On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.

On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:
On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.
I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and
natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a
sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires
would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route?
If none of this makes sense oh well.

Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:
On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.
I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and
natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a
sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires
would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route?
If none of this makes sense oh well.
None of that applies if the trailer is out of the water.

On Mar 25, 7:55*pm, L G wrote:
Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:
On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.

Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.
I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and
natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a
sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires
would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route?
If none of this makes sense oh well.

None of that applies if the trailer is out of the water.

I am really sorta surprised at how much corrosion there is on the
bolts and the springs and much less on the body. I do rinse it after
every use so am not sure why the extreme corrosion. I think the
original bolts were just zinc coated and not really galvanized whereas
the body may have more zinc on it. I will probably replace the
original bolts with hot dipped galvanized so as to minimize dissimilar
metals in contact.

Frogwatch wrote:
On Mar 25, 7:55 pm, L wrote:

Lil Abner wrote:

On 3/25/2011 7:52 AM, OmDeFlume wrote:

On 3/24/2011 11:25 PM, Lil Abner wrote:

On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:

Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?

What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.


Zincs need to be submerged in water to become an anode.

I'm not sure of the science behind it. If moisture, in the air, and
natural electricity was making it to ground it would rust or a
sacrificial anode could take it's place? You would think rubber tires
would insulate it sufficiently but perhaps the jack stand is the route?
If none of this makes sense oh well.

None of that applies if the trailer is out of the water.

I am really sorta surprised at how much corrosion there is on the
bolts and the springs and much less on the body. I do rinse it after
every use so am not sure why the extreme corrosion. I think the
original bolts were just zinc coated and not really galvanized whereas
the body may have more zinc on it. I will probably replace the
original bolts with hot dipped galvanized so as to minimize dissimilar
metals in contact.

Galvanized means they have a zinc coating. There are several types of
galvanization - electro-galvanized is a thin zinc coating. Hot dipped
is much thicker.

One solution to your problem is to carry a pump sprayer filled with
clean water to hit the problem areas after you launch if a hose isn't
available. By the time you rinse it after you retrieve the boat, the
damage has already started.

Lil Abner wrote:
On 3/24/2011 8:57 PM, Frogwatch wrote:
Got my fully tinned wire for my trailer and put it on so now I have
trailer lights again. However while doing it, I found that all of the
bolts and nuts on the trailer are so badly corroded they will not last
another season. I probably need about $100 of stainless hardware to
replace them. I thought EZ Loader was quality but it isn't. What
would a bit of stainless or hot dipped galv bolts have cost them?
What about sacraficial anodes? They come in many sizes and shapes.
Of course you will still have to replace the rusted hdw now.
I don't know that it would work but seems like it should.
They won't help much with a trailer.