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Bimini top brackets
On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:11:43 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:54:32 -0600, Vic Smith wrote: But then don't you get mad about the missing strawberries? That's why I gave up fondling ball bearings. Made me think about the strawberries. Ball bearings? Damn, all these years, I thought they were Ben Wa balls. ;-) Who is Ben Wa? Ben Dover's Chinese brother. -- "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Theodore Roosevelt. |
Bimini top brackets
Tom Francis - SWSports wrote:
On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:11:43 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq." wrote: wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:54:32 -0600, Vic Smith wrote: But then don't you get mad about the missing strawberries? That's why I gave up fondling ball bearings. Made me think about the strawberries. Ball bearings? Damn, all these years, I thought they were Ben Wa balls. ;-) Who is Ben Wa? Ben Dover's Chinese brother. -- "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Theodore Roosevelt. Ohhhh, but why did he ask me to turn my head and cough? |
Bimini top brackets
On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 23:18:08 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:11:43 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq." wrote: wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:54:32 -0600, Vic Smith wrote: But then don't you get mad about the missing strawberries? That's why I gave up fondling ball bearings. Made me think about the strawberries. Ball bearings? Damn, all these years, I thought they were Ben Wa balls. ;-) Who is Ben Wa? Ben Dover's Chinese brother. Ohhhh, but why did he ask me to turn my head and cough? I have no idea. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken |
Bimini top brackets
On Jan 4, 6:34*pm, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote: On Sun, 4 Jan 2009 18:15:26 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: I don't care if they are ball and socket, pinned or magnetically attached. Magnets. KEWL!!! I got one of these for Christmas in my Santa Stocking. http://www.theneocube.com/ I can't stop playing with it when I'm bored. -- "Do what you can, with what you have, where you are." Theodore Roosevelt. Oh, man, I've GOT to have one..... |
Bimini top brackets
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Bimini top brackets
On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:11:43 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:54:32 -0600, Vic Smith wrote: But then don't you get mad about the missing strawberries? That's why I gave up fondling ball bearings. Made me think about the strawberries. Ball bearings? Damn, all these years, I thought they were Ben Wa balls. ;-) Who is Ben Wa? You know Yo Yo Ma, plays the cello? He has a cousin who is a no talent drummer for a garage band. Casady |
Bimini top brackets
On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote:
Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady |
Bimini top brackets
"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in message ... On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 23:18:08 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq." wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 20:11:43 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq." wrote: wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 17:54:32 -0600, Vic Smith wrote: But then don't you get mad about the missing strawberries? That's why I gave up fondling ball bearings. Made me think about the strawberries. Ball bearings? Damn, all these years, I thought they were Ben Wa balls. ;-) Who is Ben Wa? Ben Dover's Chinese brother. Ohhhh, but why did he ask me to turn my head and cough? I have no idea. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Bad breath? |
Bimini top brackets
On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 18:36:43 GMT, (Richard
Casady) wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady I've no idea where the 'buy a better top with heavier tubes, etc.' comes from. The problem was in the swaying of the existing top and the stress put on the mounting brackets. A heavier top would simply increase the torque on the bracket. |
Bimini top brackets
On Jan 5, 2:10*pm, John H wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 18:36:43 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. *And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. *Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. *Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. *You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady I've no idea where the 'buy a better top with heavier tubes, etc.' comes from. The problem was in the swaying of the existing top and the stress put on the mounting brackets. A heavier top would simply increase the torque on the bracket.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Did you find out if you can access enough to get a through the hull bolt? If not, could you add a plate to the top of the gunnel to spread out weight? |
Bimini top brackets
On Mon, 5 Jan 2009 11:10:53 -0800 (PST),
wrote: On Jan 5, 2:10*pm, John H wrote: On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 18:36:43 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. *And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. *Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. *Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. *You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady I've no idea where the 'buy a better top with heavier tubes, etc.' comes from. The problem was in the swaying of the existing top and the stress put on the mounting brackets. A heavier top would simply increase the torque on the bracket.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Did you find out if you can access enough to get a through the hull bolt? If not, could you add a plate to the top of the gunnel to spread out weight? It depends on how the rod holders are fabricated. It looks like they're just held in place with about a dozen screws in the fiberglass behind them. If I can get them out, then I think I can reach the holes where the brackets are mounted. If I can get to them, I'll put a plate under each bracket and through-bolt them. This is another reason not to let the wife in on the boat-buying process! |
Bimini top brackets
John H wrote:
On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 18:36:43 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady I've no idea where the 'buy a better top with heavier tubes, etc.' comes from. The problem was in the swaying of the existing top and the stress put on the mounting brackets. A heavier top would simply increase the torque on the bracket. A narcissistic idiot wrote that. Ignore it and move forward. |
Bimini top brackets
Richard Casady wrote:
On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady Well, the tubes and mounting hardware on my Parker's bimini are heavy duty stainess steel. In fact, the mounting bracket is a heavy duty slide through-bolted to the gunnel tops. One on each side. The only other attachments are for the straps. If it sways, the sway is imperceptible. Looks like this: http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...s/IMG_0416.jpg It's the factory bimini. I suspect some boat manufacturers spec tops more suitable for boats that'll be run on small inland lakes. |
Bimini top brackets
On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 20:54:26 -0500, D K wrote:
John H wrote: On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 18:36:43 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady I've no idea where the 'buy a better top with heavier tubes, etc.' comes from. The problem was in the swaying of the existing top and the stress put on the mounting brackets. A heavier top would simply increase the torque on the bracket. A narcissistic idiot wrote that. Ignore it and move forward. |
Bimini top brackets
On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 20:54:26 -0500, D K wrote:
John H wrote: On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 18:36:43 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady I've no idea where the 'buy a better top with heavier tubes, etc.' comes from. The problem was in the swaying of the existing top and the stress put on the mounting brackets. A heavier top would simply increase the torque on the bracket. A narcissistic idiot wrote that. Ignore it and move forward. What's strange is Harry's idea that the Parker frame is heavier than the Key West frame, which is horse manure. Both Key West and Parker use 316 Stainless Steel, 7/8" diameter frames. The Key West frome is mounted in four places, as it's a bigger bimini than that on Harry's boat. In looking at Harry's picture, I was surprised at how small that bimini was. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H
wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote:
"John H" wrote in message .. . I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:15:37 -0500, John H
wrote: On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message . .. I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. It might be if your Key West is foam filled like my Ranger is. Trust me - that ain't an easy job - I did it to put backing plates in for the down riggers - it wasn't fun. |
Bimini top brackets
John H wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 14:32:47 -0800 (PST), wrote: On Jan 6, 12:17 pm, John H wrote: On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 20:54:26 -0500, D K wrote: John H wrote: On Mon, 05 Jan 2009 18:36:43 GMT, (Richard Casady) wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 16:52:30 -0500, HK wrote: Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Sun, 04 Jan 2009 08:43:17 -0500, John H wrote: The bimini top on my Key West uses a mounting like this" http://tinyurl.com/9ozwsy This bracket allows the frame member mounted therein to rotate from front to back without placing undue stress on the mounting screws. Note, I said screws, not through bolts. However when underway, even slowly, or just at anchor with a small amount of ripple in the water, the bimini top sways from side to side. The side to side motion gets transmitted directly to the screws in the brackets, and causes them to loosen. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before they strip or worse. I'm wondering if there aren't some fittings made that would have a ball socket or some such to allow complete forward and back movement *and* some degree of lateral movement. Anyone know of such a thing? Help! The only way you are going to stop it is to make the stainless tubing fairly rigid - it's not so much the movement in the mount as it is the length of the tubing that is causing your problem. And the only way to stop that is to use heavier wall tubing - it's the wall flex that's the problem, not the mount. Cheap T-tops have the same problem - not enough wall strength in the tubes to make it rigid so they cross brace the hell out of them. Even in custom made, heavy T-tops like mine move without cross bracing. This T-top is very similar to mine - mine is a little taller, made from thicker tubing and is a slightly different design, but the point is that it's cross braced to keep the sway down. http://www.rangerboats.com/flash/gal...id=5511&gid=38 This is mine. http://www.swsports.org/images/Pictu...g%20Boat02.jpg With your current setup, the only way to make it stop is to cross brace the tubing with some sort of cording - maybe bungee cord or similar. What I would do is brace the cornors of the top where the tubing bends. You might be able to do it with bungee cord, but that defeats the purpose - it would cut down on the sway though. -- "An idealist is one who, on noticing that a rose smells better than a cabbage, concludes that it will also make better soup." H.L. Mencken Buy a better top with heavier tubes and connectors. I would take that advice myself, but this is Iowa, and good dealers are scarce, to say the least. Aluminum boats last forever in fresh water, and mine was built in 79. Good luck finding anything made specifically for it. Custom made mail order is about it. Maybe I will take it down the Mississippi and search the ICW for marine canvas shops. Casady I've no idea where the 'buy a better top with heavier tubes, etc.' comes from. The problem was in the swaying of the existing top and the stress put on the mounting brackets. A heavier top would simply increase the torque on the bracket. A narcissistic idiot wrote that. Ignore it and move forward. What's strange is Harry's idea that the Parker frame is heavier than the Key West frame, which is horse manure. Both Key West and Parker use 316 Stainless Steel, 7/8" diameter frames. The Key West frome is mounted in four places, as it's a bigger bimini than that on Harry's boat. In looking at Harry's picture, I was surprised at how small that bimini was.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Mayeb you're worrying about a problem that doesn't exist. Biminis have been made this way for years. Practically all the ones I've seen just have wood style screws going into the fiberglass. No bolts, no backing plates. Can't say I've ever seen one that was torn out unless the owner ran the bimini into something. Mine is built and installed that way and I've had it for 13 years. I ran it into the garage door once after forgetting to put it down and it mangled the tubes up but did nothing to the mounts. The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. I'll try the bungee cord trick, and see if I can get my arm inside the gunwale far enough to reach and through-bolt the brackets. Set the screws in some 3M 5200 if you can't get access for a backing plate. |
Bimini top brackets
Eisboch wrote:
"John H" wrote in message ... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Agreed. If you ever have to drill a hole that big, invest in a RotoZip (or Dremel) with the adjustable hole cutting attachment. It's easy and the hole is very clean. I used my RotoZip for the speakers in my CC. BTW- cover the "foot" of the tool with masking tape to avoid any marks. |
Bimini top brackets
John H wrote:
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. If you are looking to add some marine speakers and the hole locations are good, you could kill two with one, as they say. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap! I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:20:37 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:15:37 -0500, John H wrote: On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. It might be if your Key West is foam filled like my Ranger is. Trust me - that ain't an easy job - I did it to put backing plates in for the down riggers - it wasn't fun. Once I take out the rod storage, that should be obvious. If it's foam filled, I'll drop back five and punt. (bungee cords!) |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:27:54 -0500, D K wrote:
John H wrote: On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. If you are looking to add some marine speakers and the hole locations are good, you could kill two with one, as they say. Not into loud noise on the boat. We will use a little radio once in a while, but not often. |
Bimini top brackets
"John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:49:35 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: wrote in message ... Mayeb you're worrying about a problem that doesn't exist. Biminis have been made this way for years. Practically all the ones I've seen just have wood style screws going into the fiberglass. No bolts, no backing plates. Can't say I've ever seen one that was torn out unless the owner ran the bimini into something. Mine is built and installed that way and I've had it for 13 years. I ran it into the garage door once after forgetting to put it down and it mangled the tubes up but did nothing to the mounts. ============================ I've seen them torn out, but it's usually during a heavy storm with high winds and the boat owner left the boat in a slip with the Bimini up. A couple of years ago I was on my boat in the slip during a Nor'easter. I noticed that a large boat equipped with a Bimini (not a full enclosure) across from me was getting the topside upper station beaten to pieces by the end of one of the stainless supports and mounting bracket that had been torn out by the wind and was being whipped around. I couldn't stand watching it, so I put on the foul weather gear, went over with a screwdriver, lowered the Bimini and tied it up. My boat (and past boats) have full enclosures and during a storm I made sure all the Isinglass windows were zippered up closed. If one was left open the wind would try to catch the top like a sail. Eisboch I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. Bungee stretch. There purpose in life. Get some adjustable straps and strap them to the gunnels. My back straps are that way to keep the top tight. My top snaps to the top of the windshield so not a lot of side movement. |
Bimini top brackets
"John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message . .. I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. There are also blind screws. toggles. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:46:38 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote: "John H" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:49:35 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: wrote in message ... Mayeb you're worrying about a problem that doesn't exist. Biminis have been made this way for years. Practically all the ones I've seen just have wood style screws going into the fiberglass. No bolts, no backing plates. Can't say I've ever seen one that was torn out unless the owner ran the bimini into something. Mine is built and installed that way and I've had it for 13 years. I ran it into the garage door once after forgetting to put it down and it mangled the tubes up but did nothing to the mounts. ============================ I've seen them torn out, but it's usually during a heavy storm with high winds and the boat owner left the boat in a slip with the Bimini up. A couple of years ago I was on my boat in the slip during a Nor'easter. I noticed that a large boat equipped with a Bimini (not a full enclosure) across from me was getting the topside upper station beaten to pieces by the end of one of the stainless supports and mounting bracket that had been torn out by the wind and was being whipped around. I couldn't stand watching it, so I put on the foul weather gear, went over with a screwdriver, lowered the Bimini and tied it up. My boat (and past boats) have full enclosures and during a storm I made sure all the Isinglass windows were zippered up closed. If one was left open the wind would try to catch the top like a sail. Eisboch I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. Bungee stretch. There purpose in life. Get some adjustable straps and strap them to the gunnels. My back straps are that way to keep the top tight. My top snaps to the top of the windshield so not a lot of side movement. My bimini is much like this one, with brackets fore and aft, and straps in addition. http://www.computerpros.us/ebayimage...BiminiTop2.JPG The only movement I get is a side to side swaying. A little swaying is OK, as long as it doesn't stress the brackets too much. There is enough play in the brackets that a little sway doesn't hurt. Bungees stretch, but they will greatly reduce the amount of sway. If you mean going from the top of the bimini to the opposite side gunwale, that's too much interference with walking. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote: "John H" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. There are also blind screws. toggles. You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me. But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea. Have you used them in fiberglass? |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H
wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap! I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than normal would do the trick. These guys did mine: http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm I've seen work done by these folks - high quality. http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer top which would give you more shade. You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which would give you more shade. Oh - I forgot. Told you so. :) |
Bimini top brackets
Tom Francis - SWSports wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:15:37 -0500, John H wrote: On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. It might be if your Key West is foam filled like my Ranger is. Trust me - that ain't an easy job - I did it to put backing plates in for the down riggers - it wasn't fun. The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and go for a ride. |
Bimini top brackets
"Tom Francis - SWSports" wrote in message ... It might be if your Key West is foam filled like my Ranger is. Trust me - that ain't an easy job - I did it to put backing plates in for the down riggers - it wasn't fun. Good point. I forgot about the possibility of foam filled boats. The only problem with setting the screws with 5200 is that it does nothing to spread the stresses over a wide surface area. It will certainly keep the screws from coming out though. Eisboch |
Bimini top brackets
"John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill" wrote: "John H" wrote in message . .. On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message m... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. There are also blind screws. toggles. You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me. But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea. Have you used them in fiberglass? They make some special ones for boats. Especially for mounting bow mount trolling motors. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:32:43 -0500, hk wrote:
The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and go for a ride. There's guys who can tow on the highway at 65mph with their bimini up. Not saying that's a good idea. It's all in the design. --Vic |
Bimini top brackets
Vic Smith wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:32:43 -0500, hk wrote: The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and go for a ride. There's guys who can tow on the highway at 65mph with their bimini up. Not saying that's a good idea. It's all in the design. --Vic Well, I wouldn't do that. But my bimini is very solid for what it is. I'll have to take some photos of it next season. The only ones I have are when it was first opened after being unwrapped, and it hadn't been set up properly or adjusted. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:19:58 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports
wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 20:31:46 -0500, John H wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap! I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, A custom made high quality T-top for that boat with a bigger top than normal would do the trick. These guys did mine: http://www.t-tops.com/index.htm I've seen work done by these folks - high quality. http://www.edsmarinesuperstore.com/hard.htm Custom Hard top is about $4,500 (the one above). The base one is $2K and I'm sure for an extra few dollars, they could make a wider, longer top which would give you more shade. You could also get away with a little shorter T-top on that boat which would give you more shade. Oh - I forgot. Told you so. :) Told me *what* so? Nope, can't afford a $4500 t-top right now. Have to wait a bit. Then we'll see. I'll live with the bimini. Thanks for the ideas though. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:04:05 -0800, "Calif Bill"
wrote: "John H" wrote in message .. . On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:47:44 -0800, "Calif Bill" wrote: "John H" wrote in message ... On Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:35:06 -0500, "Eisboch" wrote: "John H" wrote in message om... I don't leave the bimini up if I'm going more than 'no wake' speed. But, often the boat rocks at anchor or even when going slow, if the wind is strong enough. You've talked me out of the 'ball and socket' arrangement I was thinking of. I'll try through bolting after getting the rod holders out. If that doesn't work, bungee cords will have to do. If you want to mount something that will be strong on a boat, there's no good substitute for through bolts and backing plates to distribute the stresses. Often, like in your situation, there is no access to the underside of the surface you want to mount something. One option, (and I am not encouraging you to do this for a bimini ... it's just something to keep in mind) is to install an access or "deck" plate in a vertical surface near the place that you need to get behind for the addition of a backing plate and the bolts/nuts. Access or deck plates are available at marine stores like West Marine and come in several sizes. It's similar to installing a speaker. You use a large hole saw or a jig saw to cut out the proper sized hole for the access plate, then install the flange. The removable plate screws into the flange. When you need to get behind a surface within arm's reach, you simply unscrew and remove the access plate, install your device's backing plate and through bolts, then put the access plate back in place. They look like this: http://images.westmarine.com/full/4581658.jpg Eisboch Thanki. If I can't get to the brackets once I remove the rod holders, I may have to consider something like that. Wouldn't be hard to do. There are also blind screws. toggles. You know, I've used them in sheet rock for ages, and the thought hit me. But, as no one had mentioned it I disregarded the idea. Have you used them in fiberglass? They make some special ones for boats. Especially for mounting bow mount trolling motors. I'll look. Thanks. With all these ideas, the job should be pretty easy. |
Bimini top brackets
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:22:03 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 21:32:43 -0500, hk wrote: The backing plates for my bimini top's deck hardware were factory installed. I can run at 20-25 mph without the top moving around significanty, or flopping in the wind, or shaking back and forth. Anyone who thinks otherwise is welcome to show up at the dock next summer and go for a ride. There's guys who can tow on the highway at 65mph with their bimini up. Not saying that's a good idea. It's all in the design. --Vic As long as there isn't side to side action, the Key West bimini will take a lot of speed. It's side to side motion that causes the bimini to sway. The front straps would be getting most of the stress while going down the highway, or on plane in the water. |
Bimini top brackets
John H wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:48:50 -0500, Tom Francis - SWSports wrote: On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 19:25:38 -0500, John H wrote: The screws worked themselves loose already. I just worry anytime wood type screws are used in fiberglass - for anything. You know what you might want to try - rebedding them using 3M 5200. That stuff is really strong and with some good stainless screws with an agressive thread, that thing should hold forever. Hell - the T-top on my Ranger was set in place with that stuff before they sunk the screws. I could hang from it before it was secured - no joke. :) Ideas like that are appealing. They're cheap! I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ;) |
Bimini top brackets
On Wed, 07 Jan 2009 01:28:20 -0500, wrote:
On Tue, 06 Jan 2009 23:22:36 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq." wrote: I think the best idea is to take off the damn bimini and put on a t-top. I've got to find one my wife thinks blocks enough sun, Now you are talking. That was my suggestion last year. ;) You need a redneck T top http://gfretwell.com/electrical/the_butt_ugly.jpg LOL!! Although, that's not a bad idea on an old pontoon - it's not like it's going to cost a ton of money. |
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