The simple solution is to shut the engine down for a minute while you
disconnect B+. The problem with breaking the output and frying the diodes
only happens when the alternator is putting out power.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
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"Manlio" wrote in message
...
Followup to msg on Tue, 29 Apr 2008 01:18:41 +1000, "Faire dinkum"
:
(Original msg on bottom)

The output voltage is no more regulated and current flows
continuously in order to start warming up the batteries, i.e. the
regulator doesnt switch off the charge. I suppose it has been due to
temperature failure as the solid state regulator may have similar
problem.

The alternator is a Valeo type with only the B+ Negative and D+ wires
on output. I thought the D+ was the lamp line. I suppose you mean that
D+ is the excitation line. ( I had the idea it was internally
connected, then not reachable).
Pls be so kind to confirm.

Thanks for the fast answer.

Manlio


Just disconnect the field wire from the alternator.
I wouldn't say that it couldn't happen but what sort of regulator failure
do
you envision that would result in overcharging the batteries?

"Manlio" wrote in message
news
there is a simple way to stop the alternator delivering current when
the regulator has a failure ?
Just not to overcharge the batteries.
According to what I know the B+ cannot be open (diode break), so as
the belt cannot be pulled away due to the water pump.

Thanks for any idea.

Manlio