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Default Y valve for raw water system

would like to put a Y valve in the raw water cooling line so I dont
have to yank it off the seacock next year during flushing and
winterizing.

the only Y valves i see are for marine heads BUT....i'm an engineer
and NEVER use something for a critical application that's not rated
for that application

anyone have any recommendations about a Y valve for the sal****er side
of the cooling system so i can switch between the seacock and a bucket
for flushing?
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Default Y valve for raw water system

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 18:24:20 -0500, Gene
wrote:

Forgo the "Y" valve for an appropriately rated "T" and 2 proper
valves?


Yes. All you need is a T and one ball valve, assuming you already
have a seacock on the raw water through hull. My old boat was set up
that way and it worked fine. Alternatively you can just close the
seacock and pour antifreeze into the top of the raw water strainer
while the engine is running.

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Default Y valve for raw water system

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 19:58:38 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 18:24:20 -0500, Gene
wrote:

Forgo the "Y" valve for an appropriately rated "T" and 2 proper
valves?


Yes. All you need is a T and one ball valve, assuming you already
have a seacock on the raw water through hull. My old boat was set up
that way and it worked fine. Alternatively you can just close the
seacock and pour antifreeze into the top of the raw water strainer
while the engine is running.


what's a good ball valve for this application? any recommendations?
that arrangement would work
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Default Y valve for raw water system

On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 05:34:55 -0500, bpuharic wrote:

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 19:58:38 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 18:24:20 -0500, Gene
wrote:

Forgo the "Y" valve for an appropriately rated "T" and 2 proper
valves?


Yes. All you need is a T and one ball valve, assuming you already
have a seacock on the raw water through hull. My old boat was set up
that way and it worked fine. Alternatively you can just close the
seacock and pour antifreeze into the top of the raw water strainer
while the engine is running.


what's a good ball valve for this application? any recommendations?
that arrangement would work


http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=622&familyName=Buck-Algonquin+Ball+Valves

The arrangement would look something like this:

SeacockstrainerT-fittingraw water pump (one side of T)
reducerball valvepipe

nipple (second side of T, for attachment of flushing hose or
antifreeze)
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Default Y valve for raw water system

On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 08:04:48 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 05:34:55 -0500, bpuharic wrote:

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 19:58:38 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Nov 2010 18:24:20 -0500, Gene
wrote:

Forgo the "Y" valve for an appropriately rated "T" and 2 proper
valves?

Yes. All you need is a T and one ball valve, assuming you already
have a seacock on the raw water through hull. My old boat was set up
that way and it worked fine. Alternatively you can just close the
seacock and pour antifreeze into the top of the raw water strainer
while the engine is running.


what's a good ball valve for this application? any recommendations?
that arrangement would work


http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=622&familyName=Buck-Algonquin+Ball+Valves

The arrangement would look something like this:

SeacockstrainerT-fittingraw water pump (one side of T)
reducerball valvepipe

nipple (second side of T, for attachment of flushing hose or
antifreeze)



makes alot of sense...thanks much


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Default Y valve for raw water system

On Sat, 13 Nov 2010 08:14:19 -0500, I am Tosk
wrote:

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=622&familyName=Buck-Algonquin+Ball+Valves

The arrangement would look something like this:

SeacockstrainerT-fittingraw water pump (one side of T)
reducerball valvepipe

nipple (second side of T, for attachment of flushing hose or
antifreeze)


I don't know about boats, but under my sinks I like a petcock instead of
a flow valve, just in case something knocks into it.. Too easy to open
or close by accident. Have you ever heard of such a problem on a boat?


These things are usually hidden away where there isn't much chance of
hitting them accidently. Of course the other good thing about ball
valves is that it is intuitively obvious what position the valve is in
just by looking at the handle.

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