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#1
posted to rec.boats
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On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 05:32:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim
wrote: On Jun 22, 5:15*am, Wizard of Woodstock wrote: On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 20:15:06 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: that looks like a serious dose of the clap, you got *there Tom. Too much exposure to salt in a tight spot. Don't think so - if that were the case, the entire system would be compromised like this and it's pretty clean up the tube to the brake actuator - just a dirt. What I think happened is that the solenoid let go - that's basically brake fluid corrosion. This has been leaking for sometime - that's what I'm thinking. *I have had to add brake fluid over the years, but it's a pretty open system so evaporation I figured - apparently not. No indication it was leaking either until it let go. On my trailer (23' Marquis) it's all exposed and so it has less means of build up. The pic of the brake line looks evil too. and it might be a lot of fun trying to bleed the brakes with them baptized in brine as well. I've seen that on an old Escort I had that had a brake line release. Corrosive stuff brake fluid. Well, I'm not one to dispute the Wizard, but I've sen many an old car and/or truck that had a gazillion miles and years on them and no rust on the cast iron brake reservoir. I wonder what the difference is? something abotu the heat under the engine compartment causing something not to rust and corroede? Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. |
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#2
posted to rec.boats
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On Jun 22, 7:36*am, Wizard of Woodstock wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 05:32:17 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: On Jun 22, 5:15*am, Wizard of Woodstock wrote: On Sun, 21 Jun 2009 20:15:06 -0700 (PDT), Tim wrote: that looks like a serious dose of the clap, you got *there Tom. Too much exposure to salt in a tight spot. Don't think so - if that were the case, the entire system would be compromised like this and it's pretty clean up the tube to the brake actuator - just a dirt. What I think happened is that the solenoid let go - that's basically brake fluid corrosion. This has been leaking for sometime - that's what I'm thinking. *I have had to add brake fluid over the years, but it's a pretty open system so evaporation I figured - apparently not. No indication it was leaking either until it let go. On my trailer (23' Marquis) it's all exposed and so it has less means of build up. The pic of the brake line looks evil too. and it might be a lot of fun trying to bleed the brakes with them baptized in brine as well. I've seen that on an old Escort I had that had a brake line release. Corrosive stuff brake fluid. Well, I'm not one to dispute the Wizard, but I've sen many an old car and/or truck that had a gazillion miles and years on them and no rust on the cast iron brake reservoir. I wonder what the difference is? something abotu the heat under the engine compartment causing something not to rust and corroede? Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. I know what your saying, but that cylinder of yours looks pretty gawdy, but of course it has a steel cap on it too, Maybe the brake fluid attacks the steel but not the cast iron. Most strange. |
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#3
posted to rec.boats
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On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:36:53 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock
wrote: Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. Steel is highly susceptable to rust, while cast iron is very corrosion resistant. Casady |
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#4
posted to rec.boats
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Richard Casady wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:36:53 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock wrote: Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. Steel is highly susceptable to rust, while cast iron is very corrosion resistant. Casady I have always had to make sure my cast iron skillets were well seasoned or they would rust. -- Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq. This Newsgroup post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects |
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#5
posted to rec.boats
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On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:40:07 -0400, "Reginald P Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: Richard Casady wrote: On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:36:53 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock wrote: Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. Steel is highly susceptable to rust, while cast iron is very corrosion resistant. Casady I have always had to make sure my cast iron skillets were well seasoned or they would rust. Isn't that how you're supposed to get the brown coating on steak and chicken? -- John H |
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#6
posted to rec.boats
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On Jun 22, 4:39*pm, John H wrote:
On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:40:07 -0400, "Reginald P Smithers III, Esq." wrote: Richard Casady wrote: On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:36:53 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock wrote: Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. Steel is highly susceptable to rust, while cast iron is very corrosion resistant. Casady I have always had to make sure my cast iron skillets were well seasoned or they would rust. Isn't that how you're supposed to get the brown coating on steak and chicken? -- John H Works for me! Good for "iron poor" blood too! |
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#7
posted to rec.boats
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On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 16:40:07 -0400, "Reginald P Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: Richard Casady wrote: On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:36:53 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock wrote: Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. Steel is highly susceptable to rust, while cast iron is very corrosion resistant. Casady I have always had to make sure my cast iron skillets were well seasoned or they would rust. And your skillets developed how many holes? There are cast iron water pipes that have been in use for hundreds of years. I have owned steel knives that could corrode visibly in fifteen minutes, just cut an apple and watch white steel blacken. I have never heard of a cast iron car part failing from corrosion. Steel bodies, and when they had them, frames, can rust to the point of uselessness. Frame rusted out on my fathers 67 Ford wagon, and he had to scrap it, even though the body and interior were still good. |
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#8
posted to rec.boats
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On Jun 22, 9:50*am, Richard Casady
wrote: On Mon, 22 Jun 2009 08:36:53 -0400, Wizard of Woodstock wrote: Got me, but that International L-110 I restored master cylinder was clean (cast iron), but all the lines from it were toast. Maybe it's the lines and not the cyliinder. Steel is highly susceptable to rust, while cast iron is very corrosion resistant. Casady Actually, Cast Iron will rust faster than anything. Most cast iron parts you buy new will have a light coat of fine oil on them for that reason. Steel is usually a lot slower, but will rust out. But Stainless is about the ultimate against rust. that is unless you use yellow brass. |
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#9
posted to rec.boats
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"Tim" wrote in message ... Did it to you again. Can't believe it. The two times you called I had a bunch of activity going on. Today it was Verizon. I had my cell phone in one ear, listening to the tech help guy and trying to answer your call at the same time. Email always works. rerik at comcast dot net Eisboch |
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