|
Getting a boat cover repaired...
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the
process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 10:25*am, hk wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 10:45*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, *wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural components by drilling holes in it. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural components by drilling holes in it. D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights. This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy for Brains. Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:45:30 -0400, hk
wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. Why not just loop it around the frame and hook it back onto itself? Rick |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 11:22 AM, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:37:10 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. That bungee that Ace and other places sell (white with blue flecks going through it) uses a polyethylene cover and the sun will kill it pretty quickly. The cover shreds and you are left with a bunch of rubber bands. Unfortunately I have been unable to find a better alternative. I know they make it because I have some solid blue covered bungee from a Mighty Mite luggage cart that has lasted years right next to the white stuff. It seems to have a nylon jacket. West Marine has some polyester covered bungees... -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. You can buy bungee cords with plastic or plastic coated hooks. You can hook one end of the bungee cord on one of the lower legs of the I beam and loop the bungee under the beam to hold it in place or you can loop the bungee around the eye beam and hook the bungee back on to itself, or you can buy the bungees in lengths that will loop around the I beam and both hooks can attach to the loops, or you can use the old partially filled milk bottle trick to maintain constant tension on the tarp and never have to touch the trailer with lashings. How do you deal with rain water puddleing up on your cover, or snow load? |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 10:45*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, *wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Maybe use small hooks from Ace attached with self drilling screws. If your eyes are as bad as mine it would give you a larger target. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural components by drilling holes in it. D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights. This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy for Brains. Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian. Nice to see that you are duly annoyed with him. Seems like mission accomplished. Good work loogey. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 11:55*am, anon-e-moose wrote:
hk wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, *wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. You can buy bungee cords with plastic or plastic coated hooks. You *can hook one end of the bungee cord on one of the lower legs of the I beam and loop the bungee under the beam to hold it in place or you can loop the bungee around the eye beam and hook the bungee back on to itself, or you can buy the bungees in lengths that will loop around the I beam and * both hooks can attach to the loops, or you can use the old partially filled milk bottle trick to maintain constant tension on the tarp and never have to touch the trailer with lashings. How do you deal with rain water puddleing up on your cover, or snow load? This problem with bungee material deteriorating in sunlight is so bad that I have actually sewn covers for bungee from scrap material. Somebody should make UV resistant bungee. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 11:57 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Maybe use small hooks from Ace attached with self drilling screws. If your eyes are as bad as mine it would give you a larger target. I think West Marine has what I want, readymade... 4' bungee cord with a closed snap loop on one end and plastic hook on the other. I can attach the closed loop to the web strap loops on the cover and pull the open hook around the frame so the hook can attach to the bungee. I got "lasiked" about 11 years ago, and have 20/20 in one eye and 20/30 in the other. If the light is decent, I can read books, magazines, newspapers without glasses, and my gunshooting glasses work for distances a bit beyond that, out to about 30". But if the light is bad, I'm pretty much skunked at short distances. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 11:13*am, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 10:45 am, *wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, * *wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural components by drilling holes in it. D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights. I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural integrity. This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy for Brains. See above, dummy. But, then again, go ahead, drill all the holes in it you want! |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 11:59 AM, Frogwatch wrote:
On Apr 13, 11:55 am, wrote: hk wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. You can buy bungee cords with plastic or plastic coated hooks. You can hook one end of the bungee cord on one of the lower legs of the I beam and loop the bungee under the beam to hold it in place or you can loop the bungee around the eye beam and hook the bungee back on to itself, or you can buy the bungees in lengths that will loop around the I beam and both hooks can attach to the loops, or you can use the old partially filled milk bottle trick to maintain constant tension on the tarp and never have to touch the trailer with lashings. How do you deal with rain water puddleing up on your cover, or snow load? This problem with bungee material deteriorating in sunlight is so bad that I have actually sewn covers for bungee from scrap material. Somebody should make UV resistant bungee. I wonder how WestMarine's UV-resistant bungees will do? I don't mind replacing some of them every season if I go that route. The canvas cover is only for keeping dust and bird **** out of the boat during the boating season. When the season is over, I have the boat shrinkwrapped. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote:
I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural integrity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
"hk" wrote in message ... I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Contact this outfit in Chicago. http://www.henryssports.com/ A few years I bought bulk bungee cord and plastic pieces to make an excellent tie down system. One piece secures a loop that you attach to the cover. The other piece is mounted on the trailer where the end of the bungee cord is "wedged" in and held very securely. Fast and easy install and install. It makes for a neat and efficient tie down system. The cords remain attached to the cover and do not get "misplaced". |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 12:12 PM, wrote:
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:29:57 -0400, wrote: On 4/13/10 11:22 AM, wrote: On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:37:10 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. That bungee that Ace and other places sell (white with blue flecks going through it) uses a polyethylene cover and the sun will kill it pretty quickly. The cover shreds and you are left with a bunch of rubber bands. Unfortunately I have been unable to find a better alternative. I know they make it because I have some solid blue covered bungee from a Mighty Mite luggage cart that has lasted years right next to the white stuff. It seems to have a nylon jacket. West Marine has some polyester covered bungees... Polyester is bad in the sun too I'll rub some SPF-100 on it! -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
wrote in message ... On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 07:37:10 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, hk wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. That bungee that Ace and other places sell (white with blue flecks going through it) uses a polyethylene cover and the sun will kill it pretty quickly. The cover shreds and you are left with a bunch of rubber bands. Unfortunately I have been unable to find a better alternative. I know they make it because I have some solid blue covered bungee from a Mighty Mite luggage cart that has lasted years right next to the white stuff. It seems to have a nylon jacket. Sailrite has shock cord with a nylon cover http://search.sailrite.com/category/Shock-Cord |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 1:12*pm, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, *wrote: On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote: I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural integrity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering. Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions." Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the people here, how does one remove material from a structural member without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member? |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 2:23 PM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 1:12 pm, wrote: On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, wrote: On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote: I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural integrity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering. Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions." Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the people here, how does one remove material from a structural member without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member? http://tinyurl.com/y3f4gtb -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 2:28*pm, hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 2:23 PM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 1:12 pm, *wrote: On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, * *wrote: On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote: I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural integrity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering. Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions." Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the people here, how does one remove material from a structural member without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member? http://tinyurl.com/y3f4gtb --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - As expected....mechanical engineering my ass. Go drill some holes in your trailer's beams. Make them big ones. Several of them. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On 4/13/10 2:55 PM, Loogypicker wrote:
On Apr 13, 2:28 pm, wrote: On 4/13/10 2:23 PM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 1:12 pm, wrote: On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, wrote: On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote: I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural integrity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering. Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions." Yep, as soon as it's proven you don't know what in hell you are talking about, you start the childish insults. Please, do tell the people here, how does one remove material from a structural member without diminishing the load carrying capacity of that member? http://tinyurl.com/y3f4gtb --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - As expected....mechanical engineering my ass. Go drill some holes in your trailer's beams. Make them big ones. Several of them. You've had too many trepanations, loogy. Woof. Snap. Snarl...the loogy bywords. -- Conservatives - just pretend Obama's health care legislation is another unnecessary war and you'll feel better about it. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
"hk" wrote in message ... On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural components by drilling holes in it. D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights. This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy for Brains. Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym My aluminum trailer is welded. No nuts and bolts holding it together. Much nicer way to build a trailer. My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted together. Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. Luckily the bolt broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Apr 13, 3:59*pm, "Bill McKee" wrote:
"hk" wrote in message ... On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 10:45 am, *wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, * *wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. *Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. *Put *metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. *You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. *Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym-Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural components by drilling holes in it. D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights. This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy for Brains. Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym My aluminum trailer is welded. *No nuts and bolts holding it together. *Much nicer way to build a trailer. *My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted together. *Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. *Luckily the bolt broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - One trouble with bolts and bolt holes in aluminum is that those connections need to be slip-critical, meaning the two mating surfaces to the work through compression of the bolt/nut. If you rely on the bolt, then the softer aluminum holes get larger and larger with time. Add to that the dissimilar metal thing going on. Did you notice Harry thinks it's quite all right and good engineering practice to drill holes in structural members of his trailer? Anybody that has ANY bit of engineering sense knows not to do that. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
hk wrote:
I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. These are available at craft/fabric stores in the width you need. Get a few spares, they're cheap. http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-1-QUI.../dp/B001J4LM6W |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. Are you going to trailer with the cover on? Bungee cords won't be tight enough and they don't last long in the weather. A wider, nylon, strap around the I-beams is better than drilling. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 11:24 AM, lid wrote: On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:45:30 -0400, wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. Why not just loop it around the frame and hook it back onto itself? Rick Also under consideration. I'll have to get over to West Marine this week and see what's available. These might do: http://tinyurl.com/ybzdm2c They will be fine as long as you don't trailer it with those. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
hk wrote:
On 4/13/10 1:09 PM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 12:06 pm, wrote: On 4/13/10 12:03 PM, Loogypicker wrote: I guess, what with your mechanical engineering classes you allegedly took, they forgot to tell you that any hole drilled in a structural member will weaken said structural member. Thus, holes from the factory are taken into account when designing that member. Drilling holes that were NOT planned for in the design of the member can significantly weaken the member enough to compromise it's structural integrity. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zfx8C5bywIg --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Okay, so now we know you understand NOTHING about engineering. Sorry, I don't engage idiots like you in meaningful "discussions." Loogy the Pomeranian...the saga continues...snap,snap,snarl,snarl... http://tinyurl.com/yc88lm7 There are TWO snapping at each other. Nice choice! I wish I had all day to look that crap up. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
Bill McKee wrote:
wrote in message ... On 4/13/10 11:08 AM, Loogypicker wrote: On Apr 13, 10:45 am, wrote: On 4/13/10 10:37 AM, Frogwatch wrote: On Apr 13, 10:25 am, wrote: I managed to overtighten my canvas boat cover last season and in the process pulled the anchor roller through it at the bow, creating a nice 18" rip. Had a couple of other minor rips and tears. Got it all repaired at a local boat canvas shop for $60, and the shop sewed on double patches of vinyl at the bow where I pulled the cover too tight over the deck hardware. $60 is a lot better than $400 for a new "semi-custom" cover. Still evolving a quick tie/release system for straps that tie the cover to the trailer... Cheers. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym Small canvas loops around the edges of the cover. Run very thin bungee material thru said loops. Put metal hooks on the ends of said bungee material that hook under trailer frame. You can probably buy stainless rod at Home Depot or even use stainless welding rod for these hooks. Ace hardware sells the bungee material. Yeah. I have the loops...and I've been considering that elastic bungee cord. My trailer is made of aluminum i-beams, so I can probably drill small holes on the flat parts of the beams to catch the hooks... I'd prefer nylon hooks, I think. --http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yeah, that's what you should do. Weaken the trailer's structural components by drilling holes in it. D'oh...the aluminum I-Beams already have holes in them...for the stainless steel bolt/nylon washer/nylock nuts that hold the trailer together and for the fender fasteners and for the sidelights. This isn't a lake lanier clapped out old bassboat special trailer, Loogy for Brains. Nice try, though. You're doing well as an ankle-snapping pomeranian. -- http://tinyurl.com/ykxp2ym My aluminum trailer is welded. No nuts and bolts holding it together. Much nicer way to build a trailer. My former trailer was an EZLoader, bolted together. Flexed and even wore through one of the bolts. Luckily the bolt broke about a mile from home and not in a remote area or on the freeway. Some flexing is an advantage. Aluminum trailers tow better. The lighter weight is a plus, too. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 08:59:38 -0700 (PDT), Frogwatch
wrote: This problem with bungee material deteriorating in sunlight is so bad that I have actually sewn covers for bungee from scrap material. Somebody should make UV resistant bungee. We have one piece of bungee cord on the trawler which lives up on the bow pulpit and is totally exposed to direct tropical sun every day. It typically lasts about a year before the cover deteriorates. Given the harsh environment and low cost of replacement, that seems reasonable to me. Used on or near the under side of a trailer, in a more northerly climate, for 6 months or so of the year, it seems reasonable to expect multi-year life. I had exposed bungee cord on my old sailboat in Connecticut which seemed to last at least 3 or 4 years if not kept under constant high tension. |
Getting a boat cover repaired...
wrote in message ... On Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:46:09 -0400, "mmc" wrote: That bungee that Ace and other places sell (white with blue flecks going through it) uses a polyethylene cover and the sun will kill it pretty quickly. The cover shreds and you are left with a bunch of rubber bands. Unfortunately I have been unable to find a better alternative. I know they make it because I have some solid blue covered bungee from a Mighty Mite luggage cart that has lasted years right next to the white stuff. It seems to have a nylon jacket. Sailrite has shock cord with a nylon cover http://search.sailrite.com/category/Shock-Cord That looks like nice stuff but I would like to find some around 7/16 or half. I guess I should google it up but I was hoping to find some locally. Maybe an upholstery or canvas shop? |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:42 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 BoatBanter.com