On Thu, 06 Nov 2008 07:59:46 GMT, Jere Lull wrote:

On 2008-11-06 00:06:59 -0500, Wayne.B said:

Method 1 is scary but probably yields the best long term out come.
Some people have reported success making a thin cut around the
perimeter of the repair using something like a Fein Multimaster to
make the cut; lifting off the outer skin intact; and then replacing it
at the end, leaving only the cut line to be patched up cosmetically.
One difficulty is predetermining the extent of the core damage.

I did this with Xan's port deck a dozen years ago. Still haven't gotten
to the starboard side. It was really a fairly easy job with our big
flat deck. Might have taken 3 weekends to do the bulk of the work, and
most of that was thinking or waiting.

Surveyor said the delamination wasn't a problem if we didn't see stress
cracks. Still none, so I put up with a bit of spring in my step on that
side.

Tip: A real nice way to chip core out of the corners is to fit router
bits to a 6-12" drill extension with a ball bearing collar between the
bits and extender. Lets you rest against the surface you want to NOT
chip yet get pretty deep -- pretty much the length of the whole
assembly.

There is a chapter in the Casey (Sp ?) book about removing the outer
skin in one piece and replacing it.

I attempted to do this on a side deck next to the cockpit. Problem...
Boat built with inch dimension plywood core and only metric available
here. But other then that it would have been a fairly simple process.

Do remember that the joint where skin cut was made needs to be ground
back on a taper and a full thickness tapped joint made here.

Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

Wayne.B wrote in
:

On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:00:02 -0600, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

It's fairly obvious that the coring is soaked. How do I go about
drying this out before sealing the leak and replacing porthole?

It's a tough repair which has been discussed on "rec.boats.building"
from time to time in the past. You might be able to find some of the
old threads by searching Goole Groups.

Basically the core is damaged beyond repair where it has gotten wet.
As others have said there are three basic methods:

1. Remove the top skin, replace/relaminate the core, replace the top
skin.

2. Remove the bottom skin, repeat as above.

3. Drill a series of holes, dry with heat and/or a vacuum pump, fill
holes with thickened epoxy, perform cosmetic fix on drill holes.

Method 2 requires working from below which is difficult but may be
easier cosmetically if the repair can be covered by the head liner.

Method 3 is relatively quick and easy but long term integreity is
suspect and the holes can be difficult to cover. The extent of core
damage can be determined by examining the drilling residue.

Method 1 is scary but probably yields the best long term out come.
Some people have reported success making a thin cut around the
perimeter of the repair using something like a Fein Multimaster to
make the cut; lifting off the outer skin intact; and then replacing it
at the end, leaving only the cut line to be patched up cosmetically.
One difficulty is predetermining the extent of the core damage.

Everyone, thanks for the input. Unfortunately I realized early on that
this was going to be a miserable job.

The good news is that it appears that the wet core is limited to an area
of about 1 sq ft. I'm going to drill some more exploritory holes this
weekend.

I placed a photo of the area on my web site. Note that it shows the
boat with the headliner removed, but that's a separate question. The
photo is at http://www.geoffschultz.org/temp/20081031_155154.jpg

I'm thinking of going with method 2 due to small size of the effected
area and accessability.


-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
.. .

Everyone, thanks for the input. Unfortunately I realized early on that
this was going to be a miserable job.

The good news is that it appears that the wet core is limited to an area
of about 1 sq ft. I'm going to drill some more exploritory holes this
weekend.

I placed a photo of the area on my web site. Note that it shows the
boat with the headliner removed, but that's a separate question. The
photo is at http://www.geoffschultz.org/temp/20081031_155154.jpg

I'm thinking of going with method 2 due to small size of the effected
area and accessability.


-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?
You can then get all the rotten core out and replace it, and then the repair
will finally be hidden under your replaced headlining.
If you cut out a rectangular section with a precision tool to get at the
core, as someone else has suggested, it will be a simple matter to fix it
back even though you will be working overhead.
I did not really agree with the original suggestion that Method 1 is
necessarily _expensive_. Seems fairly simple compared with some of the other
methods suggested and has the great advantage that you know you have got all
the rotten stuff out and replaced it. No messing about wondering whether you
have got it all out and/or dried it all out.

On 2008-11-06 10:27:31 -0500, "Edgar" said:

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?

Watch that. Not only is working up underneath wet fiberglass an
invitation to a nasty clean-up job, but I found that our "underside" is
thicker than the outer skin. Had I disturbed that, I'd have had a
really big job on my hands.

--
Jere Lull
Xan-à-Deux -- Tanzer 28 #4 out of Tolchester, MD
Xan's pages: http://web.mac.com/jerelull/iWeb/Xan/
Our BVI trips & tips: http://homepage.mac.com/jerelull/BVI/

Jere Lull wrote:

On 2008-11-06 10:27:31 -0500, "Edgar" said:

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the
Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?


Watch that. Not only is working up underneath wet fiberglass an
invitation to a nasty clean-up job, but I found that our "underside" is
thicker than the outer skin. Had I disturbed that, I'd have had a really
big job on my hands.


Totall agreement with you on that one, Jere.

I've done one small (stantion area) repair from under.

That's the only time in years of working with resin that I actually
had resin in my hair!

Yech...

--

Richard

(remove the X to email)

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 16:27:31 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:


"Geoff Schultz" wrote in message
. ..

Everyone, thanks for the input. Unfortunately I realized early on that
this was going to be a miserable job.

The good news is that it appears that the wet core is limited to an area
of about 1 sq ft. I'm going to drill some more exploritory holes this
weekend.

I placed a photo of the area on my web site. Note that it shows the
boat with the headliner removed, but that's a separate question. The
photo is at http://www.geoffschultz.org/temp/20081031_155154.jpg

I'm thinking of going with method 2 due to small size of the effected
area and accessability.


-- Geoff
www.GeoffSchultz.org

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?
You can then get all the rotten core out and replace it, and then the repair
will finally be hidden under your replaced headlining.
If you cut out a rectangular section with a precision tool to get at the
core, as someone else has suggested, it will be a simple matter to fix it
back even though you will be working overhead.
I did not really agree with the original suggestion that Method 1 is
necessarily _expensive_. Seems fairly simple compared with some of the other
methods suggested and has the great advantage that you know you have got all
the rotten stuff out and replaced it. No messing about wondering whether you
have got it all out and/or dried it all out.



Go down to your local yard and ask them how much it is going to cost?

I'm so conditioned to my neighbor boats paying someone to change their
oil I automatically assume that all the other boaters are going to
contract their work out :-)
Bruce-in-Bangkok
(correct Address is bpaige125atgmaildotcom)

On Thu, 6 Nov 2008 16:27:31 +0100, "Edgar"
wrote:

Since you have to take the headliner off anyway, why not go for the Method 1
but cut out the area from underneath the deck rather than on top?

Method 1 from the under side is method 2. :-)

On Nov 6, 5:30*am, Geoff Schultz wrote:
Wayne.B wrote :





On Wed, 05 Nov 2008 17:00:02 -0600, Geoff Schultz
wrote:

It's fairly obvious that the coring is soaked. *How do I go about
drying this out before sealing the leak and replacing porthole?

It's a tough repair which has been discussed on "rec.boats.building"
from time to time in the past. * You might be able to find some of the
old threads by searching Goole Groups.

Basically the core is damaged beyond repair where it has gotten wet.
As others have said there are three basic methods:

1. *Remove the top skin, replace/relaminate the core, replace the top
skin.

2. *Remove the bottom skin, repeat as above.

3. *Drill a series of holes, dry with heat and/or a vacuum pump, fill
holes with thickened epoxy, perform cosmetic fix on drill holes.

Method 2 requires working from below which is difficult but may be
easier cosmetically if the repair can be covered by the head liner.

Method 3 is relatively quick and easy but long term integreity is
suspect and the holes can be difficult to cover. *The extent of core
damage can be determined by examining the drilling residue.

Method 1 is scary but probably yields the best long term out come.
Some people have reported success making a thin cut around the
perimeter of the repair using something like a Fein Multimaster to
make the cut; lifting off the outer skin intact; and then replacing it
at the end, leaving only the cut line to be patched up cosmetically.
One difficulty is predetermining the extent of the core damage.

Everyone, thanks for the input. *Unfortunately I realized early on that
this was going to be a miserable job.

The good news is that it appears that the wet core is limited to an area
of about 1 sq ft. *I'm going to drill some more exploritory holes this
weekend.

I placed a photo of the area on my web site. *Note that it shows the
boat with the headliner removed, but that's a separate question. *The
photo is athttp://www.geoffschultz.org/temp/20081031_155154.jpg

I'm thinking of going with method 2 due to small size of the effected
area and accessability.

-- Geoffwww.GeoffSchultz.org- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I would use method 1 its not all that hard to do and if you come at it
from the cabin you can put a layer of glass on the bottom of the deck
sheathing. sides it fixes it right and you wont have to worry about it
later.

On Nov 5, 3:00*pm, Geoff Schultz wrote:
Towards the end of our last trip we noted that the top of a cabinet had a
water stain on it. *After much lookng I determined that the water was
leaking through the cored cabintop thru a screw hole onto the cabinet. *
Today I pulled out a suspect porthole and found a chip missing from the
epoxy that seals the coring and this was letting water seep in.

It's fairly obvious that the coring is soaked. *How do I go about drying
this out before sealing the leak and replacing porthole?

-- Geoffwww.GeoffSchultz.org


Please provide the following info/specs:

how is the port light oriented? Yes this is vague cause I want you to
reply with maximum information!

measurment of core thickness in mm or inches.
measure ment of fiberglass ouside layer and inside layer.
how is the fiberglass layed?
Do people walk on the TOP of the prtlight? ie, within 2" of cabin
roof (overheard)
what size is the ID measurement of the hole? For example, 15"x17"
etc....

bob

On Nov 5, 3:00*pm, Geoff Schultz wrote:
Towards the end of our last trip we noted that the top of a cabinet had a
water stain on it. *After much lookng I determined that the water was
leaking through the cored cabintop thru a screw hole onto the cabinet. *
Today I pulled out a suspect porthole and found a chip missing from the
epoxy that seals the coring and this was letting water seep in.

It's fairly obvious that the coring is soaked. *How do I go about drying
this out before sealing the leak and replacing porthole?

-- Geoffwww.GeoffSchultz.org

Oh, and on other import piece of information:
What color is the pussy hair of your wife?
Boob