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On 10/5/11 9:53 AM, Eisboch wrote:
"X ` Man" wrote in message ... I'll do light electrical work, such as replacing a wall switch or ceiling fixture, but that's about it. The labor for the new generator involves electricians and a plumber, and the charges for both services are estimated at around $2500. The job has to be permitted, at least as far as the plumbing goes. The genny is an LP gas appliance. I don't mess with installing gas appliances or heavier duty electric, especially when the wiring or pipes are to be concealed. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ The following is typical of a house service backup generator: If your generator supplies 220/240 volts across the hot leads and 115/120 volts between either of the "hot" leads to neutral, the neutral, current carrying conductor does not have to be the same size as the hot leads. It will only carry *half* of the the max generator current at full load. "Why?" you ask? Because the two hot leads (L1 and L2) are 180 degrees out of phase with each other. The current flowing through either L1 or L2 add algebraically in the neutral line. A 240 v powered device in your house draws *no* current through the neutral line. If you have two 120 volt appliances, one operating from L1 to neutral and the other L2 to neutral and both draw 10 amperes, the current in the neutral line is zero. Cool, huh? Eisboch Hehehe...I'll reread your post a few times...right now, all I hear is a "whoosh" sound. -- I'll believe corporations are people when Texas executes one. |
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