Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment, mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the experts.

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:09:37 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment, mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the experts.

You may be correct in your diagnosis, but a couple of things come to mind.

1. They know about that valve and what it does. That would be one of the first things any half-assed tech would look at.

2. If a control motor is burned out, it's hard to believe it's not throwing a code. Modern cars can tell if you farted in the seat.

Let us know what their final determination is.

On 6/2/2017 8:44 AM, justan wrote:
"Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message:

Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment, mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the experts.


Airlock in the heater core? What kind of dummy do they think you are?



Just came back from talking to the service people at the dealership and
to the tech who is working on the car. He acknowledged that an air lock
in a brand new car would be unusual but they just follow the recommended
"fix" in the Nissan service manuals. They've tried three times now and,
when I told him my theory, he agreed and said they'd replace the control
valve next.

He said that the 2017 versions a little different than past models and
this is the first time they've encountered this problem.

He also looked at the note that the counter guy had written. He put,
"customer states he smelled a burning odor". I explained to him that
it wasn't a normal "hot" odor of a new car with new pipes, etc. I said
it was the distinctive electrical odor of something like a locked motor
burning up it's windings. Saw the light bulb go on in his head.

On 6/2/2017 9:43 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:09:37 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment, mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the experts.

You may be correct in your diagnosis, but a couple of things come to mind.

1. They know about that valve and what it does. That would be one of the first things any half-assed tech would look at.

2. If a control motor is burned out, it's hard to believe it's not throwing a code. Modern cars can tell if you farted in the seat.

Let us know what their final determination is.



He mentioned that they can exercise just about everything via the ECM
but it didn't report any problems. When I explained everything that I
just replied to Justin with, he said he would go ahead and replace the
coolant valve anyway. He thinks my theory is probably correct.
I am surprised a fuse didn't blow though. He said they were all ok.

I am thinking the motor windings were bad and they just burned up and
opened. The ECM would confirm a voltage was being sent, but it may not
report that nothing happened.

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 10:15:12 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 6/2/2017 9:43 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:09:37 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment, mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the experts.

You may be correct in your diagnosis, but a couple of things come to mind.

1. They know about that valve and what it does. That would be one of the first things any half-assed tech would look at.

2. If a control motor is burned out, it's hard to believe it's not throwing a code. Modern cars can tell if you farted in the seat.

Let us know what their final determination is.



He mentioned that they can exercise just about everything via the ECM
but it didn't report any problems. When I explained everything that I
just replied to Justin with, he said he would go ahead and replace the
coolant valve anyway. He thinks my theory is probably correct.
I am surprised a fuse didn't blow though. He said they were all ok.

I am thinking the motor windings were bad and they just burned up and
opened. The ECM would confirm a voltage was being sent, but it may not
report that nothing happened.

These days the cars even monitor when a bulb burns out, and that's done by measuring current flow, not voltage. Some of the early LED lighting kits would set error codes because they didn't pull enough current. The newer kits fixed that.

Good luck!

On 6/2/2017 9:43 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:09:37 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment, mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the experts.

You may be correct in your diagnosis, but a couple of things come to mind.

1. They know about that valve and what it does. That would be one of the first things any half-assed tech would look at.

2. If a control motor is burned out, it's hard to believe it's not throwing a code. Modern cars can tell if you farted in the seat.

Let us know what their final determination is.



One problem that exists in service departments at dealerships is that
because warranty work is reimbursed by the manufacturer, the techs are
required to follow the recommended manufacturer's procedures to fix the
problem. They allow a certain amount of hours to affect the repair as well.

It's only after the recommended procedure fails that they can do
anything else, and they have to coordinate additional work with the
manufacturer in order to receive payment.

On 6/2/17 10:14 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 6/2/2017 9:43 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:09:37 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment, mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the
experts.

You may be correct in your diagnosis, but a couple of things come to
mind.

1. They know about that valve and what it does. That would be one of
the first things any half-assed tech would look at.

2. If a control motor is burned out, it's hard to believe it's not
throwing a code. Modern cars can tell if you farted in the seat.

Let us know what their final determination is.



He mentioned that they can exercise just about everything via the ECM
but it didn't report any problems. When I explained everything that I
just replied to Justin with, he said he would go ahead and replace the
coolant valve anyway. He thinks my theory is probably correct.
I am surprised a fuse didn't blow though. He said they were all ok.

I am thinking the motor windings were bad and they just burned up and
opened. The ECM would confirm a voltage was being sent, but it may not
report that nothing happened.




Gosh, never had an ECM problem on my 1953 Aero Willys hardtop.
A ton and a half of automotive mastery, with a 90 hp engine and a three
speed on the column.

When something broke, a quick trip to the junkyard for a "new" part. I
have a memory of it not having an oil filter as standard, and my dad and
I installed one. Or that might have been on some other Willys vehicle he
liked and owned, maybe a 1949 Jeep wagon or Jeepster. Hazy memories.

On 6/2/2017 10:33 AM, Keyser Soze wrote:
On 6/2/17 10:14 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 6/2/2017 9:43 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:09:37 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested
it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for
assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there
is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment,
mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the
experts.

You may be correct in your diagnosis, but a couple of things come to
mind.

1. They know about that valve and what it does. That would be one of
the first things any half-assed tech would look at.

2. If a control motor is burned out, it's hard to believe it's not
throwing a code. Modern cars can tell if you farted in the seat.

Let us know what their final determination is.



He mentioned that they can exercise just about everything via the ECM
but it didn't report any problems. When I explained everything that I
just replied to Justin with, he said he would go ahead and replace the
coolant valve anyway. He thinks my theory is probably correct.
I am surprised a fuse didn't blow though. He said they were all ok.

I am thinking the motor windings were bad and they just burned up and
opened. The ECM would confirm a voltage was being sent, but it may not
report that nothing happened.




Gosh, never had an ECM problem on my 1953 Aero Willys hardtop.
A ton and a half of automotive mastery, with a 90 hp engine and a three
speed on the column.

When something broke, a quick trip to the junkyard for a "new" part. I
have a memory of it not having an oil filter as standard, and my dad and
I installed one. Or that might have been on some other Willys vehicle he
liked and owned, maybe a 1949 Jeep wagon or Jeepster. Hazy memories.



Yeah, I remember those days also. Great fun to visit the local
junkyards looking for stuff to either fix or add to your jalopy.
In those days they let you roam around the yard, find whatever you
wanted, remove it, take it back to the office and negotiate a price.

I haven't seen an active junkyard in years.

On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 11:02:27 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 6/2/2017 10:33 AM, Keyser Soze wrote:
On 6/2/17 10:14 AM, Mr. Luddite wrote:
On 6/2/2017 9:43 AM, Its Me wrote:
On Friday, June 2, 2017 at 7:09:37 AM UTC-4, Mr. Luddite wrote:
Car is still at the dealership (since Tuesday morning). They told me
that the heater core was airlocked and they had drained the coolant,
purged and replaced it and thought it was fixed but when they tested
it,
no heat again. Repeated the purging process without success. Still no
heat.

The service manager told me they have a call in to Nissan for
assistance
in finding the problem.

I am going to go there later this morning and let them know what the
problem is.

When I picked up the car last Saturday evening and drove it home I
noticed a slight electrical burning odor coming from the engine
compartment. I noticed it again on Sunday but then it went away.
Didn't smell it again.

I informed the service manager of the odor when I brought it in on
Tuesday but they sorta brushed it off saying the car was new and it was
probably just things getting hot for the first time.

Maybe, but I know the difference between a new "hot" odor and an
electrical burning odor.

Anyway, after doing some Google "research" I discovered that there
is a
motor driven coolant control valve in the engine compartment,
mounted on
the firewall. When the climate control calls for heat, the motor opens
the valve, allowing coolant to flow through the heater core. When no
heat is called for or air conditioning is being used, it closes.

I think the valve was stuck or jammed shut from the factory. When the
little motor tried to open it, it first overheated and eventually burnt
out which accounts for the electrical burning odor that then went away.
It also accounts for no heat, obviously.

Need to be diplomatic though. Sometimes you can **** people off by
trying to be helpful, especially when *they* are supposed to be the
experts.

You may be correct in your diagnosis, but a couple of things come to
mind.

1. They know about that valve and what it does. That would be one of
the first things any half-assed tech would look at.

2. If a control motor is burned out, it's hard to believe it's not
throwing a code. Modern cars can tell if you farted in the seat.

Let us know what their final determination is.



He mentioned that they can exercise just about everything via the ECM
but it didn't report any problems. When I explained everything that I
just replied to Justin with, he said he would go ahead and replace the
coolant valve anyway. He thinks my theory is probably correct.
I am surprised a fuse didn't blow though. He said they were all ok.

I am thinking the motor windings were bad and they just burned up and
opened. The ECM would confirm a voltage was being sent, but it may not
report that nothing happened.




Gosh, never had an ECM problem on my 1953 Aero Willys hardtop.
A ton and a half of automotive mastery, with a 90 hp engine and a three
speed on the column.

When something broke, a quick trip to the junkyard for a "new" part. I
have a memory of it not having an oil filter as standard, and my dad and
I installed one. Or that might have been on some other Willys vehicle he
liked and owned, maybe a 1949 Jeep wagon or Jeepster. Hazy memories.



Yeah, I remember those days also. Great fun to visit the local
junkyards looking for stuff to either fix or add to your jalopy.
In those days they let you roam around the yard, find whatever you
wanted, remove it, take it back to the office and negotiate a price.

I haven't seen an active junkyard in years.

There's one about 15 miles from here that "specializes" in 60's, 70's and some 80's model cars and trucks. I've roamed that yard a few times and have found a few pieces for my old Torino. Everything is pretty picked over. I did find a remote control sport side mirror. The remote is the kind with a small "joystick" that attaches to cables that go out to the mirror housing and move the mirror around. If you don't have one, they're not easy to find.

The best stuff comes from Arizona and the southwest in general. No rust. But you pay for it.

Been a while since I've toured a junkyard up here. The last time I needed a mirror for my 1995 Plymouth Voyageur, they had a computer system that connected all the major junkyards. If you needed a part your search went far and wide while you sat at your phone. They even had a guy here in the city where you could pick up your part at his house...as long as you didn't go at his supper time.