WD40

Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ...

Two people twist ... in about a week ...

That's my guess ... Had this happen to me.

Mike Goodman
High Point, NC

"KAYAKFAN" wrote...
WD40

Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ...

Two people twist ... in about a week ...

WD-40 may work, but a penetrating oil may work faster, depending on the degree
of corrosion...

KAYAKFAN ) writes:
WD40

Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ...

tap, tap, tap

for rusty bolts on the car I use 2 applications of WD40 per day with some
gentle tapping an twisting - takes about 3 days


Two people twist ... in about a week ...

That's my guess ... Had this happen to me.

Mike Goodman
High Point, NC


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Thanks for great suggestions. I know that this will take time and patience!
"William R. Watt" wrote in message
...

KAYAKFAN ) writes:
WD40

Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ...

tap, tap, tap

for rusty bolts on the car I use 2 applications of WD40 per day with some
gentle tapping an twisting - takes about 3 days


Two people twist ... in about a week ...

That's my guess ... Had this happen to me.

Mike Goodman
High Point, NC


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William R Watt National Capital FreeNet Ottawa's free community
network
homepage: www.ncf.ca/~ag384/top.htm
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On 12 Sep 2004 20:40:01 GMT, (William R. Watt)
wrote:


KAYAKFAN ) writes:
WD40

Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ...

tap, tap, tap

I heartily agree with the tap, tap, tapping. NOT pound, pound, pound.
Lots of gentle tapping, maybe even for hours. Oh yeah, wiggle, wiggle,
wiggle, too. Rinse. Repeat.

__
Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA
Illiterate? Write for FREE help

tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female side
towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined
pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly
melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it.
"Galen Hekhuis" wrote in message
...
On 12 Sep 2004 20:40:01 GMT, (William R. Watt)
wrote:


KAYAKFAN ) writes:
WD40

Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ...

tap, tap, tap

I heartily agree with the tap, tap, tapping. NOT pound, pound, pound.
Lots of gentle tapping, maybe even for hours. Oh yeah, wiggle, wiggle,
wiggle, too. Rinse. Repeat.

__
Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA
Illiterate? Write for FREE help

On Mon, 13 Sep 2004 23:00:11 -0400, "Mike B" wrote:

tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female side
towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined
pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly
melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it.

Either that, or you could just convince yourself that you really wanted a
one-piece paddle in the first place, put some duct tape on the joint, and
marvel at how well it holds.

"Galen Hekhuis" wrote in message
.. .
On 12 Sep 2004 20:40:01 GMT, (William R. Watt)
wrote:


KAYAKFAN ) writes:
WD40

Soak ... Soak ... Soak ... Soak ...

tap, tap, tap

I heartily agree with the tap, tap, tapping. NOT pound, pound, pound.
Lots of gentle tapping, maybe even for hours. Oh yeah, wiggle, wiggle,
wiggle, too. Rinse. Repeat.

__
Galen Hekhuis NpD, JFR, GWA
Illiterate? Write for FREE help

"Mike B" wrote in message
...
tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female
side
towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined
pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly
melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it.


Why not use some technical skills? Connect one end to a tree by tossing a
clove hitch around the shaft down by the blade, then tie a loop with another
clove hitch on the other side of the paddle, rig the running end up with a
3-to-1 or 9-to-1 Z Drag, squirt some penetrating oil in there, and just haul
on the rope until it comes apart. I've seen rafts full-on postage-stamped
under waterfalls get dragged free with a 9-to-1, so I couldn't image some
little wimpy aluminum ions standing a chance. Once its under tension, I bet
a mild rap with a hammer would launch those two ends APART!

--riverman
who loves it when we talk this way.

One of the few "brute force" success I ever had was when i removed a
broken wooden blade from a carbon fiber oar shaft where the blade had
been GLUED into the shaft. Obviously no amount of WD-40 or twisting
was going to get that off, so I connected some spectra to the blade
and tied that to a tree. Tied another piece of spectra to the oar
shaft (needed to use a clove hitch) and connected it to the front tow
hook of my SUV. I made sure that the force I was about to put on the
blade/oars was aligned with how I wanted the blade to exit, put the
SUV in 4wd low lock (excessive, any car would do) and eased back on
the clutch. it worked surprisingly well, though I though for sure
something would break and lurch into the bumper of my car.

"riverman" wrote in message ...
"Mike B" wrote in message
...
tip of the week...... stand on end....the blade connected to the female
side
towards the ground. Smear petrolium jelly of choice around the joined
pieces. Use a heat gun, as hair dryer is not quite hot enough, the jelly
melts and while still hot, 2 person twist should do it.


Why not use some technical skills? Connect one end to a tree by tossing a
clove hitch around the shaft down by the blade, then tie a loop with another
clove hitch on the other side of the paddle, rig the running end up with a
3-to-1 or 9-to-1 Z Drag, squirt some penetrating oil in there, and just haul
on the rope until it comes apart. I've seen rafts full-on postage-stamped
under waterfalls get dragged free with a 9-to-1, so I couldn't image some
little wimpy aluminum ions standing a chance. Once its under tension, I bet
a mild rap with a hammer would launch those two ends APART!

--riverman
who loves it when we talk this way.

The Kern River wrote:

One of the few "brute force" success I ever had was when i removed a
broken wooden blade from a carbon fiber oar shaft where the blade had
been GLUED into the shaft. Obviously no amount of WD-40 or twisting
was going to get that off, so I connected some spectra to the blade
and tied that to a tree. Tied another piece of spectra to the oar
shaft (needed to use a clove hitch) and connected it to the front tow
hook of my SUV. I made sure that the force I was about to put on the
blade/oars was aligned with how I wanted the blade to exit, put the
SUV in 4wd low lock (excessive, any car would do) and eased back on
the clutch. it worked surprisingly well, though I though for sure
something would break and lurch into the bumper of my car.

Reminds me of the boy scout leader we had who used a similar approach.
He used his Landrover to pull out the cracked axe shaft from an axe
head. Tied one end of the thing to a tree, the other to his car, and
started to drive... pulling down the entire tree. Good thing it didn't
fall on his car. :-)

We used axes with a wedge in the shaft from then on.

--
Wilko van den Bergh wilko(a t)dse(d o t)nl
Eindhoven The Netherlands Europe
---Look at the possibilities, don't worry about the limitations.---
http://wilko.webzone.ru/