Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On Aug 17, 11:01*pm, Tim wrote:
This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested *running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. *I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent *and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. *plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. *but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

It is a pretty cool idea. How much s it?

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On Aug 18, 2:30*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Aug 2011 04:58:14 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc









wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:01*pm, Tim wrote:
This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested *running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. *I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent *and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. *plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. *but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

It is a pretty cool idea. *How much s it?

A hell of a lot more than just a couple of headlamps and a SPST
switch. Why do people always look for the most complex solution to the
simplest problem?

maybe some people want more standard reliability and less Goldberging.

?;^ )

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On Aug 18, 6:58*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:01*pm, Tim wrote:









This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested *running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. *I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent *and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. *plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. *but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

It is a pretty cool idea. *How much s it?

I think he said the basic kit was about $175.00 , which in todays
world isn't really that much.

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On Aug 18, 8:35*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Aug 2011 16:18:58 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:









On Aug 18, 2:30*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Aug 2011 04:58:14 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc

wrote:
On Aug 17, 11:01*pm, Tim wrote:
This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested *running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator..
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. *I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent *and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. *plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. *but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

It is a pretty cool idea. *How much s it?

A hell of a lot more than just a couple of headlamps and a SPST
switch. Why do people always look for the most complex solution to the
simplest problem?

maybe some people want more standard reliability and less Goldberging.

?;^ )

Buying a suspicious black box with unknown failsafe capability might
not be "standard reliability" in reality.

What could be more reliable than two headlamps and a SPDT switch?

Oh, probably nothing, but tell you what. You do it your way and I'll
do it mine.

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

"Tim" wrote in message
...

This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.


Reply:
If you are going to generate 110v from the engine to run a charger, just buy
a charger than will handle 2 12 volt batteries. Just clip the leads to each
battery. Bass Pro, Cabela's all carry multibank chargers.

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On Aug 19, 12:00*am, "Califbill" wrote:
"Tim" *wrote in message

...

This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested *running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. *I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent *and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. *plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. *but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

Reply:
If you are going to generate 110v from the engine to run a charger, just buy
a charger than will handle 2 12 volt batteries. *Just clip the leads to each
battery. *Bass Pro, Cabela's all carry multibank chargers.

Bill, the guy already had a 24v charger that came with the trolling
motor, the problem was that he didn't have shore power, so he had to
haul out the batteries and charge them which was a pretty good
distance.

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On Aug 19, 8:01*am, Tim wrote:
On Aug 19, 12:00*am, "Califbill" wrote:





"Tim" *wrote in message

....

This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested *running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. *I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent *and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. *plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. *but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

Reply:
If you are going to generate 110v from the engine to run a charger, just buy
a charger than will handle 2 12 volt batteries. *Just clip the leads to each
battery. *Bass Pro, Cabela's all carry multibank chargers.

Bill, the guy already had a 24v charger that came with the trolling
motor, the problem was that he didn't have shore power, so he had to
haul out the batteries and charge them which was a pretty good
distance.

What about this? $100

http://www.yandina.com/Troll24Help.htm

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On 8/19/2011 8:01 AM, Tim wrote:
On Aug 19, 12:00 am, wrote:
"Tim" wrote in message

...

This has always been a problem with running a 24v system and expecting
it to charge from a 12 v engine battery.

I suggested running a battery isolator connected to a third battery
(house battery), a 2000w mod. sine wave power inverter to step up from
12v DC to 120v AC,then using the 120v charger to fill the trollers
BTW, the charger would be 24v, supplying each battery (2-12v series)
@10a. each . I had it all drawn out, but the 'client' didn't want to
disturb his origional engine wiring to install the battery isolator.
No problem, after all it's his boat and not mine. Evidently it
wouldn't be do-it-yourself friendly enough for him, besides extra
weight and equipment etc, etc....

Then just recently he sen't me a link to this:

http://atkinsonelectronics.com/manuf...fs/MBCM-24.pdf

After reviewing the products schematic, I gave my opinion. FWIW

"I like it. I like everything about it. I see exactly what they're
doing and it makes a lot of sense. The trolling batteries are now
independent and the unit itself does the switch over instead of
having them hard wired in series with each other. I studied out the
first two tables, and it's simple to install. no modification to the
original wiring harness is necessary. Just a bolt-on operation. plus,
if necessary, you can jump start the engine battery from the trollers
if need be.

I dont' know how much extra is the 'auto-start' feature is,and I don't
know how necessary it would be but I thought that was cool too.
Batteries get low and you can have the engine start itself for
charging. Of course, the start up engine noise might scare off some
fish at the wrong moment, but....

Also, I'm not sure how much of a charge rate you'd actually get in the
trollers if you're only running a short distance. If you're only out a
couple miles out and run the trollers flat, I'm not sure if running
back that two miles would give a sufficient charge to them, because
now you're maintaining 3 batteries, instead of one. but then again.
it's trial and error on that part.

But I think these guys are on to something, and no more than it really
costs I don't think you could go wrong with it.

Just my simple opinion. and thanks for the link. it's interesting!"

Tim

So... I did some more looking around and have found that these have
some pretty good independent reviews. Not mere company propaganda.

So if you're trying to charge 24v out of 12v. this might be the way to
go.

Jsut thought I'd pass this along.

Reply:
If you are going to generate 110v from the engine to run a charger, just buy
a charger than will handle 2 12 volt batteries. Just clip the leads to each
battery. Bass Pro, Cabela's all carry multibank chargers.

Bill, the guy already had a 24v charger that came with the trolling
motor, the problem was that he didn't have shore power, so he had to
haul out the batteries and charge them which was a pretty good
distance.

Yo Tim,
Looks like you are planning to charge the deep cycles with your
alternator. It's probably going to take quite a bit of engine run time
to charge the deep cycles. Will your client be putting in enough engine
hours to do the job between uses of the trolling motor?

Charging 24 volt trolling batteries with a 12 volt system.
 

On Fri, 19 Aug 2011 05:24:16 -0700 (PDT), stp
wrote:

What about this? $100

http://www.yandina.com/Troll24Help.htm

========

Exact same concept as the product Tim mentioned: Batteries in paralell
for charging; Automatic switch over to a series connection when not
charging.