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#1
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Any problem having a single external GPS antenna, like Garmin's GA 29 pole
mount model, connected to two GPS receivers via a simple Y-type connector? If one GPS is disconnected, any problem leaving one open connection on the Y while using the other GPS? Thanks, Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
#2
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Do not do it. They both output a voltage (i belive 5VDC).
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#3
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Len Krauss wrote:
Any problem having a single external GPS antenna, like Garmin's GA 29 pole mount model, connected to two GPS receivers via a simple Y-type connector? If one GPS is disconnected, any problem leaving one open connection on the Y while using the other GPS? Thanks, Len Seriously *BAD* idea. Each GPS provides power to the Antenna. Typically 5 V dc but may be 3.3 V for some of the newer models. Connect two GPSes supplying power at the same time and there is a risk that one will blow its input circuit. With some mixtures of GPS models, it isnt a risk, its a certainty. There is however a way of doing what you want, but NOT with a standard Y or T connector. There is a purpose designed product for a similar function with Satellite TV recivers to connect two to one LNB. It is a passive splitter with blocking diodes for DC power pass. It prevents power from one receiver port reaching the other one while letting either power the LNB and splitting the signal from the LNB to both receivers. Not commonly used as a multi output LNB is tecnically superior, but any decent satellite shop should be able to get you one. N.B. they are only officially rated to 2 GHz and GPS works at 2.4 GHz but they WILL work in your application. Only fly in the ointment is they use 'F' type connectors so you may need some adaptors as well. Also the insertion loss is ~~4 dB so use low loss cable and keep runs short or you may need an inline amplifier (bit specialist as the Sattelite ones expect 12V on the line, A good radio HAM or savvy tech could open one up and convert it to seperate power feed if you had to.) Its a general rule of thumb that all stubs longer than wavelength/10 MUST be correctly terminated with a terminator matched to the cable impedance to prevent trouble from reflected signal. The wavelength in free space at GPS frequencies is 12.4 cm, that in the cable will be less depending on the velocity factor of the cable. This means that you CANNOT disconnect the cable at the GPS end without connecting a terminator to replace the GPS or you will interfere with the other GPS. If that seems too complicated, then if you NEVER need to run both GPSes at the same time, (e.g. you take your expensive plotter below in rough weather) there is a simple low cost workaround. You need to have an exrension cable from the GPS mounting at the chart table up to the mount on deck. Just disconnect the cable from the GPS below and connect it to the end of the extension, take the GPS up top aand hook it up. Power and data cables to the two positions can connect in parallel. You *MUST* have some way of keeping the ends of the outside cables DRY when they are not being used. One approach is to take them through watertight glands into a small tupperware box. Pop the lid off and uncoil the cables to use them and coil them back into the box and pop the lid on when you disconnect. There may be no other way that will work for some makes of power/data cable. If however I could get a locking waterproof bulkhead connector that is for mixed signal use, (i.e. has coax contacts for RF and ordinary contacts for power and data) I'd use that, cap it off and take the GPS and its short hookup leads below together. -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must. 'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Uffa Fox designed, All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy circa. 1961 |
#4
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Put it out of your mind and mount both antennas. GPS receivers
usually have the microwave part of the receiver up inside the radome under the antenna because it's more sensitive that way. Very few of them are compatible, as usual with proprietary marine crap. What comes down the cable is IF (intermediate frequency RF) with DC power going up to the electronics in the dome. Don't plug A's antenna into B's receiver or you may blow it! On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 13:04:42 -0500, "Len Krauss" wrote: Any problem having a single external GPS antenna, like Garmin's GA 29 pole mount model, connected to two GPS receivers via a simple Y-type connector? If one GPS is disconnected, any problem leaving one open connection on the Y while using the other GPS? Thanks, Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. |
#5
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Thanks for the full explanation Ian -- very helpful!
Len -- Eliminate "ns" for email address. "Ian Malcolm" wrote in message ... Len Krauss wrote: Any problem having a single external GPS antenna, like Garmin's GA 29 pole mount model, connected to two GPS receivers via a simple Y-type connector? If one GPS is disconnected, any problem leaving one open connection on the Y while using the other GPS? Thanks, Len Seriously *BAD* idea. Each GPS provides power to the Antenna. Typically 5 V dc but may be 3.3 V for some of the newer models. Connect two GPSes supplying power at the same time and there is a risk that one will blow its input circuit. With some mixtures of GPS models, it isnt a risk, its a certainty. There is however a way of doing what you want, but NOT with a standard Y or T connector. There is a purpose designed product for a similar function with Satellite TV recivers to connect two to one LNB. It is a passive splitter with blocking diodes for DC power pass. It prevents power from one receiver port reaching the other one while letting either power the LNB and splitting the signal from the LNB to both receivers. Not commonly used as a multi output LNB is tecnically superior, but any decent satellite shop should be able to get you one. N.B. they are only officially rated to 2 GHz and GPS works at 2.4 GHz but they WILL work in your application. Only fly in the ointment is they use 'F' type connectors so you may need some adaptors as well. Also the insertion loss is ~~4 dB so use low loss cable and keep runs short or you may need an inline amplifier (bit specialist as the Sattelite ones expect 12V on the line, A good radio HAM or savvy tech could open one up and convert it to seperate power feed if you had to.) Its a general rule of thumb that all stubs longer than wavelength/10 MUST be correctly terminated with a terminator matched to the cable impedance to prevent trouble from reflected signal. The wavelength in free space at GPS frequencies is 12.4 cm, that in the cable will be less depending on the velocity factor of the cable. This means that you CANNOT disconnect the cable at the GPS end without connecting a terminator to replace the GPS or you will interfere with the other GPS. If that seems too complicated, then if you NEVER need to run both GPSes at the same time, (e.g. you take your expensive plotter below in rough weather) there is a simple low cost workaround. You need to have an exrension cable from the GPS mounting at the chart table up to the mount on deck. Just disconnect the cable from the GPS below and connect it to the end of the extension, take the GPS up top aand hook it up. Power and data cables to the two positions can connect in parallel. You *MUST* have some way of keeping the ends of the outside cables DRY when they are not being used. One approach is to take them through watertight glands into a small tupperware box. Pop the lid off and uncoil the cables to use them and coil them back into the box and pop the lid on when you disconnect. There may be no other way that will work for some makes of power/data cable. If however I could get a locking waterproof bulkhead connector that is for mixed signal use, (i.e. has coax contacts for RF and ordinary contacts for power and data) I'd use that, cap it off and take the GPS and its short hookup leads below together. -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must. 'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Uffa Fox designed, All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy circa. 1961 |
#6
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In article ,
Ian Malcolm wrote: N.B. they are only officially rated to 2 GHz and GPS works at 2.4 GHz but they WILL work in your application. Bzzzzt, Nice try, Would you like to try again, for what's behind Cutain No.3? GPS does NOT run and 2.4Ghz, it uses the 1500 Mhz band for all the datastreams, Commercial and Miltary. Bruce in alaska -- add a 2 before @ |
#7
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Len Krauss wrote:
Thanks for the full explanation Ian -- very helpful! Len Len, Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I was more than a little busy with yacht club duties. I made a NUMERICAL error (as you may have noticed Bruce in Alaska pointing out to me). The great thing about USENet is that if one does goof, someone will usually point out ones slip-up. This, in general, is NOT true of the WWW as, for each site, the author usually controls the medium. My reply to him was more than a little technical and I hope it doesen't cause you any confusion. The relevent part for you is the CORRECT frequency is approx 1575 Mhz (1.575b GHz). This gives a wavelength of 18.9 cm in free space. This is a *little* more forgiving than the higher frequency and I wouldnt worry about terminating unused outputs on the splitter that DO NOT have any cable or adaptor conected at all! (as the F socket is shorter than 2 cm) Also the splitter is being used WITHIN its specified bandwidth, so it should perform to specification. The rest of my advice and explanation stands as written. Larry W4WSC has some very good points. There IS a risk of damage connecting the wrong antenna to a GPS. The antenna may be 3.3V only and the GPS outputs 5V or the antenna may require more current than the GPS is able to supply without damage. I have the facilities to test an antenna to see if it will be compatible BEFORE connecting it. I doubt you are able to do so. His advice to install two antennae for two recivers also has the advantage of redundancy which could be further improved by running them off seperate batteries. I am probably preaching to the choir, but as long as GPS has a millitary application, it must not be your SOLE means of navigation. To summerise, I belive your PRIMARY GPS should be wired direct to a dedicated antenna especially if its your main meens of navigation, but you may choose to use a single antenna for multiple backup or auxillary GPSes as I originally described. -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must. 'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Uffa Fox designed, All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy circa. 1961 |
#8
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Bruce in Alaska wrote:
In article , Ian Malcolm wrote: N.B. they are only officially rated to 2 GHz and GPS works at 2.4 GHz but they WILL work in your application. Bzzzzt, Nice try, Would you like to try again, for what's behind Cutain No.3? GPS does NOT run and 2.4Ghz, it uses the 1500 Mhz band for all the datastreams, Commercial and Miltary. Bruce in alaska Thank you for the correction, I was of course mistaken when I thought it was 2.4 GHz. Where I got that number from, I don't know! It isn't what you know you don't know that catches you out, but what you think you know but don't. I was inspired to dig out my copy of the ADMIRALTY LIST OF RADIO SIGNALS SATELLITE NAVIGATION SYSTEMS NP288 VOL 8 (2001/2002) for an authoritative reference. Ahh, Bzzzzt yourself, It does *NOT* use the 1500 Mhz band for *all* data steams! (Not even if you take the 1500 Mhz band to be 1400 to 1599.9.... Mhz. The above reference says L band, nominally between 1 and 2 GHz) I freely admit you are MUCH MUCH closer to the correct frequencies than I was though. I see from other threads that you have a STRONG professional background in marine electronics, while my proffesional background in electronics is NOT in the marine field. Perhaps you were oversimplifying for the end user . . . Now for the prize behind curtain No.3, here is the fourth paragraph from page 11 of NP288 VOL 8 (2001/2002). "Each satellite transmits data on two frequencies in the L-band; L1 = 1575.42 Mhz and L2 = 1227.60 MHz. Both frequencies are integer multiples of the basic 10.23 MHz clock frequency. Dual-channel receivers will be able to use two frequencies to correct for the effects of ionospheric refraction. Data transmitted on the L1 and L2 frequencies is encoded by a Pseudo Random Noise (PRN) modulation. The L5 frequency will be 1176.45 MHz." To summerize: Freq/MHz Modulation codes Use & Status (as of 25 Jan 2001) L1 1575.42 C/A ,P,M civil & military L2 1227.60 P, M? military * L5 1176.45 ? civil to be introduced from 2005 * Precise Positioning Service (PPS) is derived from the P code and has specialist civil applications. L2 will also carry the second civil C/A signal in the future. Now then, what's the procedure for claiming the prize from behind curtain No.3? If I have to sit through a timeshare presentation first, or flights, batteries or whatever are not included, I decline it and would prefer you to give it to charity :-) Seriously, thanks for the heads up on my error, I am fortunate that it was an error of fact not of principle and did not significantly affect the validity of my argument and advice. Whats the weather like with you at the moment and how long is your boating season? We are very much out of season here, with the London Boat Show in progress, though some hardy souls including a few members of my Dinghy club are still racing. Its raining, Its windy and its fairly cold. -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk [at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* SPAM TRAP set in header, Use email address in sig. if you must. 'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Uffa Fox designed, All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy circa. 1961 |
#9
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In article ,
Ian Malcolm wrote: Now then, what's the procedure for claiming the prize from behind curtain No.3? If I have to sit through a timeshare presentation first, or flights, batteries or whatever are not included, I decline it and would prefer you to give it to charity :-) Seriously, thanks for the heads up on my error, I am fortunate that it was an error of fact not of principle and did not significantly affect the validity of my argument and advice. Whats the weather like with you at the moment and how long is your boating season? We are very much out of season here, with the London Boat Show in progress, though some hardy souls including a few members of my Dinghy club are still racing. Its raining, Its windy and its fairly cold. -- Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED) Well Ian, the prize isn't really worth all that much for Curtain No. 3 this time. "Free cup of alaskan brewed coffee at the Trading Post's Pickle Barrel Stove checker table." (www.99850.net) We have a few folks steaming about around here but mostly they are waiting for Tanner Crab Season to open in about three weeks. Season usually lasts about 10 days, but I get a "Healthy Crab (King Crab) Tax" for letting some of the guys stage their pots on the Cannery Dock, prior to Season Openings. Now that makes for good eating, when the crab are fresh out of the seawater, and hot out of the steamcooker. Not a big error, just a friendly correction, and your absolutly right that it didn't effect the comments you made in any practical way. If you ever get over here to alaska, on Holiday or whatever and happen to stop by, the coffe will be waiting, and maybe a 5# baggie of Frozen Crab, if thewre is any left after my brother stops by. -- Bruce (semiretired powderman & exFCC Field Inspector for Southeastern Alaska) add a 2 before @ Bruce Gordon * Debora Gordon R.N. Bruce's Trading Post P.O. Box EXI Excursion Inlet South Juneau, Alaska 99850 Excursion Inlet, Alaska 99850 www.btpost.net www.99850.net |
#10
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Len,
If you really want to try this then I think you could minimize the risk by using satellite distribution components. Connect the antenna to it's correct receiver. Spilt the signal with and appropriate Diplexer (sat. jargon for splitter). Block the DC from the second receiver with a blocking diode. There is still a risk that the signal strength of the ant. is too high as to damage the input of the second receiver but I believe this to be minimal. All of this would be done ideally under the supervision of someone who know electronics. After saying all that. I believe Larry's advice to use two antennas is the best cause you then have two entirely redundant systems. Regards, Ron I don't recieve e-mail at this address because of spam. E-mail me at crtsrATmsnDOTcom. |
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