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On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 13:44:12 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/5/2014 1:42 PM, wrote: On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 13:23:12 -0400, KC wrote: On 8/5/2014 11:49 AM, wrote: On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 11:26:30 -0400, Poco Loco wrote: I finally was able to start it with a screw driver jumping the starter solenoid This certainly makes it sound like something in the "S" circuit to the solenoid. (Ignition switch, connector or a broken wire in the harness). Well, I am not backing away from the Sulfated Battery (sp?) or cell, but a bad connection could do the same thing... Either way if the battery survives the draw down test, it's time to check the wiring for sure... Does anyone ever "back down" around here ;-) Absolutly, in my last post I actually differed to Dick to come in and verify, or kill my observation.. ![]() There is one quick way to eliminate the idea of a bad battery. Turn the lights on and try to start the boat. If the lights don't dim or go out completely, you are not closing the circuit to the starter. It is not a battery. You can sort this whole thing out with a meter in a couple of minutes but even a test light would be very helpful. Also, the ground circuit will heat just like the hot circuit. Same current amount should be flowing in both circuits. Especially in a Fiberglas boat. |
#3
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On Tue, 05 Aug 2014 14:19:37 -0500, Califbill wrote: Also, the ground circuit will heat just like the hot circuit. Same current amount should be flowing in both circuits. Especially in a Fiberglas boat. On an outboard, the "ground circuit" is basically the battery cable from the block to the battery. Very much as the hot circuit. Loose or corroded connection on either post of the battery well heat up. Or a broken cable, with only a few strands making contact. Look at the terminals and see if any discoloration. Or feel the connections while cranking. Or get a meter and look at the voltage at the motor while cranking. |
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