Make it a part of your launching ritual to unplug the electricals of the
trailer before launching, and the plug, winch needs, drive in proper spot,
etc etc.
I have been launching for years and enjoy watching the busy boat ramp on a
hot Saturday to see how many people just have no clue. I have seen more
jackknives, forgotten plugs, boat wont start, etc etc, just always remember
to unplug your trailer before submersing it.








"Steve Lomax" wrote in message
...
Here in the UK everyone uses a "Trailerboard" with lights, number plate,
reflectors and a long cable to the hitch socket. The board is fastened to
the back of the trailer or boat, usually with elastic 'Bungees'. See link
below. It takes a few minutes to attach them but this inconvienience is
far
outweighted by the ease of fault finding. (You can fiddle with the bulb
with
your foot on the brake pedal). I have often wondered why no one here ever
uses the better looking lights already fitted to US trailers. Perhaps this
is why.

http://www.lomaxelectrical.btinternet.co.uk/boat.htm

Steve

"Lakewood Electric Ltd." wrote in message
a...
1-Ttrailer lights have the gaps to more easily drain the water after
emersion
2-Unplug the lights befor you back the trailer in to avoid cracking the
glass lamp
3- Clean the contacts on the lamps and in the socket with a light
abravive
(pot scrubber?).Do not clean
with a wire brush!
4- Pack inside socket base with a non-conductive waterproof grease
before
re-inserting lamps
5- Happy trailering :-)
Jim
n0sPaM" wrote in message
le.rogers.com...
I have a NorthTrail trailer for my 14' boat, I just discovered that
the
trailer lights are not sealed by any rubber washer. Bascially I can
see
gaps
between the fittings (by design?). So I assume everytime I load my
boat,
the
water actually gets into the lights and have direct contact with the
light
bulb.

Is that normal??

If water really gets in, why isn't it get short circuited? is it
because
of
12V? if the light bulb is hot, the cold water probably will break the
glass
of the bulb? It sounds scary to me. but the whole thing is still
working
fine.. just wondering....

NS

If they have sealed lights, no need to unplug. I never unplug anymore.

--
Steve
=======================
Remove the not dot from my address to abuse my email box
" Tuuk" wrote in message
...
Make it a part of your launching ritual to unplug the electricals of the
trailer before launching, and the plug, winch needs, drive in proper spot,
etc etc.
I have been launching for years and enjoy watching the busy boat ramp on a
hot Saturday to see how many people just have no clue. I have seen more
jackknives, forgotten plugs, boat wont start, etc etc, just always
remember
to unplug your trailer before submersing it.








"Steve Lomax" wrote in message
...
Here in the UK everyone uses a "Trailerboard" with lights, number plate,
reflectors and a long cable to the hitch socket. The board is fastened
to
the back of the trailer or boat, usually with elastic 'Bungees'. See
link
below. It takes a few minutes to attach them but this inconvienience is
far
outweighted by the ease of fault finding. (You can fiddle with the bulb
with
your foot on the brake pedal). I have often wondered why no one here
ever
uses the better looking lights already fitted to US trailers. Perhaps
this
is why.

http://www.lomaxelectrical.btinternet.co.uk/boat.htm

Steve

"Lakewood Electric Ltd." wrote in message
a...
1-Ttrailer lights have the gaps to more easily drain the water after
emersion
2-Unplug the lights befor you back the trailer in to avoid cracking
the
glass lamp
3- Clean the contacts on the lamps and in the socket with a light
abravive
(pot scrubber?).Do not clean
with a wire brush!
4- Pack inside socket base with a non-conductive waterproof grease
before
re-inserting lamps
5- Happy trailering :-)
Jim
n0sPaM" wrote in message
le.rogers.com...
I have a NorthTrail trailer for my 14' boat, I just discovered
that
the
trailer lights are not sealed by any rubber washer. Bascially I can
see
gaps
between the fittings (by design?). So I assume everytime I load my
boat,
the
water actually gets into the lights and have direct contact with the
light
bulb.

Is that normal??

If water really gets in, why isn't it get short circuited? is it
because
of
12V? if the light bulb is hot, the cold water probably will break
the
glass
of the bulb? It sounds scary to me. but the whole thing is still
working
fine.. just wondering....

NS

Simplest way to go is replace your lights with sealed units such as
Trucklite or some brand of sealed LED's. LED's are the way to go. LED's are
brighter, waterproof, don't get hot, use less power, and all the brands I've
seen have a lifetime warranty.
I've worked on hundreds of tractor/trailers that have had them for years and
the only ones I've had to change have been damaged due to an accident.


"Marcus AAkesson" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 20 Jun 2003 15:35:26 GMT, "n0sPaM"
wrote:

I have a NorthTrail trailer for my 14' boat, I just discovered that the
trailer lights are not sealed by any rubber washer. Bascially I can see
gaps
between the fittings (by design?). So I assume everytime I load my boat,
the
water actually gets into the lights and have direct contact with the
light
bulb.

Just a question, don't You have removable light ramps on the trailers
over there? It's pretty much standard on our trailers. Remove all the
back lights before submerging the trailer, and no more problems.


/Marcus

--
Marcus AAkesson
Gothenburg Callsigns: SM6XFN & SB4779
Sweden
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