If you feel nostalgic, feel free and change my oil in my 671s or clean
out my breathers. I won't even charge you for the experience!!!!


Larry wrote:
"Franz Eckert" wrote in
. dk:


That should do the trick, don't you think?

Wkr
Franz




My friend, Dan, had a Hatteras 56 motor yacht with twin Detroit Diesel
9V92TA beasts turning 32", 4-bladed wheels. I used to call it "The Train"
because of its 32 volt electrical system, like a train. The engines were
735hp each with the twin turbochargers, one on each bank of 4 cylinders on
each engine.

One day I was "cleaning out the soot" about 5 miles offshore in the
Atlantic from the main helm below and Dan happen to catch a glimpse of the
dual-reading Flowscan flow meters. I thought he was going to have a heart
attack when he saw how HIGH I could make them read "cleaning out the soot".
Kay, his wife, thought it was wonderful as she came up on her plane steady
as a rock from the Naiad Stabilizers I had repaired a couple of weeks
previous. (Blown fuse buried under the engine room false decking.)
"Geez!", he exclaimed. "I didn't know you could make them read THAT
HIGH!", he kept on over the roar of nearly 1500 hp of 2-stroke diesel
power.

I miss his boat. I spent many weekends in its bilge fixing the twin
gensets (8KVA and 20KVA Onans), 5 zone air conditioners, dual Galley Maid
water pumps and their controls that never worked. It took hours to pump
the green frog water out of the main fresh water tanks after i got them
running. That water had been growing in there for years! They were like
trying to fill a swimming pool with a garden hose...

After he sold it, Kay said she was going to buy us a big diesel engine on a
stand and put it in their new garage to make us happy....(c;

Ed wrote in
:

If you feel nostalgic, feel free and change my oil in my 671s or clean
out my breathers. I won't even charge you for the experience!!!!


Had a 6-71 hooked to a big DC generator aboard USS Everglades AD-24 to
power my calibration lab through a DC to 60Hz m-g set, 25KW? Something
like that. Great engine. Uncle never complained about all the hours I put
on her...(c;

Er, ah, I'll pass on the oil changing....thanks.

--
Larry

In article , Larry
wrote:

My friend, Dan, had a Hatteras 56 motor yacht with twin Detroit Diesel
9V92TA beasts turning 32", 4-bladed wheels. I used to call it "The Train"
because of its 32 volt electrical system, like a train. The engines were
735hp each with the twin turbochargers, one on each bank of 4 cylinders on
each engine.

I hate to break it to you.. but Detroit diesel NEVER made a 9V92
engine.... Maybe it was a typo for 8V92.....


Bruce in alaska
--
add a 2 before @

Okay Larry, let me tell you my story.

Here in Demark we pay so many taxes, that we have to do everything ourselves
:-)

For 5 years ago i bought a old military coast control boat.
30 feet, 5 tons, two Mercedes 180 installed.

I was happy, my own boat, yappiiii.

But then the engines began to fail, they were old, very old. I took out one,
and send it for a complete overhaul.
That costs me in the area of 2000 Dollars. NO MORE i said.
So when the second began to fail, and was due to a overhaul, i simply took
out the old engines, and then started
to remove all the old wood that was rotten. One thing lead to another, ans
soon i was standig there with a 30 foot
open rowboat. Everything was rotten. I had to reinforce the bow with 10
layers og glasfiber, because there was
absolutely no wood underneath.
At the same time i removed about 15 pipes through the hull, they were of no
use, and i don't know what they ever where there for.
So i started looking around for some suitable engines (cheap), and found two
Golf Diesel 1.6 liters on the Internet, they costs me about 80 $.
It took me (and a friend) about 2 months making my gears fit on the new
engines, but finally we succeded.
Then i started rebuilding the entire boat, completely new interior, and new
top.
It has taken me almost 3 years, and i am still not done yet.
The gears were of the type with a loooong gearchange handle, so usual morse
cable would not hold for long ( i had already broken 3).
So i thought that maybe air pressure and one air piston on each gear maybe
could do the trick. And despite what everybody told me, i made it work.
I also had to make a new fuel tank. There were two in the old days, but they
flowed from one tank to the other, in a 1/4 inch hose, that took about 1
hour before they leveled out. The fuel outlet was in the bottom of the tank,
so my filters keept getting real dirty.
Almost everything was made by peoble that had absolutely no idear about what
they were doing. So redoing the boat was a good idear, it has become much
stronger and reliable, and now i know exactly how everything is put
together.

So now i can enjoy sailing again, but there still needs a lot of finishing
touch to the boat.
Tell me, just to make me real ****ty overhere, what is the comon price on
two used disel engines, around 70-100 HP, with gear and everything?

If you like i can send you a link to some pictures that illustrates me
rebuilding the boat.

Wkr
Franz

"Larry" skrev i en meddelelse
...
"Franz Eckert" wrote in
. dk:

That should do the trick, don't you think?

Wkr
Franz



My friend, Dan, had a Hatteras 56 motor yacht with twin Detroit Diesel
9V92TA beasts turning 32", 4-bladed wheels. I used to call it "The Train"
because of its 32 volt electrical system, like a train. The engines were
735hp each with the twin turbochargers, one on each bank of 4 cylinders on
each engine.

One day I was "cleaning out the soot" about 5 miles offshore in the
Atlantic from the main helm below and Dan happen to catch a glimpse of the
dual-reading Flowscan flow meters. I thought he was going to have a heart
attack when he saw how HIGH I could make them read "cleaning out the
soot".
Kay, his wife, thought it was wonderful as she came up on her plane steady
as a rock from the Naiad Stabilizers I had repaired a couple of weeks
previous. (Blown fuse buried under the engine room false decking.)
"Geez!", he exclaimed. "I didn't know you could make them read THAT
HIGH!", he kept on over the roar of nearly 1500 hp of 2-stroke diesel
power.

I miss his boat. I spent many weekends in its bilge fixing the twin
gensets (8KVA and 20KVA Onans), 5 zone air conditioners, dual Galley Maid
water pumps and their controls that never worked. It took hours to pump
the green frog water out of the main fresh water tanks after i got them
running. That water had been growing in there for years! They were like
trying to fill a swimming pool with a garden hose...

After he sold it, Kay said she was going to buy us a big diesel engine on
a
stand and put it in their new garage to make us happy....(c;

--
Larry

"Franz Eckert" wrote in
. dk:

Okay Larry, let me tell you my story.

Here in Demark we pay so many taxes, that we have to do
everything ourselves
:-)

For 5 years ago i bought a old military coast control boat.
30 feet, 5 tons, two Mercedes 180 installed.

I was happy, my own boat, yappiiii.

But then the engines began to fail, they were old, very
old. I took out one, and send it for a complete overhaul.
That costs me in the area of 2000 Dollars. NO MORE i said.
So when the second began to fail, and was due to a
overhaul, i simply took out the old engines, and then
started to remove all the old wood that was rotten. One
thing lead to another, ans soon i was standig there with a
30 foot open rowboat. Everything was rotten. I had to
reinforce the bow with 10 layers og glasfiber, because
there was absolutely no wood underneath.
At the same time i removed about 15 pipes through the hull,
they were of no use, and i don't know what they ever where
there for. So i started looking around for some suitable
engines (cheap), and found two Golf Diesel 1.6 liters on
the Internet, they costs me about 80 $. It took me (and a
friend) about 2 months making my gears fit on the new
engines, but finally we succeded. Then i started rebuilding
the entire boat, completely new interior, and new top.
It has taken me almost 3 years, and i am still not done
yet. The gears were of the type with a loooong gearchange
handle, so usual morse cable would not hold for long ( i
had already broken 3). So i thought that maybe air pressure
and one air piston on each gear maybe could do the trick.
And despite what everybody told me, i made it work. I also
had to make a new fuel tank. There were two in the old
days, but they flowed from one tank to the other, in a 1/4
inch hose, that took about 1 hour before they leveled out.
The fuel outlet was in the bottom of the tank, so my
filters keept getting real dirty. Almost everything was
made by peoble that had absolutely no idear about what they
were doing. So redoing the boat was a good idear, it has
become much stronger and reliable, and now i know exactly
how everything is put together.

So now i can enjoy sailing again, but there still needs a
lot of finishing touch to the boat.
Tell me, just to make me real ****ty overhere, what is the
comon price on two used disel engines, around 70-100 HP,
with gear and everything?

If you like i can send you a link to some pictures that
illustrates me rebuilding the boat.

Wkr
Franz


Yo, Franz
Would love to see that!

The last madman ist born yet - I thought it was me....
I have started out on a 28-footer GRP fishing boat hull, sawn
in 3 pieces (and then some)to get decommission pay from the
guvinmint.
I now have the MF aligned and put together - almost all holes
patched, filled, ground etc - and now it awaits osmosis
coating on a totally raw bottom.

But I get off the track....

We're talking engines here...
Well at the local scrapyard I could get a renovated drive line
105 HP marine diesel engine with gear, driveshaft, stern tube
and prop for roughly 10,000 USD + 25% taxes (The VAT has never
caught on in Jutland, however).
And we are talking about us normal, half-broke guys, right?

So good & wise people said:
Since running a diesel with a propeller means 75% output on
the prop, and since the load on the engine corresponds to
constantly driving uphill, go for someting big and solid (I
need 1.5 t. of ballast anyway) and prefreably 6 or 8 cylinders
to minimize vibration.

So my choice of engine turned out to be a Nissan diesel
(Patrol style) 6-cyl. 130 Hp about 15 yr. old diesel. reputed
to be indestructible.
Of course I have to construct a watercooled exhaust flange in
order not to get an exhaust that's too hot to handle, and
provide it with a fresh water cooling system (Sea water won't
do for a number of reasons).
No sweat - almost.
But I got the first one for free - we will test run that one
during the winter and if it turns out OK, we drop it in.
The engine room is made with ample space for a bigger engine,
though.
But the bottom line of this long yarn is that I can get a
renovated and tested Patrol engine for roughly 2000 USD.

The Golf diesel is a good one - but beware the cooling!

And anyway it's better to lose an engine than THE engine :-)

Good Luck
Ole

Franz Eckert wrote:
Hi there.

Goto www1.uk.conrad.com and search for component number 187151 - 14

That should do the trick, don't you think?
Looks interesting. With a diesel engine you would need 2 - a second
one to subtract the fuel returned to the tank by the spill line????

Hi there.

Nope, if you make a T piece on the return fuel, you won't need more that
one.
The return fuel is only there because you need a way to get the air out of
your system, once it is out, you can simply return the (return) to your fuel
system.
So if you put the flow sensor on the intake from the tank, and then make
your return system from the pump go in after the flow sensor, you would have
an accurate measuring. But offcourse you would have to remember to switch
the return system back to the tank if you change filters or anything else
that lets air in to your fuel system. Everything depends on that you don't
have any leaks in your fuel line.

Wkr
Franz
skrev i en meddelelse
oups.com...

Franz Eckert wrote:
Hi there.

Goto www1.uk.conrad.com and search for component number 187151 - 14

That should do the trick, don't you think?
Looks interesting. With a diesel engine you would need 2 - a second
one to subtract the fuel returned to the tank by the spill line????

I am afraid the returned fuel does a lot more than just remove air bubbles.
Routing it directly back into the engine is not a good idea. The extra fuel
cools the injectors. When it does it gets hot. When it gets hot the
specific gravity goes down and when the specific gravity goes down it
contains less energy per unit of volume. The engine's power rating
decreases about 2% for every 15C increase in fuel temperature. The hot
fuel also does not cool the injectors properly so they no longer deliver the
correct amount of fuel.

The extra fuel should be returned to the tank to cool off and the tank's
return fitting should be located away from the pick up for the same reason.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Franz Eckert" wrote in message
. dk...
Hi there.

Nope, if you make a T piece on the return fuel, you won't need more that
one.
The return fuel is only there because you need a way to get the air out of
your system, once it is out, you can simply return the (return) to your
fuel system.
So if you put the flow sensor on the intake from the tank, and then make
your return system from the pump go in after the flow sensor, you would
have an accurate measuring. But offcourse you would have to remember to
switch the return system back to the tank if you change filters or
anything else that lets air in to your fuel system. Everything depends on
that you don't have any leaks in your fuel line.

Wkr
Franz
skrev i en meddelelse
oups.com...

Franz Eckert wrote:
Hi there.

Goto www1.uk.conrad.com and search for component number 187151 - 14

That should do the trick, don't you think?
Looks interesting. With a diesel engine you would need 2 - a second
one to subtract the fuel returned to the tank by the spill line????

"Franz Eckert" wrote in message
. dk...
Hi there.

Nope, if you make a T piece on the return fuel, you won't need more that
one.
The return fuel is only there because you need a way to get the air out of
your system, once it is out, you can simply return the (return) to your
fuel
system.

I beg to differ. It is my understanding that the return fuel MUST be
returned to the tank, because it is used for lubrication and _cooling_ of
the injector pump. If you return it the way you describe, you'll end up with
a very hot diesel loop.

Meindert

I should add:
As the injectors heat up beyond their design temperature they deliver less
fuel which leans out the mixture. Lean engines run hotter which heats up
the injectors more which heats up the fuel more. As the fuel heats up its
vapor pressure goes up. When the vapor pressure exceeds the boost pump
pressure it makes bubbles and bubbles make VAPOR LOCK.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:rJLOe.24$dm.12@lakeread03...
I am afraid the returned fuel does a lot more than just remove air bubbles.
Routing it directly back into the engine is not a good idea. The extra
fuel cools the injectors. When it does it gets hot. When it gets hot the
specific gravity goes down and when the specific gravity goes down it
contains less energy per unit of volume. The engine's power rating
decreases about 2% for every 15C increase in fuel temperature. The hot
fuel also does not cool the injectors properly so they no longer deliver
the correct amount of fuel.

The extra fuel should be returned to the tank to cool off and the tank's
return fitting should be located away from the pick up for the same
reason.

--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Franz Eckert" wrote in message
. dk...
Hi there.

Nope, if you make a T piece on the return fuel, you won't need more that
one.
The return fuel is only there because you need a way to get the air out
of your system, once it is out, you can simply return the (return) to
your fuel system.
So if you put the flow sensor on the intake from the tank, and then make
your return system from the pump go in after the flow sensor, you would
have an accurate measuring. But offcourse you would have to remember to
switch the return system back to the tank if you change filters or
anything else that lets air in to your fuel system. Everything depends on
that you don't have any leaks in your fuel line.

Wkr
Franz
skrev i en meddelelse
oups.com...

Franz Eckert wrote:
Hi there.

Goto www1.uk.conrad.com and search for component number 187151 - 14

That should do the trick, don't you think?
Looks interesting. With a diesel engine you would need 2 - a second
one to subtract the fuel returned to the tank by the spill line????