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anybody familiar with old wells?
https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10204124338650323&set=vb.1281248494&ty pe=2&theater¬if_t=video_processed
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anybody familiar with old wells?
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anybody familiar with old wells?
When I built a Cape Cod style house about 18 miles outside the old city limits in 1974/75 we had a 165 foot well drilled in the back yard.
We had the pump and water tank in the basement. Two hoses went from the pump to the venturi valve at about the 150 foot level. Then a short 10 foot length of tailpipe was attached to the bottom of the venturi valve with a filter type of valve on the very end. I can't remember if there was a 3rd hose to provide air to the well but do remember installing one in the top of the concrete cap that covered the well crock at the surface. I believe the drilled part was about 8" in diameter. We sold that house to return to the city in 1985. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
- show quoted text - " That sounds like you had a jet pump. KC appears to have a regular submersible. Our neighborhood got by with 2" wells (still at 200') using surface water (suction) pumps for decades, then around 95-2000 they started sucking air and you had the choice of converting to jet or punching a 4" and using a submersible. Since I do not irrigate, my 2" well was holding but I decided to go the 4" route preemptively in 2001 as part of a total overhaul of my water system. " Yes, jet pump sounds familiar and the drilled part may have been only 6" in diameter. The well only made up about 1.5 gallons per minute and I remember running out of water (pump on continually) during one house party with over a dozen guests flushing and washing continually. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/27/2014 3:59 PM, True North wrote:
- show quoted text - " That sounds like you had a jet pump. KC appears to have a regular submersible. Our neighborhood got by with 2" wells (still at 200') using surface water (suction) pumps for decades, then around 95-2000 they started sucking air and you had the choice of converting to jet or punching a 4" and using a submersible. Since I do not irrigate, my 2" well was holding but I decided to go the 4" route preemptively in 2001 as part of a total overhaul of my water system. " Yes, jet pump sounds familiar and the drilled part may have been only 6" in diameter. The well only made up about 1.5 gallons per minute and I remember running out of water (pump on continually) during one house party with over a dozen guests flushing and washing continually. I can't imagine how you were able to live like that. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
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anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/27/2014 5:08 PM, Harrold wrote:
On 8/27/2014 3:59 PM, True North wrote: - show quoted text - " That sounds like you had a jet pump. KC appears to have a regular submersible. Our neighborhood got by with 2" wells (still at 200') using surface water (suction) pumps for decades, then around 95-2000 they started sucking air and you had the choice of converting to jet or punching a 4" and using a submersible. Since I do not irrigate, my 2" well was holding but I decided to go the 4" route preemptively in 2001 as part of a total overhaul of my water system. " Yes, jet pump sounds familiar and the drilled part may have been only 6" in diameter. The well only made up about 1.5 gallons per minute and I remember running out of water (pump on continually) during one house party with over a dozen guests flushing and washing continually. I can't imagine how you were able to live like that. I think we are required to show 3.5 gpm here... |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/27/2014 5:23 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 16:34:07 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/27/2014 3:19 PM, wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:47:09 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/27/2014 2:31 PM, wrote: **** CAUTION READ THE WHOLE NOTE ****- That looks like a 4" well with a submersible pump at the bottom (on the end if that pipe). When the cap comes loose you should be able to pull the whole deal out but it is going to be heavy. There is a 35-40 pound pump and a pipe full of water. How deep do you think it is? The caution part STOP NOW Either glue a T fitting with stubs of pipe on the end of the well pipe pr drill a hole in it and put a rope through it, tied off to something solid When you get that cap out, the pipe may (and probably will) come loose and go down the hole Then you are ****ed. A "T" with stubs of pipe bigger than the casing give you a good handle and also keeps it from going down the hole. You may even want to back that up with a screw through the fitting into the pipe At least drill and tie a rope on it. Usually guys put a rope on the pump when they install them and attach it to the cap but YMMV on that. I have seen plenty come out, simply hanging on the wire. So, by your statement I assume that pipe and pump is suspended and not resting on the bottom of the well? If so, there must be something else besides the well cap holding it up? The design of the well cap doesn't suggest that but I am off to grab a Tee and a couple stubs now.. And thanks for the idea, drilling a hole and using a steel rod might be a good solution to holding that pipe between grabs and cuts as it comes out of the ground. The well is 200 feet +/- 25 feet. I found specs on line for 1 1/2 inch pipe and it said is was 2.78 pounds per running foot so at 200 feet I have slightly under 600 pounds of pipe plus pump, plus water, plus wire and anything else they might have put down there, doing all my figuring based on 2000 pounds, although I feel it will be closer to 1000. I haven't decided if I am going to build a staging out of 6x6's or use the winch off a 4x4 (12 v) orrrrrr a block and tackle, come along, etc. But I am heading out to get a tee and make a "top" for that pipe. The cap is what holds the pipe and the pump. Once you are sure you have the pipe secured you can try to lever that cap up and prop it on top of the well casing to get access to the hole. Drop a nut on your fishing rod down there and see how far it is to the pump. You might be able to do this through one of those NPT holes in the cap. I am 99% sure my dad said "it's 183 feet". Now what exactly he meant I don't know but I am figuring everything on 200 feet. I will check the water level when I get through the cap. Don't use a lead sinker, in case you lose it. Good point. There is a good chance the pump is not all the way to the bottom of the well. My well is 200' but the static water level is about 30' down. The pump is at 60 right now. It was 40' 10 years ago. This static water level is significantly lower than it was 10 years ago and 20 years ago it was artesian. Most of that water was wasted on growing grass (not mine) Aquifers all over the world are dropping at an alarming rate. You might find your pump is just not deep enough. Again your fishing rod is your friend. Put a weight and a bobber on, drop it down and see how deep the static water level is. I will check it but I remember the story of drilling, 150 feet gave them enough to pass, but they went down to the next Aquifer at 183. Our Aquifer comes from Canada according to studies and supplied our neighborhood for 30 years until the 80's when 95% of the homes in the area up over the hill went to city water. We and a few other houses on our street that were just caught up in another neighborhoods problem, didn't switch over. Thanks again out to the hardware store and the house on the shore.. issues there too... later. Around here the aquifer has enough to drive the water a ways up the pipe once you get down in it. Of course the more water people pump out, the less the static pressure. As I said 20 years ago, a 200' well would free flow at ground level. If you do suck air, the usual result is the pump heats up (it is water cooled) and it will eventually fall off the pipe as the PVC softens. BTW I bet that is 1.25" pipe, not 1.5" (you are measuring ID, not OD That would make it a little lighter. Doing simple math I get 1.7 cu/ft of water in the pipe at 62 pounds per cu/ft or 124# The whole cludge should be less than 200# (at 200') If it really is 1,5" add another 28 pounds. That is a tough pull but not impossible for 2 guys. When my neighbor and I did mine we used a chain wrench to hold what we had as we went along. A 3d person on the wrench is pretty much mandatory. I suppose if you had 2 chain wrenches and some kind of cherry picker this would go a lot easier. I think a 400 pound rated man lift only cost us about $100 a day. If you see bolts on top of that cap, they are what compresses the rubber plug and lets everything go when you loosen them (pipe, casing etc) Prying the plug out of the casing with the bolts tight may relax the rubber enough to release the pipe or not, depending on how hard it has become over the years. So a couple of guys could pull it up technically? |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/27/2014 5:23 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 16:34:07 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/27/2014 3:19 PM, wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:47:09 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/27/2014 2:31 PM, wrote: **** CAUTION READ THE WHOLE NOTE ****- That looks like a 4" well with a submersible pump at the bottom (on the end if that pipe). When the cap comes loose you should be able to pull the whole deal out but it is going to be heavy. There is a 35-40 pound pump and a pipe full of water. How deep do you think it is? The caution part STOP NOW Either glue a T fitting with stubs of pipe on the end of the well pipe pr drill a hole in it and put a rope through it, tied off to something solid When you get that cap out, the pipe may (and probably will) come loose and go down the hole Then you are ****ed. A "T" with stubs of pipe bigger than the casing give you a good handle and also keeps it from going down the hole. You may even want to back that up with a screw through the fitting into the pipe At least drill and tie a rope on it. Usually guys put a rope on the pump when they install them and attach it to the cap but YMMV on that. I have seen plenty come out, simply hanging on the wire. So, by your statement I assume that pipe and pump is suspended and not resting on the bottom of the well? If so, there must be something else besides the well cap holding it up? The design of the well cap doesn't suggest that but I am off to grab a Tee and a couple stubs now.. And thanks for the idea, drilling a hole and using a steel rod might be a good solution to holding that pipe between grabs and cuts as it comes out of the ground. The well is 200 feet +/- 25 feet. I found specs on line for 1 1/2 inch pipe and it said is was 2.78 pounds per running foot so at 200 feet I have slightly under 600 pounds of pipe plus pump, plus water, plus wire and anything else they might have put down there, doing all my figuring based on 2000 pounds, although I feel it will be closer to 1000. I haven't decided if I am going to build a staging out of 6x6's or use the winch off a 4x4 (12 v) orrrrrr a block and tackle, come along, etc. But I am heading out to get a tee and make a "top" for that pipe. The cap is what holds the pipe and the pump. Once you are sure you have the pipe secured you can try to lever that cap up and prop it on top of the well casing to get access to the hole. Drop a nut on your fishing rod down there and see how far it is to the pump. You might be able to do this through one of those NPT holes in the cap. I am 99% sure my dad said "it's 183 feet". Now what exactly he meant I don't know but I am figuring everything on 200 feet. I will check the water level when I get through the cap. Don't use a lead sinker, in case you lose it. Good point. There is a good chance the pump is not all the way to the bottom of the well. My well is 200' but the static water level is about 30' down. The pump is at 60 right now. It was 40' 10 years ago. This static water level is significantly lower than it was 10 years ago and 20 years ago it was artesian. Most of that water was wasted on growing grass (not mine) Aquifers all over the world are dropping at an alarming rate. You might find your pump is just not deep enough. Again your fishing rod is your friend. Put a weight and a bobber on, drop it down and see how deep the static water level is. I will check it but I remember the story of drilling, 150 feet gave them enough to pass, but they went down to the next Aquifer at 183. Our Aquifer comes from Canada according to studies and supplied our neighborhood for 30 years until the 80's when 95% of the homes in the area up over the hill went to city water. We and a few other houses on our street that were just caught up in another neighborhoods problem, didn't switch over. Thanks again out to the hardware store and the house on the shore.. issues there too... later. Around here the aquifer has enough to drive the water a ways up the pipe once you get down in it. Of course the more water people pump out, the less the static pressure. As I said 20 years ago, a 200' well would free flow at ground level. If you do suck air, the usual result is the pump heats up (it is water cooled) and it will eventually fall off the pipe as the PVC softens. BTW I bet that is 1.25" pipe, not 1.5" (you are measuring ID, not OD That would make it a little lighter. Doing simple math I get 1.7 cu/ft of water in the pipe at 62 pounds per cu/ft or 124# The whole cludge should be less than 200# (at 200') If it really is 1,5" add another 28 pounds. That is a tough pull but not impossible for 2 guys. When my neighbor and I did mine we used a chain wrench to hold what we had as we went along. A 3d person on the wrench is pretty much mandatory. I suppose if you had 2 chain wrenches and some kind of cherry picker this would go a lot easier. I think a 400 pound rated man lift only cost us about $100 a day. If you see bolts on top of that cap, they are what compresses the rubber plug and lets everything go when you loosen them (pipe, casing etc) Prying the plug out of the casing with the bolts tight may relax the rubber enough to release the pipe or not, depending on how hard it has become over the years. I will look into a chain wrench, not familiar with them. Another guy up her suggested I drill a hole in and put a bar through.. I got hit with bad lightning storm tonight so I am done but in the morning I am going to put that tee top on first... then build a cradle with 4x4's up to it and start working on that cap again. Now the next thing I have a question about is do I have to dig down four feet to find the elbow where it comes out of the casing to go to the house and take it apart through the side? And another question. I have been looking into air driven pump with a 1 inch pipe going down and a compressed air supply connected in a few feet from the bottom. Some results I see suggest 4 gpm at 200 feet, with 85 pounds air pressure.. no moving parts or electrical wire down there, put a 250 gallon tank in the basement and feed a surface water well pump from there??? Is that nuts? |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/27/2014 8:45 PM, KC wrote:
On 8/27/2014 5:08 PM, Harrold wrote: On 8/27/2014 3:59 PM, True North wrote: - show quoted text - " That sounds like you had a jet pump. KC appears to have a regular submersible. Our neighborhood got by with 2" wells (still at 200') using surface water (suction) pumps for decades, then around 95-2000 they started sucking air and you had the choice of converting to jet or punching a 4" and using a submersible. Since I do not irrigate, my 2" well was holding but I decided to go the 4" route preemptively in 2001 as part of a total overhaul of my water system. " Yes, jet pump sounds familiar and the drilled part may have been only 6" in diameter. The well only made up about 1.5 gallons per minute and I remember running out of water (pump on continually) during one house party with over a dozen guests flushing and washing continually. I can't imagine how you were able to live like that. I think we are required to show 3.5 gpm here... When we had our well installed the minimum flow the well guy was looking for was 12 gallons per minute. They went down 512 feet. I've forgotten what they achieved but it was something like 16-18 gpm. We don't use it for the house or for human drinking water. It's for the lawn and paddock sprinkler systems, pool make up water and for washing cars and horses. Never had it tested but the horses have been drinking it for almost 14 years and they seem to be fine, dammit. It's shut off during the winter. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/27/2014 7:54 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 17:29:55 -0500, Harrold wrote: On 8/27/2014 4:23 PM, wrote: ') If it really is 1,5" add another 28 pounds. It cost me $400 labor to have my pump replaced. The well pipe comes in 20 ft threaded sections. It takes special equipment to lift, uncouple, and couple the pipe without dropping the pump. Do you want to rely on the wiring to save the pump if something goes wrong with the jerry-rig. Let the pros do it. This one looks like it is on PVC pipe. I bet they are 20' bell end sections of pipe solvent welded together and they just fed it down the hole. When you are pulling it up, the end will flop over, water will run out and it will get lighter as it comes up. I haven't tried it but my buddy says if you snake an air hose down that pipe, you can blow all the water right out. Then you are only bringing up empty pipe and the pump. Just be sure you have the air pressure set pretty low to start and bring it up. You don't want to shock the bottom of the pipe. Once it starts you will have an "Old Jed's a millionaire" gusher going. That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/27/2014 6:54 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 17:29:55 -0500, Harrold wrote: On 8/27/2014 4:23 PM, wrote: ') If it really is 1,5" add another 28 pounds. It cost me $400 labor to have my pump replaced. The well pipe comes in 20 ft threaded sections. It takes special equipment to lift, uncouple, and couple the pipe without dropping the pump. Do you want to rely on the wiring to save the pump if something goes wrong with the jerry-rig. Let the pros do it. This one looks like it is on PVC pipe. I bet they are 20' bell end sections of pipe solvent welded together and they just fed it down the hole. When you are pulling it up, the end will flop over, water will run out and it will get lighter as it comes up. I haven't tried it but my buddy says if you snake an air hose down that pipe, you can blow all the water right out. Then you are only bringing up empty pipe and the pump. Just be sure you have the air pressure set pretty low to start and bring it up. You don't want to shock the bottom of the pipe. Once it starts you will have an "Old Jed's a millionaire" gusher going. Our systems are different. Mine is galvanized steel. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/28/2014 12:02 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 21:21:06 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/27/2014 7:54 PM, wrote: On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 17:29:55 -0500, Harrold wrote: On 8/27/2014 4:23 PM, wrote: ') If it really is 1,5" add another 28 pounds. It cost me $400 labor to have my pump replaced. The well pipe comes in 20 ft threaded sections. It takes special equipment to lift, uncouple, and couple the pipe without dropping the pump. Do you want to rely on the wiring to save the pump if something goes wrong with the jerry-rig. Let the pros do it. This one looks like it is on PVC pipe. I bet they are 20' bell end sections of pipe solvent welded together and they just fed it down the hole. When you are pulling it up, the end will flop over, water will run out and it will get lighter as it comes up. I haven't tried it but my buddy says if you snake an air hose down that pipe, you can blow all the water right out. Then you are only bringing up empty pipe and the pump. Just be sure you have the air pressure set pretty low to start and bring it up. You don't want to shock the bottom of the pipe. Once it starts you will have an "Old Jed's a millionaire" gusher going. That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On Wednesday, August 27, 2014 3:19:20 PM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wed, 27 Aug 2014 14:47:09 -0400, KC wrote: So, by your statement I assume that pipe and pump is suspended and not resting on the bottom of the well? If so, there must be something else There is a good chance the pump is not all the way to the bottom of the well. My well is 200' but the static water level is about 30' FWIW, I seriously doubt any pump would be resting on the bottom of a well. The well naturally fills up with sediment over time, and if you placed the pump on the bottom you'd be sucking up sediment and having problems before long. My old well was 385', and this house has one that's 305'. Both are 6" rock wells, and in both cases the pumps are down only about 150'. As you point out, the water level is within 15-30 feet of the surface. With the old well, the pump wasn't even below the end of the casing, it went down 180'. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
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anybody familiar with old wells?
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anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/28/2014 12:38 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 12:12:18 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/28/2014 11:46 AM, wrote: On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:43:16 -0400, KC wrote: That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. You can do some rough calculations based on the cu/ft per min of the compressor at 100 PSI (roughly 200' head) and convert that to gpm of the water at 8 times that but I doubt it actually works that efficiently. This would be the max possible. That sounds about right, the video I saw had a 200 foot well with 85 psi, and it was glugging a cup and a half glug, every few seconds... the guy said it was doing about 4 gpm.. Most of the vids I have seen look pretty stable as to the concept. The flow is not steady, and I am sure it's noisy, but it does seem to work with very simple setup. Another concern is water level in the well, there needs to be a few feet of pipe below the air inlet on the pipe for it to work right. At the same time I am still working on getting that old pipe out. Got the Tee you recommended on today, and will try to pull the cap when I get home tonight and can build a staging to hold the pipe and tee.... If you have air, it might be worth trying to get as much water out of that pipe as possible., I am not sure about where the water comes out. Down here the water would come up the pipe in your picture. It doesn't freeze here. If you are coming out 4' below grade, you will have to dig that out and cut it before you can do anything Yeah, that's what I figured... that's gonna' be a bitch. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
KC wrote:
On 8/28/2014 11:46 AM, wrote: On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:43:16 -0400, KC wrote: That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. You can do some rough calculations based on the cu/ft per min of the compressor at 100 PSI (roughly 200' head) and convert that to gpm of the water at 8 times that but I doubt it actually works that efficiently. This would be the max possible. That sounds about right, the video I saw had a 200 foot well with 85 psi, and it was glugging a cup and a half glug, every few seconds... the guy said it was doing about 4 gpm.. Most of the vids I have seen look pretty stable as to the concept. The flow is not steady, and I am sure it's noisy, but it does seem to work with very simple setup. Another concern is water level in the well, there needs to be a few feet of pipe below the air inlet on the pipe for it to work right. At the same time I am still working on getting that old pipe out. Got the Tee you recommended on today, and will try to pull the cap when I get home tonight and can build a staging to hold the pipe and tee.... When I hand bored a 43' well at my last house, I used a couple 2x4's with a hinge and a hole drilled the size of the pipe to clamp around the pipe as I pulled the 10' sections. But I had a pipe flange connecting the sections while drilling. So maybe you could modify, and wrap a length of chain around the pipe and let the chain rest against the wood while splitting the pipes. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
wrote:
On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:43:16 -0400, KC wrote: That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. You can do some rough calculations based on the cu/ft per min of the compressor at 100 PSI (roughly 200' head) and convert that to gpm of the water at 8 times that but I doubt it actually works that efficiently. This would be the max possible. I doubt it is more efficient than a submersible. Heat loss in compressing air, the loss in pumping, etc. a 3/4 horse pump these days is fairly efficient. I run a 1.5 and a 1 horse pump on my pool. 4 hours on the big pump and 2 hours on the smaller booster for the pool sweep and my electric bill is only about $50 more than not running the pumps. And the gold dredgers use these, but the head is only a few feet, not a 100+ For their air pumps. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/28/2014 12:52 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 12:49:24 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/28/2014 12:38 PM, wrote: If you have air, it might be worth trying to get as much water out of that pipe as possible., I am not sure about where the water comes out. Down here the water would come up the pipe in your picture. It doesn't freeze here. If you are coming out 4' below grade, you will have to dig that out and cut it before you can do anything Yeah, that's what I figured... that's gonna' be a bitch. Where did the pipe coming out the top go? I don't know yet... |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/28/2014 1:14 PM, Califbill wrote:
KC wrote: On 8/28/2014 11:46 AM, wrote: On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:43:16 -0400, KC wrote: That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. You can do some rough calculations based on the cu/ft per min of the compressor at 100 PSI (roughly 200' head) and convert that to gpm of the water at 8 times that but I doubt it actually works that efficiently. This would be the max possible. That sounds about right, the video I saw had a 200 foot well with 85 psi, and it was glugging a cup and a half glug, every few seconds... the guy said it was doing about 4 gpm.. Most of the vids I have seen look pretty stable as to the concept. The flow is not steady, and I am sure it's noisy, but it does seem to work with very simple setup. Another concern is water level in the well, there needs to be a few feet of pipe below the air inlet on the pipe for it to work right. At the same time I am still working on getting that old pipe out. Got the Tee you recommended on today, and will try to pull the cap when I get home tonight and can build a staging to hold the pipe and tee.... When I hand bored a 43' well at my last house, I used a couple 2x4's with a hinge and a hole drilled the size of the pipe to clamp around the pipe as I pulled the 10' sections. But I had a pipe flange connecting the sections while drilling. So maybe you could modify, and wrap a length of chain around the pipe and let the chain rest against the wood while splitting the pipes. Another good idea.. I have to decide soon, need to get this thing out. Hey, anybody know if I am gonna' need a permit to change the pump? |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/28/2014 1:14 PM, Califbill wrote:
wrote: On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:43:16 -0400, KC wrote: That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. You can do some rough calculations based on the cu/ft per min of the compressor at 100 PSI (roughly 200' head) and convert that to gpm of the water at 8 times that but I doubt it actually works that efficiently. This would be the max possible. I doubt it is more efficient than a submersible. Heat loss in compressing air, the loss in pumping, etc. a 3/4 horse pump these days is fairly efficient. I run a 1.5 and a 1 horse pump on my pool. 4 hours on the big pump and 2 hours on the smaller booster for the pool sweep and my electric bill is only about $50 more than not running the pumps. And the gold dredgers use these, but the head is only a few feet, not a 100+ For their air pumps. Yeah, I am just looking for the cheapest installation, easiest to replace. This system has no wiring or motors underground. I would have to put a storage tank in the basement but 100 gallons would be plenty. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/28/2014 9:21 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 21:04:20 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/28/2014 12:52 PM, wrote: On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 12:49:24 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/28/2014 12:38 PM, wrote: If you have air, it might be worth trying to get as much water out of that pipe as possible., I am not sure about where the water comes out. Down here the water would come up the pipe in your picture. It doesn't freeze here. If you are coming out 4' below grade, you will have to dig that out and cut it before you can do anything Yeah, that's what I figured... that's gonna' be a bitch. Where did the pipe coming out the top go? I don't know yet... There is a chance that was the output. You could try dropping a line down it and see if it goes to the pump. I am reasonably sure it's attached to the main line but it must be closed off at the tee. Being in CT the one thing I do know is I am going to find a pipe at least 4 feet down going the 35 foot run to the basement where it comes through the foundation. If it were open, the pressure from the pump would shoot the water out of the ground there instead of pumping up the pressure tank. But again, I don't doubt it's connected. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 21:55:50 -0400, KC wrote:
On 8/28/2014 1:14 PM, Califbill wrote: wrote: On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:43:16 -0400, KC wrote: That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. You can do some rough calculations based on the cu/ft per min of the compressor at 100 PSI (roughly 200' head) and convert that to gpm of the water at 8 times that but I doubt it actually works that efficiently. This would be the max possible. I doubt it is more efficient than a submersible. Heat loss in compressing air, the loss in pumping, etc. a 3/4 horse pump these days is fairly efficient. I run a 1.5 and a 1 horse pump on my pool. 4 hours on the big pump and 2 hours on the smaller booster for the pool sweep and my electric bill is only about $50 more than not running the pumps. And the gold dredgers use these, but the head is only a few feet, not a 100+ For their air pumps. Yeah, I am just looking for the cheapest installation, easiest to replace. This system has no wiring or motors underground. I would have to put a storage tank in the basement but 100 gallons would be plenty. === I wouldn't count on 100 gallons being enough unless it is a pressurized accumulator tank that is constantly being replenished by a pump. 100 gallons goes pretty fast when you have clothes washers, dish washers, showers and flush toilets being used. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
|
anybody familiar with old wells?
|
anybody familiar with old wells?
On 8/28/2014 10:52 PM, Wayne.B wrote:
On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 21:55:50 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/28/2014 1:14 PM, Califbill wrote: wrote: On Thu, 28 Aug 2014 08:43:16 -0400, KC wrote: That is the kind of pump I am thinking of putting in... Run the compressor a couple times a week and fill the 250 gallon tank in the basement. They are becoming more popular in dry areas and can be run with a lot less power than a 3/4 horse, 240v pump.. I bet it is not that much less. You still bump up against physics. Yeah, and I can't afford a learning curve.. You can do some rough calculations based on the cu/ft per min of the compressor at 100 PSI (roughly 200' head) and convert that to gpm of the water at 8 times that but I doubt it actually works that efficiently. This would be the max possible. I doubt it is more efficient than a submersible. Heat loss in compressing air, the loss in pumping, etc. a 3/4 horse pump these days is fairly efficient. I run a 1.5 and a 1 horse pump on my pool. 4 hours on the big pump and 2 hours on the smaller booster for the pool sweep and my electric bill is only about $50 more than not running the pumps. And the gold dredgers use these, but the head is only a few feet, not a 100+ For their air pumps. Yeah, I am just looking for the cheapest installation, easiest to replace. This system has no wiring or motors underground. I would have to put a storage tank in the basement but 100 gallons would be plenty. === I wouldn't count on 100 gallons being enough unless it is a pressurized accumulator tank that is constantly being replenished by a pump. 100 gallons goes pretty fast when you have clothes washers, dish washers, showers and flush toilets being used. Not sure really what I am gonna' do... Still rebuilding down the shoreline, short on cash until we get that place rented out. |
anybody familiar with old wells?
|
anybody familiar with old wells?
|
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