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Lloyd Sumpter August 25th 04 03:58 AM

Attaching wire-harness to alum boat
 
Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd

RichG August 25th 04 04:17 AM

I'd use 3M5200 if you do not EVER want to remove it, and 3M4200 if you might
want to remove it in the future. RichG
--
RichG manager, Carolina Skiff Owners Group on MSN
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd




Matt Colie August 25th 04 05:02 AM

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?

If no, go to a local electrical supplier and tell the gut at the counter
you want some cable/wire ties and the things to stick them up. He will
know what you want and may have more than one size to choose from.

Matt Colie www.yachtek.com

Lloyd Sumpter wrote:
Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd



Mac August 25th 04 05:21 AM

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:

Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd


I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or

2) glue some kind of aluminum guides or clamps in place, possibly with
epoxy, then run the flexible conduit tubing through the guides.

It seems to me like a contact cement is a good choice because it would be
hard to clamp the harness in place long enough for a slow-curing adhesive.
If you can clamp it in place, then go ahead and use the 5200 recommended
by another poster.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do.

--Mac


Meindert Sprang August 25th 04 06:39 AM

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


Did you even see them fall off in a dry environment?
I doubt if they would hold.

Meindert



Meindert Sprang August 25th 04 06:48 AM

"Mac" wrote in message
...

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or


Be aware that many contact cements are not waterproof

Meindert



Short Wave Sportfishing August 25th 04 11:40 AM

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter
wrote:

Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...


Why not drill? Fill the holes with a little RTV or silicone seal when
you put the screws in. :)

I assume you are putting the wires through a piece of plastic tubing
and want to secure that. to the hull.

As somebody else suggested, 3M 5200 if you don't ever want to move it
again, 3M 4200 if you do. Just clean the spots with a little steel
wool before applying the 3M goop.

Later,

Tom


Later,

Tom

Brian Whatcott August 25th 04 12:57 PM

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter
wrote:

Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd


Adhesive goo.

Matt Colie August 25th 04 01:28 PM

Meinert,

No, I never have. The only time I have seen the type I use come off has
been when the surface was unsound or not clean.

And, I don't think I have ever done anything in a dry environment.

Matt Colie

Meindert Sprang wrote:
"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?



Did you even see them fall off in a dry environment?
I doubt if they would hold.

Meindert




Rusty O August 25th 04 06:16 PM

The cable tie pads with the foam tape will stick a whole lot better if you
clean the attachment surface with acetone just before applying. They also
make cable tie pads designed to mount with epoxy. (The epoxy comes with the
pads)

Rusty O



Doug Kanter August 25th 04 09:00 PM

Lloyd should wipe down the mounting spots with rubbing alcohol first.

"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...
Meinert,

No, I never have. The only time I have seen the type I use come off has
been when the surface was unsound or not clean.

And, I don't think I have ever done anything in a dry environment.

Matt Colie

Meindert Sprang wrote:
"Matt Colie" wrote in message
...

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?



Did you even see them fall off in a dry environment?
I doubt if they would hold.

Meindert






Doug Kanter August 25th 04 09:02 PM


"Short Wave Sportfishing" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter
wrote:

Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...


Why not drill? Fill the holes with a little RTV or silicone seal when
you put the screws in. :)


.....and use small bolts with acorn nuts, so you don't have sharp bolt ends
on either side. West Marine (and plenty of others) carry this hardware in
stainless.



Jack Redington August 26th 04 02:33 AM

Mac wrote:
On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:


Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd



I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or

2) glue some kind of aluminum guides or clamps in place, possibly with
epoxy, then run the flexible conduit tubing through the guides.

It seems to me like a contact cement is a good choice because it would be
hard to clamp the harness in place long enough for a slow-curing adhesive.
If you can clamp it in place, then go ahead and use the 5200 recommended
by another poster.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do.

--Mac


On my 14 foot aluminum fishing boat I ran the front running light wire
in a aluminum tubing, mounting the tubing to the side just below the
topsides by about two inches. Bending it to fit tightagainst the side. I
used a tubing clamps that required drilling a whole in the aluminum. But
the wholes are far above the waterline.

The battery is in the back near the stern light and a little tubing was
used there. Between the two is a switch that will them to both be on or
just the stern light.

Works and look nice, but does not run down the center like you are
hopeing to do.

Capt Jack R..

Sunny August 26th 04 05:33 AM



Mac wrote:

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:


Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd



I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or


Sounds like a job for GOOP to me - but get the Marine variety for extra
UV resistance.

2) glue some kind of aluminum guides or clamps in place, possibly with
epoxy, then run the flexible conduit tubing through the guides.

It seems to me like a contact cement is a good choice because it would be
hard to clamp the harness in place long enough for a slow-curing adhesive.
If you can clamp it in place, then go ahead and use the 5200 recommended
by another poster.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you are trying to do.

--Mac


Mac August 26th 04 06:06 AM

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 07:48:39 +0200, Meindert Sprang wrote:

"Mac" wrote in message
...

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or


Be aware that many contact cements are not waterproof

Meindert


GOOP is. I once used it to repair a plastic piece of SCUBA gear and it
held up very well to repeated submersion in salt water.

I know most contact cements are not water soluble after they cure. But I
can easily believe that many of them would not hold up well to salt water.
Probably that is what you mean.

--Mac


Mac August 26th 04 06:07 AM

On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 00:33:55 -0400, Sunny wrote:



Mac wrote:

On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:


Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd



I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or


Sounds like a job for GOOP to me - but get the Marine variety for extra
UV resistance.


[snip]

I didn't know there was a marine variety. Cool.

--Mac


Triffid August 27th 04 12:04 AM



Mac wrote:
On Thu, 26 Aug 2004 00:33:55 -0400, Sunny wrote:



Mac wrote:


On Tue, 24 Aug 2004 19:58:23 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:



Hi,

I'm putting running lights in my 12ft aluminum skiff. I'm running the
wires through a harness and want to run it down the inside chine (don't
want it down the keel, and the gunwale is outside so can't really do it
there). How do I attach the plastic harness to the aluminum? I obviously
don't want to drill holes...

Lloyd


I'm not sure I understand what you're talking about 100%. But if I wanted
to bond flexible plastic tubing to aluminum, which is what I think you are
doing, I would probably do one of two things:

1) use contact cement (possibly automotive GOOP, which is available in
any big hardware store in the US) or


Sounds like a job for GOOP to me - but get the Marine variety for extra
UV resistance.



[snip]

I didn't know there was a marine variety. Cool.


The plastic windshield on my work sled (snowmobile used for hauling
firewood etc. in winter) got shattered about 10 years ago. Automotive
GOOP fixed it, but it gets hard and brittle and had to be replaced every
other year. About 3 years ago I saw Marine GOOP for the first time and
tried it - no signs I'll need to replace it anytime soon.

Sunny

(If you can't fix it with GOOP or duct tape, you need a new one)

Lloyd Sumpter August 28th 04 06:08 PM

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:02:58 -0400, Matt Colie wrote:

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


First, thanks everyone for all the ideas!

I've seen and used these pads, and must say I AM impressed at how well
they stick. BUT, this is a 25-yr-old aluminum hull, painted, wet, dirty, I
just don't think they'd hold. And yes, I HAVE seen them fall off, esp. in
a boat.

OTOH, I'm not keen on an ugly glob of 5200 holding it either. But the
pad-with-epoxy might work...

Lloyd


RichG August 28th 04 09:27 PM

How about a sticky pad, but stuck on with 5200?? RichG

--
RichG manager, Carolina Skiff Owners Group on MSN
http://groups.msn.com/CarolinaSkiffOwners

"Lloyd Sumpter" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:02:58 -0400, Matt Colie wrote:

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


First, thanks everyone for all the ideas!

I've seen and used these pads, and must say I AM impressed at how well
they stick. BUT, this is a 25-yr-old aluminum hull, painted, wet, dirty, I
just don't think they'd hold. And yes, I HAVE seen them fall off, esp. in
a boat.

OTOH, I'm not keen on an ugly glob of 5200 holding it either. But the
pad-with-epoxy might work...

Lloyd




Short Wave Sportfishing August 28th 04 10:53 PM

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 20:27:30 GMT, "RichG"
wrote:

How about a sticky pad, but stuck on with 5200?? RichG


Oh hell, go with the tachyon beam out the deflector dish - seems to
work for everything else. :)

Later,

Tom

Mac August 29th 04 01:56 AM

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 10:08:30 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:

On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:02:58 -0400, Matt Colie wrote:

Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


First, thanks everyone for all the ideas!

I've seen and used these pads, and must say I AM impressed at how well
they stick. BUT, this is a 25-yr-old aluminum hull, painted, wet, dirty, I
just don't think they'd hold. And yes, I HAVE seen them fall off, esp. in
a boat.

OTOH, I'm not keen on an ugly glob of 5200 holding it either. But the
pad-with-epoxy might work...

Lloyd


Just make sure you clean the surface where the epoxy goes. Use
acetone or alcohol or something, then maybe sand it a bit. Dirt or a thin
film of grease can defeat any adhesive. ;-)

--Mac



Terry Spragg August 30th 04 05:21 PM

Mac wrote:

On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 10:08:30 -0700, Lloyd Sumpter wrote:


On Wed, 25 Aug 2004 00:02:58 -0400, Matt Colie wrote:


Lloyd,

Didn't you every see sticky squares and wire ties?


First, thanks everyone for all the ideas!

I've seen and used these pads, and must say I AM impressed at how well
they stick. BUT, this is a 25-yr-old aluminum hull, painted, wet, dirty, I
just don't think they'd hold. And yes, I HAVE seen them fall off, esp. in
a boat.

OTOH, I'm not keen on an ugly glob of 5200 holding it either. But the
pad-with-epoxy might work...

Lloyd



Just make sure you clean the surface where the epoxy goes. Use
acetone or alcohol or something, then maybe sand it a bit. Dirt or a thin
film of grease can defeat any adhesive. ;-)

--Mac


My Dad used to hold fittings in place in model airplanes using micro
balloons and crazy glue. One drop on a pea sized wad would almost
immediately solidify the lump. He would sculpt the shape before
gluing, using a breath of humid exhalations to hold the shape
temporarily until he dabbed the mass with a large economy size
applicator.

Perhaps you could hold the dust with a form made from masking tape?

Clean, de-wax, (acetone) and rough sand the surface to be bonded. A
little aluminum weld style epoxy might also do.



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