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Time for a boating topic. Des Moines (WA) Marina
Jeez. Boating topics are really scarce.
Here's an item about one of our local marinas. Some people might enjoy the description of the place, but there's a charming story about an old man and a tugboat (about 1/3 of the way through) that might have more universal appeal. (no copyright laws violated.) ******************** Des Moines Marina Sometimes what you see is less important than the way in which you see it. Downtown Des Moines, Washington is seldom listed among the leading resort communities of Puget Sound. The row of uninspired commercial buildings strung along Marine View Drive is an eclectic mix of structures thrown up over several decades, low to the ground and without an apparent unifying theme. It's undoubtedly a very pleasant place to live, but not exactly a high profile tourist destination. While there may not be an endless number of compelling diversions ashore, Des Moines has a surprising number of attributes that create a recommended option for a late summer or autumn weekend cruise. The Des Moines Marina is an excellent facility, conveniently located in East Passage within easy cruising distance of Seattle, Port Orchard, Edmonds, Tacoma, Gig Harbor, and other major population centers of the central Sound. The marina opened in 1970 to provide permanent moorage for 840 boats. Most of the slips are covered. There is a waiting list for permanent moorage, with relatively short waits for the numerous small slips, and all but eternal waits for the rarely available longest. Des Moines Marina is the hub of the boating community in the Sea Tac region. Scores of trailer boaters launch here any weekend that the fish are biting, and there are 105 sheds for "kicker boats" up to 20-feet in length. The entrance channel begins just south of the extremely extended fishing pier, (near 47.24.08 N and 122.20.06 W). Visiting boats will follow the channel around the end of the breakwater. There is a large float for temporary moorage off the port side, and then just beyond a shoreside bulkhead is the 1500-foot guest dock. Moorage is on a first come, first serve, basis and designed to accommodate vessels up to 65-feet. Boaters should check in with the fuel dock upon arrival and receive a slip assignment. In 2004, guest moorage for a 36-40 foot boat is priced at $24, plus a $3 charge for shorepower. Members of yacht clubs with reciprocal privileges may find moorage at the Des Moines Yacht Club dock, at the southern end of the main marina fairway. CSR Marina runs a boatyard here to undertake major repairs, and Southpaw Marine is only a block away to handle outboard and mechanical issues. Des Moines is the perfect location for a lazy afternoon nap in a fold-up lounge on the flybridge or boat deck. When the tide is high enough to peer over the top of the breakwater, the Point Robinson light on Maury Island can be seen across East Passage. When the air is clean enough and the weather is clear, the craggy Olympic Range defines the lower margin of the distant sky. In some communities, the guest dock is a busy public promenade and fishing pier- but not so in Des Moines. A siesta here will likely be interrupted only by the fleeting shadows of wheeling gulls, aloft in crisp briny air fragrant with the spices of the sea. There is an interesting mix of friendly people at the Marina. Perhaps because there are no tourist shops, ferry landings, or farmer's markets nearby, most of the people you see or meet around the marina have an interest in boats. They are a salty, gregarious bunch- typically more practical than pretentious. If one strolls along the seawall, one will spy a humble little barge at the base of a gangway. A fading wooden sign on the barge reads "Classic Yachts," and a small group of easy-going yacht brokers aboard it represent previously owned powerboats. We ran into yacht broker Stan Wilkes, who related a story that seems to perfectly reflect the depth of the genuine maritime tradition at the marina. "If you've got a minute," said Stan; "I'd like to show you our little tug boat." We walked about two-thirds of the way out a covered permanent moorage float, and arrived at a small, clinker-built wooden tug in outstanding condition. We asked, "Who built the boat?" "The boat was hand made by an elderly gentleman," said Stan. "He enjoyed the boat for some years while he lived nearby in the Wesley Gardens retirement community. As he got older, the boat became more than he could care for and he was slowly losing his eyesight." "One day," continued Stan, "the gentleman called on me at the brokerage barge to discuss his little tug. He had decided he could no longer maintain it." As the conversation between Stan and the original owner of the boat progressed, something must have passed between them. "We talked for a while," related Stan, "and the old gentleman eventually asked me if I would be willing to take good care of his boat. I said I would, and then he pulled the title out of his pocket and gave it to me as a gift! I was shocked. He wasn't interested in any money, just wanted to know that somebody was going to take care of his boat. That was a Friday or a Saturday, and the following Wednesday he passed away. I've been keeping the boat up ever since, just as he wanted. We have had some fun changing the paint colors a few times, but the condition you find her in today is pretty indicative of the way the old fellow took care of her from the day she was built." If lounging around the boat or jawing with an interesting yacht broker seem less alluring than an interesting walk, despair not. There's a wonderful stroll available in a public park, immediately north of the marina. Des Moines creek flows through the park before disappearing into the saltchuck of East Passage. For thousands of years, Native Americans made a permanent camp where the abundant supply of fresh water, access to fishing and seal hunting or whaling, a salt marsh abundant with waterfowl, and a long gravel beach teeming with shellfish allowed a life of relative luxury. The stable location and plentiful larders afforded the original inhabitants an opportunity to create a culture rich in spirit and tradition- a culture that was swept aside by the arrival of settlers from Des Moines, Iowa, in the mid 1800's. When the native village was gone, a sawmill appeared in its place and the surrounding hills were stripped of the old growth cedars, hemlock, and Douglas fir. All too soon the edge of the harvestable forest retreated to the point where it became cheaper to build another mill than to transport the timber, and the sawmill passed into history as well. In the early 1930's, the Swedish Covenant Church converted the old mill site into a summer bible study camp. Well "out of town" when established, the summer camp must have seemed a magical retreat for city kids without regular access to a wading creek, a wild and scenic beach, and a wooded hillside. The camp operated here until 1986, and many of the original buildings remain. There is often a bald eagle perched high in the naked skeleton of a dead madrona, just atop the hill to the north. He posed majestically for a long-distance photo during our recent visit to the park. There are several good options for dining ashore. Anthony's has a HomePort Restaurant at most major marinas in the Puget Sound area, including Des Moines. Anthony's is always a safe choice, with typically reliable service and a good variety of decent but somewhat predictable fare. The Red Robin chain operates a restaurant just uptown at the south end of the marina, and there are Chinese, Mexican, Pizza, and hot dog eateries within a block or two of the marina, along the downtown strip. My personal favorite is Breakers, near the guest dock at the north end of the marina. If you want a unique seaside dining experience, there's no need to take a step beyond the dark red door with the bronze portlight that will take you into Breakers. The decor is a mixture of 1960's roadside diner and hokey waterfront bar, but a family atmosphere prevails. It's fun to eat at Breakers. For some reason I always seem to have the fish and chips here. During my last visit to Breakers, I toyed with the idea of trying something else- if only for the sake of variety. As luck would have it, the cook was available nearby and I inquired, "Excuse me, but I can't help noticing your apron, so I assume you must be the cook?" "Yes, I am." "Well, then, let me ask what, in your opinion, is absolutely the finest thing on the menu here?" Without a split second's hesitation he replied, "The halibut and chips. We use prime chunks of extremely fresh halibut. There are some other good items on the menu, too, but we might have the best halibut and chips on the sound." It was halibut and chips, once again. The fish is deep-fried, but not greasy. The lightly breaded crust is as thin and crispy as a paper shell. I've paid $25 for baked halibut entrees that are less succulent than the $8 portion of fish served with chips at Breakers. The fries are old-fashioned, genuine potato fries done to burnished gold and just this side of crunchy. With a splash of ketchup and malt vinegar, you'll not find better fish and chips in Piccadilly Circus or Trafalgar Square. One could justify a cruise to Des Moines for the fish and chips at Breakers alone- they just might be the best on the sound. Boaters who perceive images of traffic stalled on Pacific Highway South or the back-to-the-future gaggle of shops trailing along Marine View Drive when somebody mentions "Des Moines" should consider arriving at this charming destination by water. Sometimes what you see is less significant than the way in which you see it. |
#2
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"Gould 0738" wrote in message ... Jeez. Boating topics are really scarce. Here's an item about one of our local marinas. Some people might enjoy the description of the place, but there's a charming story about an old man and a tugboat (about 1/3 of the way through) that might have more universal appeal. (no copyright laws violated.) ******************** Des Moines Marina Sometimes what you see is less important than the way in which you see it. Downtown Des Moines, Washington is seldom listed among the leading resort communities of Puget Sound. The row of uninspired commercial buildings strung along Marine View Drive is an eclectic mix of structures thrown up over several decades, low to the ground and without an apparent unifying theme. It's undoubtedly a very pleasant place to live, but not exactly a high profile tourist destination. While there may not be an endless number of compelling diversions ashore, Des Moines has a surprising number of attributes that create a recommended option for a late summer or autumn weekend cruise. The Des Moines Marina is an excellent facility, conveniently located in East Passage within easy cruising distance of Seattle, Port Orchard, Edmonds, Tacoma, Gig Harbor, and other major population centers of the central Sound. The marina opened in 1970 to provide permanent moorage for 840 boats. Most of the slips are covered. There is a waiting list for permanent moorage, with relatively short waits for the numerous small slips, and all but eternal waits for the rarely available longest. Des Moines Marina is the hub of the boating community in the Sea Tac region. Scores of trailer boaters launch here any weekend that the fish are biting, and there are 105 sheds for "kicker boats" up to 20-feet in length. The entrance channel begins just south of the extremely extended fishing pier, (near 47.24.08 N and 122.20.06 W). Visiting boats will follow the channel around the end of the breakwater. There is a large float for temporary moorage off the port side, and then just beyond a shoreside bulkhead is the 1500-foot guest dock. Moorage is on a first come, first serve, basis and designed to accommodate vessels up to 65-feet. Boaters should check in with the fuel dock upon arrival and receive a slip assignment. In 2004, guest moorage for a 36-40 foot boat is priced at $24, plus a $3 charge for shorepower. Members of yacht clubs with reciprocal privileges may find moorage at the Des Moines Yacht Club dock, at the southern end of the main marina fairway. CSR Marina runs a boatyard here to undertake major repairs, and Southpaw Marine is only a block away to handle outboard and mechanical issues. Des Moines is the perfect location for a lazy afternoon nap in a fold-up lounge on the flybridge or boat deck. When the tide is high enough to peer over the top of the breakwater, the Point Robinson light on Maury Island can be seen across East Passage. When the air is clean enough and the weather is clear, the craggy Olympic Range defines the lower margin of the distant sky. In some communities, the guest dock is a busy public promenade and fishing pier- but not so in Des Moines. A siesta here will likely be interrupted only by the fleeting shadows of wheeling gulls, aloft in crisp briny air fragrant with the spices of the sea. There is an interesting mix of friendly people at the Marina. Perhaps because there are no tourist shops, ferry landings, or farmer's markets nearby, most of the people you see or meet around the marina have an interest in boats. They are a salty, gregarious bunch- typically more practical than pretentious. If one strolls along the seawall, one will spy a humble little barge at the base of a gangway. A fading wooden sign on the barge reads "Classic Yachts," and a small group of easy-going yacht brokers aboard it represent previously owned powerboats. We ran into yacht broker Stan Wilkes, who related a story that seems to perfectly reflect the depth of the genuine maritime tradition at the marina. "If you've got a minute," said Stan; "I'd like to show you our little tug boat." We walked about two-thirds of the way out a covered permanent moorage float, and arrived at a small, clinker-built wooden tug in outstanding condition. We asked, "Who built the boat?" "The boat was hand made by an elderly gentleman," said Stan. "He enjoyed the boat for some years while he lived nearby in the Wesley Gardens retirement community. As he got older, the boat became more than he could care for and he was slowly losing his eyesight." "One day," continued Stan, "the gentleman called on me at the brokerage barge to discuss his little tug. He had decided he could no longer maintain it." As the conversation between Stan and the original owner of the boat progressed, something must have passed between them. "We talked for a while," related Stan, "and the old gentleman eventually asked me if I would be willing to take good care of his boat. I said I would, and then he pulled the title out of his pocket and gave it to me as a gift! I was shocked. He wasn't interested in any money, just wanted to know that somebody was going to take care of his boat. That was a Friday or a Saturday, and the following Wednesday he passed away. I've been keeping the boat up ever since, just as he wanted. We have had some fun changing the paint colors a few times, but the condition you find her in today is pretty indicative of the way the old fellow took care of her from the day she was built." If lounging around the boat or jawing with an interesting yacht broker seem less alluring than an interesting walk, despair not. There's a wonderful stroll available in a public park, immediately north of the marina. Des Moines creek flows through the park before disappearing into the saltchuck of East Passage. For thousands of years, Native Americans made a permanent camp where the abundant supply of fresh water, access to fishing and seal hunting or whaling, a salt marsh abundant with waterfowl, and a long gravel beach teeming with shellfish allowed a life of relative luxury. The stable location and plentiful larders afforded the original inhabitants an opportunity to create a culture rich in spirit and tradition- a culture that was swept aside by the arrival of settlers from Des Moines, Iowa, in the mid 1800's. When the native village was gone, a sawmill appeared in its place and the surrounding hills were stripped of the old growth cedars, hemlock, and Douglas fir. All too soon the edge of the harvestable forest retreated to the point where it became cheaper to build another mill than to transport the timber, and the sawmill passed into history as well. In the early 1930's, the Swedish Covenant Church converted the old mill site into a summer bible study camp. Well "out of town" when established, the summer camp must have seemed a magical retreat for city kids without regular access to a wading creek, a wild and scenic beach, and a wooded hillside. The camp operated here until 1986, and many of the original buildings remain. There is often a bald eagle perched high in the naked skeleton of a dead madrona, just atop the hill to the north. He posed majestically for a long-distance photo during our recent visit to the park. There are several good options for dining ashore. Anthony's has a HomePort Restaurant at most major marinas in the Puget Sound area, including Des Moines. Anthony's is always a safe choice, with typically reliable service and a good variety of decent but somewhat predictable fare. The Red Robin chain operates a restaurant just uptown at the south end of the marina, and there are Chinese, Mexican, Pizza, and hot dog eateries within a block or two of the marina, along the downtown strip. My personal favorite is Breakers, near the guest dock at the north end of the marina. If you want a unique seaside dining experience, there's no need to take a step beyond the dark red door with the bronze portlight that will take you into Breakers. The decor is a mixture of 1960's roadside diner and hokey waterfront bar, but a family atmosphere prevails. It's fun to eat at Breakers. For some reason I always seem to have the fish and chips here. During my last visit to Breakers, I toyed with the idea of trying something else- if only for the sake of variety. As luck would have it, the cook was available nearby and I inquired, "Excuse me, but I can't help noticing your apron, so I assume you must be the cook?" "Yes, I am." "Well, then, let me ask what, in your opinion, is absolutely the finest thing on the menu here?" Without a split second's hesitation he replied, "The halibut and chips. We use prime chunks of extremely fresh halibut. There are some other good items on the menu, too, but we might have the best halibut and chips on the sound." It was halibut and chips, once again. The fish is deep-fried, but not greasy. The lightly breaded crust is as thin and crispy as a paper shell. I've paid $25 for baked halibut entrees that are less succulent than the $8 portion of fish served with chips at Breakers. The fries are old-fashioned, genuine potato fries done to burnished gold and just this side of crunchy. With a splash of ketchup and malt vinegar, you'll not find better fish and chips in Piccadilly Circus or Trafalgar Square. One could justify a cruise to Des Moines for the fish and chips at Breakers alone- they just might be the best on the sound. Boaters who perceive images of traffic stalled on Pacific Highway South or the back-to-the-future gaggle of shops trailing along Marine View Drive when somebody mentions "Des Moines" should consider arriving at this charming destination by water. Sometimes what you see is less significant than the way in which you see it. You will see weeping and smell the gas. |
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