Have we ever discussed how big the boat is and where we are tying it up?
The line that is perfect for a 14' aluminum boat on a small lake is totally
inadequate for a 40' offshore boat in tidal water.
Most people should have a variety of lines for different circumstances. I like
a few 1/2 with snaps on one end for those quickie tie ups at the gas dock or
lunch dock but I have spliced lines set up for my dock.
I even have a couple heavy duty bungee cords for those times when the tide is
falling or rising and I want some kind of snubber, in addition to the regular
lines. They are also handy when you are rafting. Get the heaviest black rubber
ones you can find at a truck stop. Take off the hooks and attach snaps with a
shackle or ring.
You will be surprised how many times they will come in handy. Just remember it
isn't really a line, just a snubber.

On 30 Aug 2004 20:57:55 GMT, (Greg) wrote:

Have we ever discussed how big the boat is and where we are tying it up?

The original message in the thread mentioned a 34 foot 19,000 pound
boat.

The line that is perfect for a 14' aluminum boat on a small lake is totally
inadequate for a 40' offshore boat in tidal water.

Off course.

I even have a couple heavy duty bungee cords for those times when the tide is
falling or rising and I want some kind of snubber, in addition to the regular
lines. They are also handy when you are rafting. Get the heaviest black rubber
ones you can find at a truck stop. Take off the hooks and attach snaps with a
shackle or ring.

This is dangerous and unseamanlike advice in my opinion. Learn to use
spring lines to compensate for rising and falling tides.

Just remember it
isn't really a line, just a snubber.

Absolutely.

Gary wrote:
Is there a general rule of thumb for determining how strong your dock lines
should be?

Yes, The problem is that there are several rules of thumb and give
conflicting results. It also depends on what type of line you choose
(braid or laid).




I have a 34 foot boat that weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 19,000
lbs.

You should have 1/2" or 5/8" liness... personally I'd get 1/2" laid
(3-strand), check them often, and count on replacing them sooner, rather
than 5/8" left in place forever.

Get white dock lines, or at most white with some colored patern. They
are much more visible. Don't get the black ones, they look cool but they
are hard to see at night or in the rain. It's also more difficult to
evaluate them for chafe.

BTW I also put spliced loops in BOTH ends of all my dock lines, so that
when coming in to a dock, if a stranger wants to "help" I can hand him a
loop and not have to trust my boat to his unknown knot-tying skill.

Lines that are too thick are stronger, but they are also heavier and
more awkward to handle.

... I want to buy some dock lines to carry onboard for tying up at fuel
docks or the occasional restaurant etc. when I'm not in my slip.

Umm, yeah. It's a safety issue... you need decent lines. Decent ground
tackle too.

... I really
don't want to have to untie the lines at my slip every time I leave, since
I'd have to find just the right adjustment again every time I return.

This isn't particularly good reasoning. You should have a good set of
dock lines, you should check them often. Re-tying them is not so much
trouble, think what a PITA it would be if your boat broke free.

If you don't want to tie it up properly, then you should get a lift.


There are LOTS of sizes and strengths of line out there. What should I
really be looking at?

You need 6 dock lines. 2 can be shorties, 20' or so. These will be used
for bow & stern breast lines, which don't need to be too long. Then you
need 2 spring lines, which need to be *at least* the length + the beam
of the boat. You won't always use all that length, but the times when
you do need it, there is no substitute (other than expensive fiberglass
repair & increased insurance rates). Then you need 2 more emergency
lines the same as your spring lines, or one double length one + a third
shorty. If you tie up in a slip to two outer pilings, with crossed stern
lines, you'll need two intermediate length lines for the stern, but they
will be of less use elsewhere when tying up.

This is probably more than you want to know, but less than you really
need to know. Got a copy of Chapman's?

Fair Skies
Doug King

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..

Got a copy of Chapman's?

By law, every boat should should come with a laminated card tied to
someplace conspicuous, telling the new owner about the Chapman book. I have
a newer one, but while packing to move to my new house, I found the copy my
dad bought me in 1968. It's got a whole chapter on proper uniforms for
hanging out at the yacht club. What a stitch! :-)

On 8/26/2004 12:33 PM, Doug Kanter wrote:

"DSK" wrote in message
. ..


Got a copy of Chapman's?


By law, every boat should should come with a laminated card tied to
someplace conspicuous, telling the new owner about the Chapman book. I have
a newer one, but while packing to move to my new house, I found the copy my
dad bought me in 1968. It's got a whole chapter on proper uniforms for
hanging out at the yacht club. What a stitch! :-)


We've got a 1942 edition on board our Chris. Some of the stuff is pretty
funny (Poly-whatsit fenders? Everyone knows fenders are made out of
hemp!), but the basics don't really change.


--
~/Garth - 1966 Glastron V-142 Skiflite: "Blue-Boat"
"There is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much worth doing
as simply messing about in boats."
-Kenneth Grahame, The Wind in the Willows

On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 19:33:15 GMT, "Doug Kanter"
wrote:

"DSK" wrote in message
...

Got a copy of Chapman's?

By law, every boat should should come with a laminated card tied to
someplace conspicuous, telling the new owner about the Chapman book. I have
a newer one, but while packing to move to my new house, I found the copy my
dad bought me in 1968. It's got a whole chapter on proper uniforms for
hanging out at the yacht club. What a stitch! :-)

I have my father's Blue Jacket Manual from his hitch in the USCG in
1936.

It's very different from today's Blue Jacket Manual, although some
things are very similar.

Later,

Tom

I have a 1956 edition and a 1979 edition talk about a difference.



"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
"DSK" wrote in message
. ..

Got a copy of Chapman's?

By law, every boat should should come with a laminated card tied to
someplace conspicuous, telling the new owner about the Chapman book. I
have
a newer one, but while packing to move to my new house, I found the copy
my
dad bought me in 1968. It's got a whole chapter on proper uniforms for
hanging out at the yacht club. What a stitch! :-)

Did you obsess about your yacht club uniform until the later edition came
out? :-)

"Illinois Fisherman" wrote in message
...
I have a 1956 edition and a 1979 edition talk about a difference.



"Doug Kanter" wrote in message
...
"DSK" wrote in message
. ..

Got a copy of Chapman's?

By law, every boat should should come with a laminated card tied to
someplace conspicuous, telling the new owner about the Chapman book. I
have
a newer one, but while packing to move to my new house, I found the copy
my
dad bought me in 1968. It's got a whole chapter on proper uniforms for
hanging out at the yacht club. What a stitch! :-)

... I really
don't want to have to untie the lines at my slip every time I leave,
since
I'd have to find just the right adjustment again every time I return.

This isn't particularly good reasoning. You should have a good set of
dock lines, you should check them often. Re-tying them is not so much
trouble, think what a PITA it would be if your boat broke free.


Thanks for the advice Doug!

I guess what I was trying to say here and maybe didn't do it as clearly as I
should have is that I know that I need to adjust and inspect my lines often,
but I need additional lines so that I don't have to TAKE the lines from my
slip with me every time I go out. I'd rather leave them in place and adjust
/ inspect them as necessary, but not carry them with me. I'll buy the
necessary lines and carry them onboard, but I was just curious about the
size of line that I should buy. I have 5/8", 3 strand at the dock, but I
didn't buy that line. It came with the boat from the previous owner and
yes...it is in very good shape. I really just wondered what the consensus
was about that size of line...adequate, overkill, too small. It sounds like
it's adequate.

Thanks again for taking the time to write that long reply too Doug, and
thanks to everyone else who took the time to answer this question as well!

Gary

Gary wrote:
..... I have 5/8", 3 strand at the dock, but I
didn't buy that line. It came with the boat from the previous owner and
yes...it is in very good shape. I really just wondered what the consensus
was about that size of line...adequate, overkill, too small. It sounds like
it's adequate.

Sure, 5/8" 3-straid nylon (laid or twisted type rope) should have a
working strength of around 7,500#. The actual force needed to break it
will be much more (between 2X and 3X), but when a rope is subjected to
it's working load for a sustained period of time, it stretches
permamently and begins to lose strength. Dacron rope will be a little
weaker but won't stretch as much. Stretch is good in dock lines, and
anchor lines, because it does not put as much impulse load on the cleats
and it will give more warning before breaking.

Differences between braided & laid: braided is stronger, not as
stretchy, and much more resistant to abrasion. Braided lines will keep
their strength better when knotted or slightly chafed. They are more
complicated to splice. Braided lines have less tendency to kink and will
not unravel. I also think braided lines are easier to handle overall. It
may be that coming from a background in sailboats, I am more familiar
with braided lines and more comfortable with them. We have several
3-strand dock lines though.


Thanks again for taking the time to write that long reply too Doug, and
thanks to everyone else who took the time to answer this question as well!

You're welcome, this was a nice break from all the politics.

Fair Skies
Doug King