Well, I broke down...
 

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

--
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Well, I broke down...
 

On 11/2/09 12:05 PM, wrote:

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access


Very interesting and revealing. Thanks.

Well, I broke down...
 

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:05:38 -0600, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

Somewhat off the subject.

A few years back, I purchased a A model IH orchard tractor with a
frozen engine. Parts for that particular tractor are hard to find in
particular engine parts - it's a non-standard A engine.

Anway, I was talking to a guy at a tractor show who specialized in
Ford Jubilee and 8/9N restorations. He gave me a trick that he used
on frozen Ford engines. Pull the head and attach a six foot piece of
bar steel (or rod at least 1 inch thick) to the flywheel. Fill the
top of the engine block with WD-40 or similar solvent based penetrant
and attach a 25 lb weight to the end of the bar.

I'll be darned if it didn't work. Took about a week and I had to
reposition the bar once or twice and refill the cylinders (I think I
used PB Blaster) a few times, but the engine freed up enough to remove
the pistons and see what damage was done to the cylinders.

Here's the best part - I only had to resleeve one cylinder - I could
get away with honing the other three cylinders and some very slight
over size piston rings.

I thought it was a pretty cool idea.

Well, I broke down...
 

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 12:08:48 -0500, H the K
wrote:

On 11/2/09 12:05 PM, wrote:

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

--
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-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
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Very interesting and revealing. Thanks.

My inclination is to say that you're welcome. However, I don't think
any cynicism that may inhere is baseless considering your penchant for
denigrating others. In fact, I'd wager that you suspect that you have
seredipitously stumbled upon information that you may be able to
exploit in the future in your various campaigns of character
assassination. Though, I think a thoroughly recondite defense of my
unsolicited blurb in relying on what Desiderius Erasmus described of
Sir Thomas More to parallel my own assorted vocations may not be
beyond you. But, then again, perhaps it is. You can always blame it
on my tortured 'prose,' if the latter is the case.

All cynicism aside, though, you're welcome.

--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access

Well, I broke down...
 

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 12:23:42 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:05:38 -0600, wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

Somewhat off the subject.

A few years back, I purchased a A model IH orchard tractor with a
frozen engine. Parts for that particular tractor are hard to find in
particular engine parts - it's a non-standard A engine.

Anway, I was talking to a guy at a tractor show who specialized in
Ford Jubilee and 8/9N restorations. He gave me a trick that he used
on frozen Ford engines. Pull the head and attach a six foot piece of
bar steel (or rod at least 1 inch thick) to the flywheel. Fill the
top of the engine block with WD-40 or similar solvent based penetrant
and attach a 25 lb weight to the end of the bar.

I'll be darned if it didn't work. Took about a week and I had to
reposition the bar once or twice and refill the cylinders (I think I
used PB Blaster) a few times, but the engine freed up enough to remove
the pistons and see what damage was done to the cylinders.

Here's the best part - I only had to resleeve one cylinder - I could
get away with honing the other three cylinders and some very slight
over size piston rings.

I thought it was a pretty cool idea.

Does your tractor have a flat 6 or flat 8?

--
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Well, I broke down...
 

On Nov 2, 12:23*pm, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:05:38 -0600, wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. *Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. *There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. *You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. *If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. *It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. *I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. *The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

Somewhat off the subject.

A few years back, I purchased a A model IH orchard tractor with a
frozen engine. *Parts for that particular tractor are hard to find in
particular engine parts - it's a non-standard A engine.

Anway, I was talking to a guy at a tractor show who specialized in
Ford Jubilee and 8/9N restorations. * He gave me a trick that he used
on frozen Ford engines. *Pull the head and attach a six foot piece of
bar steel (or rod at least 1 inch thick) to the flywheel. *Fill the
top of the engine block with WD-40 or similar solvent based penetrant
and attach a 25 lb weight to the end of the bar.

I'll be darned if it didn't work. *Took about a week and I had to
reposition the bar once or twice and refill the cylinders (I think I
used PB Blaster) a few times, but the engine freed up enough to remove
the pistons and see what damage was done to the cylinders.

Here's the best part - I only had to resleeve one cylinder - I could
get away with honing the other three cylinders and some very slight
over size piston rings.

I thought it was a pretty cool idea.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I once had a small evinrude tiller motor that had set up and I done
similar. Never even took the heads off. Young and poor, I just took
the plugs out, sprayed a bunch of WD-40 in, and every week or so, try
to turn it over, then squirt some more WD-40 in it. One day, I pulled
the rope and it turned over. Cleaned the carb and hooked some gas up,
and it ran pretty darned good. After the initial run around the lake
with it, it started and ran great for a couple of years!

Well, I broke down...
 

On Mon, 2 Nov 2009 09:36:58 -0800 (PST), Loogypicker
wrote:

On Nov 2, 12:23*pm, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:05:38 -0600, wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. *Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. *There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. *You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. *If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. *It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. *I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. *The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

Somewhat off the subject.

A few years back, I purchased a A model IH orchard tractor with a
frozen engine. *Parts for that particular tractor are hard to find in
particular engine parts - it's a non-standard A engine.

Anway, I was talking to a guy at a tractor show who specialized in
Ford Jubilee and 8/9N restorations. * He gave me a trick that he used
on frozen Ford engines. *Pull the head and attach a six foot piece of
bar steel (or rod at least 1 inch thick) to the flywheel. *Fill the
top of the engine block with WD-40 or similar solvent based penetrant
and attach a 25 lb weight to the end of the bar.

I'll be darned if it didn't work. *Took about a week and I had to
reposition the bar once or twice and refill the cylinders (I think I
used PB Blaster) a few times, but the engine freed up enough to remove
the pistons and see what damage was done to the cylinders.

Here's the best part - I only had to resleeve one cylinder - I could
get away with honing the other three cylinders and some very slight
over size piston rings.

I thought it was a pretty cool idea.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I once had a small evinrude tiller motor that had set up and I done
similar. Never even took the heads off. Young and poor, I just took
the plugs out, sprayed a bunch of WD-40 in, and every week or so, try
to turn it over, then squirt some more WD-40 in it. One day, I pulled
the rope and it turned over. Cleaned the carb and hooked some gas up,
and it ran pretty darned good. After the initial run around the lake
with it, it started and ran great for a couple of years!

I don't think I would ever be patient enough for your solution or
Tom's with his tractor. Still, the steelbar and flywheel thing is
pretty clever. A solid one inch 6' steel bar is heavy enough. Tom
must have had a fulcrum placed forward of center on the bar. (That's
just a guess, of course.)

--
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Well, I broke down...
 

On 11/2/09 12:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 12:08:48 -0500, H the
wrote:

On 11/2/09 12:05 PM, wrote:

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access


Very interesting and revealing. Thanks.

My inclination is to say that you're welcome. However, I don't think
any cynicism that may inhere is baseless considering your penchant for
denigrating others. In fact, I'd wager that you suspect that you have
seredipitously stumbled upon information that you may be able to
exploit in the future in your various campaigns of character
assassination. Though, I think a thoroughly recondite defense of my
unsolicited blurb in relying on what Desiderius Erasmus described of
Sir Thomas More to parallel my own assorted vocations may not be
beyond you. But, then again, perhaps it is. You can always blame it
on my tortured 'prose,' if the latter is the case.

All cynicism aside, though, you're welcome.

--
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Nothing nefarious. Your far simpler language and simple spelling errors
in the "Kroil post" tell me what I need to know.

Well, I broke down...
 

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 13:03:36 -0500, H the K
wrote:

On 11/2/09 12:31 PM, wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 12:08:48 -0500, H the
wrote:

On 11/2/09 12:05 PM, wrote:

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access


Very interesting and revealing. Thanks.

My inclination is to say that you're welcome. However, I don't think
any cynicism that may inhere is baseless considering your penchant for
denigrating others. In fact, I'd wager that you suspect that you have
seredipitously stumbled upon information that you may be able to
exploit in the future in your various campaigns of character
assassination. Though, I think a thoroughly recondite defense of my
unsolicited blurb in relying on what Desiderius Erasmus described of
Sir Thomas More to parallel my own assorted vocations may not be
beyond you. But, then again, perhaps it is. You can always blame it
on my tortured 'prose,' if the latter is the case.

All cynicism aside, though, you're welcome.

--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access


Nothing nefarious. Your far simpler language and simple spelling errors
in the "Kroil post" tell me what I need to know.

You've deduced that I have the capacity to transpose vowels on
occassion, and that I'm as apt to leave behind sloppy editing as well?
Or is it that you've discovered that I can mingle well with the
audience? Perhaps it reveals that I don't use a spell checker? It
certainly couldn't be the case that I sometimes try to squeeze notes
into a busy day. Whatever the case may be, Harry, I think that you're
merely clever by half, even in your evaluations. Again, perhaps I'm
just cynical.

(Perhaps I'm just a Slade devotee.)

--
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Well, I broke down...
 

On Nov 2, 12:46*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 2 Nov 2009 09:36:58 -0800 (PST), Loogypicker





wrote:
On Nov 2, 12:23*pm, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:05:38 -0600, wrote:
On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 11:33:54 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 09:17:21 -0500, Wayne.B
wrote:

On Mon, 02 Nov 2009 08:04:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote:

I had a similar problem once a long time ago - back in the early '80s
on an oldish 20' Thompson. *Had a hell of a time with it until a
machinist friend of mine suggested using light machine oil (sewing
machine oil in fact) to help the process along.

There's a product called PB Blaster, available in just about any auto
parts store, which is very good at this. *There's another good one
caled Aero Kroil available on the web from Kano Labs:

http://www.kanolabs.com/

I like PB Blaster, but the problem is that you can't use use a
"little" of it - the way it comes out of the can, it's like a flood.

Kroil Oil works exceptionally well on just about any type of rusted or
frozen parts. *You can purchased it directly from Kano Labs in a spray
can, oil sqiurt can, or a closed container. *If you buy a packaged
kit, you can get all of these at a fairly inexpensive price. *It's the
only product that I would buy for our maintenance department and
machine shop for that type of problem. *I've been able to apply it to
bolts that were siezed-up in machinery that had been left in the
weather for years. *The parts could be loosened within 10 minutes.

Somewhat off the subject.

A few years back, I purchased a A model IH orchard tractor with a
frozen engine. *Parts for that particular tractor are hard to find in
particular engine parts - it's a non-standard A engine.

Anway, I was talking to a guy at a tractor show who specialized in
Ford Jubilee and 8/9N restorations. * He gave me a trick that he used
on frozen Ford engines. *Pull the head and attach a six foot piece of
bar steel (or rod at least 1 inch thick) to the flywheel. *Fill the
top of the engine block with WD-40 or similar solvent based penetrant
and attach a 25 lb weight to the end of the bar.

I'll be darned if it didn't work. *Took about a week and I had to
reposition the bar once or twice and refill the cylinders (I think I
used PB Blaster) a few times, but the engine freed up enough to remove
the pistons and see what damage was done to the cylinders.

Here's the best part - I only had to resleeve one cylinder - I could
get away with honing the other three cylinders and some very slight
over size piston rings.

I thought it was a pretty cool idea.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I once had a small evinrude tiller motor that had set up and I done
similar. Never even took the heads off. Young and poor, I just took
the plugs out, sprayed a bunch of WD-40 in, and every week or so, try
to turn it over, then squirt some more WD-40 in it. One day, I pulled
the rope and it turned over. Cleaned the carb and hooked some gas up,
and it ran pretty darned good. After the initial run around the lake
with it, it started and ran great for a couple of years!

I don't think I would ever be patient enough for your solution or
Tom's with his tractor. *Still, the steelbar and flywheel thing is
pretty clever. *A solid one inch 6' steel bar is heavy enough. *Tom
must have had a fulcrum placed forward of center on the bar. *(That's
just a guess, of course.)

--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
* * * * * * *-------http://www.NewsDemon.com------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

No, the pivot point would be the center of the crankshaft, so
theroretically all of the bar is acting as the lever.