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Marc April 23rd 04 02:02 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
Ronco Plastics no longer recommends teflon tape for their tank
connections. During my tank installation, I performed a 1.5psi, 3hr
test and the connections failed. I spoke to Ritch at Ronco and he
conceded that teflon tape is not their choice any more. He recommended
a butyl rubber sealant.

Since my connections were already streched out, I did the following:
1. I shaved the ribs off the spin on fittings and placed a hose clamp
moderately tight around the fitting.

2. Applied marine grade silicone sealant to the male and female
threads

3. Turned down the elbow and at the same time increased slightly the
pressure on the hose clamp.

4. Turned the elbow down hand tight + a quarter turn with full
preassure on the hose clamp.

5. Let sit 24 hrs prior to test

6. Test at 1.5 psi (water coming out the vent at a 4' head is approx.
1.5 psi),24 hrs
7. No leaks

Keith April 23rd 04 03:30 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
NOW they tell me! ;-)

--


Keith
__
Borrow money from pessimists-they don't expect it back.
"Marc" wrote in message
...
Ronco Plastics no longer recommends teflon tape for their tank
connections. During my tank installation, I performed a 1.5psi, 3hr
test and the connections failed. I spoke to Ritch at Ronco and he
conceded that teflon tape is not their choice any more. He recommended
a butyl rubber sealant.

Since my connections were already streched out, I did the following:
1. I shaved the ribs off the spin on fittings and placed a hose clamp
moderately tight around the fitting.

2. Applied marine grade silicone sealant to the male and female
threads

3. Turned down the elbow and at the same time increased slightly the
pressure on the hose clamp.

4. Turned the elbow down hand tight + a quarter turn with full
preassure on the hose clamp.

5. Let sit 24 hrs prior to test

6. Test at 1.5 psi (water coming out the vent at a 4' head is approx.
1.5 psi),24 hrs
7. No leaks




Keith April 23rd 04 03:30 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
NOW they tell me! ;-)

--


Keith
__
Borrow money from pessimists-they don't expect it back.
"Marc" wrote in message
...
Ronco Plastics no longer recommends teflon tape for their tank
connections. During my tank installation, I performed a 1.5psi, 3hr
test and the connections failed. I spoke to Ritch at Ronco and he
conceded that teflon tape is not their choice any more. He recommended
a butyl rubber sealant.

Since my connections were already streched out, I did the following:
1. I shaved the ribs off the spin on fittings and placed a hose clamp
moderately tight around the fitting.

2. Applied marine grade silicone sealant to the male and female
threads

3. Turned down the elbow and at the same time increased slightly the
pressure on the hose clamp.

4. Turned the elbow down hand tight + a quarter turn with full
preassure on the hose clamp.

5. Let sit 24 hrs prior to test

6. Test at 1.5 psi (water coming out the vent at a 4' head is approx.
1.5 psi),24 hrs
7. No leaks




Peggie Hall April 23rd 04 08:15 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
Marc wrote:
Ronco Plastics no longer recommends teflon tape for their tank
connections. During my tank installation, I performed a 1.5psi, 3hr
test and the connections failed. I spoke to Ritch at Ronco and he
conceded that teflon tape is not their choice any more. He recommended
a butyl rubber sealant.


Weeeellll...the "sanitation" hose in their 2000 catalog was corrugated
hose that needed cuffs. So while Ronco builds excellent tanks--not just
for marine and RV use, but many industries--they're not the best source
for advice about marine installation standards....which call for no
sealant, only Teflon tape. I suspect the real problem was an
out-of-round thread-barb male fitting...they're not exactly made to NASA
tolenrances, so it not that not uncommon. But you've done it...so just
inspect at least annually for signs that the sealant is failing and
meanwhile, relax and enjoy your boat.

Btw...standards also call for two hose clamps, with screws on opposite
sides of the hose on all sanitation system connections...to prevent
leaks and as a failsafe. So if you used only one, you have one more
small job to do to finish it...and THEN you can relax and enjoy your
boat. :)

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html


Peggie Hall April 23rd 04 08:15 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
Marc wrote:
Ronco Plastics no longer recommends teflon tape for their tank
connections. During my tank installation, I performed a 1.5psi, 3hr
test and the connections failed. I spoke to Ritch at Ronco and he
conceded that teflon tape is not their choice any more. He recommended
a butyl rubber sealant.


Weeeellll...the "sanitation" hose in their 2000 catalog was corrugated
hose that needed cuffs. So while Ronco builds excellent tanks--not just
for marine and RV use, but many industries--they're not the best source
for advice about marine installation standards....which call for no
sealant, only Teflon tape. I suspect the real problem was an
out-of-round thread-barb male fitting...they're not exactly made to NASA
tolenrances, so it not that not uncommon. But you've done it...so just
inspect at least annually for signs that the sealant is failing and
meanwhile, relax and enjoy your boat.

Btw...standards also call for two hose clamps, with screws on opposite
sides of the hose on all sanitation system connections...to prevent
leaks and as a failsafe. So if you used only one, you have one more
small job to do to finish it...and THEN you can relax and enjoy your
boat. :)

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html


Doug Dotson April 24th 04 04:15 AM

Note to Peggie hall
 
Hummmm! I've always used teflon tape and never had
a failure. Must be the luck of the draw :)

Doug
s/v Callista

"Marc" wrote in message
...
Ronco Plastics no longer recommends teflon tape for their tank
connections. During my tank installation, I performed a 1.5psi, 3hr
test and the connections failed. I spoke to Ritch at Ronco and he
conceded that teflon tape is not their choice any more. He recommended
a butyl rubber sealant.

Since my connections were already streched out, I did the following:
1. I shaved the ribs off the spin on fittings and placed a hose clamp
moderately tight around the fitting.

2. Applied marine grade silicone sealant to the male and female
threads

3. Turned down the elbow and at the same time increased slightly the
pressure on the hose clamp.

4. Turned the elbow down hand tight + a quarter turn with full
preassure on the hose clamp.

5. Let sit 24 hrs prior to test

6. Test at 1.5 psi (water coming out the vent at a 4' head is approx.
1.5 psi),24 hrs
7. No leaks




Doug Dotson April 24th 04 04:15 AM

Note to Peggie hall
 
Hummmm! I've always used teflon tape and never had
a failure. Must be the luck of the draw :)

Doug
s/v Callista

"Marc" wrote in message
...
Ronco Plastics no longer recommends teflon tape for their tank
connections. During my tank installation, I performed a 1.5psi, 3hr
test and the connections failed. I spoke to Ritch at Ronco and he
conceded that teflon tape is not their choice any more. He recommended
a butyl rubber sealant.

Since my connections were already streched out, I did the following:
1. I shaved the ribs off the spin on fittings and placed a hose clamp
moderately tight around the fitting.

2. Applied marine grade silicone sealant to the male and female
threads

3. Turned down the elbow and at the same time increased slightly the
pressure on the hose clamp.

4. Turned the elbow down hand tight + a quarter turn with full
preassure on the hose clamp.

5. Let sit 24 hrs prior to test

6. Test at 1.5 psi (water coming out the vent at a 4' head is approx.
1.5 psi),24 hrs
7. No leaks




Meindert Sprang April 24th 04 07:25 AM

Note to Peggie hall
 
"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
A wise old industrial plumber gave me that particular advice.


This same wise plumber also should have told to to stop one quarter turn
before breaking... ;-)

And to add to the use of teflon tape: I have regularly used it at pressures
up to 80 psi without any sign of leakage.

Meindert



Meindert Sprang April 24th 04 07:25 AM

Note to Peggie hall
 
"WaIIy" wrote in message
...
A wise old industrial plumber gave me that particular advice.


This same wise plumber also should have told to to stop one quarter turn
before breaking... ;-)

And to add to the use of teflon tape: I have regularly used it at pressures
up to 80 psi without any sign of leakage.

Meindert



Peggie Hall April 24th 04 05:16 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
Meindert Sprang wrote:

This same wise plumber also should have told to to stop one quarter turn
before breaking... ;-)


When installing threaded tank fittings, one full turn past hand-tight
plus enough to aim an elbow, no more...even if half the threads are
still showing. Overtightening may not cause the female "collar" to
crack immediately, but changes in temperature etc will do it sooner or
later. The longest I've ever seen it take was 8 months.

And to add to the use of teflon tape: I have regularly used it at pressures
up to 80 psi without any sign of leakage.


As have I. The only times I've ever seen it leak, replacing the male
fitting solved the problem.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327


Peggie Hall April 24th 04 05:16 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
Meindert Sprang wrote:

This same wise plumber also should have told to to stop one quarter turn
before breaking... ;-)


When installing threaded tank fittings, one full turn past hand-tight
plus enough to aim an elbow, no more...even if half the threads are
still showing. Overtightening may not cause the female "collar" to
crack immediately, but changes in temperature etc will do it sooner or
later. The longest I've ever seen it take was 8 months.

And to add to the use of teflon tape: I have regularly used it at pressures
up to 80 psi without any sign of leakage.


As have I. The only times I've ever seen it leak, replacing the male
fitting solved the problem.

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html
http://shop.sailboatowners.com/detai...=400&group=327


Peggie Hall April 25th 04 05:46 AM

Note to Peggie hall
 
WaIIy wrote:
As have I. The only times I've ever seen it leak, replacing the male
fitting solved the problem.


Where can you get this done?


Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses..which assumes that you've bought
fittings to do the job. To pressure test the tank after you've connected
all the hoses, fill it full to overflowing with water, then block the
vent and pump the toilet in the dry mode till you feel some real
backpressure (if it's been more than a year since you've replaced the
joker valve in the toilet, do that first). Put a quart of water in the
bowl to act as an "air break," then go away for a couple of hours. If
there's no moisture around the fittings, you're good to go...if there is
any, replacing the leaking fitting will most likely solve the problem.

Almost any yard or boat store sells thread to barb tank fittings...you
can do it yourself. Avoid 1.5" PVC fittings, because for some arcane
reason known only to the plumbing industry, nominal 1.5" thread x 1.5"
barb fittings are actualy 1.5" thread x 1 5/8" barb..which makes it d'd
near impossible to get a hose onto it. Marelon and nylon thread-barb
fittngs are actual 1.5" barbed.

All of the above assumes a plastic tank with threaded ports. If a welded
or caulked fitting in a metal or fiberglass tank is leaking, that's a
repair job.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html


Peggie Hall April 25th 04 05:46 AM

Note to Peggie hall
 
WaIIy wrote:
As have I. The only times I've ever seen it leak, replacing the male
fitting solved the problem.


Where can you get this done?


Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses..which assumes that you've bought
fittings to do the job. To pressure test the tank after you've connected
all the hoses, fill it full to overflowing with water, then block the
vent and pump the toilet in the dry mode till you feel some real
backpressure (if it's been more than a year since you've replaced the
joker valve in the toilet, do that first). Put a quart of water in the
bowl to act as an "air break," then go away for a couple of hours. If
there's no moisture around the fittings, you're good to go...if there is
any, replacing the leaking fitting will most likely solve the problem.

Almost any yard or boat store sells thread to barb tank fittings...you
can do it yourself. Avoid 1.5" PVC fittings, because for some arcane
reason known only to the plumbing industry, nominal 1.5" thread x 1.5"
barb fittings are actualy 1.5" thread x 1 5/8" barb..which makes it d'd
near impossible to get a hose onto it. Marelon and nylon thread-barb
fittngs are actual 1.5" barbed.

All of the above assumes a plastic tank with threaded ports. If a welded
or caulked fitting in a metal or fiberglass tank is leaking, that's a
repair job.
--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html


Wayne.B April 25th 04 01:58 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 04:46:31 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses.


=================================

Uhhh, I think Wally was hoping for replacement hardware of a different
sort...


Wayne.B April 25th 04 01:58 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
On Sun, 25 Apr 2004 04:46:31 GMT, Peggie Hall
wrote:

Get it done? This something that's most likely to show up immediately
while replacing a tank and/or hoses.


=================================

Uhhh, I think Wally was hoping for replacement hardware of a different
sort...


Peggie Hall April 25th 04 04:53 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
WaIIy wrote:
I appreciate the lengthy reply, but it was my attempt at humor.


Ooops... I'm usually not that slow! :)

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html


Peggie Hall April 25th 04 04:53 PM

Note to Peggie hall
 
WaIIy wrote:
I appreciate the lengthy reply, but it was my attempt at humor.


Ooops... I'm usually not that slow! :)

--
Peggie
----------
Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987
Author "Get Rid of Boat Odors - A Guide To Marine Sanitation Systems and
Other Sources of Aggravation and Odor"
http://www.seaworthy.com/html/get_ri...oat_odors.html



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