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First recorded activity by BoatBanter: Aug 2006
Posts: 12
Default Nilsson-Maxwell Windlass 3% or 10% V drop?

On Fri, 16 May 2008 09:52:53 -0700 (PDT), Bob
wrote:

On May 15, 7:33*pm, Richard Edwards
wrote:


Given the price of copper today you are going to spend a lot of dosh!


Yup..... should did this a few years ago.


Questions
Why not just replace with the same CSA as present?


Well, Im the kind of guy who does not trust the decessions of prior
owners.

What is the main reason for the change?
Richard


Hi Richard:
I am routing a bunch of my wiring and while digging behind shelvs and
bunks I found 2 splices (lugs-3/8" nut/bolt-tape) in both cables and
two spots on one cable that had a nick in the insulation. The necks
had green powder spilling out and the cable was swelled. So I think
replacing is resonable here.

So what voltage drop is resonable for a windlass motor: 3% or 10% or
someplace in-between?
Bob

Ok replacement sounds very valid. I cannot comment on cable sizes as I
have no info on the motors discussed. However replacement with the
same size cable as current is still valid. You are replacing because
of crappy connections (which should not be there) and corrossion
damage. If everything worked well with all of these faults then new
cable of the same CSA will also work. Unless you feel that the current
setup is oversized? Given that you may NEED the windlass when your
battery is LOW go for the lowest % you can afford IMHO but no smaller
than existing.

I fully expect your next post to say "Whilst further digging along the
cable route I found more connections with a variety of different size
cables between them". I have seen it before G Welding cable is a
good option though "Calder" discusses moisture penetration IIRC. I
have never seen problems except at badly made lugs but my work is
freshwater inland. With welding cable, Hex crimped lugs and adhesive
line heatshrink the installation would see you through the rest of
your days G

--
Richard


 
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