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On Tue, 14 Jul 2020 11:14:50 -0400, John wrote:

On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 19:46:40 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 20:26:36 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

MOn 7/12/20 3:28 AM,
wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 00:11:59 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 23:24:37 -0400,
wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 15:13:11 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 16:39:58 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

A trick you may not know about.
CRC 6-56 will remove all traces of silicone adhesive from your hands. Spray
your hands with the stuff. Rub it in till the silicone dissolves. Then wet
your hands and rub in again. Wipe off with paper towels then use soap and
water to remove what's left. This stuff is amazing. I've been using it for
years but I didn't know what it could do to uncured silicone. West Marine
will have it in stock.

===

That is a good tip because silicone is notoriously difficult to
remove. We use a fair amout of 3M5200 for things like sealing window
glass. That's tough stuff also but WD40 cleans it right up from just
about anything as long as it hasn't cured yet.

I just tried 5200 to fix a cracked skimmer on the pool.
I have done it with epoxy twice and it cracks again Something is
moving. I hope the 5200 is flexible enough to hold until I get time to
cut that thing out and put in a new one, along with finding out what
is moving. My suspicion is the backfill is bad and the leak only makes
it worse. I know I will be digging up that pretty zoysia grass and it
is a shame. This is the first time I was able to make the grass there
decent.

===

We've been in a running battle with our pool skimmer for as long as
we've owned the house, 17 years. Our pool guy says he can replace it
for about $1500 and I'm almost ready to do that. Meanwhile he patches
it about once a year with some kind of underwater epoxy. I'll be
interested to hear how your 5200 repair works out.

Yup that is me. I think the problem is the piping below is subsiding
and pulling the skimmer down. That is the weakest point. Next time it
will be set in lean grout mix, tied to the shell. If I ever have to
cut it out again I have air tools.
I am hoping I can hold on until I am ready for a project. The good
news is it is only about a cubic foot of concrete I need to cut out
but I will kill my grass. I just hope I can cut out the sod and put it
back. I figured out if I can keep the pump running I can suck that
skimmer line water level below the part I have to cut out by playing
with the valves and not draining 2-3 feet out of the pool.
I was doing well pump things today.
The joys of home ownership ;-)

Here's what you do. Drain the pool to level with the bottom of the skimmer
then shut off the return line. Peel the skimmer from the pool and cut the
pipe away from the skimmer with a hole saw. Then cut off a foot or more of
the pvc pipe and replace it with good quality flexable pipe. I'm thinking
windshield adhesive might be a good choice to glue the new skimmer to the
pool. Ask Fat Harry how to finish off the big hole you had to make in the
pool deck. Good luck and post lots of pictures of the project


Draining the pool 2+ feet is what I am trying to avoid. I seem to be
able to hold the water back with the pump as long as the pool level is
below the skimmer throat (easy to do if the skimmer is leaking) ;-)

I am OK with the concrete part since that patch of grass goes right up
to a 2' wide part of deck. As I said, I doubt I am cutting out a cubic
foot of concrete.
I was thinking about going back with Spa Flex to have a little more
"give" in the system. I am hoping this patch will last a while to so I
can take my time planning the repair. The hardest part may be the
digging with minimal damage to my grass.


You should be able to trim off a layer of sod and put it back when finished.
Just keep it watered while it's set aside.


That is what I am hoping. I just have terrible luck with grass and
this is doing so well.
I let the 5200 cure for 3 days and I just turned the auto fill back
on. I will know in a couple days how well it worked. I am still
screwing with well pumps so I don't want another project right now.
  #12   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2020
Posts: 58
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On 7/14/20 9:14 AM, John wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 19:46:40 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 20:26:36 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

MOn 7/12/20 3:28 AM,
wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 00:11:59 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 23:24:37 -0400,
wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 15:13:11 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 16:39:58 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

A trick you may not know about.
CRC 6-56 will remove all traces of silicone adhesive from your hands. Spray
your hands with the stuff. Rub it in till the silicone dissolves. Then wet
your hands and rub in again. Wipe off with paper towels then use soap and
water to remove what's left. This stuff is amazing. I've been using it for
years but I didn't know what it could do to uncured silicone. West Marine
will have it in stock.

===

That is a good tip because silicone is notoriously difficult to
remove. We use a fair amout of 3M5200 for things like sealing window
glass. That's tough stuff also but WD40 cleans it right up from just
about anything as long as it hasn't cured yet.

I just tried 5200 to fix a cracked skimmer on the pool.
I have done it with epoxy twice and it cracks again Something is
moving. I hope the 5200 is flexible enough to hold until I get time to
cut that thing out and put in a new one, along with finding out what
is moving. My suspicion is the backfill is bad and the leak only makes
it worse. I know I will be digging up that pretty zoysia grass and it
is a shame. This is the first time I was able to make the grass there
decent.

===

We've been in a running battle with our pool skimmer for as long as
we've owned the house, 17 years. Our pool guy says he can replace it
for about $1500 and I'm almost ready to do that. Meanwhile he patches
it about once a year with some kind of underwater epoxy. I'll be
interested to hear how your 5200 repair works out.

Yup that is me. I think the problem is the piping below is subsiding
and pulling the skimmer down. That is the weakest point. Next time it
will be set in lean grout mix, tied to the shell. If I ever have to
cut it out again I have air tools.
I am hoping I can hold on until I am ready for a project. The good
news is it is only about a cubic foot of concrete I need to cut out
but I will kill my grass. I just hope I can cut out the sod and put it
back. I figured out if I can keep the pump running I can suck that
skimmer line water level below the part I have to cut out by playing
with the valves and not draining 2-3 feet out of the pool.
I was doing well pump things today.
The joys of home ownership ;-)

Here's what you do. Drain the pool to level with the bottom of the skimmer
then shut off the return line. Peel the skimmer from the pool and cut the
pipe away from the skimmer with a hole saw. Then cut off a foot or more of
the pvc pipe and replace it with good quality flexable pipe. I'm thinking
windshield adhesive might be a good choice to glue the new skimmer to the
pool. Ask Fat Harry how to finish off the big hole you had to make in the
pool deck. Good luck and post lots of pictures of the project


Draining the pool 2+ feet is what I am trying to avoid. I seem to be
able to hold the water back with the pump as long as the pool level is
below the skimmer throat (easy to do if the skimmer is leaking) ;-)

I am OK with the concrete part since that patch of grass goes right up
to a 2' wide part of deck. As I said, I doubt I am cutting out a cubic
foot of concrete.
I was thinking about going back with Spa Flex to have a little more
"give" in the system. I am hoping this patch will last a while to so I
can take my time planning the repair. The hardest part may be the
digging with minimal damage to my grass.


You should be able to trim off a layer of sod and put it back when finished.
Just keep it watered while it's set aside.
--

Freedom Isn't Free!


I wonder why you need to disturb your grass? Where is the leak? If its the
skimmer itself that's cracked you might consider lining the skimmer
  #13   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2020
Posts: 58
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On 7/14/20 9:57 AM, Justan wrote:
On 7/14/20 9:14 AM, John wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 19:46:40 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 20:26:36 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

MOn 7/12/20 3:28 AM,
wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 00:11:59 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 23:24:37 -0400,
wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 15:13:11 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 16:39:58 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

A trick you may not know about.
CRC 6-56 will remove all traces of silicone adhesive from your hands. Spray
your hands with the stuff. Rub it in till the silicone dissolves. Then wet
your hands and rub in again. Wipe off with paper towels then use soap and
water to remove what's left. This stuff is amazing. I've been using it for
years but I didn't know what it could do to uncured silicone. West Marine
will have it in stock.

===

That is a good tip because silicone is notoriously difficult to
remove. We use a fair amout of 3M5200 for things like sealing window
glass. That's tough stuff also but WD40 cleans it right up from just
about anything as long as it hasn't cured yet.

I just tried 5200 to fix a cracked skimmer on the pool.
I have done it with epoxy twice and it cracks again Something is
moving. I hope the 5200 is flexible enough to hold until I get time to
cut that thing out and put in a new one, along with finding out what
is moving. My suspicion is the backfill is bad and the leak only makes
it worse. I know I will be digging up that pretty zoysia grass and it
is a shame. This is the first time I was able to make the grass there
decent.

===

We've been in a running battle with our pool skimmer for as long as
we've owned the house, 17 years. Our pool guy says he can replace it
for about $1500 and I'm almost ready to do that. Meanwhile he patches
it about once a year with some kind of underwater epoxy. I'll be
interested to hear how your 5200 repair works out.

Yup that is me. I think the problem is the piping below is subsiding
and pulling the skimmer down. That is the weakest point. Next time it
will be set in lean grout mix, tied to the shell. If I ever have to
cut it out again I have air tools.
I am hoping I can hold on until I am ready for a project. The good
news is it is only about a cubic foot of concrete I need to cut out
but I will kill my grass. I just hope I can cut out the sod and put it
back. I figured out if I can keep the pump running I can suck that
skimmer line water level below the part I have to cut out by playing
with the valves and not draining 2-3 feet out of the pool.
I was doing well pump things today.
The joys of home ownership ;-)

Here's what you do. Drain the pool to level with the bottom of the skimmer
then shut off the return line. Peel the skimmer from the pool and cut the
pipe away from the skimmer with a hole saw. Then cut off a foot or more of
the pvc pipe and replace it with good quality flexable pipe. I'm thinking
windshield adhesive might be a good choice to glue the new skimmer to the
pool. Ask Fat Harry how to finish off the big hole you had to make in the
pool deck. Good luck and post lots of pictures of the project

Draining the pool 2+ feet is what I am trying to avoid. I seem to be
able to hold the water back with the pump as long as the pool level is
below the skimmer throat (easy to do if the skimmer is leaking) ;-)

I am OK with the concrete part since that patch of grass goes right up
to a 2' wide part of deck. As I said, I doubt I am cutting out a cubic
foot of concrete.
I was thinking about going back with Spa Flex to have a little more
"give" in the system. I am hoping this patch will last a while to so I
can take my time planning the repair. The hardest part may be the
digging with minimal damage to my grass.


You should be able to trim off a layer of sod and put it back when finished.
Just keep it watered while it's set aside.
--

Freedom Isn't Free!


I wonder why you need to disturb your grass? Where is the leak? If its the
skimmer itself that's cracked you might consider lining the skimmer with flex seal. I don't know if it comes in white but that doesn't matter much since you can't see it unless you remove the skimmer cover. You don't have anything to lose. As far as using the pool pump to keep water from backfilling the skimmer, I'd worry about burning up the pump seals. You should have a shutoff valve on the inlet side of the pump or filter that would prevent backfilling.

  #14   Report Post  
posted to rec.boats
external usenet poster
 
First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Jul 2007
Posts: 36,387
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On Tue, 14 Jul 2020 15:57:36 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

On 7/14/20 9:14 AM, John wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 19:46:40 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 20:26:36 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

MOn 7/12/20 3:28 AM,
wrote:
On Sun, 12 Jul 2020 00:11:59 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 23:24:37 -0400,
wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 15:13:11 -0400,

wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 16:39:58 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

A trick you may not know about.
CRC 6-56 will remove all traces of silicone adhesive from your hands. Spray
your hands with the stuff. Rub it in till the silicone dissolves. Then wet
your hands and rub in again. Wipe off with paper towels then use soap and
water to remove what's left. This stuff is amazing. I've been using it for
years but I didn't know what it could do to uncured silicone. West Marine
will have it in stock.

===

That is a good tip because silicone is notoriously difficult to
remove. We use a fair amout of 3M5200 for things like sealing window
glass. That's tough stuff also but WD40 cleans it right up from just
about anything as long as it hasn't cured yet.

I just tried 5200 to fix a cracked skimmer on the pool.
I have done it with epoxy twice and it cracks again Something is
moving. I hope the 5200 is flexible enough to hold until I get time to
cut that thing out and put in a new one, along with finding out what
is moving. My suspicion is the backfill is bad and the leak only makes
it worse. I know I will be digging up that pretty zoysia grass and it
is a shame. This is the first time I was able to make the grass there
decent.

===

We've been in a running battle with our pool skimmer for as long as
we've owned the house, 17 years. Our pool guy says he can replace it
for about $1500 and I'm almost ready to do that. Meanwhile he patches
it about once a year with some kind of underwater epoxy. I'll be
interested to hear how your 5200 repair works out.

Yup that is me. I think the problem is the piping below is subsiding
and pulling the skimmer down. That is the weakest point. Next time it
will be set in lean grout mix, tied to the shell. If I ever have to
cut it out again I have air tools.
I am hoping I can hold on until I am ready for a project. The good
news is it is only about a cubic foot of concrete I need to cut out
but I will kill my grass. I just hope I can cut out the sod and put it
back. I figured out if I can keep the pump running I can suck that
skimmer line water level below the part I have to cut out by playing
with the valves and not draining 2-3 feet out of the pool.
I was doing well pump things today.
The joys of home ownership ;-)

Here's what you do. Drain the pool to level with the bottom of the skimmer
then shut off the return line. Peel the skimmer from the pool and cut the
pipe away from the skimmer with a hole saw. Then cut off a foot or more of
the pvc pipe and replace it with good quality flexable pipe. I'm thinking
windshield adhesive might be a good choice to glue the new skimmer to the
pool. Ask Fat Harry how to finish off the big hole you had to make in the
pool deck. Good luck and post lots of pictures of the project

Draining the pool 2+ feet is what I am trying to avoid. I seem to be
able to hold the water back with the pump as long as the pool level is
below the skimmer throat (easy to do if the skimmer is leaking) ;-)

I am OK with the concrete part since that patch of grass goes right up
to a 2' wide part of deck. As I said, I doubt I am cutting out a cubic
foot of concrete.
I was thinking about going back with Spa Flex to have a little more
"give" in the system. I am hoping this patch will last a while to so I
can take my time planning the repair. The hardest part may be the
digging with minimal damage to my grass.


You should be able to trim off a layer of sod and put it back when finished.
Just keep it watered while it's set aside.
--

Freedom Isn't Free!


I wonder why you need to disturb your grass? Where is the leak? If its the
skimmer itself that's cracked you might consider lining the skimmer


I haven't seen that process but I bet Wayne is interested too. The
grass is right where the skimmer is and where I need to excavate.
  #15   Report Post  
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Posts: 36,387
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On Tue, 14 Jul 2020 16:08:35 -0000 (UTC), Justan wrote:

As far as using the pool pump to keep water from backfilling the skimmer, I'd worry about burning up the pump seals. You should have a shutoff valve on the inlet side of the pump or filter that would prevent backfilling.


The pump is still moving water, I am just drawing the suction line
water level down below the skimmer. There is still plenty of water
coming in the drain in the bottom and the vacuum line.
There is no valve between the skimmer and the drain (code issue) they
are on a common suction line that extends below the bottom of the
pool.
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