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Richard Lane
 
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Default Inverters and NiCd chargers

I use a 19.2 v Sears drill to raise the sail on my Nonsuch 26 and find
that the 75 watt 115 v charger does not function on the output of my
cheap square wave inverter. Would it work with a "modified square wave"?
Dick
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David&Joan
 
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Not likely. Your "cheap square wave inverter" is probably a "modified square
wave" as well. I haven't had much luck with the typical hand tool NiCd
chargers with these inverters.

David
"Richard Lane" wrote in message
. ..
I use a 19.2 v Sears drill to raise the sail on my Nonsuch 26 and find
that the 75 watt 115 v charger does not function on the output of my
cheap square wave inverter. Would it work with a "modified square wave"?
Dick



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I recharge my Dewalt 14 volt batts with a modified sine wave inverter
all the time. Bottom line is that it depends... on the charger, and
on the inverter.

No two are alike.

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Richard Lane
 
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David&Joan wrote:

Not likely. Your "cheap square wave inverter" is probably a "modified square
wave" as well. I haven't had much luck with the typical hand tool NiCd
chargers with these inverters.

David
"Richard Lane" wrote in message
. ..

I use a 19.2 v Sears drill to raise the sail on my Nonsuch 26 and find
that the 75 watt 115 v charger does not function on the output of my
cheap square wave inverter. Would it work with a "modified square wave"?
Dick




Thanks for your interest, I guess I'll have to wait till I have shore
power since "true sine wave" inverters cost more than the drill, Dick
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Kees Verruijt
 
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Richard Lane wrote:
I use a 19.2 v Sears drill to raise the sail on my Nonsuch 26 and find
that the 75 watt 115 v charger does not function on the output of my
cheap square wave inverter. Would it work with a "modified square wave"?
Dick


Usually, the charger consists of a battery holder and a power brick that
goes into your 115/230v outlet. You could bypass the powerbrick if you
have a DC-DC converter (unstabilized, for this purpose) that supplies
the correct voltage. They're a few bucks if you need something = 12v.
12v is easy ;-) Unfortunately, 19.2 v 12v ... So maybe get a 7 to 9 v
drill is cheaper!

I use this to charge DC-powered non-12v small appliances that don't come
with their own "car adapter".

Kees
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Dennis Pogson
 
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Kees Verruijt wrote:
Richard Lane wrote:
I use a 19.2 v Sears drill to raise the sail on my Nonsuch 26 and
find that the 75 watt 115 v charger does not function on the output
of my cheap square wave inverter. Would it work with a "modified
square wave"? Dick


Usually, the charger consists of a battery holder and a power brick
that goes into your 115/230v outlet. You could bypass the powerbrick
if you have a DC-DC converter (unstabilized, for this purpose) that
supplies the correct voltage. They're a few bucks if you need
something = 12v. 12v is easy ;-) Unfortunately, 19.2 v 12v ... So
maybe get a 7 to 9 v drill is cheaper!

I use this to charge DC-powered non-12v small appliances that don't
come with their own "car adapter".

Kees


I have a laptop 12v power supply with varyable output voltage up to 24v.
These should be as readily available in the US as they are here in UK. Try
an electronics shop such as Radio Shack.

Dennis.


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Richard Lane
 
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Jack Erbes wrote:

Richard Lane wrote:

I use a 19.2 v Sears drill to raise the sail on my Nonsuch 26 and find
that the 75 watt 115 v charger does not function on the output of my
cheap square wave inverter. Would it work with a "modified square wave"?
Dick



I know a person that took a dead battery from a similar drill, opened
the battery case up and made themselves a simple adapter with a 10-12
cable that lets them clip onto a auto battery and run the drill off of
that. Those drills have DC motors and the voltage varies with the
speed, so it will work over a pretty wide voltage range. To get full
speed you would need to get up around the rated voltage (14.4, 19.2, etc.).

This adapter was made by cutting open the battery case, removing all the
dead/useless cells, soldering wires to the contacts, and "potting"
everything into place and reclosing the battery case with Liquid Nails
construction adhesive. It was more a tribute native cunning and
inventiveness than professional engineering but it works very well to
manipulate the leveling jacks on a RV.

Another option might be to check the output voltage from your 115V
charger and then look for a DC-DC adapter (for one of the older laptops
or something like that) with a similar output voltage and amperage rating.

I'm a little confused about how to do the latter method though. The
battery charger for my DeWalt 14.4V drill has an output voltage of 42V
as measured across the charging contacts. That is apparently DC, it
does not fluctuate any on my meter. The charged batteries are in the
13-14 Volt range. I think the 42V charger voltage is because the rated
voltage of all the cells (in series) totals a little less than 42V or
something like that. Maybe one of the electrical gurus here can explain
that.

Jack

Yes those are certainly other alternatives however going via the NiCad
battery and then recharging reduces the peak current demand of directly
running the drill from the house battery via a 12/19.2v dc-dc inverter.
In fact I am thinking of replacing the NiCad cells with NiMH cells when
the two packs lose their charge taking ability and so achieving
increased AH.
Dick
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Jack Erbes
 
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Richard Lane wrote:

I use a 19.2 v Sears drill to raise the sail on my Nonsuch 26 and find
that the 75 watt 115 v charger does not function on the output of my
cheap square wave inverter. Would it work with a "modified square wave"?
Dick


I know a person that took a dead battery from a similar drill, opened
the battery case up and made themselves a simple adapter with a 10-12
cable that lets them clip onto a auto battery and run the drill off of
that. Those drills have DC motors and the voltage varies with the
speed, so it will work over a pretty wide voltage range. To get full
speed you would need to get up around the rated voltage (14.4, 19.2,
etc.).

This adapter was made by cutting open the battery case, removing all the
dead/useless cells, soldering wires to the contacts, and "potting"
everything into place and reclosing the battery case with Liquid Nails
construction adhesive. It was more a tribute native cunning and
inventiveness than professional engineering but it works very well to
manipulate the leveling jacks on a RV.

Another option might be to check the output voltage from your 115V
charger and then look for a DC-DC adapter (for one of the older laptops
or something like that) with a similar output voltage and amperage rating.

I'm a little confused about how to do the latter method though. The
battery charger for my DeWalt 14.4V drill has an output voltage of 42V
as measured across the charging contacts. That is apparently DC, it
does not fluctuate any on my meter. The charged batteries are in the
13-14 Volt range. I think the 42V charger voltage is because the rated
voltage of all the cells (in series) totals a little less than 42V or
something like that. Maybe one of the electrical gurus here can explain
that.

Jack

--
Jack Erbes in Ellsworth, Maine, USA - jackerbes at adelphia dot net
(also receiving email at jacker at midmaine.com)
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Steve
 
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In my experience, with charging battery packs, the free standing charge
stations don't like inverters. Even my modified sine wave charger inverter
will overheat the internal components..

I'm told and have noted myself that the wall wart type seem to work fine.

If you still want to charge with a battery charge station, then be very
observant for overheating.


--
My experience and opinion, FWIW
--
Steve
s/v Good Intentions



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