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Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/11/14, 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote: H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. No, I am not. Then, you describing the person pulling the trigger? |
Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
On 4/11/2014 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote:
H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. Well then Krause is full of bull****. I shot a SW 686-6+ and the trigger was smooth as silk with no slack. |
Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
On 4/12/14, 2:53 AM, Califbill wrote:
F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote: H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. No, I am not. Then, you describing the person pulling the trigger? Slack usually is described as the rearward movement of the trigger before it engages the sear. Trigger creep describes the rearward movement of the trigger after the sear is engaged and before the gun mechanism fires the round. It's not roughness, it's distance. "Roughness" is another aspect of trigger pull. You can have trigger creep without roughness in the trigger mechanisms. Roughness you can actually feel in the mechanism usually is a telltale sign of a poorly finished gun. The custom CZ I sold had no slack or trigger creep. The S&Ws at the range, as I noted above, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers did not. Perhaps the S&Ws had seen a lot more use than the Rugers A good gunsmith who knows how to use stones can usually get rid of trigger creep. I have a Ruger Mark III target pistol that has a bit of slack and a tiny bit of trigger creep. Were I competing with the gun, I'd pay a smith to take out the trigger creep. |
Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
On 4/12/2014 7:59 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/12/14, 2:53 AM, Califbill wrote: F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote: H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. No, I am not. Then, you describing the person pulling the trigger? Slack usually is described as the rearward movement of the trigger before it engages the sear. Trigger creep describes the rearward movement of the trigger after the sear is engaged and before the gun mechanism fires the round. It's not roughness, it's distance. "Roughness" is another aspect of trigger pull. You can have trigger creep without roughness in the trigger mechanisms. Roughness you can actually feel in the mechanism usually is a telltale sign of a poorly finished gun. The custom CZ I sold had no slack or trigger creep. The S&Ws at the range, as I noted above, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers did not. Perhaps the S&Ws had seen a lot more use than the Rugers A good gunsmith who knows how to use stones can usually get rid of trigger creep. I have a Ruger Mark III target pistol that has a bit of slack and a tiny bit of trigger creep. Were I competing with the gun, I'd pay a smith to take out the trigger creep. The custom CZ you had was a dangerous gun. I wouldn't give you a nickle for it. |
Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
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Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
On Saturday, April 12, 2014 9:49:37 AM UTC-4, F. O. A. D. wrote:
BAR wrote: In article , says... On 4/12/14, 2:53 AM, Califbill wrote: F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote: H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea.. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. No, I am not. Then, you describing the person pulling the trigger? Slack usually is described as the rearward movement of the trigger before it engages the sear. Trigger creep describes the rearward movement of the trigger after the sear is engaged and before the gun mechanism fires the round. It's not roughness, it's distance. "Roughness" is another aspect of trigger pull. You can have trigger creep without roughness in the trigger mechanisms. Roughness you can actually feel in the mechanism usually is a telltale sign of a poorly finished gun. The custom CZ I sold had no slack or trigger creep. The S&Ws at the range, as I noted above, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers did not. Perhaps the S&Ws had seen a lot more use than the Rugers A good gunsmith who knows how to use stones can usually get rid of trigger creep. I have a Ruger Mark III target pistol that has a bit of slack and a tiny bit of trigger creep. Were I competing with the gun, I'd pay a smith to take out the trigger creep. Aren't you prohibited form possessing firearms in Maryland? Too bad you moved out of Virginia. If you had stayed in Virginia you could have continued to kill stumpy on a weekly basis. Bertie! You are still here? I guess you aren't filtered yet on my iPhone app. No, **** for brains, I am not prohibited from legally buying regulated firearms in Maryland. I just bought a new revolver that will be shipped soon to a local FFL. You should cut back on those Bircher fantasies about me. Why don't you go apply for a Maryland carry permit? Oh darn... *you* can't get one. 😟 Has the IRS come to audit your books yet, ****? |
Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/12/14, 2:53 AM, Califbill wrote: F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote: H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. No, I am not. Then, you describing the person pulling the trigger? Slack usually is described as the rearward movement of the trigger before it engages the sear. Trigger creep describes the rearward movement of the trigger after the sear is engaged and before the gun mechanism fires the round. It's not roughness, it's distance. "Roughness" is another aspect of trigger pull. You can have trigger creep without roughness in the trigger mechanisms. Roughness you can actually feel in the mechanism usually is a telltale sign of a poorly finished gun. The custom CZ I sold had no slack or trigger creep. The S&Ws at the range, as I noted above, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers did not. Perhaps the S&Ws had seen a lot more use than the Rugers A good gunsmith who knows how to use stones can usually get rid of trigger creep. I have a Ruger Mark III target pistol that has a bit of slack and a tiny bit of trigger creep. Were I competing with the gun, I'd pay a smith to take out the trigger creep. No trigger creep, would be the proverbial "hair trigger". Not wanted, and dangerous! |
Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
On 4/14/14, 12:16 AM, Califbill wrote:
F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/12/14, 2:53 AM, Califbill wrote: F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote: H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. No, I am not. Then, you describing the person pulling the trigger? Slack usually is described as the rearward movement of the trigger before it engages the sear. Trigger creep describes the rearward movement of the trigger after the sear is engaged and before the gun mechanism fires the round. It's not roughness, it's distance. "Roughness" is another aspect of trigger pull. You can have trigger creep without roughness in the trigger mechanisms. Roughness you can actually feel in the mechanism usually is a telltale sign of a poorly finished gun. The custom CZ I sold had no slack or trigger creep. The S&Ws at the range, as I noted above, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers did not. Perhaps the S&Ws had seen a lot more use than the Rugers A good gunsmith who knows how to use stones can usually get rid of trigger creep. I have a Ruger Mark III target pistol that has a bit of slack and a tiny bit of trigger creep. Were I competing with the gun, I'd pay a smith to take out the trigger creep. No trigger creep, would be the proverbial "hair trigger". Not wanted, and dangerous! Try shooting USPSA with semi-auto suffering from trigger creep. You'll never win. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-2_8X5eg3uE Or in the really big leagues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEXJrgugePI No trigger creep in these firearms. |
Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
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Update to Maryland firearm purchase...
On 4/14/2014 6:50 AM, F*O*A*D wrote:
On 4/14/14, 12:16 AM, Califbill wrote: F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/12/14, 2:53 AM, Califbill wrote: F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 10:23 PM, Califbill wrote: H*a*r*r*o*l*d wrote: On 4/11/2014 4:35 PM, F*O*A*D wrote: On 4/11/14, 2:51 PM, Mr. Luddite wrote: On 4/11/2014 11:07 AM, F*O*A*D wrote: In the past if you wanted to buy a modern firearm here, you filled out a couple of forms at the gunshop. If the purchase was a rifle or shotgun, the usual phone background check was made and if you were ok, you took the gun home that day. If you were buying a handgun, you had to wait seven to 10 business days while the state police completed an additional background check. Simple enough. Now, there's another layer. If you are a civilian with no military background and you are not a cop, you have to obtain a state Handgun Qualification License (HQL), and there are several variables. First time purchasers of handguns have to show proof they've taken a qualifying handgun training course. I think that is a good idea. Those without an existing carry permit also have to have submitted on their behalf ($50) a set of electronic fingerprints taken by a couple of local sheriff offices or by commercial vendors. Everyone has to get the HQL and some get a pass on the training and fingerprinting. It takes the state about a week to issue the HQL. The net effect is that the costs involved in obtaining a handgun have gone up and are now about $100 if you have to get fingerprinted, and another $25 if you have to get training, and the new processes add about two weeks to getting the final OK from the staties. Still not as onerous as in Massachusetts. Requirements here have been for years: 1. Proof of attending NRA approved safety course. 2. Two classes of handgun permits, Class A and Class B. Class A is for concealed carry and for all lawful, large capacity firearms. MA restricts what "large capacity" is however, typically no more than 10 rounds. Class "B" is home defense and for transporting to shooting ranges and certain hunting activities. No concealed carry. 3. The issuance of a Class "A" is up to the local police department. You must have a good reason for a Class A, concealed carry permit. 4. In all permit classes, the local police chief can put restrictions on the license, i.e. hunting only or whatever suits his fancy. 5. Mug shots and fingerprinting mandatory. Background check performed by State Police. No prior court convictions other than minor traffic violations. It can take up to 8-9 weeks to receive an approved permit. Some people have waited for several months. Well, that's a bit more than we have to go through here, but not a lot more, other than the time period. I ended up ordering a Ruger revolver after trying out a few Rugers and S&W's on the range. Both brands are finished nicely, the way you would expect them to be, with the Smiths maybe a tiny bit better. Both brands of revolver locked up as tight as you would want. I did notice, though, that the three S&W's I tried, one new, two used, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers, again two used, one new, did not. Typically, I'd have to pay a gunsmith $100-$125 to tune up the action to get rid of the trigger creep and smooth out the action. What's trigger creep? Probably not what he is describing. Creep is travel distance after you get some resistance, Slack is distance before and resistance. He is probably referring to creep as roughness during the resistance travel. No, I am not. Then, you describing the person pulling the trigger? Slack usually is described as the rearward movement of the trigger before it engages the sear. Trigger creep describes the rearward movement of the trigger after the sear is engaged and before the gun mechanism fires the round. It's not roughness, it's distance. "Roughness" is another aspect of trigger pull. You can have trigger creep without roughness in the trigger mechanisms. Roughness you can actually feel in the mechanism usually is a telltale sign of a poorly finished gun. The custom CZ I sold had no slack or trigger creep. The S&Ws at the range, as I noted above, had a bit of trigger creep. The Rugers did not. Perhaps the S&Ws had seen a lot more use than the Rugers A good gunsmith who knows how to use stones can usually get rid of trigger creep. I have a Ruger Mark III target pistol that has a bit of slack and a tiny bit of trigger creep. Were I competing with the gun, I'd pay a smith to take out the trigger creep. No trigger creep, would be the proverbial "hair trigger". Not wanted, and dangerous! Try shooting USPSA with semi-auto suffering from trigger creep. You'll never win. What is trigger creep? Is it contagious? |
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