wrote in message
...
On Mar 29, 9:17 am, wrote:
On Mar 29, 3:54 am, wrote:



On Mar 29, 12:03 am, "SteveB" wrote:

My new used trailer has buddy bearings. On one tire, there is a lot of
grease spun out on the wheel and tire. The other not so much. I'm
going to
pull them. What do I look for in terms of wear or failure? Do I spin
the
wheel jacked up before pulling and listen for growl? Is the race
pressed
into the wheel? Onto the spindle? I've done a lot of things
mechanical,
but this is new. And what about the buddy bearings? I've heard both
ways
on those.

Steve

Bearing Buddies are junk. Remove them, and put on normal bearing Caps.
All Bearing Buddies do is allow the grease to be pushed out the inward
side of the axle by the Bearing Buddies when you overload them too
much. I've seen this happen repeatedly.
Pack the bearings by hand, and you will not have this happen
again....that is, after you replace the inner seals on your axles that
have been blown out by over packing the bearings using the
aforementioned " Bearing Buddies".

Only if you're a complete moron that can't grasp the instructions. Oh,
wait, I forgot who I was replying to. They probably aren't the best
choice for you.

The above post coming from a Lake Lanier idiot who doesn't have, or
never owned a trailer.
Go back to Rainbow Country and talk up your home-made swill.You know
more about that than you do about trailers, asswipe Dwarf Army Grunt.

reply:

Hey. Remember me? Got any comments about the post?

Steve

"SteveB" wrote in
:

My new used trailer has buddy bearings. On one tire, there is a lot
of grease spun out on the wheel and tire. The other not so much. I'm
going to pull them. What do I look for in terms of wear or failure?
Do I spin the wheel jacked up before pulling and listen for growl? Is
the race pressed into the wheel? Onto the spindle? I've done a lot
of things mechanical, but this is new. And what about the buddy
bearings? I've heard both ways on those.

Steve



I know there are contrary opinions, but I like my bearing buddies. I
regularly tow in air temps up to 110 deg. F at speeds of 70 mph for 250
miles (L.A. to Laughlin Nev.) Never had a bearing failure. I like the
fact that there is always positive presure which keeps the water out when
you launch. I always "top off" the grease before a long trip. Another
poster pointed out that you can compromise the inboard seal by
overloading with grease, and that's true. But most bearing buddies have a
spring loaded plate that moves outward as you load the grease allowing
extra room while maintaining positive presure inside the hub. Just be
careful you don't push the plate to the limit and leave some room for
expansion.

There is one important maintenance tip you need to know whether you keep
them or get rid of them. You don't know what kind of grease is already in
there or how careful the previous owner maintained the bearing, so you
need to tear it down and repack at the least and install new seals
because it looks like the existing ones are blown. You can never mix
greases with different base materials. There are lots of types, but
basically you're going to be dealing with an Aluminum, Lithium or Calcium
base. It doesn't matter which kind (make sure it's marine wheel bearing
grease), it just has to be the same kind, because a grease of one type
can act as a solvent on a grease of a different type and dissolve it. My
unscientific survey says lithium is the easiet to find (I say this
because I needed calcium and every tube it seemed I looked at was lithium
based.)

akheel wrote:
"SteveB" wrote in
:

My new used trailer has buddy bearings. On one tire, there is a lot
of grease spun out on the wheel and tire. The other not so much. I'm
going to pull them. What do I look for in terms of wear or failure?
Do I spin the wheel jacked up before pulling and listen for growl? Is
the race pressed into the wheel? Onto the spindle? I've done a lot
of things mechanical, but this is new. And what about the buddy
bearings? I've heard both ways on those.

Steve



I know there are contrary opinions, but I like my bearing buddies. I
regularly tow in air temps up to 110 deg. F at speeds of 70 mph for 250
miles (L.A. to Laughlin Nev.) Never had a bearing failure. I like the
fact that there is always positive presure which keeps the water out when
you launch. I always "top off" the grease before a long trip. Another
poster pointed out that you can compromise the inboard seal by
overloading with grease, and that's true. But most bearing buddies have a
spring loaded plate that moves outward as you load the grease allowing
extra room while maintaining positive presure inside the hub. Just be
careful you don't push the plate to the limit and leave some room for
expansion.

There is one important maintenance tip you need to know whether you keep
them or get rid of them. You don't know what kind of grease is already in
there or how careful the previous owner maintained the bearing, so you
need to tear it down and repack at the least and install new seals
because it looks like the existing ones are blown. You can never mix
greases with different base materials. There are lots of types, but
basically you're going to be dealing with an Aluminum, Lithium or Calcium
base. It doesn't matter which kind (make sure it's marine wheel bearing
grease), it just has to be the same kind, because a grease of one type
can act as a solvent on a grease of a different type and dissolve it. My
unscientific survey says lithium is the easiet to find (I say this
because I needed calcium and every tube it seemed I looked at was lithium
based.)
As for grease spinning out when you drive. The trick is to put enough
in to the hub, but not to over fill it. Since the grease is under
pressure, measure how much grease in in the hub by the position of the
outside disk of the buddy bearing (the piece with the zerk). It should
not be more than a quarter of an inch form the outside rim of the
fitting. Grease should not be added until it squirts out the back or
the front.

On Mar 29, 8:22*am, Keith Nuttle wrote:
akheel wrote:
"SteveB" wrote in
:

My new used trailer has buddy bearings. *On one tire, there is a lot
of grease spun out on the wheel and tire. *The other not so much. *I'm
going to pull them. *What do I look for in terms of wear or failure?
Do I spin the wheel jacked up before pulling and listen for growl? *Is
the race pressed into the wheel? *Onto the spindle? *I've done a lot
of things mechanical, but this is new. *And what about the buddy
bearings? *I've heard both ways on those.

Steve

I know there are contrary opinions, but I like my bearing buddies. I
regularly tow in air temps up to 110 deg. F at speeds of 70 mph for 250
miles (L.A. to Laughlin Nev.) Never had a bearing failure. I like the
fact that there is always positive presure which keeps the water out when
you launch. I always "top off" the grease before a long trip. Another
poster pointed out that you can compromise the inboard seal by
overloading with grease, and that's true. But most bearing buddies have a
spring loaded plate that moves outward as you load the grease allowing
extra room while maintaining positive presure inside the hub. Just be
careful you don't push the plate to the limit and leave some room for
expansion.

There is one important maintenance tip you need to know whether you keep
them or get rid of them. You don't know what kind of grease is already in
there or how careful the previous owner maintained the bearing, so you
need to tear it down and repack at the least and install new seals
because it looks like the existing ones are blown. You can never mix
greases with different base materials. There are lots of types, but
basically you're going to be dealing with an Aluminum, Lithium or Calcium
base. It doesn't matter which kind (make sure it's marine wheel bearing
grease), it just has to be the same kind, because a grease of one type
can act as a solvent on a grease of a different type and dissolve it. My
unscientific survey says lithium is the easiet to find (I say this
because I needed calcium and every tube it seemed I looked at was lithium
based.)

As for grease spinning out when you drive. *The trick is to put enough
in to the hub, but not to over fill it. *Since the grease is under
pressure, measure how much grease in in the hub by the position of the
outside disk of the buddy bearing (the piece with the zerk). *It should
not be more than a quarter of an inch form the outside rim of the
fitting. *Grease should not be added until it squirts out the back or
the front.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When I replaced my brakes the Kodiak hubs came with oil bath seals and
caps. I was a little apprehensive about using them but I gave them a
shot. So far I really like them. They run very cool and it is easy to
check the oil level or to see if they are getting water in them. I
initially was getting water in one bearing. It turned out I had
damaged one seal when I installed it. Since then they have been
perfect.

Steve P.