On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that
solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/
in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can
work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid
copper wire instead of stranded. There is nothing wrong with a good
crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. One of the
secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire
pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the
connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-800wi

On Sunday, 12 May 2013 18:09:15 UTC-3, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim

wrote:



though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that

solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/

in them.



=======



The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can

work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid

copper wire instead of stranded. There is nothing wrong with a good

crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. One of the

secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire

pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the

connector.



http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-800wi

Last year we changed phone/internet/tv provider from a local company to Bell.
The installers didn't use a loup and didn't properly caulk the entry point of the optical fibre cable.
Water leaked into my house and the phone company's insurance had to make good on repairs.
You'd think the young installers would know better.

On May 12, 5:17*pm, True North wrote:
On Sunday, 12 May 2013 18:09:15 UTC-3, Wayne B *wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim

wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that

solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/

in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can

work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid

copper wire instead of stranded. * There is nothing wrong with a good

crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. *One of the

secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire

pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the

connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-....

Last year we changed phone/internet/tv provider from a local company to Bell.
The installers didn't use a loup and didn't properly caulk the entry point of the optical fibre cable.
Water leaked into my house and the phone company's insurance had to make good on repairs.
You'd think the young installers would know better.

" Fiber Optics " by Bell are a complete LIE. But YOU go on believing
it, you dumb****....LMAO

You would believe that....HAhahahahahahahahahahaha

In article ,
says...

On Sunday, 12 May 2013 18:09:15 UTC-3, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim

wrote:



though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that

solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/

in them.



=======



The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can

work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid

copper wire instead of stranded. There is nothing wrong with a good

crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. One of the

secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire

pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the

connector.



http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-800wi

Last year we changed phone/internet/tv provider from a local company to Bell.
The installers didn't use a loup and didn't properly caulk the entry point of the optical fibre cable.
Water leaked into my house and the phone company's insurance had to make good on repairs.
You'd think the young installers would know better.

The first thing they learn is how to make a good 4" diameter drip loop!

On May 12, 4:09*pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that
solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/
in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can
work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid
copper wire instead of stranded. * There is nothing wrong with a good
crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. *One of the
secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire
pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the
connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-...

Oh, I do understand that, but i understand what I do. And what I do
seems to work well for me. then again, What i do on wiring, isn't
really a strategic process, but in some cases, the ' keeping dry'
is.
I've had wire crimped well into a connector and with a matter of
simple humidity, still corrode over rime making the connection
useless.

I do understand the 'hard spot' theory, but I also understand
anchoring the wire is important as well.

?;^ D

On 5/12/2013 5:27 PM, Tim wrote:
On May 12, 4:09 pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that
solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/
in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can
work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid
copper wire instead of stranded. There is nothing wrong with a good
crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. One of the
secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire
pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the
connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-...

Oh, I do understand that, but i understand what I do. And what I do
seems to work well for me. then again, What i do on wiring, isn't
really a strategic process, but in some cases, the ' keeping dry'
is.
I've had wire crimped well into a connector and with a matter of
simple humidity, still corrode over rime making the connection
useless.

I do understand the 'hard spot' theory, but I also understand
anchoring the wire is important as well.

?;^ D

The primary consideration is a strong mechanical connection (crimp).
Soldering has limited value except in high current situations. The best
corrosion prevention starts with tinned wire. followed by waterproofing
the connection.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 18:13:03 -0400, Hank©
wrote:

The best
corrosion prevention starts with tinned wire. followed by waterproofing
the connection.

====


The wiring n my old Bertram 33 was like that, done to near military
aviation standards. Never had any problems with it.

On May 12, 5:13*pm, Hank© wrote:
On 5/12/2013 5:27 PM, Tim wrote:







On May 12, 4:09 pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that
solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/
in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can
work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid
copper wire instead of stranded. * There is nothing wrong with a good
crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. *One of the
secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire
pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the
connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-....

Oh, I do understand that, but i understand what I do. And what I do
seems to work well for me. then again, What i do on wiring, isn't
really a strategic process, but *in some cases, the ' keeping dry'
is.
* I've had wire crimped well into a connector and with a matter of
simple humidity, still corrode over rime making the connection
useless.

I do understand the 'hard spot' theory, but I also understand
anchoring the wire is important as well.

?;^ D

The primary consideration is a strong mechanical connection (crimp).
Soldering has limited value except in high current situations. The best
corrosion prevention starts with tinned wire. followed by waterproofing
the connection.

Leece Neville rectifiers have had crimped and soldered connections for
50 years. on the 70a. up to the 200a. 12v. .units.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11912.jpg

I've never seen a soldered connection in the end of the wire go bad.
I've seen diodes blow up and insulation burnt clean down to the bone,
but never a bad connection on the rings

Same way with the ones used on that big block 320a. unit that Wayne is
presently using.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11913.jpg

However it was found that the diodes in the 225 to 320 a. units
didn't have enough strength for reliability for the demanding loads
that the unit was designed for. . With improved design and
manufacturing techniques, the status is to use diodes that don't use
leads but rather, are welded to copper bars in a rigid assembly which
tends to be a superior update.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Leece-Neville-4800-4900-Alternator-Positive-Rectifier-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/$T2eC16NHJG8E9nyfmYkKBQbwRE%29pO!~~60_35.JPG

On 5/12/2013 11:32 PM, Tim wrote:
On May 12, 5:13 pm, Hank© wrote:
On 5/12/2013 5:27 PM, Tim wrote:







On May 12, 4:09 pm, Wayne B wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:52:22 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

though some here have disputed the practice, I still say that
solderless crimp connections always work best with a drop of solder on/
in them.

=======

The experts say no because the solder creates a "hard spot" which can
work harden and break after repeated vibration, same as using solid
copper wire instead of stranded. There is nothing wrong with a good
crimped connection if it is made properly and kept dry. One of the
secrets to keeping it dry are to always install them with the wire
pointed downward, and/or have a drip loop within an inch or two of the
connector.

http://captnpauley.typepad.com/.a/6a0111685112b3970c0105371a237d970b-...

Oh, I do understand that, but i understand what I do. And what I do
seems to work well for me. then again, What i do on wiring, isn't
really a strategic process, but in some cases, the ' keeping dry'
is.
I've had wire crimped well into a connector and with a matter of
simple humidity, still corrode over rime making the connection
useless.

I do understand the 'hard spot' theory, but I also understand
anchoring the wire is important as well.

?;^ D

The primary consideration is a strong mechanical connection (crimp).
Soldering has limited value except in high current situations. The best
corrosion prevention starts with tinned wire. followed by waterproofing
the connection.

Leece Neville rectifiers have had crimped and soldered connections for
50 years. on the 70a. up to the 200a. 12v. .units.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11912.jpg

I've never seen a soldered connection in the end of the wire go bad.
I've seen diodes blow up and insulation burnt clean down to the bone,
but never a bad connection on the rings

Same way with the ones used on that big block 320a. unit that Wayne is
presently using.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/ima...tail/11913.jpg

However it was found that the diodes in the 225 to 320 a. units
didn't have enough strength for reliability for the demanding loads
that the unit was designed for. . With improved design and
manufacturing techniques, the status is to use diodes that don't use
leads but rather, are welded to copper bars in a rigid assembly which
tends to be a superior update.

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Leece-Neville-4800-4900-Alternator-Positive-Rectifier-/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/$T2eC16NHJG8E9nyfmYkKBQbwRE%29pO!~~60_35.JPG





I have run across all manor bad solder joints. None of my making, of
course. ;-)