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More Breaker Panel Mess
chuck wrote in news:haikf.8489$N45.4470
@newsread1.news.atl.earthlink.net: You can also isolate your underwater metal (prop, shaft, etc.) from both the AC and DC ground systems, which may be what you meant to suggest. No, I mean to completely separate the DC negative bus/engine block from the AC line Shore Ground bus.... There is no reason whatsoever for them to be connected together. The transformer in the battery charger isolates them. The case of the battery charger should be connected to the AC shore ground ONLY if it's made of metal, which it no longer is any more. The metal case, if it has one, of the AC/DC fridge should be connected to shore ground but NOT the battery negative bus, either.... Shhhh....don't tell anyone.....Lionheart's HOUSE batteries are NOT connected in any way to the STARTING battery's negative ground bus UNLESS you reach under the aft cabin bunk and throw the grounding switch to ON....allowing you to connect the house batteries to the engine for emergency starting or charging the house batteries off the starting battery's alternator in another emergency. Our house battery alternator is connected to the house battery negative bus....NOT engine ground because it's mounted to the boat on a separate bracket and uses a rubber belt. Zincs last YEARS, not months. Nothing on the house circuit connects to underwater that needs a zinc. There are no leakage paths....with even separate DC negative busses. Works great....(c; |
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