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2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
....for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the
engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene
wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does* come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again today. To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
John wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does* come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again today. To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John John, The first year had my new engine, I paid the dealer to winterize it. I watched them and made notes. It is very easy, but you still want to do it yourself, Dave Brown has an easy to understand web page. http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-outboard.html |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:07:53 -0500, Boater wrote:
Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... I would call the nearest competent servicing dealer, make an appointment, bring the boat to the shop, and *watch* a qualified mechanic winterize the engine. I'm sure you would. But we're not alike. Wait...I did that with my Yamaha F150. Good. I hope they did a good job. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
John wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does* come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again today. To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent premature stalling from the fogging operation. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:15:55 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: John wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does* come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again today. To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John John, The first year had my new engine, I paid the dealer to winterize it. I watched them and made notes. It is very easy, but you still want to do it yourself, Dave Brown has an easy to understand web page. http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-outboard.html I've done everything Dave mentions in his guide, except the fogging part. That is where I need some help. Dave's guide is good, but not specific enough for my engine. Today I'll try the muffs again. Taking it to a dealer is an option. But, I'd rather learn to do it myself. Besides, the dealer is closed until after New Years day. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Dec 19, 11:21*am, wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - In a minute, there is probably enough residual water in the pump so that it would be fine. I've started my Evinrude many, many times without any water running to it. just wanted to test the battery, make sure it fired, then off. After probably a hundred times of doing this, plus running for many hours fishing, etc. I changed impellers. It was very hard to tell the 3 year old one from the new. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:23:36 -0500, Jim wrote:
John wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does* come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again today. To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent premature stalling from the fogging operation. Thanks Jim. I may try jacking the rpm up a bit. There is good pressure coming out of each muff. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Dec 19, 12:07*pm, Boater wrote:
Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... I would call the nearest competent servicing dealer, make an appointment, bring the boat to the shop, and *watch* a qualified mechanic winterize the engine. Wait...I did that with my Yamaha F150.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yep, if it wasn't for google and your dealer, you wouldn't know anything. They probably laugh..." Here comes that fat guy, probably doesn't know how to get the sparkplug wire off." |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Dec 19, 12:23*pm, Jim wrote:
John wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides.. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Thanks Gene. When I hook the hose to the garden hose adapter, water *does* come out the pee hole. Maybe there was an obstruction and the garden hose adapter setup allowed enough pressure to unjam it. I'll try the muffs again today. To fog the engine, I've got to get enough rpm for the intake to suck in the fogging oil. An idle at 700rpm doesn't do it. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John If the muffs are on tight and the water spills out around the muffs, you can boost the RPMs a little Just until the water pump sucks up all the water without spilling. It's good to get up to 1000 RPM to prevent premature stalling from the fogging operation.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Yep, that's true! |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. Suzuki and Yamaha are two different companies. There is no reason to think that what goes for one goes for both. I'm not even going to wear that all models of Yamaha cannont be run while on the hose attachment. My Yamaha absolutely can NOT be run like that without quickly trashing the water pump. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. If you only feed the water from one side, it will not get where it needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Amen. If you have run one dry for more than a few seconds, it needs to be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has been damaged and will fail without further warning. Hey! It's only about $11,000 to replace the engine. What the hell. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Gene wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:10:55 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. Suzuki and Yamaha are two different companies. There is no reason to think that what goes for one goes for both. I'm not even going to wear that all models of Yamaha cannont be run while on the hose attachment. My Yamaha absolutely can NOT be run like that without quickly trashing the water pump. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. If you only feed the water from one side, it will not get where it needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Amen. If you have run one dry for more than a few seconds, it needs to be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has been damaged and will fail without further warning. This is a bit of armchair quarterbacking...... I would defer to the users manual and the dealer's manual..... I would call a competent dealer's competent service department. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 14:10:35 -0500, Gene
wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:10:55 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. Suzuki and Yamaha are two different companies. There is no reason to think that what goes for one goes for both. I'm not even going to wear that all models of Yamaha cannont be run while on the hose attachment. My Yamaha absolutely can NOT be run like that without quickly trashing the water pump. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. If you only feed the water from one side, it will not get where it needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Amen. If you have run one dry for more than a few seconds, it needs to be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has been damaged and will fail without further warning. This is a bit of armchair quarterbacking...... I would defer to the users manual and the dealer's manual..... Which is what I'm trying to do. The user's manual leaves some questions. -- We say, "MERRY CHRISTMAS!" John |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Dec 19, 2:57*pm, Boater wrote:
Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:10:55 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 12:06:12 -0500, Gene wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:21:48 -0500, wrote: On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 11:07:20 -0500, John wrote: ...for water to come out the pilot hole with ear muffs attached once the engine has been started and is idling at about 700rpm? Yesterday I was about to fog the engine. I put the muffs on, got a good supply of water going, and cranked the engine. After a minute or so, and no water from the pilot hole, I shut it down. I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. Then, he said, remove the rubber caps on what appears to be the intake manifold and spray into them. This is much easier said than done, and is totally different from what the book says. Also, anyone have a picture of the 'intake silencer' or the 'fogging hole of the silencer cover'. I'm thinking the spray should go into what appears to be the air box through the wire mesh on the inner portion of the box. Help? If you did what the dealer told you, you now need a new water pump impeller. The flush hose fitting is to be used with the engine OFF, as it supplies no water down into the water pump, which is ruined in seconds by runniing without water. Some engines also *require muffs that push water through BOTH sides. Not all muffs do that. With the proper muffs, set up correctly, there should be water from the pilot hole almost instantly when you start the engine. Different animal, but my Suzuki allows operation, not above idle, through the flushing port. Suzuki and Yamaha are two different companies. There is no reason to think that what goes for one goes for both. I'm not even going to wear that all models of Yamaha cannont be run while on the hose attachment. My Yamaha absolutely can NOT be run like that without quickly trashing the water pump. I have had this happen on occasion because I had some insect perpetually trying to build a nest in the pee hole. The engine was getting cooling water, it just wasn't peeing. I can remove the plastic plug that constitutes the pee hole and clean it out. I don't think you have that luxury and I suspect the dealer is trying to get you to essentially back flush a plug out.... at least I *hope* that is what it was. I'd *never* run an engine over about 10-15 seconds without seeing some water or knowing, in some way, that water was circulating.. Latest preferred practice (though I don't get it) is that one must use muffs that push water through BOTH sides of the new Yamahas. If you only feed the water from one side, it will not get where it needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Amen. If you have run one dry for more than a few seconds, it needs to be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has been damaged and will fail without further warning. This is a bit of armchair quarterbacking...... I would defer to the users manual and the dealer's manual..... I would call a competent dealer's competent service department.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - Are they thoroughly vetted to make sure they meet your strict standards? Besides, I know that because you aren't capable that you don't think anybody should, but some people actually enjoy working on their own things, and enjoy learning how to do it properly. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
"John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 17:53:46 -0500, "Billgran"
wrote: "John" wrote in message .. . I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager When some people say they "talked to the dealer", they mean they talked to someone at the dealership. That could be a sales person, yard boy, receptionist, retired father of the owner with a lot of free time now that he's not allowed to drive any more, etc. It doesn't mean he talked to anyone who REALLY knows what he's talking about. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 17:53:46 -0500, "Billgran" wrote:
"John" wrote in message .. . I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager Thanks Bill. That's what the dealer said, as long as I didn't go above idle it was ok. I think I need to find me a new dealer. -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 13:20:26 -0500, Boater
wrote: If you only feed the water from one side, it will not get where it needs to go. Perhaps that is the entirety of John's problem. A dry water pump self destructs in seconds...... Amen. If you have run one dry for more than a few seconds, it needs to be replaced, even if it appears to still be pumping afterwards. It has been damaged and will fail without further warning. Hey! It's only about $11,000 to replace the engine. What the hell. I just replaced the engine on a Lincoln Navigator for half that. Four cams, 32 valve 330 CID, 300 horse. Same specific output as a 57 chevy. Casady |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
"Richard Casady" wrote in message ... I just replaced the engine on a Lincoln Navigator for half that. Four cams, 32 valve 330 CID, 300 horse. Same specific output as a 57 chevy. Casady Speaking of Navigators, my son-in-law's just died. It used to be my wife's and she gave it to him when she bought a new one. Only 75k miles and the head gasket let go on one side of the engine, causing some other damage in three cylinders. That's not a lot of miles to have that kind of a failure. He was quoted a minimum of $3k to fix it. Traded it instead for a PU truck. Eisboch |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Billgran wrote:
If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill! How the hell are ya? -- Regards, Dave Brown Brown's Marina Ltd http://brownsmarina.com/ |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Billgran wrote:
"John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Gene wrote:
On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 17:53:46 -0500, "Billgran" wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager Curiosity..... why the dual hose stuff? When I had Yamahas (admittedly, old tech) the intake was just an open galley... if there was enough supply volume to prevent cavitation... it seemed no foul. I have to believe that flushing scheme worked, since they served me for 18 years and went North of the border to a new owner to do a second tour of duty...... You would think so but it just doesn't work as well. My smaller outboards and I/O had no trouble with the single sided muff. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K
wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Salmonbait wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait There might be something in the pee hole obstructing the flow. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Salmonbait wrote:
On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:13:45 -0500, Jim wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait There might be something in the pee hole obstructing the flow. That's what I thought, but if I hook the hose up to the hose attachment on the engine, water then comes out of the pee hole. It's very confusing. -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Salmonbait wrote:
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:13:45 -0500, Jim wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait There might be something in the pee hole obstructing the flow. That's what I thought, but if I hook the hose up to the hose attachment on the engine, water then comes out of the pee hole. It's very confusing. -- Salmonbait This might be a stupid question but I gotta ask. When you have the muffs on and you are looking for water from the pee hole, is the engine running? |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him. The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the name from Yamaha. Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I could take some pictures if you desire. Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Salmonbait wrote:
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him. The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the name from Yamaha. Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I could take some pictures if you desire. Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait Oh...I thought maybe you were going to lift the engine off the boat and mount it so its lower unit went into a garbage can, like I used to do back in the 50's with my 1-1/2 hp Eninrude outboard and later with my Ducktwin. I'm "conservative" when it comes to expensive toys. I wouldn't mess around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150. The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too. "First...do no harm." |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Boater wrote:
Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. Here really should have purchased a Parker from Tri-State, now that is a real boat. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:20:30 -0500, Jim wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:13:45 -0500, Jim wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait There might be something in the pee hole obstructing the flow. That's what I thought, but if I hook the hose up to the hose attachment on the engine, water then comes out of the pee hole. It's very confusing. -- Salmonbait This might be a stupid question but I gotta ask. When you have the muffs on and you are looking for water from the pee hole, is the engine running? Nothing stupid about that, given my overall lack of outboard maintenance skills as demonstrated hereon! Yes. That's what got me worried. Earlier someone said to get the rpm up a little. Yesterday I tried it at about 1500 rpm for a few seconds, still nothing from the pee hole. -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Jim wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait There might be something in the pee hole obstructing the flow. How did this conversation degrade from discussing a Yamaha F150 to suddenly a conversation on Kidney Stones? Damn those things hurt. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:32:59 -0500, Boater wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him. The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the name from Yamaha. Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I could take some pictures if you desire. Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait Oh...I thought maybe you were going to lift the engine off the boat and mount it so its lower unit went into a garbage can, like I used to do back in the 50's with my 1-1/2 hp Eninrude outboard and later with my Ducktwin. Don't know what gave you that idea. I had mentioned an engine hoist. I'm "conservative" when it comes to expensive toys. I wouldn't mess around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150. The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too. "First...do no harm." When I got an MGB GT back in 1976, I had a choice - be conservative, or learn. I've always figured that if I break something trying to fix it, then I'll have a mechanic fix it. Who knows, I may end up taking it to Tri-State, but not until I've tried. BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:35:51 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: Boater wrote: Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. Here really should have purchased a Parker from Tri-State, now that is a real boat. If Tri-State had sold Key Wests, then they'd be my dealer. I don't have the urge for a Parker any more. At one time I thought the 25'er that Harry had would be a great boat to own. Now I'm much happier with a smaller boat that I can take anywhere easily. -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:43:34 -0500, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: Jim wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait There might be something in the pee hole obstructing the flow. How did this conversation degrade from discussing a Yamaha F150 to suddenly a conversation on Kidney Stones? Damn those things hurt. The Yamaha book calls said hole the 'pilot hole'. Why? I don't know. Yesterday Gene, Bill, or someone called it the 'pee hole'. You're right, mine must have a gall stone. -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Salmonbait wrote:
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:32:59 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him. The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the name from Yamaha. Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I could take some pictures if you desire. Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait Oh...I thought maybe you were going to lift the engine off the boat and mount it so its lower unit went into a garbage can, like I used to do back in the 50's with my 1-1/2 hp Eninrude outboard and later with my Ducktwin. Don't know what gave you that idea. I had mentioned an engine hoist. I'm "conservative" when it comes to expensive toys. I wouldn't mess around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150. The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too. "First...do no harm." When I got an MGB GT back in 1976, I had a choice - be conservative, or learn. I've always figured that if I break something trying to fix it, then I'll have a mechanic fix it. Who knows, I may end up taking it to Tri-State, but not until I've tried. BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait The problem with these damned modern outboards is that the "breakage" can be very, very expensive to fix. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 09:00:06 -0500, Boater wrote:
Salmonbait wrote: On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:32:59 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him. The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the name from Yamaha. Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I could take some pictures if you desire. Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait Oh...I thought maybe you were going to lift the engine off the boat and mount it so its lower unit went into a garbage can, like I used to do back in the 50's with my 1-1/2 hp Eninrude outboard and later with my Ducktwin. Don't know what gave you that idea. I had mentioned an engine hoist. I'm "conservative" when it comes to expensive toys. I wouldn't mess around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150. The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too. "First...do no harm." When I got an MGB GT back in 1976, I had a choice - be conservative, or learn. I've always figured that if I break something trying to fix it, then I'll have a mechanic fix it. Who knows, I may end up taking it to Tri-State, but not until I've tried. BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait The problem with these damned modern outboards is that the "breakage" can be very, very expensive to fix. BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? True, but it's only money. I'd rather be giving it to someone who's working than someone who's not. So far I've been lucky. I never took the MG to the shop for something I screwed up. My Moto Guzzi has been in the shop only one time in the eighteen years I've owned it. And that was 'cause I was too lazy to change a seal. I may go up to Tri-State today, if they're open. I think I'll buy a service manual. This operator's manual sucks. -- Salmonbait |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
Salmonbait wrote:
On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 09:00:06 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:32:59 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sun, 21 Dec 2008 08:17:52 -0500, Boater wrote: Salmonbait wrote: On Sat, 20 Dec 2008 18:47:53 -0500, D K wrote: Billgran wrote: "John" wrote in message ... I called the dealer. He said to connect the hose at the flushing attachment, but not to let the engine get over idle speed. If the dealer said to use the flusher hose and fitting under the motor's powerhead, I'd be having a word with that dealer person. The Yamaha owners manual, service manual, and training seminars state specifically NOT to run the motor using it. Only run the motor with the "earmuff" type flushers around the gearcase, preferably the dual hose feed style muffs. Bill Grannis service manager I had to buy the double sided muffs for the 115 - the single doesn't cut it. The rectangular type seems to also work better than the round ones. Don't know about the 90 - it's hasn't seen sal****er yet. I've got the double sided muffs, the best one's West Marine sells, with water coming to both sides. Maybe the impeller's shot. Today I'm going to put the engine in a big garbage can, fill the can with water and start the engine. If I don't get some water from the 'pee hole' then I'll know something's dicked up with the enging. -- Salmonbait Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. You are probably correct. But, Tri-State didn't sell Key West boats. The dealer where I bought the boat is not the problem. He's down south of Tappahanock, about two hours from here. I've been very happy with him. The local guy is a Yamaha certified repair facility in Dumfries. I got the name from Yamaha. Actually, getting the lower unit in a big garbage can is not that big a deal. Raise the engine, put the garbage can over the lower unit, lower the engine, and fill the can with water. I don't have a video camera, but I could take some pictures if you desire. Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait Oh...I thought maybe you were going to lift the engine off the boat and mount it so its lower unit went into a garbage can, like I used to do back in the 50's with my 1-1/2 hp Eninrude outboard and later with my Ducktwin. Don't know what gave you that idea. I had mentioned an engine hoist. I'm "conservative" when it comes to expensive toys. I wouldn't mess around with that engine until I knew exactly what I was doing. I watched one of "Harvey's Lads" change the oil and filters and winterize my F150. The side benefit is that those guys back the boat and engine into one of the big service tanks, hook up the computer, and run the diagnostics, too. "First...do no harm." When I got an MGB GT back in 1976, I had a choice - be conservative, or learn. I've always figured that if I break something trying to fix it, then I'll have a mechanic fix it. Who knows, I may end up taking it to Tri-State, but not until I've tried. BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? -- Salmonbait The problem with these damned modern outboards is that the "breakage" can be very, very expensive to fix. BTW, you missed the second half of my post: Now, what about personal insults and name-calling, don't you think it's time to quit? True, but it's only money. I'd rather be giving it to someone who's working than someone who's not. So far I've been lucky. I never took the MG to the shop for something I screwed up. My Moto Guzzi has been in the shop only one time in the eighteen years I've owned it. And that was 'cause I was too lazy to change a seal. I may go up to Tri-State today, if they're open. I think I'll buy a service manual. This operator's manual sucks. -- Salmonbait Call first. The service department is closed on Sundays, but the parts department is open. They might have to order the shop manual for you; it is unlikely they or any other dealer stocks all the various shop manuals. They'll need your motor serial number to order the right manual. |
2008 Yamaha F150 - How long should it take...
On Dec 21, 8:35*am, "Reginald P. Smithers III, Esq."
wrote: Boater wrote: Please have someone videotape your putting the engine in a big gargage can. I don't get warm feelings of confidence from the dealer where you bought that boat. The few times you have indicated the "advice" he has given you, it has turned out to be "unusual." You should have bought that Yamaha from Tri-State. If you had, by now you would know how to properly fog the engine. Here really should have purchased a Parker from Tri-State, now that is a real boat. And there is no other boat worth owning. |
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