I believe the zap-stop is to remove spikes on the excitation input to
the alternator by shunting them to ground. The fuse is there in case
the diode shorts in which case you would otherwise have +12 connected
to ground..

On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 10:32:15 -0700, "Steve" wrote:

Several of you have suggested the Zap-Stop to shunt the alternator output
to ground, if the battery is disconnected or the inline fuse were to blow..

Sounded like a workable solution until I read the discription in their ad.
"ZAP-STOP, along with the integral 20 amp slow-blow fuse,...." .

My alternator is capable of 100 amp and the AUTOMAC II is going to be
regulating the output up to that rating. If I have a 100 amp fuse in the
line between the alternator output terminal and the battery disconnect
switch and that fuse blows, then the 20 amp fuse in the Zap-Stop is also
going to blow. This would then render the Zap-Stop useless.

What am I missing here??

Steve
s/v Good Intentions


Bill in Seattle