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#1
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How important is penetration in the water for a trolling motor?
I took my Lund out, and both the 1.2 hp Gamefisher, and the Minn Kota 55 seem to be making a lot of noise when they get close to the surface. I can make mounts so they will be below the level they are now, but right now, they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? Steve |
#2
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On May 21, 1:32*am, "SteveB" wrote:
How important is penetration in the water for a trolling motor? I took my Lund out, and both the 1.2 hp Gamefisher, and the Minn Kota 55 seem to be making a lot of noise when they get close to the surface. *I can make mounts so they will be below the level they are now, but right now, they are barely a foot under water. *Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? Steve The MinnKota should be able to be adjusted up and down. All I've ever had were that way. |
#3
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On May 21, "SteveB" wrote:
they are barely a foot under water. *Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? On Thu, 21 May 09, loogypicker wrote: The MinnKota should be able to be adjusted up and down. All I've ever had were that way. That's what I was thinking. With a 36" shaft, on a 15" transom, that should put it 21" from the surface. I would think that'd be plenty deep. Steve, what height transom do you have? Rick |
#4
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![]() wrote in message ... On May 21, "SteveB" wrote: they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? On Thu, 21 May 09, loogypicker wrote: The MinnKota should be able to be adjusted up and down. All I've ever had were that way. That's what I was thinking. With a 36" shaft, on a 15" transom, that should put it 21" from the surface. I would think that'd be plenty deep. Steve, what height transom do you have? Rick My Lund is a Vee. From the bottom of the Vee to the top of the transom is 22". My 1.2 trolling outboard is 20" from the mount that sits atop the transom to the center of the prop shaft. My Minn Kota is 27" from the mount to center of prop shaft. When the boat is in the water, the center of the driveshaft on the outboard trolling kicker is higher than the plane of the bottom of the boat. With two people in the boat, they have to be positioned correctly to keep either of the two trolling motors props in the water depending on which one it is. Getting a longer shafted electric troll is no problem, as this one is hand control, and I want a foot model. Maybe I should chuck this little outboard trolling kicker and get a longer shafted one, too. Just considering alternatives before loading up the credit card again. I am a welder, and can make the brackets for these at minimal price. I was just wondering how deep they should be running under the surface of the water for optimal performance. But then, there's only so far you can go, or you're hanging over the gunnel or transom working the thing. Thanks. Steve |
#5
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On May 21, "SteveB" wrote:
they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? On Thu, 21 May 09, loogypicker wrote: The MinnKota should be able to be adjusted up and down. All I've ever had were that way. PhantMan wrote in message That's what I was thinking. With a 36" shaft, on a 15" transom, that should put it 21" from the surface. I would think that'd be plenty deep. Steve, what height transom do you have? On Thu, 21 May 09, "SteveB" wrote: My Lund is a Vee. From the bottom of the Vee to the top of the transom is 22". My 1.2 trolling outboard is 20" from the mount that sits atop the transom to the center of the prop shaft. My Minn Kota is 27" from the mount to center of prop shaft. When the boat is in the water, the center of the driveshaft on the outboard trolling kicker is higher than the plane of the bottom of the boat. With two people in the boat, they have to be positioned correctly to keep either of the two trolling motors props in the water depending on which one it is. Getting a longer shafted electric troll is no problem, as this one is hand control, and I want a foot model. Maybe I should chuck this little outboard trolling kicker and get a longer shafted one, too. Just considering alternatives before loading up the credit card again. I am a welder, and can make the brackets for these at minimal price. I was just wondering how deep they should be running under the surface of the water for optimal performance. Oh.... well, here's the problem. You have a 20" transom. It's not uncommon for that measurement to be +/- and inch or two. And you have a 15" shaft outboard (measure from the bottom of the clamp, the underpart part that sits on top of the transom, to the cavitation plate. Not the prop.). That measurement is also commonly not exact, Since I don't know the deadrise of your V bottom, nor how far off center you outboard is mounted, I don't know if it's deep enough or not. But line up the cavitation plate with the boat's bottom. If the cavitation plate is level with or below the bottom, you're good to go. If it's higher than the bottom, and you can make an inexpensive bracket to lower the motor a little, I'd say go that route. Outboards ain't cheap. Minn Kota 55 shafts come in two lengths. 27" is not one of them lol! You get to choose between 36" and 42" ;-) and I'm guessing you may have a 36" shaft. Are you sure you have adjusted the transom clamp as high as it will go on the shaft? You can move it up the shaft (to move the prop deeper) or down (to move the prop shallower). If you have plenty of spare cash laying around, buying new stuff is always an option. But frankly, I think you can make do with what you already have. The Minn Kota should have room to spare for a downward adjustment of the prop. And before you make a bracket for the outboard, try mounting it further offcenter. Then check to see if that position allows the cavitation plate to be below the bottom. Rick |
#6
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![]() wrote in message ... On May 21, "SteveB" wrote: they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? On Thu, 21 May 09, loogypicker wrote: The MinnKota should be able to be adjusted up and down. All I've ever had were that way. PhantMan wrote in message That's what I was thinking. With a 36" shaft, on a 15" transom, that should put it 21" from the surface. I would think that'd be plenty deep. Steve, what height transom do you have? On Thu, 21 May 09, "SteveB" wrote: My Lund is a Vee. From the bottom of the Vee to the top of the transom is 22". My 1.2 trolling outboard is 20" from the mount that sits atop the transom to the center of the prop shaft. My Minn Kota is 27" from the mount to center of prop shaft. When the boat is in the water, the center of the driveshaft on the outboard trolling kicker is higher than the plane of the bottom of the boat. With two people in the boat, they have to be positioned correctly to keep either of the two trolling motors props in the water depending on which one it is. Getting a longer shafted electric troll is no problem, as this one is hand control, and I want a foot model. Maybe I should chuck this little outboard trolling kicker and get a longer shafted one, too. Just considering alternatives before loading up the credit card again. I am a welder, and can make the brackets for these at minimal price. I was just wondering how deep they should be running under the surface of the water for optimal performance. Oh.... well, here's the problem. You have a 20" transom. It's not uncommon for that measurement to be +/- and inch or two. And you have a 15" shaft outboard (measure from the bottom of the clamp, the underpart part that sits on top of the transom, to the cavitation plate. Not the prop.). That measurement is also commonly not exact, Since I don't know the deadrise of your V bottom, nor how far off center you outboard is mounted, I don't know if it's deep enough or not. But line up the cavitation plate with the boat's bottom. If the cavitation plate is level with or below the bottom, you're good to go. If it's higher than the bottom, and you can make an inexpensive bracket to lower the motor a little, I'd say go that route. Outboards ain't cheap. Minn Kota 55 shafts come in two lengths. 27" is not one of them lol! You get to choose between 36" and 42" ;-) and I'm guessing you may have a 36" shaft. Are you sure you have adjusted the transom clamp as high as it will go on the shaft? You can move it up the shaft (to move the prop deeper) or down (to move the prop shallower). If you have plenty of spare cash laying around, buying new stuff is always an option. But frankly, I think you can make do with what you already have. The Minn Kota should have room to spare for a downward adjustment of the prop. And before you make a bracket for the outboard, try mounting it further offcenter. Then check to see if that position allows the cavitation plate to be below the bottom. Rick Thanks to all. I'm not getting a lot of answers, but I am getting responses. I can see in my driveway that the outboard trolling motor is too high, and from fishing experience that the electric troll is too low. When you put it at its lowest point, that's a good indication that you can't lower it any more. Unless you buy longer shafts. First of all, the outboard 1.2 is mounted on the transom, and the Minn Kota is mounted on the bow. They will never switch places. Sorry if my standard measuring tape is not up to standards, and Minn Kota makes only 36" and 42", but when I put my tape on there, the part that clamps onto the transom/whatever (measured at the top of the clamp) down to the centerline of the prop is 27". I could provide photos, but please just take my word for it. I only had three measurements to remember, 20, 22, and 27. I could go out and write them down, but I'm sure I'd come back with the same. I am a child of the sixties, and I suffer from old age, TBI, and two too many "window panes", but I am confident I got this one right. (Those who get it get it, those who don't don't.) My boat is a very simple one. No cavitation plate. I could and would make a mount farther out from the transom, and one which would put my trolling motor deeper in the water. Ditto on the front end with the trolling motor. I just don't want to be hanging out there operating machinery that is less than the level of the gunnel. (personal thing) Again, my question is: How far SHOULD the propeller of a trolling motor be below the surface of the water? Sorry for those of you who overthunk this, but that's about as close to the issue as I can put it from my end. YMMV ......... and probably does. Steve |
#7
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On May 21, 8:46*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
wrote in message ... On May 21, *"SteveB" wrote: they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? On Thu, 21 May 09, loogypicker wrote: The MinnKota should be able to be adjusted up and down. All I've ever had were that way. That's what I was thinking. With a 36" shaft, on a 15" transom, that should put it 21" from the surface. *I would think that'd be plenty deep. Steve, what height transom do you have? Rick My Lund is a Vee. *From the bottom of the Vee to the top of the transom is 22". My 1.2 trolling outboard is 20" from the mount that sits atop the transom to the center of the prop shaft. My Minn Kota is 27" from the mount to center of prop shaft. When the boat is in the water, the center of the driveshaft on the outboard trolling kicker is higher than the plane of the bottom of the boat. With two people in the boat, they have to be positioned correctly to keep either of the two trolling motors props in the water depending on which one it is. Getting a longer shafted electric troll is no problem, as this one is hand control, and I want a foot model. *Maybe I should chuck this little outboard trolling kicker and get a longer shafted one, too. Just considering alternatives before loading up the credit card again. I am a welder, and can make the brackets for these at minimal price. *I was just wondering how deep they should be running under the surface of the water for optimal performance. But then, there's only so far you can go, or you're hanging over the gunnel or transom working the thing. Thanks. Steve- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - The foot control trolling motor will be adjustable. It's a simple clamp around the shaft. Loosen to two bolts and adjust. |
#8
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![]() "SteveB" wrote in message ... How important is penetration in the water for a trolling motor? I took my Lund out, and both the 1.2 hp Gamefisher, and the Minn Kota 55 seem to be making a lot of noise when they get close to the surface. I can make mounts so they will be below the level they are now, but right now, they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? Steve Some light reading for you: http://smalloutboards.com/shaft.htm http://www.deltaprop.com/linkso.asp |
#9
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![]() "Don White" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message ... How important is penetration in the water for a trolling motor? I took my Lund out, and both the 1.2 hp Gamefisher, and the Minn Kota 55 seem to be making a lot of noise when they get close to the surface. I can make mounts so they will be below the level they are now, but right now, they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? Steve Some light reading for you: http://smalloutboards.com/shaft.htm http://www.deltaprop.com/linkso.asp http://www.minnkotamotors.com/selectamotor/ has shaft lengths, etc. |
#10
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![]() "Calif Bill" wrote in message m... "Don White" wrote in message ... "SteveB" wrote in message ... How important is penetration in the water for a trolling motor? I took my Lund out, and both the 1.2 hp Gamefisher, and the Minn Kota 55 seem to be making a lot of noise when they get close to the surface. I can make mounts so they will be below the level they are now, but right now, they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the time. Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts? Steve Some light reading for you: http://smalloutboards.com/shaft.htm http://www.deltaprop.com/linkso.asp http://www.minnkotamotors.com/selectamotor/ has shaft lengths, etc. Nah, I think it's time for a foot control. I don't have enough hands to comfortably and safely do all the things at the right time, and concentrate on the fish. Steve |
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