jamesgangnc wrote in
:

On Aug 24, 1:40*pm, PD99 wrote:
Help! I recently purchased a 1971 Evinrude 60HP with an ELECTRIC
shift. First time I tried to start it ( with earmuffs in the driveway
) at idle it was not in gear. Somewhere along the line of tinkering
with it, it has locked into reverse. I have been told when the key is
off, it is designed to engage reverse, when key is on - neutral. I
purchased a manual, ( on CD and difficult to manuever in ) found a
section instructing me to ohm the solenoids. They seem to fall in the
5 to 7 ohm range. The unit is still stuck in reverse.

Are the solenoids grounded to the casing?
Should I be able to apply voltage directly to the wires leading to
the lower unit to make them operate?

Also, I removed the bolts, and the trim tab to the lower unit. It
will not budge. Is this because it is stuck in reverse?

PD99

--
PD99

I'd try to find a service manual. Most of the lower units will come
off no matter if they are in gear or not. Need to make absolutely
sure you got all the bolts. Sometimes they can be pretty welll stuck
together if they have not been apart for many years.


Is it stuck in reverse when the engine is running? Do you mean that with
the engine running it will not shift to neutral or forward?

I have a 1969 Evinrude 85hp with the electric shift. These are designed
so that they are in forward with key off or with a dead battery - that
way you can always get home, after a rope start. Neutral and reverse
require pushing the corresponding button. Pushing neutral activates the
first solenoid which pulls it out of forward. Pushing reverse activates
both solenoids which pulls it into reverse. It is unlikely to get stuck
in reverse because two things need to fail - possible but less likely.
It will only be in neutral if the neutral button is pushed in with the
key on. Simply turning key on does not put it in neutral.

Is it really stuck in reverse when the ignition is off? It is difficult
to tell forward from reverse. Be sure it is not in forward - that's
where it is supposed to be when the key is off. With the key ON try
shifting to neutral - maybe it will do that and that means it is normal.
With engine running try shifting from neutral to forward and reverse and
check the rotation of the prop. Do not touch the prop when the engine is
running, not even with a stick.

If it is really stuck in reverse look at the simplest things first like
a stuck button or loose wire either at the control box or somewhere
along the wiring harness.

The electric shift lower units require a special oil. If the engine has
been run with the wrong oil the lower unit may be damaged. Try draining
the unit and re-fill with the correct oil and cycle the gears a few
times to loosen things up.

These old motors have had a tough life and may have had no or incorrect
maintenance. The shaft seals leak when they get old and let water into
the lower unit. Changing the oil every fall helps avoid damage but the
seals should be replaced wheb water is present in the oil. The oil
should not have a milky appearance - even old oil should be transparent
- dark brown maybe but partly transparent. If it looks like coffee with
cream in it then there is water in the oil. If the water has been there
for a long time then rust will be causing all sorts of problems,
including seizing the gears.

Being stuck in reverse should not be what is holding the lower unit
tight because the shift mechanism is all electric and just slides the
gears along the horizontal shaft at the bottom of the unit. If all the
bolts are removed then it needs a good rap but be careful because
aluminum can't take much hammering before it breaks. As the other poster
said, it may be stuck on good be old gunk. Try penetrating oil along the
seam overnight before bashing too much. When it comes loose it will fall
down so have someone help to keep it from breaking off the skeg or
falling onto feet. Put boards under it so it can only drop a 1/2 inch.
The electric shift has a plug that you need to undo before you drop it
too far.