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3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote:
In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things... hydraulic lifters |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 19, 7:55*am, Florida Jim wrote:
On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote: In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve *wrote in message .... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 *wrote in message .... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module.. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem..- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things.... hydraulic lifters- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - True that. Non-adjustable as well. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
In article ec1091dc-01e3-41fd-9ad9-
, says... On Jul 19, 7:55*am, Florida Jim wrote: On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote: In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve *wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 *wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things... hydraulic lifters- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - True that. Non-adjustable as well. Oooops... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote:
engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 19, 9:20*am, Florida Jim wrote:
On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve *wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 *wrote in message .... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 7/19/2011 10:57 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jul 19, 9:20 am, Florida wrote: On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. It could be heat related but removing the cover still leaves a lot of doors open for consideration. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:11:39 -0400, Florida Jim wrote:
On 7/19/2011 10:57 AM, jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 19, 9:20 am, Florida wrote: On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. It could be heat related but removing the cover still leaves a lot of doors open for consideration. Y'all must've missed this. engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve It was top posted. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Jul 19, 11:14*am, John H wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jul 2011 11:11:39 -0400, Florida Jim wrote: On 7/19/2011 10:57 AM, jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 19, 9:20 am, Florida *wrote: On 7/19/2011 6:25 AM, Steve wrote: engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve * *wrote in message .... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, * *wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 * *wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc * *wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc *From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. *Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. *Since late 80s I think. *I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. *The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. *Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. *Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. *Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- You can visually inspect that. It's just a ball and spring. Can we assume you removed the pickup tube and inspected it for a clogged screen or pin holes? You can eliminate the vent by leaving the gas cap loose.. Collapsing rubber fuel lines are sometimes hard to detect; especially if the hose has delaminated. If you have a spin on fuel filter, you can remove it when the engine stalls and see if it's full of gas. You can dump the gas from the filter into a glass container and see if it's contaminated with sediment or water. The fuel system fittings up to the fuel pump must be air tight or you won't get good suction. Did you weigh the float in the carb. and check the float level adjustment? Did you replace the carb. inlet filter? Is your flame arrestor clean? If the metal fuel line runs to close to the hot engine you can put a bit of insulation on it. The thermostat must be functioning for the engine to run properly. Did you fix it? Is the choke operating properly. Electrically you have the ignition module, trigger module, coil, coil tower lead, and neutral safety switch. The manual might have some test procedures, otherwise it's swap them out. Most of this has been said before but you still have a problem. You need to go back to square one and start over. Good luck.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - He's got *a rather specific symptom that points to the most likely cause being a heat issue. *It runs fine for a good part of the day and then starts failing to idle. *But still runs ok at higher rpms. Starting it the next day before adding more gas and it idles fine. He's already replaced or rebuilt a lot of stuff with no effect on this problem. I suggested multiple times he use it for a day with the engine cover off. It could be heat related but removing the cover still leaves a lot of doors open for consideration. Y'all must've missed this. engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve It was top posted.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yep, I did miss that. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
"I_am_Tosk" wrote in message
... In article ec1091dc-01e3-41fd-9ad9- , says... On Jul 19, 7:55 am, Florida Jim wrote: On 7/19/2011 7:51 AM, I_am_Tosk wrote: In , says... engine cover off, no go. started acting up again. What about the antisiphon valve? Thanks Steve wrote in message ... On Jul 16, 5:49 pm, wrote: I looked up the numbers on the module, its the same module that is used on all gm igntions systems. Remember this is a 2005 with the electronic iginition. There is no mechanical advance or vacuum advance. it is all done in the module.. As far as the coil goes, I looked up the numbers off the coil, same coil (different mount) as a coil off of a 1987-1994 gm blazer or anything with the 4.3 v6 OR the small block V8 wrote in message ... On Jul 15, 2:09 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 10:41:07 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc wrote: On Jul 15, 12:54 pm, wrote: On Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:24:15 -0700 (PDT), jamesgangnc From a car? How did you manage to get a car electronic ignition to work on a merc? Not saying it can't be done but why? Why not. These I/Os are basically just auto/truck engines with marinized parts where they might spark. (alternators starters etc)- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, but the trigger and the trigger module are generally designed to work as a pair. And on boats there is no vacuum advance and often no mechanical advance either. All the advance is handled by the module. On cars the vacuum advance was used because the engine load is not consistent like it is on a boat. Then all of that changed completely when cars went to computerized spark controls. Could you make a car one from the era when cars still had them work, sure. But it's not just going to plug in to the thunderbolt connector. I got the impression he was just testing to diagnose an idle problem.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - And I was asking how exactly he did that. He said he used a car module. Well the only ignition module I know of that plugs into the merc harness is the merc thunderbolt one. And you won't get the merc one off a car. So I wanted more details. No matter why he did it I don't understand how he did it. --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yes, I realized it was electronic ignition. Merc has had electronic ignition for a pretty long time. Since late 80s I think. I didn't know they had started switching over to gm modules, for a long time they made their own thunderbolt module. The early automotive modules still relied on vacuum advance to detect when the engine was under a load at low rpm. Today on cars the computer controls everything and most cars now have gone to individual coil/module packs per spark plug. I still would put the electronics at the bottom of my list. Heat associated failure of electronics is generally always total failure until it cools back down. I still suspect heat soak of something though. Did you try leaving the engine cover off for a day to see if that delays or eliminates the problem? --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Still wondering what it takes to check the valve lash on these things... hydraulic lifters- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - True that. Non-adjustable as well. Oooops... -- Team Rowdy Mouse, Banned from the Mall for life! Reply: Collapsed lifter? |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Monday, July 11, 2011 at 11:02:13 AM UTC+1, Steve wrote:
Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Well, sounds very similar to an issue I have at the moment.... so breaking it down 1. Forget the shutter. if it can be traced to "Only" when the engine is hot, then forget this. 2. Same with the electronic ignition components.. i.e. if it is going to fail, you will not be running at any RPM let alone high speeds. 3. Valves... here is one possibility; either adjusted too tight causing them (or at least one of them)to remain slightly open when the components are hot, then returning to running fine when cool again. Add this to cylinder head work having been done, and you have a strong possibility. Before you get all down and deep on compression analysis, try adjusting them to spec. 4. Carb, yes, possibly if you have dirt,water etc floating around in the system, but you mentioned that you had cleaned the system, and I assume you didn't just mean the carb, so unlikely. 5. Cyl head gasket, again unlikely if it is only happening while hot. One point to mention here though: if you are replacing a head gasket I recommend the use of Blue Hylomar (this will take care of any imperfections). 6. Thermostat, unlikely since you have not mentioned any association with excessive temp. 7. Impeller, again unlikely since you have not mentioned any association with excessive temp. 8. So, now to one obscure possibility, assuming all else is good..... tank vacuum; is your fuel tank breathing properly? or is it under vacuum after running a while. I only say this in case your valves are found to be fine. If the breather in your tank is blocked/restricted it will lead you to believe the issue is due to your engine being hot, when in fact it is just down to the running time (fuel consumption/hr) and nothing at all to do with temperature (Since you have not mentioned "High" temp, I am going to assume again the temp is fine). This situation will only show itself after the engine has been performing, so no use trying to sit at the jetty all day trying to troubleshoot, it Must be under load (i.e. using plenty of fuel). again like the valves, once it has been left for some time the situation returns to normal. So, to summarise; you have 2 possibilities left: VALVES, OR FUEL TANK. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 6/1/2016 11:15 AM, wrote:
On Monday, July 11, 2011 at 11:02:13 AM UTC+1, Steve wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Well, sounds very similar to an issue I have at the moment.... so breaking it down 1. Forget the shutter. if it can be traced to "Only" when the engine is hot, then forget this. 2. Same with the electronic ignition components.. i.e. if it is going to fail, you will not be running at any RPM let alone high speeds. 3. Valves... here is one possibility; either adjusted too tight causing them (or at least one of them)to remain slightly open when the components are hot, then returning to running fine when cool again. Add this to cylinder head work having been done, and you have a strong possibility. Before you get all down and deep on compression analysis, try adjusting them to spec. 4. Carb, yes, possibly if you have dirt,water etc floating around in the system, but you mentioned that you had cleaned the system, and I assume you didn't just mean the carb, so unlikely. 5. Cyl head gasket, again unlikely if it is only happening while hot. One point to mention here though: if you are replacing a head gasket I recommend the use of Blue Hylomar (this will take care of any imperfections). 6. Thermostat, unlikely since you have not mentioned any association with excessive temp. 7. Impeller, again unlikely since you have not mentioned any association with excessive temp. 8. So, now to one obscure possibility, assuming all else is good..... tank vacuum; is your fuel tank breathing properly? or is it under vacuum after running a while. I only say this in case your valves are found to be fine. If the breather in your tank is blocked/restricted it will lead you to believe the issue is due to your engine being hot, when in fact it is just down to the running time (fuel consumption/hr) and nothing at all to do with temperature (Since you have not mentioned "High" temp, I am going to assume again the temp is fine). This situation will only show itself after the engine has been performing, so no use trying to sit at the jetty all day trying to troubleshoot, it Must be under load (i.e. using plenty of fuel). again like the valves, once it has been left for some time the situation returns to normal. So, to summarise; you have 2 possibilities left: VALVES, OR FUEL TANK. Rebuild the carb again and check idle mixture. Check engine operating temp low or high. I think you would notice a tank vacuum problem while running under load. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
Justan Olphart wrote:
On 6/1/2016 11:15 AM, wrote: On Monday, July 11, 2011 at 11:02:13 AM UTC+1, Steve wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- Well, sounds very similar to an issue I have at the moment.... so breaking it down 1. Forget the shutter. if it can be traced to "Only" when the engine is hot, then forget this. 2. Same with the electronic ignition components.. i.e. if it is going to fail, you will not be running at any RPM let alone high speeds. 3. Valves... here is one possibility; either adjusted too tight causing them (or at least one of them)to remain slightly open when the components are hot, then returning to running fine when cool again. Add this to cylinder head work having been done, and you have a strong possibility. Before you get all down and deep on compression analysis, try adjusting them to spec. 4. Carb, yes, possibly if you have dirt,water etc floating around in the system, but you mentioned that you had cleaned the system, and I assume you didn't just mean the carb, so unlikely. 5. Cyl head gasket, again unlikely if it is only happening while hot. One point to mention here though: if you are replacing a head gasket I recommend the use of Blue Hylomar (this will take care of any imperfections). 6. Thermostat, unlikely since you have not mentioned any association with excessive temp. 7. Impeller, again unlikely since you have not mentioned any association with excessive temp. 8. So, now to one obscure possibility, assuming all else is good..... tank vacuum; is your fuel tank breathing properly? or is it under vacuum after running a while. I only say this in case your valves are found to be fine. If the breather in your tank is blocked/restricted it will lead you to believe the issue is due to your engine being hot, when in fact it is just down to the running time (fuel consumption/hr) and nothing at all to do with temperature (Since you have not mentioned "High" temp, I am going to assume again the temp is fine). This situation will only show itself after the engine has been performing, so no use trying to sit at the jetty all day trying to troubleshoot, it Must be under load (i.e. using plenty of fuel). again like the valves, once it has been left for some time the situation returns to normal. So, to summarise; you have 2 possibilities left: VALVES, OR FUEL TANK. Rebuild the carb again and check idle mixture. Check engine operating temp low or high. I think you would notice a tank vacuum problem while running under load. I would pull the idle jets and make sure they are clean and no detritus in them. Depending on the carb, if the needles are a little sticky. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Wed, 01 Jun 2016 17:44:53 -0500, Califbill
wrote: I would pull the idle jets and make sure they are clean and no detritus in them. Depending on the carb, if the needles are a little sticky. Way back in the olden days the trick was to run the idle jets in all the way, back out them out several turns (one at a time) then rev up the motor and cover the carb throat. The momentary high vacuum would suck the crap out most of the time. Of course if the passages are plugged, that may not work. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
wrote:
On Wed, 01 Jun 2016 17:44:53 -0500, Califbill wrote: I would pull the idle jets and make sure they are clean and no detritus in them. Depending on the carb, if the needles are a little sticky. Way back in the olden days the trick was to run the idle jets in all the way, back out them out several turns (one at a time) then rev up the motor and cover the carb throat. The momentary high vacuum would suck the crap out most of the time. Of course if the passages are plugged, that may not work. My T-8 Yamaha, has such small jets that the smallest piece of junk van screw up the low speed jet. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 00:03:37 -0500, Califbill
wrote: wrote: On Wed, 01 Jun 2016 17:44:53 -0500, Califbill wrote: I would pull the idle jets and make sure they are clean and no detritus in them. Depending on the carb, if the needles are a little sticky. Way back in the olden days the trick was to run the idle jets in all the way, back out them out several turns (one at a time) then rev up the motor and cover the carb throat. The momentary high vacuum would suck the crap out most of the time. Of course if the passages are plugged, that may not work. My T-8 Yamaha, has such small jets that the smallest piece of junk van screw up the low speed jet. I imagine that 3.0 uses a very simple automotive type carb. Until pretty recently boats used carbs similar to what you would see in a 67 Chevy because there was no real emission control. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
|
3.0 wont idle but runs great
Anyone notice the date on this original post? " Oh yes John. By being on google boats I always see the date and somebody probably did a search and this thread popped up. They reply to it then the thread resurfaces from the muck. I like it. Same with Philip and his oars. I like that one too! |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:54:32 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote:
Anyone notice the date on this original post? " Oh yes John. By being on google boats I always see the date and somebody probably did a search and this thread popped up. They reply to it then the thread resurfaces from the muck. I like it. Same with Philip and his oars. I like that one too! Hope he posts some pics. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 11:40:13 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote: On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:54:32 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: Anyone notice the date on this original post? " Oh yes John. By being on google boats I always see the date and somebody probably did a search and this thread popped up. They reply to it then the thread resurfaces from the muck. I like it. Same with Philip and his oars. I like that one too! Hope he posts some pics. Sometimes I get the idea it must be hard to start a new thread with some of these internet portals since so many people will just start a new question on an old thread. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
|
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 12:22:57 -0400, Poquito Loco
wrote: On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 12:12:56 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 11:40:13 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:54:32 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: Anyone notice the date on this original post? " Oh yes John. By being on google boats I always see the date and somebody probably did a search and this thread popped up. They reply to it then the thread resurfaces from the muck. I like it. Same with Philip and his oars. I like that one too! Hope he posts some pics. Sometimes I get the idea it must be hard to start a new thread with some of these internet portals since so many people will just start a new question on an old thread. Which is OK unless they expect the original poster to still be around. It could be they're doing a search in the google group to see if their question's already been asked. Maybe Google does not make the date apparent. I don't really pay that much attention to the date either. If they do not quote the original note, you may not even know. I purge the database frequently so I can't go too far back. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 6/2/2016 9:40 AM, Poquito Loco wrote:
On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 08:15:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Monday, July 11, 2011 at 11:02:13 AM UTC+1, Steve wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve Anyone notice the date on this original post? Hope our advice doesn't reach him to late. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 6/2/2016 10:54 AM, Tim wrote:
Anyone notice the date on this original post? " Oh yes John. By being on google boats I always see the date and somebody probably did a search and this thread popped up. They reply to it then the thread resurfaces from the muck. I like it. Same with Philip and his oars. I like that one too! There's a couple or three guys here who don't have both oars in the water. Most of us know who they are. ;-) |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On 6/2/2016 1:48 PM, Justan Olphart wrote:
On 6/2/2016 9:40 AM, Poquito Loco wrote: On Wed, 1 Jun 2016 08:15:20 -0700 (PDT), wrote: On Monday, July 11, 2011 at 11:02:13 AM UTC+1, Steve wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve Anyone notice the date on this original post? Hope our advice doesn't reach him to late. make that too. We don't want Donnie to have a spasm. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 13:46:21 -0400, wrote:
On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 12:22:57 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 12:12:56 -0400, wrote: On Thu, 02 Jun 2016 11:40:13 -0400, Poquito Loco wrote: On Thu, 2 Jun 2016 07:54:32 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: Anyone notice the date on this original post? " Oh yes John. By being on google boats I always see the date and somebody probably did a search and this thread popped up. They reply to it then the thread resurfaces from the muck. I like it. Same with Philip and his oars. I like that one too! Hope he posts some pics. Sometimes I get the idea it must be hard to start a new thread with some of these internet portals since so many people will just start a new question on an old thread. Which is OK unless they expect the original poster to still be around. It could be they're doing a search in the google group to see if their question's already been asked. Maybe Google does not make the date apparent. I don't really pay that much attention to the date either. If they do not quote the original note, you may not even know. I purge the database frequently so I can't go too far back. Click this and you'll see what it looks like on Google. https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=...ts/Mi-RufFKphw Date is on the right. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Monday, July 11, 2011 at 6:02:13 AM UTC-4, Steve wrote:
Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- I'm seeing the same thing - my 2008 Bayliner 195 with the Merc 3.0 has been in storage for about 10 months. I Winterized it properly. After charing the battery, it runs great, but will not idle below about 2000 rpm. I have no clue.... |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Mon, 2 Oct 2017 09:59:55 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
On Monday, July 11, 2011 at 6:02:13 AM UTC-4, Steve wrote: Hey all, I have a 2005 3.0l mercruiser sterndrive that is acting wierd. It will run all day long, runs great, but at the end of the day, it refuses to idle, it just dies on me. Start it back up and it will run full throttle just fine, but try to idle and it dies. If I let it sit for a day or two, it goes back to running normal. So far I have rebuilt the carb, rebuilt the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel filter. checked for water in the gas, put another ingnition module in, replaced the coil. Im out of things to do. What am I missing? Thanks Steve --- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to --- I'm seeing the same thing - my 2008 Bayliner 195 with the Merc 3.0 has been in storage for about 10 months. I Winterized it properly. After charing the battery, it runs great, but will not idle below about 2000 rpm. I have no clue.... Usually this is the idle passages plugged up in the carb. Take out the idle screw. Don't lose the spring. Shoot generous amounts of carb cleaner in the hole. Reassemble and back out the screws about 2-3 turns. Start the motor rev it up and slam your hand over the intake a few times to create max vacuum and dislodge what the carb cleaner broke loose. Readjust normally and see if it is not better (usually 1/12 turns out is a starting point). If this is EFI, look for an idle air solenoid valve. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
Did you ever figure out why your 3.0 Merc wouldn't idle when warm? I have the same problem. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks
Todd |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
wrote:
Did you ever figure out why your 3.0 Merc wouldn't idle when warm? I have the same problem. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks Todd You probably need a carb cleaning. Low speed idle circuit plugged. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
On Sun, 4 Feb 2018 18:37:35 -0000 (UTC), Bill
wrote: wrote: Did you ever figure out why your 3.0 Merc wouldn't idle when warm? I have the same problem. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks Todd You probably need a carb cleaning. Low speed idle circuit plugged. +1 That sounds like a carb problem to me. If it was an outboard I might have other ideas but this is basically a car that doesn't idle. If this has idle screws, Back them out 2 or 3 turns, crank it up and with it turning 2500 RPM or so, slam your hand over the carb throat. The high vacuum and rich mix *might* suck the crap on through. Then run them back in and back out to the starting point (usually 1 1/2 turns) and adjust from there. |
3.0 wont idle but runs great
wrote:
On Sun, 4 Feb 2018 18:37:35 -0000 (UTC), Bill wrote: wrote: Did you ever figure out why your 3.0 Merc wouldn't idle when warm? I have the same problem. Would appreciate any advice. Thanks Todd You probably need a carb cleaning. Low speed idle circuit plugged. +1 That sounds like a carb problem to me. If it was an outboard I might have other ideas but this is basically a car that doesn't idle. If this has idle screws, Back them out 2 or 3 turns, crank it up and with it turning 2500 RPM or so, slam your hand over the carb throat. The high vacuum and rich mix *might* suck the crap on through. Then run them back in and back out to the starting point (usually 1 1/2 turns) and adjust from there. My T8 Yamaha had same problem. Had a tiny place speck on top of the idle jet when I took the carb apart. Added a good filter just before the carb. Jets are so tiny, that the least bit of detritus plugs them. |
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