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A galvanic isolator provides inexpensive protection against galvanic
currents through the ground wire on the shore power cable. Under certain circumstances, those currents can rapidly deplete your zinc(s) and subject your prop to corrosion. The only real alternatives to an isolator for this protection are an isolation transformer (expensive, bulky, and heavy) or the electrical isolation of the boat's underwater metal components from the boat's AC and DC ground system. Good luck. Chuck Steve Lortie wrote: I'm starting to give some thought to my power source on the house boat I am refitting. I am leaning towards using isolators to seperate the battery banks. I would like some experienced feedback on what type of isolator to use; diode, FET or solid state? All I know at this point is that the drop across the diode type can play havoc with the battery life because of the voltage drop never allowing a full charge (?). The other two kinds I have not been able to get anything except that they have a much smaller v drop (FET) or none (solid state). And that is from sales materials. Will using isolators allow me to forgo the 12Both switch and just use an in line on/off switch? May seem like a dumb question but how do I know what size of charger I will need or does size (amps) matter other than how quick it will charge the batteries. I plan on having two start and two house batteries. How important/neccessary is it to have a galvanic isolator on the AC side? THX |