I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.

On 4/22/2016 1:23 PM, wrote:
I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.


Don't know what system your friend has but on mine there was no way to
"bump up" the cell current. It draws what it draws, depending on the
salt level. At 3400 ppm, that was about 6 or 7 amps. When it turned on
it would jump up and peak at about 10 amps, then drop to 6 or 7.

What you *can* do is increase the duty cycle, meaning how often the cell
operates. I used to start at 50 percent at the beginning of the
summer and drop it to 40 percent by August.

Also, the cell won't work unless the water temp is 64 degrees or above.
It also won't work if the pool water is low in salt. Mine told you
that the salt level was low or very low. You can also tell by how much
current the cell is drawing. If it drops to 4 or 5 amps or less, the
salt level is way too low and you are not generating any chlorine.

On 4/22/2016 1:23 PM, wrote:

I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.



BTW ... usually there is also a "super chlorinate" cycle option that
will run the cell continuously for 24 hours. Similar to adding shock.

If the pool is green, you may have to add some liquid shock anyway.
The chlorine generated by the salt system is designed to *maintain* a
safe chlorine level in the pool, not to do an initial cleaning or startup.

Sounds to me like somehow the pool got way too low in salt and the cell
couldn't keep up at the setting is was at.

On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 13:36:15 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 4/22/2016 1:23 PM, wrote:
I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.


Don't know what system your friend has but on mine there was no way to
"bump up" the cell current. It draws what it draws, depending on the
salt level. At 3400 ppm, that was about 6 or 7 amps. When it turned on
it would jump up and peak at about 10 amps, then drop to 6 or 7.

What you *can* do is increase the duty cycle, meaning how often the cell
operates. I used to start at 50 percent at the beginning of the
summer and drop it to 40 percent by August.

Also, the cell won't work unless the water temp is 64 degrees or above.
It also won't work if the pool water is low in salt. Mine told you
that the salt level was low or very low. You can also tell by how much
current the cell is drawing. If it drops to 4 or 5 amps or less, the
salt level is way too low and you are not generating any chlorine.


I guess that is what I am changing then. DAMININO. I am a "tabs in a
floater" guy.

I think it was 16a. Water is 28C so I doubt it is off for under temp
;-)

System says salt is 3500 PPM but Henc says it is wrong and that means
3100. When things settle down I am going to take a bottle of water up
to the pool store and see what is going on. I really don't want to put
my $8000 YSI meter in chlorinated water if I don't have too.
I saw a calibration for salt but I am not sure if he did it.

On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 13:40:54 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 4/22/2016 1:23 PM, wrote:

I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.



BTW ... usually there is also a "super chlorinate" cycle option that
will run the cell continuously for 24 hours. Similar to adding shock.

If the pool is green, you may have to add some liquid shock anyway.
The chlorine generated by the salt system is designed to *maintain* a
safe chlorine level in the pool, not to do an initial cleaning or startup.

Sounds to me like somehow the pool got way too low in salt and the cell
couldn't keep up at the setting is was at.


I smacked it with 2 bags of shock.
Normally I would do 10-15 gallons of liquid for that much algae but he
didn't have any.

On 4/22/16 2:21 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 13:44:28 -0400 (EDT), fire man
wrote:

Wrote in message:
I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.


Its green Algae season. Use shock, algae killer, and scrub walls.

I brushed it and fixed the broken pool cleaner.


I'm so glad our county builds and maintains a number of indoor and
outdoor pools, and maintains them properly. The Edward T. Hall Aquatics
Center, with an indoor ten-lane, 50-meter pool with a diving well as
well as therapy and leisure pools and toddler pools and several exercise
rooms, is only a couple of minutes from the house. Every time I've been
there, I've noticed the pool maintenance folks checking the water
chemistry in all the pools at least once an hour. It's a great facility,
with lots of parking, nice locker rooms, snacks, and instructors, if you
need them, and ongoing therapy programs.

wrote:
On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 13:44:28 -0400 (EDT), fire man
wrote:

Wrote in message:
I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.


Its green Algae season. Use shock, algae killer, and scrub walls.

I brushed it and fixed the broken pool cleaner.



I looked at converting to salt, and looked like it was as least or more
expensive than chlorine. Replace a couple hundred buck cell every few
years, and lots of electricity. You also might check for phosphate level.
Lots of leafs raise up the phosphate and encourage algae bloom. I use
liquid in the winter and tabs rest of year. Using liquid reduces the
conditioner which the tabs add. Mine was cloudy , but acid was low, and
1000 phosphate level. Or phosphate may be just a way for Leslie to sell
more expensive additives.

On Friday, April 22, 2016 at 2:34:14 PM UTC-4, Keyser Söze wrote:
On 4/22/16 2:21 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 13:44:28 -0400 (EDT), fire man
wrote:

Wrote in message:
I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.


Its green Algae season. Use shock, algae killer, and scrub walls.

I brushed it and fixed the broken pool cleaner.


I'm so glad our county builds and maintains a number of indoor and
outdoor pools, and maintains them properly. The Edward T. Hall Aquatics
Center, with an indoor ten-lane, 50-meter pool with a diving well as
well as therapy and leisure pools and toddler pools and several exercise
rooms, is only a couple of minutes from the house. Every time I've been
there, I've noticed the pool maintenance folks checking the water
chemistry in all the pools at least once an hour. It's a great facility,
with lots of parking, nice locker rooms, snacks, and instructors, if you
need them, and ongoing therapy programs.

===

If you're happy with your county, you can keep your county.

On 4/22/2016 1:48 PM, fire man wrote:
"Mr. Luddite" Wrote in message:
On 4/22/2016 1:23 PM, wrote:
I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.


Don't know what system your friend has but on mine there was no way to
"bump up" the cell current. It draws what it draws, depending on the
salt level. At 3400 ppm, that was about 6 or 7 amps. When it turned on
it would jump up and peak at about 10 amps, then drop to 6 or 7.

What you *can* do is increase the duty cycle, meaning how often the cell
operates. I used to start at 50 percent at the beginning of the
summer and drop it to 40 percent by August.

Also, the cell won't work unless the water temp is 64 degrees or above.
It also won't work if the pool water is low in salt. Mine told you
that the salt level was low or very low. You can also tell by how much
current the cell is drawing. If it drops to 4 or 5 amps or less, the
salt level is way too low and you are not generating any chlorine.


I just had to replace my cell and fix a roof leak where the solar
panels are mounted. Damn pools.
Two more weeks and it's someone else's problem.



I replaced the turbo cell on the pool we had at the beginning of last
summer. The old one was going on it's 9th season. They are supposed to
only be good for about 5 years. Turns out the old one still worked.
I replaced it only because we were selling the house and wanted to make
sure it everything was up to snuff.

On 4/22/2016 2:18 PM, wrote:
On Fri, 22 Apr 2016 13:36:15 -0400, "Mr. Luddite"
wrote:

On 4/22/2016 1:23 PM, wrote:
I am watching Henc's pool again after he went back to Europe. It was
greener than Kermit the frog the other day. I am still not convinced.
I bumped up the cell current after I got it cleaned up.


Don't know what system your friend has but on mine there was no way to
"bump up" the cell current. It draws what it draws, depending on the
salt level. At 3400 ppm, that was about 6 or 7 amps. When it turned on
it would jump up and peak at about 10 amps, then drop to 6 or 7.

What you *can* do is increase the duty cycle, meaning how often the cell
operates. I used to start at 50 percent at the beginning of the
summer and drop it to 40 percent by August.

Also, the cell won't work unless the water temp is 64 degrees or above.
It also won't work if the pool water is low in salt. Mine told you
that the salt level was low or very low. You can also tell by how much
current the cell is drawing. If it drops to 4 or 5 amps or less, the
salt level is way too low and you are not generating any chlorine.


I guess that is what I am changing then. DAMININO. I am a "tabs in a
floater" guy.

I think it was 16a. Water is 28C so I doubt it is off for under temp
;-)

System says salt is 3500 PPM but Henc says it is wrong and that means
3100. When things settle down I am going to take a bottle of water up
to the pool store and see what is going on. I really don't want to put
my $8000 YSI meter in chlorinated water if I don't have too.
I saw a calibration for salt but I am not sure if he did it.


3100 ppm is fine. The system starts complaining when the salt drops to
below 2600 ppm. BTW ... 16 amps sounds *way* too high. Remote
possibility you might have a bad cell or cell power supply which would
explain why the pool is green. No chlorine is being produced.

Unlike a direct chlorine based pool system, you shouldn't notice any
chlorine smell at all in the pool. Best to take a sample to the pool
store and have them test it. The readings always vary from tester to
tester. My system always read a little high, but it was still over 3000
ppm.

I never had a problem with the system for the eight years we had it.
Oh ... yes, I did have one problem the second year. The circuit board
solder pad for the relay that provided power to the cell got too hot and
fried. Fortunately for me it was a known problem and I found it right
away. I re soldered it, putting a large blob of extra solder on the pad.
It acted like a heat sink and worked fine for the next 7 years.