On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 22:45:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I did a service on my Yanmar diesel on the weekend (including fuel
filter) and now can't seem to prime it. I've followed the
instructions in the Yanmar manual and although I can get fuel flowing
through the fuel filter bleed valve via the manual fuel pump lever, I
can't seem to get it to 'bleed' beyond the fuel injection pump. I
repeatedly pump via the manual handle but nothing seems to come
through.

I tried turning the engine over as I thought it might be an issue with
the 'position' of the fuel injection pump but this did not seem to
make a difference.

Did you fill the new fuel filter with clean fuel before reinstalling
it? If not, that's your problem. Also, lubricate the rubber seal on
the new filter with clean fuel before you install it.

You will not normally be able to bleed fuel on the output side of the
injection pump without cranking the engine. Back off the nut on one
of the injection lines going to the cylinders, crank the engine while
you watch and see if fuel is coming out. If not, re-bleed the input
side of the injection pump and try again.

"Wayne.B" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 22:45:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I did a service on my Yanmar diesel on the weekend (including fuel
filter) and now can't seem to prime it. I've followed the
instructions in the Yanmar manual and although I can get fuel flowing
through the fuel filter bleed valve via the manual fuel pump lever, I
can't seem to get it to 'bleed' beyond the fuel injection pump. I
repeatedly pump via the manual handle but nothing seems to come
through.

I tried turning the engine over as I thought it might be an issue with
the 'position' of the fuel injection pump but this did not seem to
make a difference.

Did you fill the new fuel filter with clean fuel before reinstalling
it? If not, that's your problem. Also, lubricate the rubber seal on
the new filter with clean fuel before you install it.

You will not normally be able to bleed fuel on the output side of the
injection pump without cranking the engine. Back off the nut on one
of the injection lines going to the cylinders, crank the engine while
you watch and see if fuel is coming out. If not, re-bleed the input
side of the injection pump and try again.



I helped a guy get his 3GM30 Yanmar going after he ran it out of fuel.
The 3GM30 is the 3 cylinder version of the 2GM20 (and happens to be the
same as the engine in my John Deere tractor).

Anyway, neither of us really knew what we were doing, but we basically did
as Wayne suggested. After putting fuel in the tank and removing and priming
the filters it wouldn't run. It would fire and die. We then loosened the
nut on the injector lines going into the cylinder head, one at a time, and
cranked the engine until fuel was leaking out, then retightened the nut.
Then we would move to the next line and repeat.

It took about 3 or 4 times going through this process for each cylinder
before all the air was bled from the lines and it fired up and remained
running. I've kept this process in my memory just in case I ever run the
tractor out of fuel, but fortunately I have not in 8 years.

Eisboch

On Mar 22, 10:09*pm, "Eisboch" wrote:
"Wayne.B" wrote in message

...



On Sat, 21 Mar 2009 22:45:59 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I did a service on my Yanmar diesel on the weekend (including fuel
filter) and now can't seem to prime it. *I've followed the
instructions in the Yanmar manual and although I can get fuel flowing
through the fuel filter bleed valve via the manual fuel pump lever, I
can't seem to get it to 'bleed' beyond the fuel injection pump. *I
repeatedly pump via the manual handle but nothing seems to come
through.

I tried turning the engine over as I thought it might be an issue with
the 'position' of the fuel injection pump but this did not seem to
make a difference.

Did you fill the new fuel filter with clean fuel before reinstalling
it? * If not, that's your problem. *Also, lubricate the rubber seal on
the new filter with clean fuel before you install it.

You will not normally be able to bleed fuel on the output side of the
injection pump without cranking the engine. * Back off the nut on one
of the injection lines going to the cylinders, crank the engine while
you watch and see if fuel is coming out. * If not, re-bleed the input
side of the injection pump and try again.

I helped a guy get his 3GM30 Yanmar going after he ran it out of fuel.
The 3GM30 is the 3 cylinder version of the 2GM20 *(and happens to be the
same as the engine in my John Deere tractor).

Anyway, neither of us really knew what we were doing, but we basically did
as Wayne suggested. After putting fuel in the tank and removing and priming
the filters it wouldn't run. *It would fire and die. *We then loosened the
nut on the injector lines going into the cylinder head, one at a time, and
cranked the engine until fuel was leaking out, then retightened the nut.
Then we would move to the next line and repeat.

It took about 3 or 4 times going through this process *for each cylinder
before all the air was bled from the lines and it fired up and remained
running. * I've kept this process in my memory just in case I ever run the
tractor out of fuel, but fortunately I have not in 8 years.

Eisboch

Guys, thanks so much. That's great advice.

My interpretation (which could be totally wrong of course) of the
bleeding instructions in the Yanmar manual suggested that you would be
able to bleed all the way to the injectors via the manual pump - which
I could not do. It didn't make sense to me that you could pump diesel
through the high-pressure fuel pump with the puny little manual pump
but that was how I read it and so that is what I was trying to do.

Anyway, your advice makes logical sense so I'll try that again and
hopefully, I'll have more luck.

Thanks again for your help.

Greg

wrote in message
...

Anyway, your advice makes logical sense so I'll try that again and
hopefully, I'll have more luck.

Thanks again for your help.

Greg

------------------------

The procedure we used was like this:

One guy cranked the engine while the other slightly loosened the fuel line
nut until fuel started squirting out. You could see the air bubbling out as
well. While still cranking the engine, we'd re-tightened the nut, then
we'd move on to the next cylinder. Like I said, it took several times on
each line to get all the air out so the engine would stay running. In
fact, we killed the battery and had to take a break while recharging it
halfway through the process.

There may be an easier way, but neither of us were diesel experts. It
worked though.

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...

Anyway, your advice makes logical sense so I'll try that again and
hopefully, I'll have more luck.

Thanks again for your help.

Greg

------------------------

The procedure we used was like this:

One guy cranked the engine while the other slightly loosened the fuel line
nut until fuel started squirting out. You could see the air bubbling out
as well. While still cranking the engine, we'd re-tightened the nut,
then we'd move on to the next cylinder. Like I said, it took several
times on each line to get all the air out so the engine would stay
running. In fact, we killed the battery and had to take a break while
recharging it halfway through the process.

There may be an easier way, but neither of us were diesel experts. It
worked though.

Eisboch


Another suggestion ....

When it starts acting like it's trying to run but still dies, open the
throttle up quite a bit before you start cranking it. Like almost wide
open. Sometimes the extra RPM it builds up allows it to stumble through
the last remaining bubbles of air.

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...

Anyway, your advice makes logical sense so I'll try that again and
hopefully, I'll have more luck.

Thanks again for your help.

Greg

------------------------

The procedure we used was like this:

One guy cranked the engine while the other slightly loosened the fuel
line nut until fuel started squirting out. You could see the air
bubbling out as well. While still cranking the engine, we'd
re-tightened the nut, then we'd move on to the next cylinder. Like I
said, it took several times on each line to get all the air out so the
engine would stay running. In fact, we killed the battery and had to
take a break while recharging it halfway through the process.

There may be an easier way, but neither of us were diesel experts. It
worked though.

Eisboch


Another suggestion ....

When it starts acting like it's trying to run but still dies, open the
throttle up quite a bit before you start cranking it. Like almost wide
open. Sometimes the extra RPM it builds up allows it to stumble through
the last remaining bubbles of air.

Eisboch



Years ago, one of my drivers ran the diesel delivery truck out of fuel. As
he was in the service station. Lucky for us. Another trucker with a Semi
pulled over next to him and use a line off an air compressor he had. (worked
great for an air powered lube gun he said as well as tires) and Pressurized
the fuel tank via the air hose and a rag. Driver said after few times
turning over the engine, she ran. I guess the air in the injector lines is
forced out quickly by the tank pressure. Ford 550.

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 20:19:49 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote:

Another trucker with a Semi
pulled over next to him and use a line off an air compressor he had. (worked
great for an air powered lube gun he said as well as tires)

All semi's have an air compressor for the brakes. My Mercedes backhoe
had about 48 places to grease every day, counting the hoe, the loader,
and the tractor. All the ball joints and so on were to be greased
daily. It had air brakes, and I had the air grease gun.

Casady

On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 09:28:37 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:

he procedure we used was like this:

One guy cranked the engine while the other slightly loosened the fuel line
nut until fuel started squirting out. You could see the air bubbling out as
well. While still cranking the engine, we'd re-tightened the nut, then
we'd move on to the next cylinder. Like I said, it took several times on
each line to get all the air out so the engine would stay running. In
fact, we killed the battery and had to take a break while recharging it
halfway through the process.

There may be an easier way, but neither of us were diesel experts. It
worked though.

I have a Mercedes Unimog. When I ran it out of fuel and got air in the
lines, I cranked it till it started. About one minute of cranking and
it started and ran bad. Gradually it smoothed out as one cylinder
after another acquired an air free line.

Casady

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 09:28:37 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:

he procedure we used was like this:

One guy cranked the engine while the other slightly loosened the fuel line
nut until fuel started squirting out. You could see the air bubbling out
as
well. While still cranking the engine, we'd re-tightened the nut, then
we'd move on to the next cylinder. Like I said, it took several times on
each line to get all the air out so the engine would stay running. In
fact, we killed the battery and had to take a break while recharging it
halfway through the process.

There may be an easier way, but neither of us were diesel experts. It
worked though.

I have a Mercedes Unimog. When I ran it out of fuel and got air in the
lines, I cranked it till it started. About one minute of cranking and
it started and ran bad. Gradually it smoothed out as one cylinder
after another acquired an air free line.

Casady


Apparently some diesels will self purge and prime, but not all. The Volvo
engines I had in the Navigator supposedly would self prime and purge but I
never tried, other than restarting after a fuel filter change.

Others can be a bear to purge and get running again. Best bet is just don't
run them out of fuel.

Eisboch

"Eisboch" wrote in message
...

"Richard Casady" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 22 Mar 2009 09:28:37 -0400, "Eisboch"
wrote:

he procedure we used was like this:

One guy cranked the engine while the other slightly loosened the fuel
line
nut until fuel started squirting out. You could see the air bubbling out
as
well. While still cranking the engine, we'd re-tightened the nut, then
we'd move on to the next cylinder. Like I said, it took several times
on
each line to get all the air out so the engine would stay running. In
fact, we killed the battery and had to take a break while recharging it
halfway through the process.

There may be an easier way, but neither of us were diesel experts. It
worked though.

I have a Mercedes Unimog. When I ran it out of fuel and got air in the
lines, I cranked it till it started. About one minute of cranking and
it started and ran bad. Gradually it smoothed out as one cylinder
after another acquired an air free line.

Casady


Apparently some diesels will self purge and prime, but not all. The Volvo
engines I had in the Navigator supposedly would self prime and purge but I
never tried, other than restarting after a fuel filter change.

Others can be a bear to purge and get running again. Best bet is just
don't run them out of fuel.

Eisboch

I just remembered the Ford F-350 diesel PU I had. When it broke down on
the road and they had to replace the high pressure oil pump (pumps fuel to
and through the injectors) it took quite a bit of cranking to get it
running again. The first attempt ran the batteries down (there were two in
that truck) and they had to put a big starting charger on it to keep trying.
I would think that trucks designed for weekend warriors would be self
purging, but I guess not.

Eisboch