If this "seesaw" is the same thing I used at my local chandlery you can get
more control by putting it in a vise and squeezing. It crimped everything
together but didn't look that neat. I've soldered a bunch of these using a
propane torch and I think the finished product is OK if the cable isn't
moving around. If there is a possibility of movement maybe a clamp of some
kind could restrict this?
In addition to electrical contractors you might find a welding equipment
supplier that would be able to help.

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:gOzjc.476$Lm3.246@lakeread04...
I have made up a bunch of them. A big lug swage looks like a small
seesaw with teeth on the bottom. Cost about $20 and works up to 4/0. You
place the lug in the propper notch, position the wire in the lug and
give the device a healthy whack with a BIG hammer. Slip a piece of heat
shrink tube over the lug and toast it with a heat gun.

Steve wrote:

I have been buying #00, #0 and #1 battery cable, (the tinned marine
grade
with the fine strands) and the proper lugs. However, my crimping tool
will
only do up to #4 gage.

I've tried soldering with my 150 watt soldering iron and as others have
worned, the solder wicks up into the strands, making it to stiff.

These stiff ends are hard on the electrical terminals that they attach
to.
I want to redo about a dozen lugs that I have concerns about.

How do all the rest of you crimp or swedge these lugs??

I've seen a tool that is used by the guys building DIY electric cars and
off
grid elect systems. These were just a steel saddle that the lug/cable
end
rest in and a crimping die is driven down over the open side. They were
using a heavy hammer for the force and that give me some concern (lack
of
control, etc.).

I've seen some professional tools in the electrical supply catalogs but
they
are pretty expensive for doing a dozen cable ends. (several hundred
dollars).

I'm thinking there should be some kinda die similar to that used for
NicoPress swedge rigging sleeves. (come to think of it, I have one and I
may
try a test and see if it would work)

Or perhaps the marine suppliers?? But, then I already have purchased,
mail
order, all of my cable. Not sure they would do it for me..

Steve
s/v Good Intentions




--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Gordon Wedman" wrote in message
news:QSAjc.24944$i61.17763@clgrps13...
If there is a possibility of movement maybe a clamp of some
kind could restrict this?
In addition to electrical contractors you might find a welding equipment

The movement, if any is from thermal expansion. Things get a little warm
when the charger is cranking out 100 plus amps. However, I think my problem
is a general lack of flex if there isn't exact alignment to the terminal
stud.

I'm presently replacing on DC terminal stud and insulator block on the back
of my Inverter/Charger.. This unit is in a locker, on a slide out shelf. I
must first attach the battery cables to the back of the unit, secure them to
the shelf and slide the unit into place. Appearently there is some slight
movement of the DC cables while I am sliding it into place because twice now
I have ended up with a high resistance connection on the negative terminal.
This over heated the cables, terminal stud and melted the insulator block. I
just machined a new one from insulator material and increased the stud from
5/16" plated steel to 3/8" bronze.

If this problem presists, I will go to insulated buss bars to bring the
connection out from behind the unit. Then the final connections can be made
after the unit is in place. This is what I have done in and around my
battery disconnects, Hi amp circuit breakers and heavy connection terminals.
Works well and looks great.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

What size alternator? I had to run 350MCM locomotive cable to my
Prosine 2000. (10' run total) Talk about wrasslin' an anaconda in the
bilge. I didn't do those connectors though. I cut the cable to length
and took it all down to the Norfork Southern maintenance barn and got
them to swage it for me. It is really amazing the free help you can get
when you show them a picture of a half finished 45' boat in the
backyard. :-)

Steve wrote:

The movement, if any is from thermal expansion. Things get a little warm
when the charger is cranking out 100 plus amps. However, I think my problem
is a general lack of flex if there isn't exact alignment to the terminal
stud.

I'm presently replacing on DC terminal stud and insulator block on the back
of my Inverter/Charger.. This unit is in a locker, on a slide out shelf. I
must first attach the battery cables to the back of the unit, secure them to
the shelf and slide the unit into place. Appearently there is some slight
movement of the DC cables while I am sliding it into place because twice now
I have ended up with a high resistance connection on the negative terminal.
This over heated the cables, terminal stud and melted the insulator block. I
just machined a new one from insulator material and increased the stud from
5/16" plated steel to 3/8" bronze.

If this problem presists, I will go to insulated buss bars to bring the
connection out from behind the unit. Then the final connections can be made
after the unit is in place. This is what I have done in and around my
battery disconnects, Hi amp circuit breakers and heavy connection terminals.
Works well and looks great.

Steve
s/v Good Intentions



--
Glenn Ashmore

I'm building a 45' cutter in strip/composite. Watch my progress (or lack
there of) at: http://www.rutuonline.com
Shameless Commercial Division: http://www.spade-anchor-us.com

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:MYBjc.638$Lm3.598@lakeread04...
What size alternator? I had to run 350MCM locomotive cable to my
Prosine 2000. (10' run total) Talk about wrasslin' an anaconda in the

I only have a 100 amp alternator but haven't completed the installation. I'm
presently still using the 'silly' 30 amp OEM altenator but I haven't been
using it to charge the main battery bank.

I tried using single #2/0 cable to connect the 2000 watt inverter/charger to
the main battery buss but it was too stiff and on the recommendation of the
OEM (Exide) I ended up using #1 gage cable in pairs to the pos./neg. to gain
flexibility.

My largest load on the main battery bank, aside from the inverter, is the
anchor windlass. This circuit breaker is connected to the battery disconnect
with a buss bar and #2/0 cable for the rest of the run to the windlass
controller. Here again I am a bit concerned with the stress this heavy cable
may be exerting on the breaker terminal. Here again, I notice that the OEMs
of the breaker and the windlass use only 5/16" terminal bolt while
recommending cable as heavy as #2/0. (what would the circular mils be of a
wimpy 5/16" bolt after you dedect the threads??. I believe that is the
reason for my high resistance connection, more-so than a loose connection.)

Steve
s/v Good Intentions

Here again, I notice that the OEMs
of the breaker and the windlass use only 5/16" terminal bolt while
recommending cable as heavy as #2/0. (what would the circular mils be of a
wimpy 5/16" bolt after you deduct the threads??. I believe that is the
reason for my high resistance connection, more-so than a loose connection.)

I wondered about this as well since my Lofrans windlass seems to have rather
small studs on the motor.
Upon thinking about it I decided that a 1 inch long stud that is 5/16 copper
is not going to have much resistance and therefore is not going to generate
any significant heat even if a couple of hundred amps go through it. The
actual connection between the crimp connector and the stud is the more
likely source of high resistance and subsequent heat. A clean and tight
metal to metal connection should carry the current.

"Steve" wrote in message
...

"Glenn Ashmore" wrote in message
news:MYBjc.638$Lm3.598@lakeread04...
What size alternator? I had to run 350MCM locomotive cable to my
Prosine 2000. (10' run total) Talk about wrasslin' an anaconda in the

I only have a 100 amp alternator but haven't completed the installation.
I'm
presently still using the 'silly' 30 amp OEM altenator but I haven't been
using it to charge the main battery bank.

I tried using single #2/0 cable to connect the 2000 watt inverter/charger
to
the main battery buss but it was too stiff and on the recommendation of
the
OEM (Exide) I ended up using #1 gage cable in pairs to the pos./neg. to
gain
flexibility.

My largest load on the main battery bank, aside from the inverter, is the
anchor windlass. This circuit breaker is connected to the battery
disconnect
with a buss bar and #2/0 cable for the rest of the run to the windlass
controller. Here again I am a bit concerned with the stress this heavy
cable
may be exerting on the breaker terminal. Here again, I notice that the
OEMs
of the breaker and the windlass use only 5/16" terminal bolt while
recommending cable as heavy as #2/0. (what would the circular mils be of a
wimpy 5/16" bolt after you dedect the threads??. I believe that is the
reason for my high resistance connection, more-so than a loose
connection.)

Steve
s/v Good Intentions