Crimp or solder but not both. Soldering a connection that is crimped is
thought to weaken it, and crimping a previously soldered connector would
probably lead to a cold solder joint. I suggest that a good way to do your
internal connections would be to crimp the wire and then use the heat shrink
from West Marine that has glue inside. Not only does the shrink provide
protection but the glue seals against moisture. When I last did my battery
cables I used my rigging crimping tool to crimp the connectors to the heavy
wire (two crimps, at right angles to each other) and used the heat shrink
(and for god sakes use a gun, not a lighter) with adhesive. After three
years I had no corrosion at all either at the terminals or underneth them
(did a modification to add additional golf carts).

Scott
"Doug Dotson" dougdotson@NOSPAMcablespeedNOSPAMcom wrote in message
...

"Steve" wrote in message ...
All,

Thanks for the replies. It should mention that just about all the wire I
am working on at the moment is internal to the boat.

I think I will continue to use the untinned wire (bargains on marine
cable
are not common in NZ) but seal the ends as suggested. I am aware of the
issue with fatigue if the copper is too thick and so will use something
with lots of thin strands. I also solder all the small crimp connectors
as
well as crimp them which I believe will offer some protection.

From what I have read, solder and crimping is not a good idea. Soldering
is
not neccesary when using a proper crimp connector. Soldering has a number
of drawbacks. A good crimp connection that is sealed against moisture
is about as good as it gets.


For the nav lights (front, back and mast) I an leaving the existing wire
in place as it is tinned and in excellent condition.

Thanks again,

Steve