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#1
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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Mounting a radome
Hello all,
I am having a T-Top made for my boat on which I will install a Raymarine radome. Is there any advantage to mounting it on "power mount" (Seaview) as opposed to mounting it directly on the top, other than gaining a few inches in height? The top will be canvas with a mounting plate installed. Thanks, bob baldwin |
#2
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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Mounting a radome
"bob baldwin" wrote in message ... Hello all, I am having a T-Top made for my boat on which I will install a Raymarine radome. Is there any advantage to mounting it on "power mount" (Seaview) as opposed to mounting it directly on the top, other than gaining a few inches in height? The top will be canvas with a mounting plate installed. Thanks, bob baldwin A few inches in height won't make a world of difference, assuming your bow doesn't rise too high while underway and hide the view straight ahead. I'm not familiar with the current RayNav domes, but in the past, some had attach fasteners (Just for the dome cover, now) which pointed up from under the lower half of the dome. If that's the case, it is helpful to have enough clearance to get a screwdriver or wrench under the dome. Old Chief Lynn |
#3
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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Mounting a radome
I am having a T-Top made for my boat on which I will install a
Raymarine radome. Is there any advantage to mounting it on "power mount" (Seaview) as opposed to mounting it directly on the top, other than gaining a few inches in height? The top will be canvas with a mounting plate installed. How much clearance is there? Enough to let you install/remove the canvas without the radome interfering? The mounts generally let you get two things: clearance and down tilt. Speak with your boat maker about how much tilt is common on your model vessel. You don't want to have the radome's plane of coverage being so low as to not clear the bow (not very likely but something to consider). Also check what the total height would end up being. No sense making the radome higher if it ends up being too low to clear bridges. Again, not terribly likely but something to consider. The seaview mounts also have options on mounting the light behind/above the radome. A nice way to keep the arch from getting overly crowded while keeping that nav light visible. |
#4
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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Mounting a radome
Lynn Coffelt wrote:
"bob baldwin" wrote in message ... Hello all, I am having a T-Top made for my boat on which I will install a Raymarine radome. Is there any advantage to mounting it on "power mount" (Seaview) as opposed to mounting it directly on the top, other than gaining a few inches in height? The top will be canvas with a mounting plate installed. Thanks, bob baldwin A few inches in height won't make a world of difference, assuming your bow doesn't rise too high while underway and hide the view straight ahead. I'm not familiar with the current RayNav domes, but in the past, some had attach fasteners (Just for the dome cover, now) which pointed up from under the lower half of the dome. If that's the case, it is helpful to have enough clearance to get a screwdriver or wrench under the dome. Old Chief Lynn Chief Lynn, Thanks for the info - yes, mine has the holes that are hard to get to, but it came with little screwdriver made to fit up under the dome's edge. A little extra clearance would be nice, but I will probably just mount it level on the top (while on plane) and use that screwdriver. Thanks again, bob baldwin |
#5
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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Mounting a radome
Bill Kearney wrote:
I am having a T-Top made for my boat on which I will install a Raymarine radome. Is there any advantage to mounting it on "power mount" (Seaview) as opposed to mounting it directly on the top, other than gaining a few inches in height? The top will be canvas with a mounting plate installed. How much clearance is there? Enough to let you install/remove the canvas without the radome interfering? The mounts generally let you get two things: clearance and down tilt. Speak with your boat maker about how much tilt is common on your model vessel. You don't want to have the radome's plane of coverage being so low as to not clear the bow (not very likely but something to consider). Also check what the total height would end up being. No sense making the radome higher if it ends up being too low to clear bridges. Again, not terribly likely but something to consider. The seaview mounts also have options on mounting the light behind/above the radome. A nice way to keep the arch from getting overly crowded while keeping that nav light visible. Bill, The canvas on my new roof is "permanent", at least, till it's time to replace it. The canvas is laced all the way around the aluminum framework. I have a Stingray Hydrofoil attached to the outboard that helps keep the bow down, and the top is 80" above the floor. The boat is a small 19' center console. I think I'll make some kind of wedge to tilt the rear of the dome up slightly so that it will be level while at my normal cruise speed. Those holes under the dome almost require the special screwdriver that came with the radar - it's a very close fit. I had seen those power mounts advertised, and didn't know what they really provided. The nav light idea is good too. Thanks to you and everyone that responded with ideas. bob baldwin power cat tiburon topsntowers t-top raymarine 24" dome |
#6
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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Mounting a radome
I think I'll make some kind of wedge to tilt
the rear of the dome up slightly so that it will be level while at my normal cruise speed. Consider using longer bolts and some stainless sleeves. I don't know how your setup actually installs but that's probably the most reasonable way to get the tilt. I had seen those power mounts advertised, and didn't know what they really provided. The nav light idea is good too. Yeah, those are pretty clever aren't they. My arch actually has a stern light that's to the starboard of the radome, on a ratchet mount. The pole goes up, bends to port over the middle of the radome and then up about 6" for the light. Dunno who makes it. But it allows the radome to be centered along with the light. The radome's mounted on an area of the arch that's molded with some tilt already in the fiberglas. The radome's then mounted on sleeves about 2" off the gelcoat. Seems to work nicely both on plane and off. -Bill Kearney |
#7
posted to rec.boats.electronics
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Mounting a radome
Bill Kearney wrote:
I think I'll make some kind of wedge to tilt the rear of the dome up slightly so that it will be level while at my normal cruise speed. Consider using longer bolts and some stainless sleeves. I don't know how your setup actually installs but that's probably the most reasonable way to get the tilt. I had seen those power mounts advertised, and didn't know what they really provided. The nav light idea is good too. Yeah, those are pretty clever aren't they. My arch actually has a stern light that's to the starboard of the radome, on a ratchet mount. The pole goes up, bends to port over the middle of the radome and then up about 6" for the light. Dunno who makes it. But it allows the radome to be centered along with the light. The radome's mounted on an area of the arch that's molded with some tilt already in the fiberglas. The radome's then mounted on sleeves about 2" off the gelcoat. Seems to work nicely both on plane and off. -Bill Kearney Bill, Those sleeves sound like a good idea. I drilled out the mounting plates this weekend and mounted the radome. I'll need to get longer bolts anyway because the mounting plates are a full 1/4" thick. I can put short sleeves in front, and slightly longer ones in back for tilt. Don't think it will need much tilt with the stingray tail on the outboard, but extra clearance for that little screwdriver is always welcome. It's going to hurt drilling through the new canvas top to feed the radar cable up to the dome, but it has to be done. The cable will run inside the t-top tubing all the way up and will be hidden for the most part. Regards, bob baldwin |
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