On Mar 24, 10:40*pm, I am Tosk
wrote:
In article 7f977bdd-9a81-4b4b-9b66-42957145a827
@z11g2000yqz.googlegroups.com, says...





On Mar 24, 6:38*pm, Tim wrote:
On Mar 24, 9:28*pm, W1TEF wrote:

On Wed, 24 Mar 2010 19:06:50 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote:

I've heard a lot here concerning using Marine-Tex. But there are
several different package for several different applications. i was
wondering if this is the stuff to use.

A small package of it goes a long way. *If you only have to patch a
small area, just go with the smaller package - it's not complicated to
use which is its appeal.

Worked very well on the Halman.

Done deal.

Thanks!

I had forgotten about Marine-Tex, great stuff and they are right, it
does not run. *Basically it is epoxy with a thickener.
However, when making repairs, I like to use thin epoxy first to have
it soak into the surrounding area and then while it is still soft I
fill in with thicker stuff. *That way it is bonded all the way into
the surrounding area instead of relying on a mechanical bond to the
surface. That's my theory at least.

And a good theory it is. If you use Epoxy or Marine-Tex, over cured
polyester resin, you are going to have to rely on a mechanical bond, not
a chemical bond. The epoxy will not become "part" of the hull, it will
just hang on real tight, if you're lucky and do it right I don't know
how big your repairs are but the trick is to rough it up good and create
negative ridges even if possible. When I am roughing wood or cured
laminate for goo, I sometimes use a saw blade curved over and dragged
along the surface. Either way, if you are thickening or using thickened
goo, it's good if you can to start with a thinner coat or two to create
a better mechanical bond with the rough surface, then integrate the
thicker stuff into the repair like Froggy said.

Scotty

--
For a great time, go here first...http://tinyurl.com/ygqxs5v

Basically, Scott I'm working on chips in the gell coat that have
gotten down to the green resin but not into it. . I just came back
from sounding the hull again, and all seems solid. i suppose you
might say I'm trying to kill problems before they grow.

I dont' have any major damage where the mesh is ragged and hanging
out, so I'm considering just using some mild coatings of M-T dabbed
and smoothed to surface.