"SteveB" wrote in message
...
http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in,
I'm usually floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration
and location, but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below
or above the receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.
The first pic is a chock thru which a mooring line is led to a nearby cleat.
The second looks to be paint oxidation. I'd wax it and see how that works
out. Oxidation on bare aluminum will seal it with a white powder and won't
harm anything. I think products like Sharkhide are for bare aluminum so I'd
go with a decent car wax.
I agree with Bill on the roller. If you float the boat onto the trailer, the
angle of the boat in relation to the trailer on the ramp probably has the
roller hitting somewhat higher on the stem than in the pic? If so and the
eye was was higher or the roller lower it would get hung up.
Looks like a good boat Got any full shots?

On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:

Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.

Um..hello? :)

"mmc" wrote

Looks like a good boat Got any full shots?

Will post some. I love the layout of this boat, and it is a very restorable
boat that won't cost an arm and a leg. It has tons of level walk around
room, the kind that four people can go fishing in safely in our lakes, and
not get in each other's ways. It's a deep vee, and very stable in the
water. High gunnels. All the lighting works, came with a good fish finder,
1.5 hp troll motor, 40 hp Merc, lots of stuff in the storage cabinets.

It's a little ragged right now, but my list of honeydo projects is getting
shorter, and the boat is ratcheting up. I can do upholstery, so a couple of
new padded benches are in the pipeline. If I have a windfall, I may even
get a tilt replacement for the missing one. But even as is, it is a decent
boat for $1500. I could use it forever and not change a thing, and it would
be good. I'll take a couple of pics next time it's in the water.

Steve

On Nov 9, 10:48*am, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:
Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.

Um..hello? *:)

I don't know Bill. Bill doesn't know me. Therefore...

Oh, nevermind. :-)

"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:34:01 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:


"jps" wrote in message
. ..
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Lots of water in Southern Utah. Rivers and very large lakes. Mead,
Powell,
and probably a few smaller lakes.

Isn't Mead a pond now?

A really big pond.

"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in
message ...
On Mon, 9 Nov 2009 08:52:29 -0500, "mmc" wrote:

Apparently Bill is the only responder that knows Jack. Or you hurt the
others feeling by butting into the political bullsh*t fest.

Um..hello? :)

You don't count. ;)

"John H." wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 23:13:47 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:


"Bill McKee" wrote

Leave the aluminum painted. I like the bow eye below the roller. Then
you have a litte extra protection of the boat coming forward in a hard
stop. Just do not back the trailer in as far and the boat will not be
floating at the roller.

Thought of that as I was in the middle of retrieval last evening. For
years, I would launch and recover my own boat, and had a system. This
time,
with wifey, it is very different. I can see that I am going to have to
redo
under the boat and put some carpeted boards, and a couple of more guides
and
stops up frontward, where I can put the trailer minimally in the water,
then
power up and slide up. Lock on the eye hook to keep it from rolling off
during pullout, then winching it all the way up once I'm at the top of the
ramp and stopped. A foot long safety chain with a snap eye on the bow eye
bolt just in case the strap breaks.

The two side carpeted board guides are perfect, but the rollers under the
boat need some reworking and replacing, and I have always liked long
boards
under there to evenly support the weight. Time to work on a lot of things
now the weather is cooler.

I like your idea about the bow eye for protection against a hard stop. I
think my problem was having the trailer too deep in the water on
retrieval.

Steve


'Powering up' to get your boat on the trailer wreaks havoc with the
launch ramp. The boat should be put on the trailer without using the
engine. Using the winch is good exercise anyway.
--
John H



Tell them to build your ramps properly and the power loading will not hurt
it. Most of our western lakes rise and fall so much that the ramps are
really long and may have another 100-200' under water at times.

"Bill McKee" wrote in message
m...

"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:34:01 -0800, "Bill McKee"
wrote:


"jps" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:16:19 -0700, "SteveB"
wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/deserttraveler/

Three pics here. One is of a cleat like thing that I would assume is
to
guide a mooring line to keep it in place. What's it called, and
what's
it
used for.

Second pic, of the configuration of my bow reel. I think it would be
better
if the vee landing would be below the d ring, as when I come in, I'm
usually
floating higher than the rubber pulley. Total reconfiguration and
location,
but not a problem. Should the bow eye on the boat be below or above
the
receiving vee?

Last thing, oxidized aluminum. How to treat? Sand it off, and repaint
with
what, and seal with Sharkhide, I would ass-u-me.

Thanks in advance, and sorry to take you all away from your politics.

Steve

May also want to give Steve some tips on spray painting.

Nice scrub land. Wonder where the nearest water is...

Lots of water in Southern Utah. Rivers and very large lakes. Mead,
Powell,
and probably a few smaller lakes.

Isn't Mead a pond now?

A really big pond.

I haven't been down there in a long time, but I'd like to. I have memories
going back to the 50's regarding beaches and water lines, and "stuff".

Steve

"Bill McKee" wrote
Tell them to build your ramps properly and the power loading will not hurt
it. Most of our western lakes rise and fall so much that the ramps are
really long and may have another 100-200' under water at times.

Our ramp was built when the dam breached, and therefore, it could be built
as deep as it could be down to the bottom of the original creek. Still,
yesterday, when launching and recovering, we were ten feet past the end of
the concrete, so apparently they did not think the levels would fall past
that. Most ramps can only be built at the lowest of water levels, and if
the impoundment/lake/whatever can't be mechanically lowered, they just wait
until the lowest water level, then add on. But it sits underwater and
deteriorates, and when finally is low enough to use, is usually in bad
shape.

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

"Bill McKee" wrote
Tell them to build your ramps properly and the power loading will not
hurt it. Most of our western lakes rise and fall so much that the ramps
are really long and may have another 100-200' under water at times.

Our ramp was built when the dam breached, and therefore, it could be built
as deep as it could be down to the bottom of the original creek. Still,
yesterday, when launching and recovering, we were ten feet past the end of
the concrete, so apparently they did not think the levels would fall past
that. Most ramps can only be built at the lowest of water levels, and if
the impoundment/lake/whatever can't be mechanically lowered, they just
wait until the lowest water level, then add on. But it sits underwater
and deteriorates, and when finally is low enough to use, is usually in bad
shape.

Steve


They built most of the ramps on the lakes before the lakes were filled.
Lake Oroville has to be down about 150' before the main ramp is above the
waterline.