Penetration?
 

wrote in message
...
On May 21, "SteveB" wrote:
they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with
people
sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of the
time.

Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts?

On Thu, 21 May 09, loogypicker wrote:
The MinnKota should be able to be adjusted up and down. All I've ever
had were that way.

PhantMan wrote in message
That's what I was thinking. With a 36" shaft, on a 15" transom, that
should put it 21" from the surface. I would think that'd be plenty
deep.
Steve, what height transom do you have?


On Thu, 21 May 09, "SteveB" wrote:
My Lund is a Vee. From the bottom of the Vee to the top of the transom
is
22".

My 1.2 trolling outboard is 20" from the mount that sits atop the
transom
to
the center of the prop shaft.

My Minn Kota is 27" from the mount to center of prop shaft.

When the boat is in the water, the center of the driveshaft on the
outboard
trolling kicker is higher than the plane of the bottom of the boat.

With two people in the boat, they have to be positioned correctly to
keep
either of the two trolling motors props in the water depending on which
one
it is.

Getting a longer shafted electric troll is no problem, as this one is
hand
control, and I want a foot model. Maybe I should chuck this little
outboard
trolling kicker and get a longer shafted one, too.

Just considering alternatives before loading up the credit card again.

I am a welder, and can make the brackets for these at minimal price. I
was
just wondering how deep they should be running under the surface of the
water for optimal performance.

PhantMan wrote:
Oh.... well, here's the problem. You have a 20" transom. It's not
uncommon for that measurement to be +/- and inch or two. And you have
a 15" shaft outboard (measure from the bottom of the clamp, the
underpart part that sits on top of the transom, to the cavitation
plate. Not the prop.). That measurement is also commonly not exact,
Since I don't know the deadrise of your V bottom, nor how far off
center you outboard is mounted, I don't know if it's deep enough or
not. But line up the cavitation plate with the boat's bottom. If the
cavitation plate is level with or below the bottom, you're good to go.
If it's higher than the bottom, and you can make an inexpensive
bracket to lower the motor a little, I'd say go that route. Outboards
ain't cheap.
Minn Kota 55 shafts come in two lengths. 27" is not one of them lol!
You get to choose between 36" and 42" ;-)
and I'm guessing you may have a 36" shaft.
Are you sure you have adjusted the transom clamp as high as it will go
on the shaft? You can move it up the shaft (to move the prop deeper)
or down (to move the prop shallower).
If you have plenty of spare cash laying around, buying new stuff is
always an option. But frankly, I think you can make do with what you
already have. The Minn Kota should have room to spare for a downward
adjustment of the prop. And before you make a bracket for the
outboard, try mounting it further offcenter. Then check to see if
that position allows the cavitation plate to be below the bottom.
Rick

On Thu, 21 May 09, "SteveB" wrote:
Thanks to all. I'm not getting a lot of answers, but I am getting
responses. I can see in my driveway that the outboard trolling motor is
too
high, and from fishing experience that the electric troll is too low.
When
you put it at its lowest point, that's a good indication that you can't
lower it any more. Unless you buy longer shafts.

First of all, the outboard 1.2 is mounted on the transom, and the Minn
Kota
is mounted on the bow. They will never switch places. Sorry if my
standard
measuring tape is not up to standards, and Minn Kota makes only 36" and
42",
but when I put my tape on there, the part that clamps onto the
transom/whatever (measured at the top of the clamp) down to the centerline
of the prop is 27". I could provide photos, but please just take my word
for it. I only had three measurements to remember, 20, 22, and 27. I
could
go out and write them down, but I'm sure I'd come back with the same. I
am
a child of the sixties, and I suffer from old age, TBI, and two too many
"window panes", but I am confident I got this one right. (Those who get
it
get it, those who don't don't.)

My boat is a very simple one. No cavitation plate. I could and would
make
a mount farther out from the transom, and one which would put my trolling
motor deeper in the water. Ditto on the front end with the trolling
motor.

I just don't want to be hanging out there operating machinery that is less
than the level of the gunnel. (personal thing)

Again, my question is: How far SHOULD the propeller of a trolling motor
be
below the surface of the water? Sorry for those of you who overthunk
this,
but that's about as close to the issue as I can put it from my end.

YMMV ......... and probably does.

Simply put... if you're trolling motor is on the bow (you didn't
mention that until now) there's no hard and fast rule except to say
that it shouldn't come out of the water when the bow rises and falls.
And the distance your bow can rise and fall depends on too many
factors to deal with here. I think it's safe to say it's more than a
foot though.
And I DO take your word that you measured 27" from the clamp to the
prop. But in this case, the clamp doesn't matter because it can be
adjusted up or down the shaft. What's the distance from the bottom
of the control head (that's the plastic box on top of the shaft where
the tiller is attached) down to the prop? And is there any distance at
all from the top of the clamp to the bottom of the control head? If
you have it adjusted all the way down, there should be no distance at
all there. So if the bottom of the control head is rubbing on the top
of the clamp already, and you don't want to move it to the transom, I
agree with you. I don't see any other choice but buy another trolling
motor with at least a 42" shaft. Yours may have been shortened at
some point.... who knows why.

And I don't mean to beat a dead horse but, I think you misunderstood
what I said about your outboard. The cavitation plate I refered to is
not on the boat. It's on the outboard's lower unit. It's the
horizontal plate just above the propeller. The plate should line up
with the bottom of the boat, like an extension of the bottom (sort
of). And since your boat has a V bottom, the more off center you
mount it, the shorter the distance will be from the top of the transom
to the bottom of the boat.

Rick

Okay, got it that time. This MK is a simple one, probably designed for
small fishing boats. It has a simple clamp on tilt slider. With that slid
all the way up, and then measuring from the top of the C, it's only 27" to
the center of prop shaft.

Looks like I'll just have to make due with these, and make a couple of
temporary mounts, then buy the proper motors. I want a foot control anyway.
Maybe just keep the little 1.2 kicker troller, as you just turn it on and
sit still, not a lot of maneuvering.

I'll look at that cavatation plate. This boat does not have the original
engine.

Steve

Penetration?
 

On Fri, 22 May 09, "SteveB" wrote:
This MK is a simple one, probably designed for
small fishing boats. It has a simple clamp on tilt slider. With that slid
all the way up, and then measuring from the top of the C, it's only 27" to
the center of prop shaft.

Okay, got it that time ;-) Still, the motor might be useful for
some other purpose, so you could sell it to help pay for exactly what
you want. Or, as CalifBill suggests, replace the shaft with a longer
one. I've never taken one apart but would be interested in knowing
how. Seems like, besides just the shaft, you'd need a longer elec
cable inside the shaft too -shrug- I dunno. But good luck.

Rick

Penetration?
 

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 May 09, "SteveB" wrote:
This MK is a simple one, probably designed for
small fishing boats. It has a simple clamp on tilt slider. With that
slid
all the way up, and then measuring from the top of the C, it's only 27" to
the center of prop shaft.

Okay, got it that time ;-) Still, the motor might be useful for
some other purpose, so you could sell it to help pay for exactly what
you want. Or, as CalifBill suggests, replace the shaft with a longer
one. I've never taken one apart but would be interested in knowing
how. Seems like, besides just the shaft, you'd need a longer elec
cable inside the shaft too -shrug- I dunno. But good luck.

Rick

I'm going to sell this one and get a foot control. I'm hereditarily clumsy,
and for me to have a fishing pole, trolling motor tiller, cigarette, and
beer in my hands at the same time is a skill I have yet to master. (just
kidding about the cigarette)

Steve

Penetration?
 

"SteveB" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
On Fri, 22 May 09, "SteveB" wrote:
This MK is a simple one, probably designed for
small fishing boats. It has a simple clamp on tilt slider. With that
slid
all the way up, and then measuring from the top of the C, it's only 27"
to
the center of prop shaft.

Okay, got it that time ;-) Still, the motor might be useful for
some other purpose, so you could sell it to help pay for exactly what
you want. Or, as CalifBill suggests, replace the shaft with a longer
one. I've never taken one apart but would be interested in knowing
how. Seems like, besides just the shaft, you'd need a longer elec
cable inside the shaft too -shrug- I dunno. But good luck.

Rick

I'm going to sell this one and get a foot control. I'm hereditarily
clumsy, and for me to have a fishing pole, trolling motor tiller,
cigarette, and beer in my hands at the same time is a skill I have yet to
master. (just kidding about the cigarette)

Steve


I have an MK auto pilot. 24V 65AP. Can use either a foot control or a
wireless hand control. I really like it when trolling freshwater lakes, as
I can set the AP to take the boat in a certain direction and then run the
electric at a low power. And use the kicker locked straight ahead to power
the boat. I use the foot control as a hand control when in the back of the
boat. 20' control cord. They make a 12V model also.

Penetration?
 

"Don White" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
How important is penetration in the water for a trolling motor?

I took my Lund out, and both the 1.2 hp Gamefisher, and the Minn Kota 55
seem to be making a lot of noise when they get close to the surface. I
can make mounts so they will be below the level they are now, but right
now, they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with
people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of
the time.

Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts?

Steve




Some light reading for you:
http://smalloutboards.com/shaft.htm
http://www.deltaprop.com/linkso.asp




http://www.minnkotamotors.com/selectamotor/ has shaft lengths, etc.

Penetration?
 

"Calif Bill" wrote in message
m...

"Don White" wrote in message
...

"SteveB" wrote in message
...
How important is penetration in the water for a trolling motor?

I took my Lund out, and both the 1.2 hp Gamefisher, and the Minn Kota 55
seem to be making a lot of noise when they get close to the surface. I
can make mounts so they will be below the level they are now, but right
now, they are barely a foot under water. Unless the boat is loaded with
people sitting just right, they both are going blub blub blub a lot of
the time.

Should I make the mounts, or just buy motors with longer shafts?

Steve




Some light reading for you:
http://smalloutboards.com/shaft.htm
http://www.deltaprop.com/linkso.asp




http://www.minnkotamotors.com/selectamotor/ has shaft lengths, etc.

Nah, I think it's time for a foot control. I don't have enough hands to
comfortably and safely do all the things at the right time, and concentrate
on the fish.

Steve