start up.



Demonstrably, one of the most incredibly ignorant posts you have ever
made.....

http://www.fammllc.com/htmlpub/LUBE_bulletin_06.htm



--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/ Homepage
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC
is located.
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide

Garth Almgren wrote:
: Around 9/19/2004 10:32 PM, Calif Bill wrote:

: Well jaxass, how come cars have successfully run for years with straight
: weight? My Ford 351W in the boat calls for straight 30 weight.


: As does the Crusader 220 in my dad's Chris...


As does my OMC 3.8 liter (manufacturer recommends straight 30W).

b.

(JAXAshby) wrote in message ...
okay, be a dumb **** then. no skin off my teeth.

Jax, you are nothing short of an ignorant, bitter piece of ****, do
you know that? Ever wonder why you have no friends? THAT is the bitter
piece of **** part. Ever wonder why no one here ever agrees with
anything you ATTEMPT to act like you know about? THAT is the ignorant
part.

I bow to your authority on *that* subject.....


genei, my authority, and the authority of millions of professional mechanics,
and even more amateurs.

genei, you just laid waste to your claim of having an A & E, and using same
to
make your living. even a hammer mechanic can hear the difference.


I bow to your authority on *that* subject.....


--



Grady-White Gulfstream, out of Southport, NC.

http://myworkshop.idleplay.net/cavern/ Homepage
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.com/directions.asp Where Southport,NC
is located.
http://www.southharbourvillageinn.linksysnet.com Real Time
Pictures at My Marina
http://www.thebayguide.com/rec.boats Rec.boats
at Lee Yeaton's Bayguide