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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote:
In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things... hydraulic lifters |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 19, 7:55*am, Florida Jim wrote:
On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote: In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve *wrote in message .... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 *wrote in message .... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module.. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things.... hydraulic lifters- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - True that. Non-adjustable as well. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
In article ec1091dc-01e3-41fd-9ad9-
, says... On Jul 19, 7:55*am, Florida Jim wrote: On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote: In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve *wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 *wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things... hydraulic lifters- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - True that. Non-adjustable as well. Oooops... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote:
engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 19, 9:20*am, Florida Jim wrote:
On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve *wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 *wrote in message .... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/19/2011 10:57 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 19, 9:20 am, Florida wrote: On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. It could be heat related but removing the cover still leaves a lot of doors open for consideration. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:11:39 -0400, Florida Jim wrote:
On 7/19/2011 10:57 AM, jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 19, 9:20 am, Florida wrote: On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. It could be heat related but removing the cover still leaves a lot of doors open for consideration. Y'all must've missed this. engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve It was top posted. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 19, 11:14*am, John H wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:11:39 -0400, Florida Jim wrote: On 7/19/2011 10:57 AM, jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 19, 9:20 am, Florida *wrote: On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve * *wrote in message .... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, * *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 * *wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc * *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose.. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got *a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. *It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. *But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. It could be heat related but removing the cover still leaves a lot of doors open for consideration. Y'all must've missed this. engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve It was top posted.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yep, I did miss that. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
"I_am_Tosk" wrote in message
... In article ec1091dc-01e3-41fd-9ad9- , says... On Jul 19, 7:55 am, Florida Jim wrote: On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote: In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things... hydraulic lifters- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - True that. Non-adjustable as well. Oooops... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! Reply: Collapsed lifter? |
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