Note to Peggie hall
 

Meindert Sprang wrote:

This same wise plumber also should have told to to stop one quarter turn
before breaking... ;-)

When installing threaded tank fittings, one full turn past hand-tight
plus enough to aim an elbow, no more...even if half the threads are
still showing. Overtightening may not cause the female "collar" to
crack immediately, but changes in temperature etc will do it sooner or
later. The longest I've ever seen it take was 8 months.

And to add to the use of teflon tape: I have regularly used it at pressures
up to 80 psi without any sign of leakage.

As have I. The only times I've ever seen it leak, replacing the male
fitting solved the problem.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327

Note to Peggie hall
 

WaIIy wrote:
As have I. The only times I've ever seen it leak, replacing the male
fitting solved the problem.

Where can you get this done?

Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses..which assumes that you've bought
fittings to do the job. To pressure test the tank after you've connected
all the hoses, fill it full to overflowing with water, then block the
vent and pump the toilet in the dry mode till you feel some real
backpressure (if it's been more than a year since you've replaced the
joker valve in the toilet, do that first). Put a quart of water in the
bowl to act as an "air break," then go away for a couple of hours. If
there's no moisture around the fittings, you're good to go...if there is
any, replacing the leaking fitting will most likely solve the problem.

Almost any yard or boat store sells thread to barb tank fittings...you
can do it yourself. Avoid 1.5" PVC fittings, because for some arcane
reason known only to the plumbing industry, nominal 1.5" thread x 1.5"
barb fittings are actualy 1.5" thread x 1 5/8" barb..which makes it d'd
near impossible to get a hose onto it. Marelon and nylon thread-barb
fittngs are actual 1.5" barbed.

All of the above assumes a plastic tank with threaded ports. If a welded
or caulked fitting in a metal or fiberglass tank is leaking, that's a
repair job.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Note to Peggie hall
 

WaIIy wrote:
As have I. The only times I've ever seen it leak, replacing the male
fitting solved the problem.

Where can you get this done?

Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses..which assumes that you've bought
fittings to do the job. To pressure test the tank after you've connected
all the hoses, fill it full to overflowing with water, then block the
vent and pump the toilet in the dry mode till you feel some real
backpressure (if it's been more than a year since you've replaced the
joker valve in the toilet, do that first). Put a quart of water in the
bowl to act as an "air break," then go away for a couple of hours. If
there's no moisture around the fittings, you're good to go...if there is
any, replacing the leaking fitting will most likely solve the problem.

Almost any yard or boat store sells thread to barb tank fittings...you
can do it yourself. Avoid 1.5" PVC fittings, because for some arcane
reason known only to the plumbing industry, nominal 1.5" thread x 1.5"
barb fittings are actualy 1.5" thread x 1 5/8" barb..which makes it d'd
near impossible to get a hose onto it. Marelon and nylon thread-barb
fittngs are actual 1.5" barbed.

All of the above assumes a plastic tank with threaded ports. If a welded
or caulked fitting in a metal or fiberglass tank is leaking, that's a
repair job.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Note to Peggie hall
 

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 04:46:31 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses.

=================================

Uhhh, I think Wally was hoping for replacement hardware of a different
sort...

Note to Peggie hall
 

On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 04:46:31 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses.

=================================

Uhhh, I think Wally was hoping for replacement hardware of a different
sort...

Note to Peggie hall
 

WaIIy wrote:
I appreciate the lengthy reply, but it was my attempt at humor.

Ooops... I'm usually not that slow! :)

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html

Note to Peggie hall
 

WaIIy wrote:
I appreciate the lengthy reply, but it was my attempt at humor.

Ooops... I'm usually not that slow! :)

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html