Lloyd should wipe down the mounting spots with rubbing alcohol first.

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
Meinert,

No, I never have. The only time I have seen the type I use come off has
been when the surface was unsound or not clean.

And, I don't think I have ever done anything in a dry environment.

Matt Colie

Meindert Sprang wrote:
"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


Did you even see them fall off in a dry environment?
I doubt if they would hold.

Meindert

"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter
wrote:

Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Why not drill? Fill the holes with a little RTV or silicone seal when
you put the screws in. :)

.....and use small bolts with acorn nuts, so you don't have sharp bolt ends
on either side. West Marine (and plenty of others) carry this hardware in
stainless.

Mac wrote:
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:


Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd


I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or

2) glue some kind of aluminum guides or clamps in place, possibly with
epoxy, then run the flexible conduit tubing through the guides.

It seems to me like a contact cement is a good choice because it would be
hard to clamp the harness in place long enough for a slow-curing adhesive.
If you can clamp it in place, then go ahead and use the 5200 recommended
by another poster.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do.

--Mac


On my 14 foot aluminum fishing boat I ran the front running light wire
in a aluminum tubing, mounting the tubing to the side just below the
topsides by about two inches. Bending it to fit tightagainst the side. I
used a tubing clamps that required drilling a whole in the aluminum. But
the wholes are far above the waterline.

The battery is in the back near the stern light and a little tubing was
used there. Between the two is a switch that will them to both be on or
just the stern light.

Works and look nice, but does not run down the center like you are
hopeing to do.

Capt Jack R..

Mac wrote:

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:


Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd


I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or

Sounds like a job for GOOP to me - but get the Marine variety for extra
UV resistance.

2) glue some kind of aluminum guides or clamps in place, possibly with
epoxy, then run the flexible conduit tubing through the guides.

It seems to me like a contact cement is a good choice because it would be
hard to clamp the harness in place long enough for a slow-curing adhesive.
If you can clamp it in place, then go ahead and use the 5200 recommended
by another poster.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do.

--Mac

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:48:39 +0200, Meindert Sprang wrote:

"Mac" wrote in message
...

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or

Be aware that many contact cements are not waterproof

Meindert

GOOP is. I once used it to repair a plastic piece of SCUBA gear and it
held up very well to repeated submersion in salt water.

I know most contact cements are not water soluble after they cure. But I
can easily believe that many of them would not hold up well to salt water.
Probably that is what you mean.

--Mac

On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 00:33:55 -0400, Sunny wrote:



Mac wrote:

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:


Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd


I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or

Sounds like a job for GOOP to me - but get the Marine variety for extra
UV resistance.

[snip]

I didn't know there was a marine variety. Cool.

--Mac

Mac wrote:
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 00:33:55 -0400, Sunny wrote:



Mac wrote:


On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:



Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd


I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or

Sounds like a job for GOOP to me - but get the Marine variety for extra
UV resistance.


[snip]

I didn't know there was a marine variety. Cool.

The plastic windshield on my work sled (snowmobile used for hauling
firewood etc. in winter) got shattered about 10 years ago. Automotive
GOOP fixed it, but it gets hard and brittle and had to be replaced every
other year. About 3 years ago I saw Marine GOOP for the first time and
tried it - no signs I'll need to replace it anytime soon.

Sunny

(If you can't fix it with GOOP or duct tape, you need a new one)

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:02:58 -0400, Matt Colie wrote:

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


First, thanks everyone for all the ideas!

I've seen and used these pads, and must say I AM impressed at how well
they stick. BUT, this is a 25-yr-old aluminum hull, painted, wet, dirty, I
just don't think they'd hold. And yes, I HAVE seen them fall off, esp. in
a boat.

OTOH, I'm not keen on an ugly glob of 5200 holding it either. But the
pad-with-epoxy might work...

Lloyd

How about a sticky pad, but stuck on with 5200?? RichG

--
RichG manager, Carolina Skiff Owners Group on MSN
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:02:58 -0400, Matt Colie wrote:

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


First, thanks everyone for all the ideas!

I've seen and used these pads, and must say I AM impressed at how well
they stick. BUT, this is a 25-yr-old aluminum hull, painted, wet, dirty, I
just don't think they'd hold. And yes, I HAVE seen them fall off, esp. in
a boat.

OTOH, I'm not keen on an ugly glob of 5200 holding it either. But the
pad-with-epoxy might work...

Lloyd

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 20:27:30 GMT, "RichG"
wrote:

How about a sticky pad, but stuck on with 5200?? RichG

Oh hell, go with the tachyon beam out the deflector dish - seems to
work for everything else. :)

Later,

Tom